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New job, new commute. It’s a hilly 20km each way which is proving hard work for me. I would like to spend my way out of this issue by taking advantage of a tax-deducted bike purchase.
Current ride is a Camino set up with 1x GRX and gravel-ish wheels and 36mm Schwalbe G-One tyres (tubeless). I’ll be travelling as light as I can, with a rucksack because that’s what I like.
I’m thinking I’d be faster (or at least more efficient) on a proper road bike, so I fancy a disc-equipped fast commute thingy. Something like a Defy/Roubaix ‘Endurance’ road bike with 28-32mm tyres and a more aero look
Should I just HTFU because it realistically won’t make any difference? In my mind from past experience of road vs gravel bike I’m expecting a 10% ish efficiency gain but is this unrealistic?
Should I just put some skinnier tyres (+/- wheels?) on my Camino?
Am I mad for ditching the reliability of my current bombproof setup by aiming for skinnier tyres?
Should I, in fact, go for a full aero race bike because it’s faster?
Any recommendations? Budget is v flexible and I’d like to be on something nice.
WWSTWD?
10% gain in what? Speed and hence time? That would be a big difference since power needed would be approx 30% higher, or you'll need significant gains to get the faster speed for same power. I'd stick some GP5000's in a 25/28 on the bike and carry on. Maybe a narrower rear block, which in turn lends to a second set of dedicated wheels with faster tyres and second cassette. It's not really about the bike, although slack geometry will always feel slower. Getting lower will give you some speed gains, that might be a longer or flipped stem. Of course a rucksack on the back won't be helping there though. Rackpack like Topeak MTX isn't a bad option.
I don't commute on my Aero Giant Propel road bike or my TT bike unless I am racing after work (will be again next summer). It's obviously faster, but maybe save 7 minutes a day?
A (*cough my) second-hand Giant RoadE.
</stealth ad>
Whacks the 20 mile each way commute for me in a breeze, less sweaty and disgusting than doing it via Amish power. Fully mudguard and panniers up.
I’ll be travelling as light as I can, with a rucksack because that’s what I like.
You are your own problem here. Bike improvement beyond what you already have is a total irrelevance if you insist on putting a bag on your back.
Beyond that....what does hard work mean - it's harder work and sweatier than you'd like? It is taking longer than you'd like?
My commute is 45-50km each way and a combo of flat and lumpy. I only do it one way each day with the car taking the strain in the other direction (car car in & ride home on Monday, ride in and car home on Tues etc). I sometimes use my summer road bike with no luggage, sometimes my old cross bike with guards and rack. The summer bike is faster, but the bigger factor is my - how tired I am, what fitness I currently have.
Bigger picture - its towards the back of September....regular commuting means a reliable bike that won't let you down and you can put away filthy when needed...and....it's not miserably to ride in crappy weather. Guards are I think the single biggest advantage anyone can make for commuting - keeps the bike shite contained, keeps you from getting so cold when riding in the wet and makes getting your clothing wearable for the return journey more attainable.
Second set of wheels with fast tyres.
That said I just put 700x36 WTB Exposures on the Tempest I use for commuting.
Not much difference to the GP5000s I had on previously except for the comfort levels.
I’m doing 2x20 miles flattish with panniers for the laptop and clothes.
As Tired says, you are probably best getting road wheels and tires. Or an e-bike. And while 10% may be realistic - its not in my case but it may be for others. Either way though I noticed I rode at the same intensity but saved a few minutes, so was still a hot sweaty mess.
I commute on a flat ride to the office on a Planet X Tempest, to be honest it doesn't make a huge amount of difference as to what wheels I use, I still get there hot and sweaty.
Having the rucksack also won't help. When I'm doing a full week of commuting I drive in on the Monday taking in a weeks worth of shirts. I then leave my laptop secured in the office, no need for a rucksack. But completely get this is individual.
10% speed difference is a reasonable estimate IME. Road riding on my gravel bike is about 10% slower than my road bike - bit more on steep hills, bit less on rough roads where I can batter the gravel bike through it but I'd exercise more care on a road bike!
However - I'd go for an e-bike. I don't think overall max speed is going to be the issue, it's doing 40km per day, 5 days a week.
