[Closed] What disc wheels for my Kaffenback?

Buy some XT hubs and build your own. I used some [url= ]aerotrack[/url] rims and use em for the same thing. Alternatively [url= http://www.cotic.co.uk/order/components/ ]Cotic [/url]sell some.

Custom built by just riding along. Shimano hubs and a23 rims will be about that price. You could go for better hubs...

Superstar components have cheap 29 er wheels £130

Like tinribz, I got some Aerotrack rims - strong, light, quite bling too 🙂 I had them built onto some Novatec hubs from eBay - very light, well sealed, 6 bolt. There are a few models available that come straight from the far east in only a few days - choose the lightest ones. They're standard bearings and very good quality, especially for the money.

Merlin have Shimano factory 29er wheels with xtr discs from 150 notes. seems like a bargain to me. I have my 26 inch mtb wheels on my Kaffenback and use it as a tourer.

Will 6 bolt hubs fit on a kaffenback fork. My pompetamine only takes centerlock hubs as the bolts foul the fork

[url= http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k1889/a73924/cyclo-cross-disc-r520-350-wheelset.html?mfid=278 ]Saw these on bike discount[/url]

Thanks everyone, looking into all these now.

jp-t853, do you have a link? Not sure exactly which ones you mean.

I think 6 bolt should fit, based on seeing this, but I'm not 100%.

http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12881906&p=17904369

I have considered building my own but I've never done it before and don't have a truing stand etc.

I have just been through this myself looking for disc wheels for my cotic x.

In the end I went for factory shimano mt66 (ie slx) from Merlin for about £180.

Next best options I saw were

Just riding along - xt hubs with a23 rims. About £250 ish. What I wanted really but couldn't stretch.

Bike discount.de - dt Swiss 240s. About £225 ish. Only 1800g but though my money should go to Merlin in the uk.

On one 29ers - but I think these are still on at 299? The 26" ones were 179?

The mt66 ones from Merlin I'm very pleased with. Feel quite light and free disc rotors at the moment

[url= http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/wheels/mountain-bike-wheels/factory-mountain-bike-wheels/shimano-mt55-29er-wheels-pair-free-rotors.html ]merlin wheels[/url]

as rob2 said better models are available

Thanks. Ah yes you're right the 29er versions are still £300, too much for me really considering I forgot to budget anything for wheels!

These look fairly tempting at the moment for £172.70 delivered - little bit heavy but then so am I. 🙂

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/wheels/mountain-bike-wheels/factory-mountain-bike-wheels/shimano-mt66-29er-disc-wheels-pair-free-rotors.html

Not sure I need a 180mm rotor on the front but they are free.

I've just built my own as I had some nice hubs sitting in some 26 inch wheels that I no longer use (and the rims were pretty tired). Ended up with a set of Tune hubs built into WTB 29er rims, which give the 35c tyres I'm using a nice profile for less money that it would have cost me to buy a complete set of wheels from say On-One. If you've got a set of old hubs its definitely the cheaper way to end up with a nice wheel. Or get some of those A2Z hubs off of Ebay (Njee raves about them) and they're not a lot of money.

Its really not that difficult to do - I'd strongly suggest the wheelpro book (roughly a tenner) and you'll also need a spoke key. You could easily true them up yourself using the frame and a pencil zip-tied to the seat stay. I caved in and bought a wheel stand from Merlin because they had the Park ones on offer. Even so, with spokes, rims, stand, book and spoke key it all came to less than a set of those on-one wheels and you have the smugness of building your own wheels. Which is nice

And if I can do it anyone can - I'm not the best spanner twirler in the world, and that's putting it mildly...

Ooohhh, and 28c tyres on an MTB rim will be a bit of a stretch, you might have issues with the tyre blowing off the rim when you inflate them. The kaffenback has quite a bit of clearance, maybe look at getting some bigger tyres? You can then use 29er rims and have a spare set for your MTB (assuming you have a 29er, if not then ignore me).

as flange rightly pointed out, there is a considerable smugness rating to be acheived by building your own wheels, and its not really difficult.

EDIT: flange, dont talk yourself down mate, ive known many a shop mechanic who couldnt build a set of wheels, not everyone can.

Cheers, quite tempted to build my own really but it might take a while and at the moment I have no working road bike. Bit confused about rim widths and acceptable tire sizes, I'm sure when I checked some of these MTB rims aren't really much wider than eg Stans Alpha rims which are meant for road and cyclocross.

I would ideally like to be able to put some fast 25-28C road tyres on on occasion.

Worth having a look at this

[url= http://sheldonbrown.com/tyre-sizing.html ]Sheldon[/url]

Although its a bit heavy going. My understanding is that the measurement XXC (as in 25C) is related to the width of the tyre in millimetres. So a 28C tyre is 28mm across. I could have got this totally wrong as I've made a massive assumption.

