[Closed] Welding a piece on your steerer, anyone done it?

no, but i need to on one set of rebas, let me know how you get on.

i was thinking about turning something up on the lathe with the star fangled nut threads already cut into it (no need to be a tube then) but with a smaller diameter good 25mm or so long which would pushfit into the inside of the steerer. if the steerer and the insert had a good chamfer, and someone handy tigged it up it would be fine. I would try and ensure your stem bolted on some of the original steerer though...

is the steerer steel, or ally? the rebas are steel, so i'm not panicking too much. ally, i would worry a bit more.

there's a few options here that might be a good start point;;

[url= http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/stems-accessories-dept350_pg1/ ]http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/stems-accessories-dept350_pg1/[/url]

and maybe one of these to hold it all together, 'just in case';

[url= http://www.gussetbikes.com/products-information.php?id=HSGUHLK ]http://www.gussetbikes.com/products-information.php?id=HSGUHLK[/url]

welding = distortion + weak area.

= dentist appointment

Would have to be 100% aligned with no weld standing proud of the steerer to even fit through the headset.

After than it's just how brave you are feeling and how confident you are in your 'mate'. Or ex-mate...

I've done this 'repair' to at least 4 sets of forks.no failures,as yet,but the repair section,as already mentioned,needs to be perfectly in line with the original steerer,easy enough with a jig,and a vice.

Steel steerer?

A lot of work, new forks would be easier.

[url= http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/169502-a-guide-through/ ]Guide?[/url]

Perhaps a better idea....

Press a star washer into the original tube section then press a second one into the smaller inch section - Then place on your spacers to get the two tubes concentric. insert a bolt through tightly, take of the spacers then weld. After welding if you have a torch, heat up the area and leave it cool down slowly (takes out weak spots). Then file the weld down flush so that you can put the spacers back on. Finally, when you put the cap back on when installing the forks make sure your bolt is long enough to fit through both star washers.

This should give you the strongest fix your gonna get without replacing the steerer.

gulp.

but one thing I would suggest is ditch the star nut for a bolt that runs top to bottom. Maybe drill out the thread of the star nut so it acts as a guide for the rod.

or just buy a new CSU and sell your old one?

I have been pointed in the direction of a inset headset which will giving me back the half ish inch i need, not having to worry about the steerer cracking or bars coming off. Good call Stu

[url= http://www.daveyatescycles.co.uk/custom_bike_frames-Prices-52.php ]Dave Yates[/url] charges £75 to fit a new steerer, he might be able to help.

Or could you get a new upper assembly from a knackered pair?

using a 1" steerer as a sleeve makes sense.

I had the same problem. A crank bros headset and a spank stiffy stem gave me back around an inch and made a set of domains useable.

An engineer mate did it with an internal shim and some welding.... It's held out for years.

I would not risk it personally. If it fails you could die.

Cheers for any advice

I did it with some RC31's years ago. Used a peice of steerer to make up the difference & an Amoeba headlock thing (big bolt that went top to bottom).
Never moved. I even had a peice of tube turned down to slip inside, top to bottom but never got around to fitting it. Try & get a very low headset & a stem with a low stack height. Obviously dont even consider it if the lower stem bolt is anywhere near the top of the original steerer. I wouldnt weld anything.

How about trying to get the lowest stack height headset available before messing with the steerer?