You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Has anyone done it with the stock rims and tyres?
I just tried it tonight but the tyres are sooooo baggy on the rims, there is just no chance of them sealing at all.
I'm using the duck tape sticky side out, then gorilla tape all round method.
Very frustrating. Not sure if the rims or tyres are the issue but they are crazy baggy.
Everything is under a week old by the way.
Well, I finally managed to go tubeless successfully on the fatbike using a couple of methods to overcome the baggy tyres.
I duck taped and gorilla taped as I mentioned above, I then cleaned the rim and sidewall with a rag with a bit of white spirit on it. I then pumped the tyre up with a tube, then taped the tyre to the rim with insulation tape.
I also put a strap around the tyre to help keep it in/on.
Once taped, I removed the tube being careful to only dislodge the one bead, fitted my valve, poured in 8oz of Stans, fitted the tyre, cinched the strap up a little, re-inflated the tyre with my compressor, shook it about, job done.
Saved 1.4lbs.
Trouble is though, despite covering 90% of the inner rim with gorilla tape, the Stans was still escaping from the weld.
Do I trust this setup? Will it seal well? Will I die?
I've got a fair bit of pressure in both tyres at the mo and have wanged it up and down the road a bit, bashing up and down curbs but am wondering if when I drop the pressure if I may die. I'll see I suppose...
tbanks for the update, useful ref for us current and future Wazoo owners. I've never done tubeless and always been a bit meh about it, I'm currently going the 180grm 26" freeride tube route someone posted in another thread as a way to easily drop rotating weight.
Don't suppose you weighed one of the Mission Commands whilst it was off? Will weigh mine when I get the bits and whip em off in just curious how they compare to the Floaters I've bought (~1450grm each).
Some fat Tyre weights here
https://fat-bike.com/2012/01/tire-weights-for-fat-bikes/
Out of interest (newly acquired fat bike) which 26" freeride tubes in particular??
No, not weighed the tyres sorry.
with apologies to however posted them in a different recent fat bike thread, and recommended them as a decent weight loss if you don't go tubeless, I've ordered a pair of these
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/schwalbe-sv13f-xlight-fr-presta-tube-26-tyres-54-559-to-75-559-prod26669/
I also ordered some green Lizard Skin lock ons for the Wazoo for when the original grips (which aren't the greatest) wear out 😉
ring em and ask em to add tubes to order, if the order's still being processed surely they won't knock back an extra sale?
Doubtful I'll try tubeless and haven't bothered on any of my other bikes but nice to know if it works in case I get dragged kicking and screaming into the 21st century...
Skinny tubes make fat tyres looking even fatter!
I've had the dispatch email tonight unfortunately.
The latest 'trick' with tubeless seems to be packing tape/shrinkwrap.
Just wrap several layers of 6" wide clingfilm/paletwrap/shrinkwrap type tape around the rim. Add the valve and tyre, and pump it up. The tape is springy enough to give a seal against the tyre long enough for it to seat, then obviously confirms to the rim shape under pressure. Pump the tyre upto it's working pressure, trim off the excess with a craft knife.
Not tried it myself, but my front wheel finaly gave up the other week so I need to re- do it.
My worry is that almost all fat rims are single wall with a small box section in each corner, so when the tyre burps it goes down instantly, and tends to stay in the middle of the rim rather than re-seat. I've not found a foam resilient enough to pad it out and not compress yet.
Next thing I've got to try is some extra wide electrical insulation tape and some stickyback 3M draught excluder foam.
Been riding the Wazoo about at lunch today and noticed a few splashes of sealant on the tyre. Stopped and there is a welling of sealant forming at the bottom.
Basically, I think the conclusion is that this tyre and rim combo can't be run tubeless reliably or safely. I've currently got a good amount of pressure in the tyre, and even then I can squeeze and deform the sidewall and sealant escapes pretty easily.
I feel certain that at proper lower pressures I'd lose the tyre straight away.
