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The other day I made a comment on a thread about near misses in traffic. I said someone had pulled out in front of me despite my off road light in blink mode being bright enough for driver to have to put his hand up when I spoke to him at his window.
I was told on the thread I was my own worst enemy, which totally perplexed me.
Another sarcastic comment on the wiggo thread which seems to have a subtext about having a 4000 lumen light which dazzled the driver.
Can someone explain all this to me?
I sometimes wonder if a flashing yellow light would be better - car drivers know at a deep subconscious level that flashing yellow lights mean "watch out".
My understanding.....
If you have a car travelling towards you at night, there are two lights. You can judge the distance/speed of the car by the rate at which the distance between two lights appears to change. The closer the car, the further apart they appear.
If you have one very bright light, there is no way of judging speed and/or distance as it approaches you. It could even be stationary.
This was successfully used as part of the reason [i]against[/i] having daytime headlights for motorcycles.
Maybe cars should leave their headlights on full beam, rather than dipped too 🙄 . Lights that are too bright/dazzling are not suitable for road use. Not sure what you find tricky about that.
double post
It can be very difficult to judge based on a single point of light as druidh says, especially so given the wide variation in cyclist speeds on the road from a couple of Mph to ~20 in some cases and a lot of people don't expect cyclists to be travelling quickly.
The wide variation in brightness of lights doesn't help either, makes it even harder to tell if what is approaching and how far away it is as bright light at a distance is easily equivalent to dimmer light closer, and a very bright light up close is dazzling and makes it even worse, modern car headlights are just as bad.
Your eye instinctively reacts to a bright light by *reducing* the amount of light it lets in by constricting (and often you squint or turn your head too), reducing your visual field and it also acts to reduce sensitivity to other dimmer objects in your field of vision this is NOT helpful when you need to observe what is going on around you.
What you need is to be sufficiently brightly lit up to be noticed and visible, and stand out form your surroundings but without being so bright that it causes other problems, and not directed into the eyes of other road users as that's when problems occur.
I have the same problem as a cyclist in judging other cyclists approach speeds at times.
I think another problem is the need to remind people that when you can't judge it quickly and easily then your default behaviour should be to NOT do anything until you ARE sure of the speed and direction of approach, rather than just assume it's OK and carry on.
Bright = fine
Bright, and shining in drivers eyes = dazzled drivers = Bad.
Offroad lights are floody and designed to light the whole trail.
Road lights are specifically designed not to dazzle oncoming drivers (ever used those beam adjusters for France?)
comment was mine - I stand by it. I commute by car
On a busy urban road there's loads of light sources in drivers' field of view and they quickly sort them into what they're expecting - paired lights = car, and distance between = how close. Single = probably mbike.
Car headlights are bright but have lenses directing all the light downwards when dipped
Bike lights are now potentially much brighter than car lights and totally unfocussed, conical beam shining right into drivers' eyes (you'd be amazed how far down you have to poinbt a light for this not to happen)
Your light unit is smalller than a car/mbike unit which is what they're used to seeing, so assumption until they see otherwise is that you're a far away motorbike on full beam. SInce they can't really look directly at you, they're not going to pick up new information about you very fast.
Add in the flashing and they not only can't comfortably look at you but they lose previous reference points and can't see that you're approaching at all
Wear a very bright reflective top and shine a moderate light or two onto yourself, then you'll instantly look like a person on a bike. WHen I start commuting on a bike that'll be me, no question.
Generally speaking blind drivers are a bad thing.
Especially ones driving towards you.
Stop making excuses for bad driving.
Its always the cyclists fault isn't it.....
[quote=scaredypants ]
Wear a very bright reflective top and shine a moderate light or two onto yourself, then you'll instantly look like a person on a bike. WHen I start commuting on a bike that'll be me, no question.
oooh that's a good idea - i've got a reflective safety vest, might add a small bar light pointing at my chest
and yes, bike lights can be terribly bright, I passed a guy on the canal the other day, my light was pointing down and his light straight ahead, I couldn't see a thing till he went past me
nickjb, can you leave the sarcasm and patronising out please, trying to understand this.