The WTB 29er rim I've got sat next to me at the moment is 25mm across, outside edge to outside edge so in theory it would take a road tyre. But I wouldn't want to put a road tyre on it, I think you'd end up with a pretty strange tyre profile. That said all my road tyres are no wider than 23c so a 28 might be OK

How unhelpful was that!

I'm about to build up another front road/disc wheel (literally have all the bits sat here in front of me) and this will be my third build. I reckon it'll take me no more than a couple of hours (if that) and I'm proper slow at building. No different in timescales from ordering a set of wheels online and having them delivered - the book is available for immediate download

velocity a23 is 18mm internal; and designed for 23c tyres.
28c tyres are fine on a 19c rim ime.

mavic 719 rims are a nice light option, my latest build is using 319s as they are a bit cheaper/ not too much heavier.

I run 28mm Conti GP4Seasons on some 29er wheels (Stans Crest rims on Hope Pro2 hubs) and they are VERY tight. Metal tyre lever time. Nothing to do with technique trust me. They take 80 psi just to seat the tyre bead!

These seem reasonable from everyone's favourite cycle retailer...

http://www.davehinde.com/road-bikes/wheels/hybrid-disc-wheels-deore-disc-hubs-handbuilt-on-mavic-a317-disc-rims.html

Just been reading this thread too - seems as has been pointed out 29er MTB rims are not the way to go if I want to use thinner tyres, thanks for the warning!

http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/29er-wheels-on-a-cyclocross-bike

Sooooo....... if I was to build the wheels - what rims, how many holes would I want, what spokes should I get, what hubs should I get? lol

A719s as mentioned above? The r520 dt swiss rims off these?

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k1889/a73924/cyclo-cross-disc-r520-350-wheelset.html

I'd like black ones with no braking surface ideally (cos I am a tart) 🙂

These look quite tempting. 19mm rim width apparently which sounds like it should be ok.

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/a63927/red-power-29-xl-disc-6-bolt.html?lg=en&cr=GBP&cn=gb&gclid=CP-EnYrxprMCFcbLtAodRG0AtQ

Still considering whether to try and build some instead.

If anyone's still listening, it looks like I'm going to build my own, eek! Ordered some Novatec hubs off ebay, got the Wheelpro pdf - just need to decide on rims (and spokes/nipples). Currently thinking Mavic Open Pro.

Pros are nice.
I have some CXP33's, chosen becuase the price was right but the slight aero shape does mean mud slides of a bit better thn my flat pair.

Thanks - they look good too. I'm a bit of a tart though and quite fancy the Open Pro CDs because the braking surface is dark grey rather than silver. 🙂

Why not Halo Aerotracks? Almost identical weight, half the price, no braking surface.

I run 28mm Conti GP4Seasons on some 29er wheels (Stans Crest rims on Hope Pro2 hubs) and they are VERY tight. Metal tyre lever time. Nothing to do with technique trust me. They take 80 psi just to seat the tyre bead!

I run 25mm GP4seasons on crests and they're...'snug' but last time i took them off I managed to get them on with just one plsatic tyre leveer to help my thumbs. It is a 'technique thing'.

grum, you're doing exactly the same as me. Open pro CDs for goodness and tartiness, Wheelpro book and a deep breath. I went for SLX hubs instead though.

[img] [/img]

I've since taken the stickers off, flatspotted the rear (another rim awaits, bit it still in one peice, just a bit bumpy0

Had these 28c conti's, 2.0" race kings and a couple in between on the rims with no problems at all.

Have fun!

I'm just about to build my first set of wheels.

Novatech hub, Mavic A119 rim.

Will be going on my multi-use Kaffenback, moving to disc brakes.

With mudguards I can't get a 35mm tyre in without deflating it first, as the lower front bolt is just too "proud", and that's a countersunk allen head, so as slim as it gets.

Can just get a 30mm in inflated.

Why not Halo Aerotracks? Almost identical weight, half the price, no braking surface.

Interesting, thanks - they look pretty sweet. Any idea how they compare for strength against the Open Pros, or what tire sizes would be ok on them?

grum, you're doing exactly the same as me. Open pro CDs for goodness and tartiness, Wheelpro book and a deep breath.

Cheers, looking good! yeah quite looking forward to the challenge, hopefully I will be up to the job. Seems like a good skill to have if you're planning to be into bikes for the rest of your life.

Mary Hinge - which tyres have you tried? i.e. how nobbly?