😐
Happy to be proved wrong if there is a technique to getting it virtually bombproof.
Just done some weighing whilst swapping bits for reference;
OE Tubes 420 and 415g
OE Mission Commands 1460g and 1550g
On One Floaters 1390 and 1430g
OE bar 380g
OE post 350g
OE saddle 410g
Fitting Floaters (for mud, not weight loss) and bar/saddle/post I already had lying around dropped 560g.
If the freeride tubes are close to claimed 180g that'll be another nearly 500g of rotating weight dropped for £12.
How does the bike itself ride?
I'm quite tempted by one as an entry into Fat Biking. That and I reckon the Mrs might enjoy it better than the one she's on just now when we go for family rides with the brats.
It rides brilliantly dahedd. I was taken aback at first by the self-steer you get, but I think I had the pressures too low, plus that was on the street.
Once you get it off-road is brilliant.
No getting around the fact it's a bit portly, but that can be changed gradually.
Really nice bike for the cash. I'm impressed. 🙂
dahedd - Member
That and I reckon the Mrs might enjoy it better than the one she's on just now
I keep looking at the Calibre Dune and thinking would my wife prefer that to her Myka Sport she currently has. The bike would be more stable I'd think. Similar weight. No cheap coil fork. But, on the other side of the coin, the Myka (2012 26er) must be worth peanuts despite being near enough new and she has only ridden it a couple of times in the past year so is it worth the (albeit low) cost to change.
Just been out again around Woburn. Floaters give far more grip in mud than the Mission Commands, and do seem to turn/lean more quickly. Fitted my dropper but will be putting it back on the big bike, for whatever reason I don't use it on the Wazoo.
And whilst I have my weight weenie head on, those freeride tubes arrived today and are true to claimed weight- came in at 181 and 190g.
Only problem with the FR tubes is they're irreparable, if you put patch on a 2.5" tube and try and inflate it to 4" it will peel off and the lose air again fairly soon (usually IME at the point furthest from home on the next ride).
DIY done last weekend so I may actually get some me time in the shed to play about with tubeless this weekend.
At the risk of cursing myself one of the reasons I'm still meh about tubeless is I get so few punctures - maybe 1 a year, and I probably see a tubeless fail (non-sealing hole or burped tyre) a year. And at 65kg I can run quite low pressures without pinch flats.
Cue thorn puncture carnage on my next ride...
@ CTM
I'm a bit 'tyre pressure obsessed' at the moment. What are you running?
I'm yet to try tubeless but can't stop riding it at the moment! 🙂
I filled my fatty inner tubes with slime tube sealant and found the pressures too low when riding to seal the tube effectively unless banging in three CO2 cartridges to get them up to 20-30 psi.
My mate against Slimes advice/website filled his with a mix of the bigger rubber grains innertubes sealant and the Slime Pro we both run in our other bikes tubeless set up...his thorn holed tubes seal up well and at low oressure it would seem.
So if you're going to use the fatty regularly I would say add two cups of Slime Pro to the inner tubes and ride with a smug feeling...but be prepared if you leave the bike standing for a long time with flat tyres it will potentially wreck the tubes.
Normal Man, having just bought a fat bike and having raced a season of CX I am all about tyre pressure 😉 Settled on 7psi front 8 rear riding in Afan a few weeks ago (bottomed rims on a few edges but didn't puncture) and riding that at the mo, but next time out on local non rocky trails I'll try 6psi in both. When occasionally pedalling ugly on hard surfaces I get the 'woo-woo' of the rear tyre compressing with power strokes but otherwise there's no other feel that they're too soft. Tube volume goes as square of radius, so doubling from a ~2" to a ~4" tyre means 4x the volume, so ~ 1/4 of the pressure needed compared to a non-fat bike?
Thanks CTM (sorry OP for the thread hijack)
I've been working my way lower and lower. Currently trying 5psi front and 6psi rear.