I was doing 12 - 15 miles each way (depending on route) and doing that 5 days was almost impossible, especially if I wanted to ride at the weekend and not just look at a bike and think "**** that!" An e-bike would have allowed me to do 5 days a week and still be fresh at the weekend and since my average speed on a road bike was only about 15mph anyway (traffic, junctions, lights, hills), the occasions where I'd be doing 20+ (occasional descents and quieter bits of road) really wouldn't have been affected by the motor cutting out.
It’s a hilly 20km each way which is proving hard work for me
A lighter and skinnier bike when you are dressed in Sunday best lycra without a bag and lights may indeed help a small amount.
In reality the bike you have, due to that rucksack, being start and end of a working day etc is pretty damn good. I personally would pop some slightly faster (but still puncture resistant) tyres on, find a rack top bag or small single pannier and just stick with what you have already.
How long have you done the commute for - are you still finding fitness and food balance?
and +1 on an ebike.
Mrs_oab gets her new superlight e-hybrid in a week or so and something like that would be ace for the route you suggest:
I commited most days on 25c shod road bikes for years.
Now I'm on 50c MTB. Much comfier over rough surfaces. My hands don't feel buzzed at the end of the week.
It is 1min faster over 4 miles each way on the road bike. Mostly as the commute is up and over a reasonable size hill. The MTB spins out about mid 20 mph, the road bike went up to 35mph without spinning out.
I'd keep the bike you have and put thinner gp5000 tyres on.
Slam and Flip your stem down if you want some free aero gainz. A longer lower stem would help getting lower.
If you want to spend your way fast get some fancy carbon wheels to go with the new tyres.
A rack won't slow you down, it might make your back less sweaty.
Remember when its lashing it down mid ride the fashion police are at home drinking espresso. Mudguards are awesome.
Just to add to my earlier post...
I used to commute on a SS road bike - nothing special at all, basic alu frame, drop bars, normal wheels. In winter it'd have clip-on mudguards fitted.
Occasionally (if I was doing a proper road ride after work, going to a circuit race etc) I'd use my good road bike - much more expensive, decent semi-aero wheels, more aggressive position etc.
There was zero difference in times on the actual commute. The limiting factor is not aero or weight or amount of carbon - or even in my case SS vs gears! - it's just the traffic, the constant accelerate/brake/accelerate cycles at junctions and traffic lights, filtering through cars and so on. And it's that constant series of accelerations that tires you out and kills the average speed which is why an e-bike taking the load there will help no end!
Every time I've had a longer commute it's taken a few months for my legs to adapt. Give it more time unless it's just a case of n+1
Something like a Defy/Roubaix ‘Endurance’ road bike with 28-32mm tyres and a more aero look
Bingo. That's exactly what I would use - mine is a Cube Attain GTC but same thing as those mentioned. It may be 'only' commuting but if you have a long way to go you do want to reduce the effort as much as possible, so decent tyres and some 40mm rims would also help. I use Schwalble Pro One tubeless, because they are fast and don't puncture because they are tubeless. If your ride is countryside then there is no need to go all urban commuter, you'll just slow yourself down or make it harder, or both.
10% speed difference is a reasonable estimate IME.
Yeah but if you ride the same speed it's more than 10% easier; and more than 10% less fatigue on your body longer term too.
Bike improvement beyond what you already have is a total irrelevance if you insist on putting a bag on your back.
Fully disagree. A low profile low fitting rucksack is probably the most aero way to carry gear. I took advantage of being able to leave shoes and computer at work, and I used a Camelbak Octane cinched in. There are many packs that don't have a big protrudance at the top to slow you down. Panniers are big windbreaks.
I know it's Rapha but they claim this is actually more aero than no backpack - which is plausible, as it could fill the vortex that you would otherwise tow behind you.
I'd probably go for something like this. More weight down low, behind your back; no big bit behind your head. Also has a rain cover.
Although, my Camelbak has waist pockets which are great for keys - you can lock your bike up without removing your backpack.