I found this post from samuri on the aerotracks:

I found some tyres simply won't stay on the aerotrack rims so be careful. They're so narrow. Lancruisers were a good example, I'd spend half an hour making sure the tyre was properly seated and then 5 miles down the road it'd pop off the rim and go BANG! Some folding continentals were nigh on impossible too but they went onto other rims no problem.

I assume he means issues with wider tyres? I'm not likely to be going above 35C at the very maximum. At the moment I mostly use 28C Schwalbe Delta Cruisers, but I might want to stick some more nobbly bigger tyres, or some thinner road tyres on it on occasion.

Velocity A23s with the non-machined sidewall seem like another option, but I can't find any in stock anywhere.

[img] [/img]

I'm considering the same build as you (novatec & open CD), I've discounted the aerotracks and A23s as they're not eyeletted (apparently stronger etc) and I want to use the wheels for light touring.

I've built both Open Pro and A23s and Open Pros are nicer / easier to build.

All IMHO of course

Was specifically talking about the rear not taking a 35mm with the mudguard fitted, front goes in ok.

Michelin Tracker for my commute, Conti Speed King CX, both 35mm. Using SKS guard.

Can get a 30mm Michelin Mud in there no probs, and any 28s easy.

I commute on mine on rough tracks with well loaded panniers, so need a biggish volume.

Lots more room without guards. It's just getting the wheel in, there's enough room once it's in, so I have to deflate the tyre. Could just use a MTB guard I guess, or ignore the front part of the rear guard and bodge up a rear section, letting the rack take some of the crap, and the rear section keeping the rest down. Might clag up my FD though with no protection.

On another thread, I've just ordered a Schwalbe Marathon 28mm to replace my split rear (tyre!). Should make life easier. Time will tell if the volume is enough.

Mary Hinge - ta, I was probably thinking of a 32C nobbly which sounds like it should be ok anyway. I don't actually have a mudguard on the back at the mo - the rack seems to take care of most of it.

MrBlond - thanks - lots of people in this thread saying the A23s are better than Open Pros though, and that the OPs have issues with cracking - hmmmm, decisions decisions..... 🙂

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/wheels-tires/vote-a23-vs-aerohead-vs-openpro-273755.html

Still tempted by the aerotracks as they are much cheaper but worried they might be a bit thin/not as strong (not sure if that's correct).

These are a bit heavier and a bit more expensive, and I don't know how strong they are, but they look pretty cool (I'm spending way too much time looking into this now!) 🙂

http://www.tokyofixedgear.com/products/192-Rims/3795-H-Plus-Son---TB-14-Rims---Black/

[img] [/img]

Go for the aerotracks, Grum. I'm 13stone and ahem. My Tripster's hardly the lightest build, I run it with a rear rack and ride a 22 mile bumpy, muddy lanes route to and from work. I also do the occasional bridleway, green lanes etc and basically ride that bike like I did bikes when I was a kid. If I had to any of them off, the Tripster would be last.

Did the commute in the dark for the first time this winter, yesterday and though I know it like the back of my hand, I certainly don't worry too much about hitting the odd pothole. They're really strong and I'm pretty sure, the same weight as Open Pros. Obviously a decent build helps, but I really do recommend them highly.

EDIT: On the tyres front - currently running 28c Four Seasons, but had Schwalbe Marathons and Vittoria Randonneaurs on there, as well as Small Block 8s if that helps.

Cheers, I'm very tempted, especially given that I can get a pair delivered for £48.

It's just that I weigh even more than you ( 😛 ), 16 stone and a bit, and I just dunno if they are going to be tough enough for my clumsy off-road and light touring. To be fair, given that this is my first wheel build perhaps it's better to go for a cheap option in case I screw it all up.

Thanks for the tyre info - what size were the Small Block 8s?

Numpty question about the hubs I bought (in a slightly impulsive fashion)......

The listing says 32/36h - I wasn't asked to specify. They can't be both can they? I have messaged the seller to check but no response yet.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290767391841?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Hubs won't be both.

Wonder what you'll get! 🙂

I orderd 32s from BikeProRacing on ebay, and that's what they delivered.

32s coz all my other road rims are 32s, and it gives me a bit of interchangeability.

I guess it means you can't order your rims until you know, which means more time agonising over which ones to go for 😆

I'll spend weeks researching and deciding, then usually end up ordering the wrong thing on impulse!

Yeah thought not buy I wasn't sure, ta.

I guess it means you can't order your rims until you know, which means more time agonising over which ones to go for

At least if they are 36h then the Aerotracks can be crossed off the list. 🙂

I'll spend weeks researching and deciding, then usually end up ordering the wrong thing on impulse!

