Wheel Build Failure...
 

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[Closed] Wheel Build Failure?

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I've got an old road bike that I use purely for my Turbo. Probably about 2 months ago I took it to the LBS, as the rear wheel wasn't running true. The bike is about 20 years old, and some of the spoke nipples were rounded off.

So they said a complete rebuild, rather than just replacing the 5 or 6 rounded spokes.

Just been on my turbo now, and spinning along, and without warning the wheel just stops, the rim stuck hard against the side of the chainstay.

The wheel now has a massive wobble and is unusable.

What I dont understand is that none of the spokes are loose, none are snapped etc, so how can it have gone so far out of true?

I have never had any problems with wheels so I am just a bit surprised..and puzzled.

Can an old Mavic MA2 rim be the issue?

Ta


 
Posted : 22/01/2015 8:52 pm
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Aluminium will fatigue over time wouldn't it?


 
Posted : 22/01/2015 8:58 pm
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I'd guess a spoke has snapped or some spokes are loose.......


 
Posted : 22/01/2015 8:58 pm
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What I dont understand is that none of the spokes are loose, none are snapped etc


 
Posted : 22/01/2015 9:00 pm
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rim fatigue plus light weight mavic MA2 of donkeys age group and probably uneven spoke tension have brought it to its end. time for a new wheel young man


 
Posted : 22/01/2015 9:03 pm
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Static heat build up in fatigued Alu perhaps?


 
Posted : 22/01/2015 9:09 pm
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If it's got a big bend and none of the spokes are loose, this means that some spokes WERE loose when it was straight, or some were over-tight. For l'Eroica use I've just rebuilt an MA2 (not at a shop!) and I used a tension meter to ensure nothing was over tight.


 
Posted : 22/01/2015 9:14 pm
 jonk
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The rim would have cracked inside check it


 
Posted : 22/01/2015 9:22 pm
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If it had a complete re-build would the LBS not pick up on the fact that the rim was "fatigued" or ready to fail?


 
Posted : 22/01/2015 9:24 pm
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See what the shop say, strange one that.....


 
Posted : 22/01/2015 9:26 pm
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If you've not removed it, and thus destroyed the evidence, check if the skewer's fully tight, and it hasn't shifted in the dropouts.I totalled a brand new wheel this way, a combination of small dropouts, cheap skewer, and not as tight as I thought, saw it move under a big effort, and end up exactly as yours has.


 
Posted : 23/01/2015 7:08 am
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I've got to be honest, I reckon rebuilding a 20 year old wheel is throwing money away. Maybe reuse the hub of it's running well, but when a decent rim is only about £20 it's rater foolhardy to not change it IMO


 
Posted : 23/01/2015 7:16 am
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WHen it was rebuilt I said to the LBS would it be better to just use a new rim, and they said not....

I guess they were trying to keep cost down, but I bet now they will want to charge for a new rim and full rebuild 🙁


 
Posted : 23/01/2015 7:59 am
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Ow I thought it wasn't rebuild just trued sorry. I'd take it back to them they should have know better than to rebuild it. Ask if they will replace the rim with a modern at cost with the labour free if it was me that's the least I would.


 
Posted : 23/01/2015 8:07 am
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My money is on......

heat.

If the rim was old, straightish and rebuilt, likely the build was somewhat too tight [assuming greasemonkey more familiar with modern, stronger rims] but held up.

Factor in some heat, alu expands quite a lot = increased tension.

BOOM
[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 23/01/2015 8:13 am

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