Using Shimano Brake hose with SRAM brakes and new fittings?

Bad idea on many levels.

Flushing out the system totally and absolutely will be difficult and you don’t want cross contamination of DOT and Mineral fluids.

I wouldn’t even be confident that hoses designed for Mineral would stand up to DOT in the long term.

The fittings at one end of the hose (usually calliper) are often factory crimped, so not easy to replace. Plus the Shimano calliper end fittings and seals won’t be compatible with SRAM and DOT.

I can’t comment on internal diameters, but hydraulic brakes are not something where I would want to risk loose fitting or poorly connected interfaces.

If the bike is tube in tube, the routing of your existing hoses shouldn’t be too problematic. In the worst case, use the existing hose to pull through the new one, or at least some sort of guide cable/piece of string. Even if not, you are only talking about the rear.

Even if your hose lengths are too short, you only need to buy one hose as you can reuse the rear for the front and just buy a new rear. The SRAM levers are interchangeable left to right so you might not need to do too much anyway.

SRAM fittings are dead easy to fit.

You will require a bleed, but that will be easier than a total flush through.

If you are going to the trouble of changing the brakes, I would suggest that if a job is worth doing it is worth doing right.

I'd replace them. Shimano use a couple of different hoses. Their lower spec ones have a smaller internal diameter too.
Use the existing hoses to pull the new ones in?

Orbea Rise?

While it could be done, replacing an internal hose would actually be so much easier.

If you are going to the trouble of changing the brakes, I would suggest that if a job is worth doing it is worth doing right.

Yeah it did seem like a bad idea after I’d typed it out 🤣

I’ve bought the new hose I need already.

Orbea Rise?

Yep 😁 My lovely wife treated me for Christmas and told me it’ll need a new fork & brakes.

I’ve got no issues normally with changing brake lines, just heard horror stories about having to drop the motor & battery to get the hoses through - I really don’t want to have to do that before I’ve even ridden it 😳

Yep 😁 My lovely wife treated me for Christmas and told me it’ll need a new fork & brakes.

I’ve got no issues normally with changing brake lines, just heard horror stories about having to drop the motor & battery to get the hoses through – I really don’t want to have to do that before I’ve even ridden it 😳

Excellent Christmas present! I got a book and 3x Terry's chocolate oranges!
On my H30, I just changed the discs to 203 front and back. I'm finding the braking to be fine like that.
I would like to change the Marzocchi 140mm fork; probably to a 160mm Fox or Rockshox, but I think I'm about to blow the budget on a Yeti ARC frame instead 🙂

It is much easier dropping motor to fit rear hose, don’t need to remove battery though.

I do love a chocolate orange 😁

Mine’s the H30 too, she got herself the Carbon one but I’ve got a bit of a (probably unfounded) concern about carbon mountain bikes. I didn’t think I was ready for an eeb yet but having spent a few days recently chasing various people uphill under my own steam I can now see the appeal!

I’ve ordered a 160mm Lyrik Ultimate for it, Tredz have them for £700 and I get 10% off. The unridden Z2 should get me a couple of hundred back on eBay 🤞

I’m running the same brakes on my other bike and find them excellent, especially as they are on offer at the moment. I’m a bit heavy on brakes, mostly because I like to ride steep stuff that’s beyond my ability…

It is much easier dropping motor to fit rear hose, don’t need to remove battery though.

My plan is to try and pull it through with the old hose and I’ll get the chainring tool ready in preparation incase I get stuck and have to drop the motor.

You’ll need to drop the motor. You’ll not get the rear hose through without. I had mine off today to put my Tech4/E4’s on. It’s a 20 minute job, RH arm, chainring and guard off, undo the 6 motor mounts and a you’re away. You don’t need to unplug cables just swing it down and put the rear motor mount bolts back in to support it.

@Blazin-saddles cheers, but not what I wanted to hear 🤣

Do you happen to know the part no for the chainring tool offhand?

I wouldn’t even be confident that hoses designed for Mineral would stand up to DOT in the long term.

I checked this a while ago, most of the hoses used for bike brakes (everything i could find except those H2O brakes) essentially used off the roll narrow bore hydraulic hose with logos printed on it. THose with "DOT only" or "mineral only" printed on them are referring to the brakes rather than the hoses.
The hoses will take DOT, Mineral, Olive oil, Water, orange juice, whatever.

Cross contamination is the issue.

This tool? https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/lockring-tool-shimano-steps-lrt-2

I used this one https://www.bicycleservicecentre.co.uk/product/bsctools-cmt-1-tool-for-shimano-steps-lockring-e6100-e7000-e8000-e9000-and-ep8/173

Not all the tools are thin enough to fit the gap between the ring. I forget which ones don't fit now.

@mert I did expect the hose would all be the same stuff.
But yes it’s still a good idea for me to do the job properly.

You'd probably be able to tow the line through with the forks out but there's a tight corner as it exits the frame to go through the guide tube near the bottom bracket, was hard enough to thread with the motor out of the way to be honest! I'm assuming the alloy frame is like the carbon? mine is the M10 carbon.

The hose fittings for Code calipers are different to Guide ones, hope that isn't an issue.

The hose fittings for Code calipers are different to Guide ones, hope that isn’t an issue.

I nearly made that mistake last time but all good cheers 👍

I’m assuming the alloy frame is like the carbon? mine is the M10 carbon.

BSC tool ordered cheers.

As far as I can see the alloy frame looks the same except the cables go in to the frame slightly further down the down tube rather than the head tube.