My objective is to make myself safer. To my mind brighter light = better beacuse more likely to be seen. My light is not as bright as a car full beam, but I accept could still be dazzling, same as some newer car headlihgts. I don't accept that my light is bright enough to cause a hazard to other road users.
What I'm not getting here is the suggestion that it's my own fault that a car pulled out in front of me because I had a bright light in blink mode. As amedias said surely if a driver pulls out without first being sure of how far the light source is, then that's his bad, not mine?
Stop making excuses for bad driving.
Its always the cyclists fault isn't it.....
bad driving is not taking the time to make sure you have observed correctly.
bad use of lighting makes it hard for the ones that [i]are [/i]trying to observe properly to do so.
I have the same problem [b]as a cyclist[/b] in judging other cyclists approach speeds at times.
that's his bad, not mine?
Here lies ......
He had right of way
@scaredypants, making more sense now, thanks for taking the time to explain. Read your post after making my last one. Some things I wasn't aware of there.
As amedias said surely if a driver pulls out without first being sure of how far the light source is, then that's his bad, not mine?
Damn right, but there are things you can do to help the ones that are paying attention to notice you and judge better, and it's not always brighter = better.
It's about where the light is, what it illuminates and how visible *you* are. Using just a single very bright light is not the best solution.
And good on you for taking the time to think about it and wanting to try and understand how to make yourself safer.
I don't accept that my light is bright enough to cause a hazard to other road users
problem is, you're not the best person to make that judgement* as you're on the wrong side of the light, unless you've done extensive testing approaching yourself in the opposite direction?
as someone mentioned up there ^ it's often surprising how far you have to dip your lights to not shine them in drivers faces, think about the height of your handle bars and the height of their head when sat in car...
*neither are we as we haven't seen your light or where you point it, just making general comments.
You've made it difficult for the driver judge that distance. If you were dressed as a ninja with no lights would your argument still apply? If you want to make life difficult for other road users then these things are more likely to happenif a driver pulls out without first being sure of how far the light source is, then that's his bad, not mine
I can't really equate these two statements:
my off road light in blink mode being bright enough for driver to have to put his hand up when I spoke to him
I don't accept that my light is bright enough to cause a hazard to other road users
Wear a very bright reflective top and shine a moderate light or two onto yourself, then you'll instantly look like a person on a bike
Best idea I've heard for a long time.
I'm sorry.. But show me a light coming towards me & I have no difficulty differentiating between a motorbike at x times two distance and a push bike at x distance. Next time you are out on the road try it for yourself. They look completely different. Stop excusing stupidity & carelessness.
my off road light in blink mode being bright enough for driver to have to put his hand up when I spoke to him at his window.
I'd suggest this sentence means your light is too bright and/or angled at eye level.
Blink mode doesn't do you any favours either - especially if it is your only front light - very hard to judge distance from a single blinking blinding light source.
Road only accounts for a small part of my commute, thankfully. I use my old Lumicycle Halide (with the commuter glow ring on it for a bit of side visibility).
It's an off-road light and has no dimmer - so it gets pointed at the floor when I want to avoid blinding people. I aim to have it cover roughly the same area as a car headlight. I'll sometimes flick it up at junctions to make sure oncoming traffic clocks me, then flick it back down again.
my off road light in blink mode being bright enough for driver to have to put his hand up when I spoke to him
I was beside the car with the light at his eye level pointing straight into his face, probably 2 meters away. I think the same would probaly happen with a £25 cat-eye at that range.
I don't accept that my light is bright enough to cause a hazard to other road users
While riding around, I've never see any signs of drivers being dazzled; slowing down, swerving, putting their hands to their face while coming the other way, flashing their lights, tooting, although they do dip headlights on unlit roads.
Anyway, some stuff here I wasn't aware of, so will definitely be reviewing my setup.
Have you tried it with a 4000 lumen flashing light that completely blinds you?But show me a light coming towards me....