Ebike...
the other alternative is pretty much what you have got, IF you are in doubt, chuck some commuting tyres on find out what the weakness is, are you out of gears? is it uncomfortable for that distance at the desired pace? then ask yourself if an endurance road bike is really going to make any tangible difference
My commute is just over 9 miles, couple of decent hills
the Boardman adv 8.9e is great, just settle into the 15mph assist if tired, or hot.. (ie think rain and boil in the bag waterproofs) with just enough to get some proper speed
However, the Nukeproof Digger is faster... in dry conditions, (no mudguards, no waterproofs) and potentially more prone to punctures, BUT I arrive at work knowing I have been riding fast
Actually, i don't know if it's faster.. it just feels faster
I'm a fellow Camino Commute (with G-ones and a 42T front ring), personally I think it's a great year rounder and takes all the punishment of hopping kerbs, gravel tracks etc. I think the key for a quick commute is keep as much at the office as possible and on the days I'm loaded up with stuff I really notice the difference.
I'm lucky enough to have showers and lockers at work, so I use a bar bag and rucksack for my laptop, lunch and tshirt for the day - I then keep my lock, shoes, trousers, wash stuff and a towel at work. It's then just a case of remembering to take in clean towels and clothes as required.
If I'm in the office two days in a row I just leave my laptop and rucksack at work and just use the bar bag, laughing all the way home.
I suggest the best solution to your issue is buy power meter pedals, fit them to your bike and then build a structured training plan into your commute e.g. HIITs on Mon, Wed, Fri and zone 2 active recovery on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
It won't make commuting any easier on day 1, but you won't notice it because now the efforts will be contributing to a bigger goal. Over time, you'll most likely get a lot fitter and faster.
But in terms of the priority of things you can spend your money on to make yourself faster, a more aero frameset is pretty far down the list.
Go Fixed.
Not SS, fixed.
It won't be any faster but it definitely livens up the flats and descents, and you'll feel more macho after cleaning the climbs.
Go Fixed.
Definitely.
Fully disagree. A low profile low fitting rucksack is probably the most aero way to carry gear. I took advantage of being able to leave shoes and computer at work, and I used a Camelbak Octane cinched in. There are many packs that don’t have a big protrudance at the top to slow you down. Panniers are big windbreaks.
Nothing on earth would get me travelling longish distance with a lump on my back again when alternatives exist. Irrespective of aeroness the getting the weight low, the lack of sweaty back and the just plain convenience of a pannier trumps all. If I was only going to carry a small amount of stuff (as you say, reducing the amount you take in and out is very much a good thing) I'd be using a seatpack.
Got to be worth simply trying some nice road tyres on the Camino, because very few new bikes come with nice tyres, if you go the more spendy route of a new bike. Something like perhaps 30/32mm on rear for comfort where aero matters less, with something a bit narrower that will have sidewalls smoothly transitioning from the wheel rim on the front.
There will be the obvious trade-off of costs, speed and puncture protection for a commute. You could get a standard 23/32mm GP5000 pair for ~£75, but a tubeless variant pair could easily set you back ~£125+. GP 4 Seasons used to be popular for winter months, but they're a lot more expensive than they used to be, now ~£40+ each on a good day.
Plus any stem/bar lowering tweaks you can do without your back moaning too much.
I used a rucksack for all my commutes.
Took clothing in by car or train on a non-ride day. Had shoes, trousers, towel, wash kit etc left at work and again on non-ride days I'd swap the trousers, towel etc for fresh ones.
Laptop left at work (at the time it was pure office and/or lab work, no WFH).
Advantages of a rucksack - filtering through traffic, general security, it's a good place to mount lights or have a bright rain cover. Work pass lived in a side pocket so arriving on site all I'd need to do was turn slightly one way and tap the side of the bag on the sensor.
Disadvantages - yes you get a sweaty back.
Nothing on earth would get me travelling longish distance with a lump on my back again when alternatives exist.
Speak for yourself. I'm quite happy to do it, sounds like the OP is as well!
For comfort, mudguards plus getting rid of a backpack - if not carrying a laptop, I’d go for a Tailfin rack, or simply a dry bag strapped to the top of a lightweight rack.
with a rucksack because that’s what I like.
OP said that ^^
For comfort, mudguards plus getting rid of a backpack
Also he's looking for speed, not comfort:
Speak for yourself.
ermmm
Nothing on earth would get me travelling longish distance with a lump on my back again when alternatives exist.
Newsflash - forums are for personal opinions shoka!
But regardless - you (and the op) are wrong! Backpacks and cycling is as wrong as fruit and food or bow ties and anything but a DJ. It's for deviants!
£6500 and it comes with cable discs?