Yup. 😳

grum, re rims the A23s are very nice, have them on my 'sunday' road bike (and they work well as claimed with a 23mm tyre - this is probably irrelevant if you're looking at touring tyres though), but I'm not convinced they're as strong as Open Pros (disclaimer: no evidence to back this up at all) which I have toured on etc.

Built a set of OP wheels for a mate who is 100kg, likes to carry a lot of stuff and breaks frames, he hasn't killed the wheels yet.

A23s also slightly fiddly to build which may not be ideal for your first set, see: http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12869089&p=17773349

Oh yeah, if you care about weight OPs are claimed around 435g, actually 450, A23s claimed 426 and actually 460g.

PS. Have built Halo aero rims as well - it's *very* irritating when you lose the nipples in the rim... 😉

PPS. Those H Plus Son rims look good though

Cheers MrBlond, seems to be mixed reviews on those TB14s - some people saying they are a bit tricky to build/keep true. Might not be best for a first build as you point out about A23s.

http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f2/h-son-tb14-rims-available-yet-experiences-20318.html

The TB14s do look pretty sexy though. 🙂

I'm thinking maybe the hubs are 36h back and 32h front but it just has 32/36 listed by mistake for each.

They sell these as a pair which are 20 front and 24 rear and marked as such.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Novatec-Road-bike-hubs-A291SB-F482SB-320g-R-H-Blk-fit-Shimano-SRAM-Campagnolo-/290627691388?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43aac2a37c

Although these are the same hubs I bought in a different colour, and both are marked 32h, so god knows!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Novatec-Mountain-bike-DISC-hubs-D711SB-D712SB-408g-pair-Wht-fit-Shimano-SRAM-MTB-/271064681421?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1cb6cbcd

Answer my messages damn you Ian28803! Then I can get some hubs ordered and get on with my life. 🙂

What spacing is the Kaffenback? And does it matter if you plug a 135mm rear wheel into it (if it's 130mm)?

I found a forum thread somewhere with someone saying they had asked Planet X and been told it was 132.5, but that 135mm would be fine.

We need a "rate my wheels" thread

OK got a reply and the hubs are actually 32/32 - which does mean Aerotrack's are back on the table. 🙂

grum, re rims the A23s are very nice, have them on my 'sunday' road bike (and they work well as claimed with a 23mm tyre - this is probably irrelevant if you're looking at touring tyres though), but I'm not convinced they're as strong as Open Pros (disclaimer: no evidence to back this up at all) which I have toured on etc.

I do have some 23mm tyres that came on the PX Superlight I bought originally, but at the moment I am using 28C Schwalbe Delta Cruisers. I would like to be possibly be able to use the 23mm tyres on occasion, but I'm more likely to have something around 28C on most of the time I think - the roads are knackered around here and I'm a bloater. 🙂

I just wonder if I would be better with a wider rim like the A23, in case I want to put 32-35C cyclocross tyres on, I think the Open Pros have a maximum recommended tyre width of 28C (though I know you can go bigger without too many issues).

That thread about building the A23s is not encouraging though. I've had a quick read of the Roger Musson book but I need to read a few bits again.

I have 135mm hubs in my Kaff (new one), and it needs no force to get the wheel back in, so I'm saying it's 135mm spaced. 🙂

A23s are nice with 23mm tyres because they make the tyre come up a bit fatter (more like 25mm on my 700x23 Conti 4 seasons) and you can run at a slightly lower pressure - entirely subjectively they 'feel' like you have a bit more grip etc, but then just buying a pair of 700x25 tyres would have been cheaper 😉

Have run 700x37 touring tyres on Open Pros with no issues, daresay people use wider.

indeed!

terrahawk - Member
I've had a 2.4" Racing Ralph on an Open Pro. Bit wibbly wobbly at lower pressures, but it made it through a 24 hour race.
A 2.1" Small Block 8 was spot on.

on my thread here: [url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/what-all-purpose-29er700c-disc-rim ]what-all-purpose-29er700c-disc-rim[/url]

terrahawk know his onions and puts kit through more than I do, so that was good enough for me!

Right, high time I stopped faffing about - just ordered some Open Pro CDs. £91.90 delivered from Parker International.

Just need to do some measurements and work out spoke lengths. I'm thinking DT Competition Spokes from bike-discount.de.

Haven't looked into nipples yet really - is brass the way to go?

Yup.

yup.

Just to warn you: if you're tempted to go on the web to check your ERD measurement of the Open Pro, there are days' and days' worth of forum arguments about whether its this or that, how it should be measured, how deep the spoke is in the nipple... who's a bastard etc.

Go with the wheelpro method, check with sheldon if you fancy. Measure a few times round the rim and take an average.

Aight brass it is then.

Thanks ned - I was going to just religiously follow the wheelpro instructions for everything, but I was wondering about just looking them up.