I have almost taken out a cyclist who had a silly bright flashing light mounted on his helmet. The fact that it was so bright and shining in my eyes meant I couldn't focus on it (& him) plus the height made him look at least 100m farther away that he actually was, ie from my point of view his light was at the same angle as the car waaaayy back down the road.
Luckily I was so busy calling him a c*ck and wondering what type of light it was that I stopped where I was.... someone else may not have.
I ride with a halide light pointing down and to the left so that it's useful for seeing the road, and have a hi vis vest and keep my wheel reflectors on (you know the ones we all take off as soon as we get a bike out of the box)
show me a light coming towards me & I have no difficulty differentiating between a motorbike at x times two distance and a push bike at x distance
Using my light on the off-road path, pointed forward so I can see where I'm going, I've had several different pedestrians say to me they thought I was a motorbike.
One bloke, on a bike, said he thought it was a searchlight coming towards them.
If you have a dedicated commuting bike then also worth looking into tyres like the spesh and michelin ones (im sure others too) with reflective strips on the side, nothing says 'I'm a bike' to an approaching car like two big wheel sized circles reflecting back at you.
keep my wheel reflectors on
Reflective tyre walls here. Very useful for side visibility.
(Conti City Contact Reflex)
my off road light in blink mode
Flashing only = bad
Very bright and flashing = bad
If I wanted to confuse the hell out of someone and disrupt their vision as much as possible, I'd use a very bright strobe light.
I got flashed at countless times when riding around with my lupines. And having been driving when cyclists have come the other way with very bright lights, it is indeed horribly dazzling and dangerous. If you want to be seen, don't force people to look away from you!
While riding around, I've never see any signs of drivers being dazzled, slowing down, swerving, putting their hands to their faceup while coming the other way
I have.
I have.
I didn't realise you were folliwing me 😀
If I wanted to confuse the hell out of someone and disrupt their vision as much as possible, I'd use a very bright strobe light.
Yep - that's exactly what the military/swat do in some situations: tactical strobe, very disorienting.
Watch from 3:30
What I'm not getting here is the suggestion that it's my own fault that a car pulled out in front of me because I had a bright light in blink mode. As amedias said surely if a driver pulls out without first being sure of how far the light source is, then that's his bad, not mine?
Bright light = iritating, subconciously you won't look at it becasue your instinct is to preserve your retinas.
Blinking = nearly impossible to figure out how far away it is, or how fast it's traveling.
Yes you had right or way, but you didn't exaclty make it easy for the driver pulling out. IME several small lights and one main one are far better than one retina burning one, especialy if you have a relativey dim (~200lumen or normal by everyone except serious cyclist standards) helmet light (so as not to blind drivers), combined with a red light on the back of your helemt, gives you more of an outline and makes it easy to judge distances.
It's less about right and wrong, more about making it easy for drivers to make the right decisions then you can both be right rather than one wrong and the other in hospital.
Reflective tyre walls here
Ohh yeah, my Tortec mudguards have reflective strips as well
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tortec-reflector-mudguards-prod15328/
if a driver pulls out without first being sure of how far the light source is, then that's his bad, not mine
The reality being that if you're not careful about how you appear to a driver, then quite often they ARE sure how far away you are.....right up to the point you go over the front of their bonnet
It's less about right and wrong, more about making it easy for drivers to make the right decisions then you can both be right rather than one wrong and the other in hospital.
Yep. Completely agree the driver shouldn't have pulled out on you. And I would never say it was "your fault" - they made the bad call - but you didn't help them make a better call.
Strobing torch marketing:
[url= http://www.taclight.co.uk/olight-torches/m30-triton.html ]disorientating strobe function[/url]
Ok, can anyone suggest any examples of good commuting lights. Part of my commute is on unlit road, and I do a bit of road training on quiet country roads, so I want something that will light my way, as well as something that will make me as safe and visible as possible.
What about the Exposure Flash front light?
absolutely but not much comfort to you when your flying through the air.As amedias said surely if a driver pulls out without first being sure of how far the light source is, then that's his bad, not mine?