This wasn’t the pannier vs bag debate please. I’ve done panniers. Don’t like ‘em. Too wide as someone said - difficult to filter and definitely less aero than my (small, close fitting) bag. I’m not averse to a seat pack but I find a bag comfy and more convenient. I’m showering anyway so back sweat is no problem.
Also yes I’m 100% putting mudguards back on any day now.
I’ve commuted daily for years (perhaps I should have said…) it’s just the distance that’s doubled recently, plus now it’s also pretty rural without too much traffic so I can maintain a good tempo for plenty of the journey (though it’s got plenty of climbing). I’m trying to make it feel a bit easier so I can do it most days.
Go fixed.
I feel like that’s literally the opposite of what I need!
Good suggestions re flipping the stem - I’ll give that a go because it’s currently setup with a high ish front end for off road excursions.
What I really want is:
1) The ability to ride daily without bonking on the way home.
2) To close the differential between car and bike so I don’t get hassled about being home late when I go on my bike.
Not read all the replies but if I had to do 20km each way I'd save up for an e-bike. That's double what mine is give or take a km, and for me personally, I wouldn't want to double my current distance and have to do that 5 days a week. Sure some people can, but not for me.
This wasn’t the pannier vs bag debate please. I’ve done panniers. Don’t like ‘em. Too wide as someone said – difficult to filter and definitely less aero than my (small, close fitting) bag. I’m not averse to a seat pack but I find a bag comfy and more convenient.
I used to be a rucksack wearer too! Anyway, what works for me, as I've mentioned in other threads but just in case...
* Frame bag (planet x podsacs medium) to contain pump, long lunch box with click lock type lid (search bacon box on amazon), mobile, keys (jangles around a little meh).
* Quick release waterproof Ortlieb saddle bag for spare tube, levers, multi-tool. (rarely gets opened)
* Alpkit dry bag for clothes bungeed to rear rack no panniers. Back doesn't get so sweaty, still reasonably aero (ha its a hybrid with a tubeless knobbly on the front and slick hybrid puncture resistant tyre on rear).
When I get to work:
* hang helmet on handlebars, placing into it the bungee, and saddle bag
* pull everything out of the frame bag and into drybag
* lock bike
* carry helmet and dry bag into work
For a minimum of 3 days out of 5 I take it as easy as possible on the way home. Othert imes have a bit of fun messing about off road.
1) The ability to ride daily without bonking on the way home.
2) To close the differential between car and bike so I don’t get hassled about being home late when I go on my bike.
1 - That's not the bike. That's far more to do with nutrition and fitness than what you have in terms of your current bike and the one you could buy.
2. Your commute admin will make more difference to your get home time than your bike - where you get changed, speed you get changed, bike unlocking faffage etc. You might shave 2mins off a 20km ride with a bike change, arguably 5 times that with better admin. Or skive off a few mins early.
I do 20km each way of road commute average 3 days a week on my Revolt with a tail pack and 40mm gravel tyres, SE London to Camden. Some 100m+ of hill at the start/end.
I've done 4 days but would probably struggle with 5 and a long weekend ride. Combination of the occasional short notice need to wear an ironed shirt and/or be on a different site, and age/fitness.
Not hugely looking forward to switching to the full dress 3x8 commuter soon as the weather switches, with 14kg of mudguards, rack and pannier, and 40mm puncture proof tyres on heavy touring wheels, but I've also learned to go a bit easier. Takes on average an hour each way, loads of traffic lights break up any rhythm, I just listen to 6 music on the way in and R4 on the way back.
To the OP, I'd give it a month or so to adjust to the new distance and take it from there.
A ridiculously cheap Orro.....
Not read all the replies but if I had to do 20km each way I’d save up for an e-bike.
Depends on the route. I used to go to Bristol, 2-3 times a week for a while, and there were only maybe two hills where the power would have been needed, the rest was all fast and open >15mph even though not much of it was flat.
I was told many a year ago “It never gets easier. Ever. You just get faster”.
