[Closed] Wheel builders, critique these wheel tensions please?

Assuming the gauge is correct (and that's a big 'if' if it's not been calibrated in a while), then 23 is about the max you want to go with a 1.8 / 2.0 butted spoke assuming there is nothing unusual about the rim. If I was building that wheel from scratch I wouldn't be happy with those figures! But maybe the rim is bent. Depends on how dished the front wheel is, but if it was normal rear wheel then that gauge tends to read very roughly around 5 less on the low tensioned side. Hard to tell from a computer screen but even assuming the front wheel isn't as dished as the rear, some of those readings still seem really low. Also I'm assuming no air in the tires as inflated tires lower the spoke tensions either a little or a lot depending on rim material and design.

Hi and thanks for the reply.

From what your saying there are 2 extremes going on her?

Ie. 23 is on the upper end of the tension but the non rotor side seems too low a tension perhaps?

All based on the accuracy of the parktool that said. Though, even with any inaccuracy the ratio of difference between left to right tension should be a valid indication?

That's if I am thinking straight about this? Lol

Oh! Forgot to say, the above readings were taken with no tyre on the rim. Just rim tape, no more.

Wheel is also pretty straight, very straight actually. The merest hint of a wobble at a push and I am picky about that sort of thing.

Spoke tensions though are a new learning curve for me. Ideally I'd take the wheel to a lbs but frankly I don't trust the couple I have best me. It gives me no pleasure to say that either. 😞

Your average spoke tension seems okay right now, but will drop a little when you add a tyre and working pressure. However, the range of spoke tensions would be too wide for my liking.

I would expect some of those spokes on the low tenstion side to come loose as they dint seem to be contributing much to the wheel.

Yes, the average on the disc side seems pretty good but maybe check the dish of the wheel if you have means to do that as I still think the right side is on the low side, but maybe that's just the way it is. Ideally though you want less of a gap between high and low tensions on either side. If you have the time and can be bothered, you could use the tension meter to set all the spokes to between 22-23 on the left and whatever is needed on the right to get a correctly dished wheel and then see what shape the wheel is in. If it's significantly out of true then the rim is probably bent and then you'll just have to get the wheel as true as possible while still trying to have good tension on all spokes. Also look at the tension of the spokes next to each other i.e. spoke 5 and 6 on the right side. You should be able to release tension in the one and raise tension in the other to achieve the same level of 'trueness'.

Ok,lots to think about there!

Any of you guys live in Kent and I could run over with the wheel...

Or I could even post the wheel and send some beer tokens your way or to a charity of your choosing?

I went to a lbs earlier and had a chat..... They don't even own a spoke tension meter.... 😞

OK, spent a while tweeking with the Parktool and the good old pencil blutacked to fork and flicking the spokes trick....

How about this?  Is the higher tension side too tight?  This is on a front wheel BTW.

EDIT:  I reversed the left/ right in these figures, but you get the idea.....

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I'd say that's pretty good for a used wheel. If spoke 15 and 16 on the right side happen to be paired (the spokes that cross each other) then I'd equalize the tension as spoke 16 is pretty low. But otherwise it's time to ride!

I'm in Squamish BC now so a bit far to post a wheel 😀

Well done. Certainly looking better. If you were curious, you could stop the tolerance down to 10% and see what it looks like then.

Did you record one side clockwise and the other anticlock wise or both the same way? If you do one each way, then the numbers refer to the same spot. For example, both 16s look a little low. You might find some hop there and could add a little tension to both if you did measure in opposite directions.

Thanks walleater, onzadog! Getting there then.Lol

Thanks for all the help!

Did you record one side clockwise and the other anticlock wise or both the same way? If you do one each way, then the numbers refer to the same spot. For example, both 16s look a little low. You might find some hop there and could add a little tension to both if you did measure in opposite directions.

Yep, clockwise and anti clockwise.

Is "hop" a little bump in outward radius? I think that's what you mean? Thanks! 😃

Yes, hop is the rim movement up and down. Also referred to a vertical error.

Great, thanks mate, will see if I can discern any hop at that point. 👍

That said, the wheel should be ok to ride as is now??.... Well.... With a tyre on! Lol

There's only one way to find out.

Can't help but am I now alone in just plucking and listening?

nope I pluck - thjen again i play guitar so may be better at telling the sound

the other thing is an  old used rim with dings and used spokes is never going to read like a brand new just built wheel that has never been ridden Sometimes you need to decide between true and  tension

Well,I think I will check out a couple of the spokes that "stand out" a little.... Then shove the tyre on! Lol

Oh, some of the spokes made a nasty "cracking" noise when I was adjusting them..... Pretty normal for alloy spokes I guess? I need reassurance. Lol

Yeah, they can give a cracking sound as they let go. You'll know if they actually crack though as they just fall to pieces in your hand.

That didn't happen..... So that's good. Lol

Huge thanks again guys, you've been a real help and I've learnt a few things for sure! 😃