It's a weird one, birght dazzling lights are certainly noticeable but there does appear to be a behavioural trait where drivers brains say "I don't know what that is so I'll ignore it" they know 2 lights = traffic so watch out. Blinky or bright single lights don't produce that effect. The argument drivers can't figure out how fast single lights are going is a crap one, if they don't know your speed they should err towards extra caution but it's the subconscious stuff we may need to worry about, like the fighter pilot stuff that was mentioned last week.
Not sure about the dazzling drivers bit, on unlit roads (or towpaths) yes obviously that's a bad thing but on urban streets with plenty of street lights around surely "pinning" a driver who is waiting to pull out of a side street with a few hundred lumens form a helmet mounted spotlight is a good way to get you seen? (and take care not to aim it at oncoming drivers)
FTR on my commuter I have 2 pairs of leds 1 lit constant 1 flasher front and rear and a joystick on my helmet which has a low powered continuous with a flash "pulse". Mudguards have reflective strips and I have a few spoke reflectors. plus hiz viz sam brown belt and ankle bracelets for really dark horrible depth of winter road commutes
?the fighter pilot stuff that was mentioned last week
I have exposure flash/flare lights on my commuter. Whilst it is very practical in terms of space it takes on handlebar, ease of taking on/off, easy to carry spare battery and quick to recharge etc, I'm not sure that the flashing mode on the front one isn't too bright.
The flash on the front sure is wierd: it is always "on" but pulses an extra bright flash at about 90bpm. I'm not sure I really like it but haven't been growled at by any drivers yet in the three months I have been using it. Obviously I point it downwards a bit but the spread is by the design of the light very "round".
-The flash really is so bright that despite the "baseline" light in between flashes, it is a bit disorienting if I am riding alone with no other traffic/headlights behind or in front, on a lit-but-not-fantastically lit road (forder valley road in plymouth in case of my commute, lots of trees obscure streetlights somewhat especially on the cycle path). Even sometimes feels too 'flashy' with another 240l bar light on the other side of the stem to 'balance it out' and give drivers a fixed light source to see as well as a flashing one. Also the flash is a bit of a faff to switch between modes, especially with one hand as the light just rotates in the mount when you rotate the bezel.
I think I might try 'downgrading' to using the exposure light on fixed (150l or thereabouts) and a less bright 1 watt led on flashing.
Theyre then suffering impaired vision afetr you've passed. Not much of favour to the biker 3 seconds behind yousurely "pinning" a driver who is waiting to pull out of a side street with a few hundred lumens form a helmet mounted spotlight is a good way to get you seen? (and take care not to aim it at oncoming drivers)
stoopid double post.
Does your existing light not dim? I just use a DX torch. It's mounted on the bars tight enough to stay put but still movable. When the road is empty I point it up, when a car comes along I just nudge the back and point it down, just like main beam/dipped headlight. You need to drop it quite a lot, though.Ok, can anyone suggest any examples of good commuting lights.
Human eyes cannot accommodate to a light stimulus, so a single point source could be at any distance. Very white and bright lights will also constrict a drivers pupils limiting their scotopic [low light level] vision.
Also to bear in mind is the more elderly driver with early cataracts who may experience alot of light scatter to further disable their vision.
Bottom line is if you want to cycle with very bright lights don't point them into drivers eyes.
Not read the whole thread but if you're running a bright front light you want to be very careful when turning right across the flow of traffic (such as at roundabouts) as drivers will only see the x million lumens searing your eyes and not your hand stuck out to signal. This has happened to me when using a Hope Vision 4 up front. I was positioned in the right hand lane but a driver didn't pick up on this, didn't clock my hand signal and still pulled out on me.
Really bright rear lights (like the Moon Shield or Hope District) could also be a bad idea for this reason. The worst case scenario is that you get mistaken for a motor vehicle and knocked off because the driver was expecting to see an indicator rather than a hand signal.
I use a Vision 4 on my bars and Vision 2 on my helmet, both pointed down and turned low unless the unlit Yorkshire B roads are traffic free, in which case I crank 'em up!