I commute 65km’s a day on my PX Tempest. G-Ones are a nightmare compared to a decent road tyre. I cruise comfortably at 30kph on 32 pro one tubeless but blow out my derrier crusing at 30kph on my g-ones. Get some road tyres. Min 28c and i find up to 32c theres naff all difference between them if you run correct tyre pressures.
nothing wrong with 1x on a road bike either. I run a 1x 38t chainring with 11-42 cassette. Dont spin out till bordering 50kph ish - who cruises at that speed anyway. And climbing I’ve a better ratio than a compact road bike 2x setup.
i dont use a rucksack. I use a restrap saddle bag and an agu frame bag. Need to travel light but fully loaded thats about 14l of cargo space. More if run a stem bag.
i also dont wear baggies so no flappy jackets.
i think you need to look at setup before buying a new bike. Gravel bike…road bike. Put road tyres on the gravel bike and for joe punter there’s hardly any difference in speed.
oh….the biggest change I made - shed 5kg. Avg speed increased notably.
full aero race bike - IMHO you’d be wasting your money for commuting. Dont underestimate the toll of a winter on our roads.
“1) The ability to ride daily without bonking on the way home.
2) To close the differential between car and bike so I don’t get hassled about being home late when I go on my bike.”
If there are any parts of the ride where you’re under 15mph for much of the time than an ebike will allow you to save your energy and keep you moving faster - or not, depending on your mood/lungs/legs that day.
The main reason I want to ride is for fitness. Don’t really fancy an eBike, though I accept it’s probably the ‘correct’ tool for the job.
The main reason I want to ride is for fitness. Don’t really fancy an eBike, though I accept it’s probably the ‘correct’ tool for the job.
You don't really get fitter by just smashing commutes, that's a way to get you wrecked and also stuck in a rut of just riding 20km at a time.
You'll reach the end of the week knackered from 240km and not want to do anything at the weekend. Using an e-bike, at least for some of the commutes, will keep you riding more.
I bought some Vitoria terrenos this summer, replaced the Cx tyres, massively faster and more comfortable. That, plus a full frame bag (Apidura) instead of a rucksack has massively increase my speed.
“The main reason I want to ride is for fitness. Don’t really fancy an eBike, though I accept it’s probably the ‘correct’ tool for the job.”
I commute on an ebike - it keeps me fit because when I have the energy I pedal hard and when I’m tired I let the motor do more of the work. For most of my local MTBing I ride my singlespeed hardtail.
The ebike was out of use recently having its suspension serviced and I was commuting on either my singlespeed MTB (stupid gearing for roads) or my Brompton. The low level fatigue vs the ebike is v annoying, I swear it gets in the way of pedalling hard and working my cardio system to the max like I frequently do up the climbs on the ebike.
Also, those stormy days with stupid headwinds - OMFG e-bikes are the best things ever.
The way I read the OP is it says 'I want a new bike', and the answer to that is always yes
To be honest the best reason I could use with myself if I was the op and wanted a new bike justification would be that a gravel bike that you want to use as a gravel bike at a moment's notice at the weekend is a bit restricted if you have 'commutered' it up with faster tyres, guards (and a rack 😉 ) . That's my justification - my gravel bike could do commute duties but I like it unmolested and my commute/winter road bike lives fully guarded and racked up 12 months a year. It's decedent but just about justifiable.
I rode fixed for many years, 10-20 miles each way. 23c Schwalbe Durano Plus were very durable. Changed to an old 90's MTB running 1.7" semi-slicks. 10 miles takes about 42 minutes. Went on the CX bike a couple of weeks ago - minimal load though, and was 5 minutes quicker each way - not much different to the fixie.
Best option might be sare wheels and road tryres for the gravel bike.
change to 30mm road tyres or buy an ebike.
First thing would be faster tyres and the most aero position OP’s back can stand, then tighter clothing.
then a proper road bike.
an Ebike is great IF your average is under the cutoff speed.
N+1 is always great and that, but I wouldn’t buy anything really fancy for commuter duties, winter will take its toll on a nice bike fairly quickly.
the most aero position OP’s back can stand
hmmmm - I'd qualify that with a.......can stand AND WILL ACTUALLY USE....
Roadie background and I do chuckle at some bike setups 'to get aero' (complete with obligatory aero wheels) then are ridden around sat up on the hoods like a sack of spuds for all but the odd descent. Converse to a lot of popular opinion the most aero real world setup for a lot of people is actually to raise the bars not drop them from what they currently have to give them a drops position they can use for prolonged periods (then get your yoga on and work on flexibility).
