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...of getting a sheared stainless steel bolt out of an aluminum part?
It's sheared about 3-4mm inside the hole, and is in a location that makes it impossible to get a pillar drill/full size drill/the dremmel that I have onto in any sensible way.
Caustic Soda on the part*. You'll get the bolt out, just will have a mulch left of whatever the part is.
*Please don't do this, it's a joke.
Bump for the weekday crowd, any ideas???
Photo would help..
[img] http://www.flickr.com/photos/99523738@N05/9389759231/ [/img]
Flickr fail, anyhoo, here's the link to it:
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/99523738@N05/9389759231/ ]sheared[/url]
It's the bolt on the right hand sind of the starter motor hole. And I know it's not a bicycle, but it does have two wheels 😉
[url= http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2850/9389759231_3bc7e74fcb.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/99523738@N05/9389759231/ ]sheared[/url]
Looking at that, I think you may need to do a bit of dismantling to get at it (if possible)..
if you have a dremel then start with a small pilot hole as close to the centre as possible. invest in some bolt remiving tools and continue making the hole in the screw larger until you can fit the smallest bolt remover into it.
[url= http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extractor-5-piece-set/18643 ]something like this[/url]
worked for me before removing a bolt from a classic mini's transfer gear housing.
failing that continue making the hole bigger until you are just about starting to catch the aluminium then tap it out to the appropriate size. if the threads still arent great then take it up a size/helicoil it.
That's a nice tricky one.
Can you get to it from the "other side"? Take the side cover off and drill from inside the engine compartment?
EDIT; And I've never had a screw extractor work! If the bolt is stuck enough for it to shear when undoing it, a screw extractor will just snap off in the hole, making it worse!
You try a screw extractor if you can get a drill in to it and use lots of heat i.e. oxy acetaline rather than a blow lamp. But you did say that you can't get access to it with a drill.
Failing that, you may need to strip the lot down. The factory would need to be able to get the thread in there somehow before the engine was built up. Major faff for a small bolt though eh!
I'm trying to avoid the 'strip the whole lot down, split the cases and do it properly, as it's a stressed member frame, and I'd thought I'd finished the rebuild with only the starter motor left to fit, funnily enough there wasn't one attached when I bought it as a basket case...arrrrggh!
That looks like an absolute bollocks. Hmmmmm. How sure are you that it needs 2 bolts? Incredibly bodgy, but my mate's 636 got on fine with just one for, well, an unknown length of time between it falling out and me spotting it.
Might be possible to find a small right-angled drill head but it'll still be hard to drill effectively.
Ooh. Maybe a dremel with a snakedrive?
I have the clarke version of that. Trouble it it's stainless and 17500rpm (the lowest speed) work hardens it just a little bit!
A small right angle drive on a hand drill with some cunning clampage to get the pressure might work, hmmm.
And araldit has crossed my mind, but I'm up for being disowned with that levle of bodgery!