Ok, can anyone suggest any examples of good commuting lights. Part of my commute is on unlit road, and I do a bit of road training on quiet country roads, so I want something that will light my way, as well as something that will make me as safe and visible as possible.What about the Exposure Flash front light?
Whatever you've got, just use it apropriately.
Mine:
MJ-808 (DX Bastid P7), flashing in daylight pointing dead ahead, continuous at night (dipped towards the ground in town, rotate it up on country lanes, jut remember to dim it if there's oncoming trafic)
Smart R2 (2x 0.5w rear light), one on the pannier rack, one cable tied to my helmet.
MJ-818 rear light, on the seatpost so it points at the ground, creates a nice pool of red light.
I'd really like an exposure joystick style light with an exposure red-eye on the back for my helemt to replace the R2, but will probbaly settle for a new bar light and relegate the MJ-808 on dim to helmet light duty.
sorry thought we were discussing personal survival. for road safety as a whole you need to sort out the drivers - they're the ones running people over.Not much of favour to the biker 3 seconds behind you
but ok fair point, as is the strobing stuff, seems obvious once pointed out.
I've got an exposure joystick helmet and lumicycle led3 XPG bar (150 lumen on low), both 2010 model lights.
Keep using those on low settings, angled down and ditch the flash modes?
I like having a flasher though, as I think it says "Bike", so maybe my cateye £30 job flashing on my bar?
Another problem with your all-singing all-dancing 1000-lumen special is that it won't have any side visibility. It's a bit worrying to see lights like the new Lezyne range, where they're sold in the UK as commuting lights but the housing sticks out round the emitter.
Edit: I've just had a look at the 2012 ones and they've added cutouts to the sides which sort this. So apologies to Lezyne (although their Femto Drive lights still have this problem).
Feenster. Driver was defo in the wrong - we should all take the time to make sure there is no margin for error before pulling out. But you asked about lights, so I guess you can expect a response about lights...
Some responses are a little harsh though. The trouble is, there's no clear guidance for cyclists and lighting in this country.
A while back I had a couple of incidents, where a car flashed and tooted me on an unlit road and I can only assume my light was blinding them, yet has nowhere near the power of the kind of lights that are common with MTBers these days. Then not long after, as I was climbing a hill (another unlit road) a car pulled up beside me, wound the window down, and a woman kindly pointed out that my rear light wasn't bright enough. I stopped further up the road to check and I couldn't see for a couple of minutes after, so genuinely wondered if she was taking the piss. Though it was just a cheap light.
Because of that, I trawled through the internet looking to see if there was any kind of guidelines or regulations for cyclists and couldn't find anything at all.
In fact, it puzzles me that most lights are designed to direct a beam, and there is virtually nothing (that I can see, outside of the dynamo market anyway) that creates a nicely bright, but well designed and diffused light to be seen with.
I've learnt a bit about lighting since then, like the stuff in this thread, but I'm still non the wiser about what light to choose when it comes to buying products. The fact is, very few of us know what we look like when we're approaching someone on a dark road in the rain from 100 yards.
When you buy a car, you can assume it's correct as is. You have 3 modes, and you know exactly which to use and when. Imagine if it wasn't like this. If cars didn't come with lights and you had to choose from a huge array of different types. It would be absolute mayhem. Of course, most people would go for the cheapest...little tea lights. Then you'd have boyracers with spotlights everywhere, even pointing out at the sides... It's difficult to blame cyclists in a world where this guidance doesn't exist.
Red on the back. White on the font. That's it.
> the fighter pilot stuff that was mentioned last week?
Worth reading:
http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/smidsy-raf-pilots-view
the fighter pilot stuff that was mentioned last week
Basicly if you look left, look right, pull out. You only actualy check 2 points on the road, your brain interpolates the rest, if the distance in each direction is empty its quite poisible to miss a vehicle much closer.
A real world test is to look in a mirror, then look away without moving your head, then look back, you never see your eyes moving because untill you're looking back at them, if you get a friend to do it as well you can clearly see their eyes moving in a jerky movement, similarly watch someone reading a book, their eyes move in jerks accross the page, if your brain interpreted every image it recieved during the moving phase all you'd ever see is a blur.