You don’t really get fitter by just smashing commutes, that’s a way to get you wrecked and also stuck in a rut of just riding 20km at a time.
You’ll reach the end of the week knackered from 240km and not want to do anything at the weekend. Using an e-bike, at least for some of the commutes, will keep you riding more.
My personal experience was I got significantly fitter from doing 30km commutes (60km a day, although usually only 4 times a week), and still do a fast paced 120-180km club ride at the weekend, sometimes several club rides a week actually, 500-600km total per week sometimes.
However to do this it was critical follow a structure and alternate between training stress and active recovery days.
If your goal.is to get fitter I reiterate - you want a power meter.
Converse to a lot of popular opinion the most aero real world setup for a lot of people is actually to raise the bars not drop them from what they currently have to give them a drops position they can use for prolonged periods
Fully agree with this. My endurance bike is faster than my old racey one because the higher bars mean I can spend most of my time in the drops.
I have moved to commuting 8 miles each way on a Carrera Crossfuse which has a Bosch Active Line Plus motor. It is excellent and very quiet. I have fitted an Alfine rear hub for ultimate commuter convenience.
Previously I was riding a Pinnacle Arkose A8. I was finding I was increasingly knackered trying to maintain 5 days a week and rushing backwards and forwards juggling work and collecting kids etc.
The Ebike isn't massively faster. Some slow sections can't be sped up, slaloming through bollards, passing pedestrians and other path users. It will help on long stretches where your average speed is below 25kmph. If you are knackered you can ease off pushing at 30kmph and let the motor support at 25imph.
Mine is a part car, part bike commute, and I was getting back to the car in a state where I wasn't in a good state to drive. Ebike is helping avoid that, making the whole approach more sustainable.
I cycle a regular 21km (each way) commute, blessedly mainly along a nicely surfaced bike path. I can add more distance if I want.
I alternate between a gravel-ish custom steel Shand (mudguards, 35mm tyres, discs) and a classic geometry steel racer (big gears, carbon aero rims, 25mm tyres). The latter is a unsurprisingly a faster bike, but the segment times are within single-digit percentage unless I go off-commute and point uphill.
I’d go for two bikes, as eventually you will get a mechanical failure that can’t be fixed overnight. Case in point, one of my bikes has a snapped a chainring bolt!
I’m also a backpacker, and find the pannier solution better for shorter commutes.
20k hilly I would go for a steel single-speed racer. I have an old Genesis Flyer that has cast off parts from my other bikes, a nice set of hand-built wheels, and I stick on mudguards on in the winter. I ride Gp5000's until they puncture and put on 4seasons in the winter. Its fast and makes me strong.
I leave everything I can at work, shoes trousers in on monday and wear for the week, take in shirts etc daily. On and off I have done this most days to 5 days a week when in the office
I’m really enjoying my hilly (and ‘gravel’ in places) 18km commute on an ebike. It’s a Halfords/Boardman ADV 8.9e drop-bar e-gravel-bike. I feel ‘worked’ at the end of the week rather than knackered, and I can turn up the assistance as suits.
I run it 1x 42 + 11-28. It works well on the hills with the motor below limiter, and I like the close ratios when I’m above it.
Full length mudguards and a Thule pannier with a padded laptop sleeve. It’s a commuting machine 🙂
Edit/PS:
They’re currently 25% off until Monday with a trade in
I’m sure the new battery Fazua is sending me will be completely reliable.
Is everyone assuming the commute in question is urban?
@chiefgrooveguru Amen to all of that.
I christened my e-bike Whatheadwind? The South Downs are generally quite windy and I love how it laughs at ‘em.
Having not read all the responses I’m not sure if you’ve covered how often you are commuting? 5 days a week of that would break you in fairly quick order, unless you are planning to do no other riding
better tyres and wheels would be an upgrade, I think narrow bars also makes a massive difference. But for 40 k of hilly riding every single day I’d be seriously considering an e-bike, even when fit I’d find that a chore. Especially on the days you simply can’t be arsed..
If it was me, I'd use the gravel bike and panniers to lug everything in/out once/week, and get a fast road bike for the rest of the time.
Thanks for all the suggestions so far.
Having not read all the responses I’m not sure if you’ve covered how often you are commuting? 5 days a week of that would break you in fairly quick order, unless you are planning to do no other riding
Honestly not sure. 3-4 times a week? I did it two days on the bounce and was pretty tired at the end of day 2.