Fighter piots are trained to look left, a bit less left, a bit less again, a bit right, a bit more right, right. That way they don't miss anything before an manouver. Drivers aren't taught this.
I noticed that too, plenty of nice looking lights coming out that have zero side on visibilityIt's a bit worrying to see lights like the new Lezyne range, where they're sold in the UK as commuting lights but the housing sticks out round the emitter.
yep, one is operating a very fast very dangerous vehicle that can cause untold damage whereas the other is just nipping to the shops in......oh damn!Fighter piots are trained to..../...Drivers aren't taught this.
Another problem with your all-singing all-dancing 1000-lumen special is that it won't have any side visibility.
That's why I use:
[img] http://www.lumicycle.com/image.aspx?product=GLOW_HALO;Warehouse;Warehouse [/img]
http://www.lumicycle.com/product/146/glow_halo/halogen-glow-ring.html
The fact is, very few of us know what we look like when we're approaching someone on a dark road in the rain from 100 yards.
Prop up your bike and walk 100 yards away. Check front, back and side visibility.
Obviously that doesn't help with any reflectives you wear while on the bike (or any that you accidentally cover while sat there).
For maximum critique, sit on the bike yourself and get your wife to have a look from a distance.
yes even from this distance those bibs look too tight dearFor maximum critique, sit on the bike yourself and get your wife to have a look from a distance.
🙂
surely "pinning" a driver who is waiting to pull out of a side street with a few hundred lumens form a helmet mounted spotlight is a good way to get you seen?
The driver will certainly see you, but the point of reference that you are giving him is 2 feet higher than he's expecting. Therefore you look a lot farther away than you actually are. Which could be considered a bad thing
Pal I go out with has some fetish for dazzling oncoming cars.. has his hope vision 4 on max and points them straight into the eyes of oncoming cars.. Loads of times we've had cars have to slow/stop or put their high beam on. Drives the rest of us mad but he wont do anything about it. Small man syndrome at a guess.
I trawled through the internet looking to see if there was any kind of guidelines or regulations for cyclists and couldn't find anything at all.
The law is there, but as usual it's an ass.
You need a front lamp. It should be on the centre-line or off side of the vehicle and aligned to and visible from the front. It should be not more than 1500 mm above the ground. It should be white (or yellow if it is incorporated in a headlamp which is capable of emitting only a yellow light). It should be marked with a British Standard Mark namely BS 6102/3 (or its equivalent).You need a rear lamp which should also be on the centre-line or off side of the vehicle aligned to and visible from the rear. It should also be not more than 1500 mm and not less than 350mm above the ground. It should have an angle of visibility 80O to the left and to the right and it should be red. It should be marked either with the British Standards Institution 3648:1963 or “BS 6102/3”.
You also need a rear reflector complying with the appropriate British Standard Mark between 350mm and 900 mm from the ground. New bikes will invariably be fitted with one: you wouldn’t take it off but it is unlikely to be your main line of defence.
Finally, you need two amber reflectors on each pedal complying with BS6102/2. Once again, you would not necessarily remove these from your pedal. They appear to be the least visible or useful of all lighting devices but if one breaks, as they invariably do, given their position, you should replace it in order to remain within the law.
In addition to the illegality of flashing lights, there are a number of other relevant restrictions:
There is a prohibition on lights which move. So you cannot attach a light (other than a reflector) to pedals or wheels.
No lamp should be used so as to cause undue dazzle or discomfort to any persons using the road. Views will of course differ but the attentions of an enthusiastic policeman may be avoided if the angle of an intense front light is dipped slightly.
I think, based on this, 90% of cyclists after dusk are breaking the law.
http://www.cyclistsdefencefund.org.uk/cycle-lighting
yes even from this distance those bibs look too tight dear
😆 My 2 year old openly mocks me when I put them on.
(I got the bigger ones in the end - they are only ever worn under baggies!)
well what's the intention? getting you seen or complying to a long long list of ideal circumstances?* Having a helmet mounted light enables you to target drivers, it can be seen above parked or stationary vehicles you are passing and I think is a very worthwhile addition to commuter setup. (I'm talking low powered ones here not mega lumens) but is probably illegalThe driver will certainly see you, but the point of reference that you are giving him is 2 feet higher than he's expecting
*yes both would be nice but is it actually possible?
can anyone suggest any examples of good commuting lights
The only ones I've come across which have a shaped beam (equivalent to a car with dipped headlights) while still being bright enough for unlit roads are German-made dynamo lights from Busch and Muller, Supernova, etc. I've just got a B&M IQ Cyo and the difference in light pattern is astounding compared to my Hope Vision 4. The Hope beam lights up the tops of trees, whereas the B&M has a very definite cut-off (more or less where a driver's eye level is). The B&M also puts out a lot more light to the side.
The Exposure Strada should theoretically be similar, but I've heard that the dip function doesn't actually direct the beam downwards, it just shuts off one of the emitters.
You can compare a load of different lights' beam patterns side by side here:
http://road.cc/content/news/69237-big-roadcc-lights-test-2012
The Cyo looks crap compared to the Strada but that's partly to do with it shining the light down at the road rather than spreading it everywhere.
The problem with this thread is that it is possible criticize almost any bike light setup.
Use a traditionlal single (Ever Ready) light: too dim
Use two lights horizontally on the bars: Could be mistaken for a car at a greater distance.
Single bright light: Could be a motorbike.
Helmet light: You might blind driver when you look at them, Driver may not be looking for a light 5 feet in the air.
A bar light and a helmet light: Driver may not make a connection between two vertical lights and misinterpret what they see.
Flashing light: Driver may not be able to judge the distance.
etc etc. You come out with a setup and I can probably come up with an excuse as to why there is a problem.
The bottom line is that at night you need to make yourself visible. Everyone else is required to act with due care when they see the light. If you see a light on the road, you have to ensure that you are aware of what it is before you commit yourself to an action.
I accept that you have to be sensible and not deliberately blind people and that there are light set ups which are irresponsible. (I was once on an mtb ride where half a dozen of us went to cross a road. Despite me warning them, everyone else duly stared up the road with their helmet lights on. This resulted in all the traffic on a busy rush hour dual carriageway stopping to let us cross. I was mortified)
However the fact remains that the reason that people engage in this lumen based arms race is that drivers do not exercise due care. I would happily ride with a gloworm attached to the bars as long as I could be sure that people would look for it. As it is I use a flashing bar light and a fixed head torch. It ain't perfect but then what is?
I have a DX style light I got from MTB Batteries as my main front light (hi-mid-low-strobe-off, usually have it on low) Blackburn something as the main rear, some Leyzene Femto as backups front and back and these which I've found cut down the number of close passes I get in the dark*
Indicator thing is pretty useless though.
What I really want is a TRON style skin suit to wear.
*not my bike before I get abuse for the number of spacers
I have a Strada and it's pretty good, just about bright enough for fast road training on unlit country roads but the beam is well-designed so doesn't throw light everywhere. The 'dip' switch does indeed just turn off one of the LEDs but it is pretty effective (although with thick winter gloves on I occasionally accidentally turn off the light completely, makes downhills exciting if you were actually trying to turn it to max).
Basicly if you look left, look right, pull out. You only actualy check 2 points on the road, your brain interpolates the rest, if the distance in each direction is empty its quite poisible to miss a vehicle much closer.
My two worst accidents were caused this way, once in a car & once on a bike - the other drivers looked right & left & just drove straight into what was directly ahead of them.. me 🙁
I use a Blackburn x8 for commuting, the two lights have different focus & about three different levels of dip, don't know if they are still available though.
The lighting lumens race is a PITA. I use a cycle path on my commute, and cyclists approaching from the other direction with torches on max power make it impossible to see pedestrians using the path.
As is often the case, the Germans have it right - their lights (like the B&M referred to above) are properly designed to light up the road, not blind motorists.