If your goal.is to get fitter I reiterate – you want a power meter.
Hmmm, seems a bit serious for commuting? How are you suggesting it would be used?
Is everyone assuming the commute in question is urban?
It’s not - at least not very. I have a couple of route options but none of the options are too urban, except for the last couple of kms 🙂
a gravel bike that you want to use as a gravel bike at a moment’s notice at the weekend is a bit restricted if you have ‘commutered’ it up with faster tyres, guards (and a rack 😉 ) .
In a way I’ve followed the opposite philosophy - my commute bike stays as a totally capable gravel bike, so that I feel I have the option to take in some off-road on my commute, even though that happens so rarely this is not a sensible ethos. If I get any time to ride at the weekends (also a rarity) I’ll be on my MTB.
The way I read the OP is it says ‘I want a new bike’, and the answer to that is always yes
This guy gets it.
Hmmm, seems a bit serious for commuting? How are you suggesting it would be used?
I tried to cover that in my first post. Basically training to power makes it much easier to do quality structured training rather than just smashing yourself every day. And you can track your progress using the data as well
E.g. tuesday 4x3min interval HIITs each way
Wednesday keep in Z1-Z2 for active recovery
Thursday 2x5 min interval HIITs each way
Friday keep in z1-z2 for active recovery
An analogy here is people in a large building complaining that the lifts are too slow.
You could spend a lot of money making the lifts 10% faster but people will keep complaining because it doesn't change the user experience that much.
But if instead of doing that if you put mirrors on the doors, or screens showing news updates above the doors then all the complaints stop.
To directly answer the brief of spending your way faster the answer in approx order of significance is something like:
- 25c GP5000
- full frame bag (in place of rucksack)
- aero skinsuit
- aero helmet
- veet
- aero shoe/calf guards
All of that might save you a couple.of minutes a day. Basically if is physically or socially uncomfortable then you're probably on the right track.
Silly me I forgot aerobar clipons in that list
“Honestly not sure. 3-4 times a week? I did it two days on the bounce and was pretty tired at the end of day 2.”
I would really try to borrow/hire a suitable ebike to see how it works for you. I’ve never done a long bike commute but my life is fairly busy and physically tiring and it’s so different being able to relax and let the motor do the work when you’re feeling knackered - that might be none of the ride, part of the ride or all of the ride. And then you can ride every day.
I've ridden eBikes (albeit not loads and never on this commute) but I just never find myself putting decent power down. It's like my brain says if I've got the motor, why bother? Now, I accept that on some days that's exactly what I need, but I like thrashing myself on the bike and I'm pretty certain that would never happen with me atop an eBike.
Basically training to power makes it much easier to do quality structured training rather than just smashing yourself every day.
Fair enough. I can see how that would work on a flat commute but I can't really see myself doing that. I've tried intervals on other commutes and just ended up feeling shattered really quickly. It's a hard enough ride (for me) without adding in intervals etc. Maybe once I get more comfortable with the distance.
You are successfully making me question my motivations though - I guess it's not solely so I can gain fitness, there are other reasons (avoiding traffic, environmental benefits, the ability to eat cake and not get too fat etc).
Maybe the answer is actually eBike twice a week, normal bike twice a week.
I do 4-5 days per week by ebike and vary the power assistance (Fazua is nicely customisable that way) but it is very tempting to leave it in Rocket mode
Then again, even in Rocket the motor puts in less than I do to keep the speed decent on the steep bits. It’s just less of a workout and I get up the hills faster.
But I’m not interested in training. Just getting to work in an enjoyable way with some added exercise.
I was told not to do HIIT on a commute. You have to ONLY do the high intensity and recovery, otherwise it's not good for some reason or other.
I've found that the time difference between going really quickly, and easing off, is like 2-3 minutes. Biggest difference for me is weather or completely changing the bike - certainly winter where I'll switch to studded tyres (fortunately now got two sets of wheels, so means mild days will be on slick tyres/wheels), rather than spending 3 months on spiked tyres every day. I can be 10 minutes slower on spiked tyres in the cold/wind than I usually am for 3/4 of the year.
An e-bike wouldn't work for me as I'm quicker than 15.5 mph on most of my commute.