I use a Hope vision one on fixed beam and alter the brightness to fit the conditions - I honestly don't think you need anything brighter AS LONG as you also wear a hi-vis top and have reflective stuff on your shoes, tyres and if you wear a helmet, on that. Tend to have two rear lights in case one fails, one on flash and one on steady. Nothing says bike to a motorist like hi-vis and reflectors
There really is a complete lack of battery powered lights, bright enough for riding at speed on an unlit road that don't dazzle drivers.
Further to the Exposure Strada (which uses a horizontal diffuser rather than a shaped beam) i've found these two
TreLock 950 LS (apparently the bracket isn't great).
http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/a38142/ls-950-control-ion-front-light.html?lg=en&cr=GBP&cn=gb
http://road.cc/content/review/47688-trelock-ls-950-ecopower-control-front-light
Philips Saferide 80 Lux
http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/a39159/bike-light-led-80-lux-black.html?lg=en&cr=GBP&cn=gb
Neither of them are that bright either.
I use a Maxx-D pointed a few feet in front of the bike. Maybe Use should just make a clip on 'hood' for the top, as they already make the Beacon diffuser thing that clips on.
You can also get this for DX/magicshine lights, which works like the Exposure Strada lens
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wide-Angle-Lens-4-MagicShine-Gemini-Lupine-Bike-Light-/280752532003
etc etc. You come out with a setup and I can probably come up with an excuse as to why there is a problem.
Wear a very bright reflective top and shine a moderate light or two onto yourself, then you'll instantly look like a person on a bike. WHen I start commuting on a bike that'll be me, no question.
go on then
[i]should just make a clip on 'hood' for the top[/i]
I've been thinking of fashioning something like this using a piece of Coke can and a ziptie/elastic band/piece of inner tube...
the biggest problem with visibility that I encounter is that the majority of my commute is against the backdrop of thousands of cars, motorbikes, buses, vans, lorries, shop fronts, street signs, advertising, street lights and a million other sources of light.
being seen amongst this lot is a challenge - in some cases, your silhouette is more visible than your light source...
for that reason, a bright flashing light can be seen/ recognised against other sources of light.
shine a moderate light or two onto yourself
Having a constant light pointing upwards at my face would drive me nuts, particularly on any unlit sections of road or cycle path. I tried using an Exposure Spark with a diffuser on the front and even though there was only a tiny bit of light escaping upwards, it was really irritating.
Glitchy bump post.
x2
you need to fit some downlighters on your helmet.Having a constant light pointing upwards at my face would drive me nuts,
Illuminating the rider sounds a good idea, how you'd do it effectively and practically I'm not sure
I have been told by a driver that an L and M urban 180 was bright enough to dazzle him .I have practically had to stop whilst driving because a couple cycled towards me using stupidly bright lights .Others have made the same comment to me as they know I cycle.
There really is a complete lack of battery powered lights, bright enough for riding at speed on an unlit road that don't dazzle drivers.
[...]Philips Saferide 80 Lux
I take issue with your statement have the Saferide 80 and it's fine for me at 15-25 mph (not got the hills to test 30+). Only drawback is that at the high power, I get only an hour's light. As a result, I tend to use a bike with hub dynamo and the Saferide 60 version for winter commuting.
well done you've come up with an outfit that makes a mamil look even more of a ****, quite an accomplishment
🙂
more seriously the visijax seems an ok idea but I hate waterproofs and it's just one item of clothing, maybe some tron style light piping that can be added over other clothes?
Think I've seen sam brown belts with a couple of feeble leds on, not great, dunno how well made they are (waterproof/long lasting etc). Any other stuff?
I have a Light and Motion urban 300 and it has two orange side lights. However these mostly just light my wrists. I point it at the floor in town.
I use chest mounted small flashers too, white on front and red on back - these help a lot ime.
being seen amongst this lot is a challenge - in some cases, your silhouette is more visible than your light source.
You, sir, would be better off with a shedload of reflective gear on, imo.
Or something like this
http://www.bicyclehero.com/gb/nathan-cyclists-reflective-led-vest-neon-yellow.html


