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With the aim of going N-1, has anyone done this?
Looks like (CF the 29er I use as a cx bike) the BB will be 3cm higher and TT 3cm longer, neither ideal, angles aren't a million miles different though.
So using a mtb for cycling off-road, lanes and grit paths?
hmmmm, I'm not sure that'd work. 😉 8)
Have a brand new wanga frame sitting here and contemplating the same ! , drops, short stem bb7s etc
I have a 26" M2 that is adorned with drop (flared) bars as you describe - I use it as a 1-2 hour spin bike on the roads mostly - though have managed an all-day 75 odd mile spin as well. It's not bad at all, wouldn't like to be to bashed about TBH and the longer TT takes its toll after a while.
Jekkyl the point is drop bars and TT length.
It doesn't need to be perfect but I wouldn't ride it if it was shit.
[quote=cynic-al ]Jekkyl the point is drop bars and TT length.
It doesn't need to be perfect but I wouldn't ride it if it was shit.
* cough *
Fat Marin
built an old trek frame got off ebay into a dropbar hybrid/adventure/gravel/cx bike - suspect was of the age that had never seen a suspension fork and geometry similar to a touring frame - was marked as made in the USA! no discs - planet x cx fork on the front and frogleggee cantis with an adaptor on the back to work with 700c wheels - actually a very comfy ride - as well as local bridleways did a few multiday road rides typically 80-90miles/day - if it had disks would still be riding it
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I have been toying with just this idea, got an old kona frames, essentially worthless to anyone else. I really like it but want to put a disc mount on use a cheap 29er wheeset, Cx tyres and drops run it 1xN as poor man's Cx bike/offroad tourer/bikepacking machine.
doublepost
700x35 is not all that different diameter to 26x2.35 so handling should be fine.
the 3cm longer frame shouldn't be all that big a problem as to quicken up the steering i'd be wanting to run a shorter stem than usual anyway(I'm presuming the mtb has a slacker HA by a couple of deg.)
I have an orange P7 frame, with the F8 rigid fork.
it takes 700x35 no problem, head/seat tube angle doesnt change, bb height may be slightly higher.
i think the main potential issue if you are changing to drops is top tube length.
I'm not saying it changes.
I'm saying mtb frames usually have slacker H/A than CX frames.
Gary Extreme read the op it's a 29er frame not CX.
I'll show you it* if you ever come out riding with me again.
*the frame. Not THAT!
Yes. Cx first-timer racing a singlespeed steel 26" with CX Pro tyres (tubeless). And I beat a lot of people on nicer, bigger-wheeled, carbon bikes too. Forks are 700c disk, they didn't change the geometry or handling at all. Bars are Soma Sparrow and the stem is a 100 mm. This is a 19" Genesis, so the TT is quite long. Looking to place Top 10 in the regionals next season and debating the use of gears to do so.
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Tyre choice is the biggest issue. There isn't a choice.
And a side on view in worse conditions, so you can see the TT length
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OP is pretty incoherent and the title says 26er. 😕
ie. what does this *(CF the 29er I use as a cx bike)* mean?
If keeping the geometry as the manufacturer intended is of importance to you, you'd be better using a 26" frame with 700 wheels and CX tyres than using a 29er frame with CX tyres IMO
Post on the FB group. I ride most days or nights. What do you ride?
CF means "compared to".
I like how the 29er rides as a CX, no idea if cx frames have lower or higher BBs, I'll have a look.
I'm already running a 7cm stem on the 29er I think, 4cm on the 26er would be a bit daft, could move the saddle forward I suppose.
Just gotta try it I guess...
As proven in Tired's pics, it's already a bit daft. Go 50mm stem rather than moving the saddle.. plenty cheap ones around.
I put drops on a Dave Yates Diabolo once. I hated it, and have felt guilty ever since for doing that to such a classic MTB. Overall, it was too long in the TT and too low for my liking.
CF means "compared to"
No, cf. means "compared to" CF is just 2 random upper case letters
Don't move the saddle, swap bars. Reach on my bike is the same as my road bike. But the bars meant I needed a 100 mm stem. Bars are a take on drops, so that's why the stem is extended. Mine are the narrowest 47 cm bars:
I would have the same reach and stack on a 700c cross bike, if I had one. EVERYONE marvels at the mud clearance, even if the looks are unconventional.

TiRed its not for racing and it MUST have drops.
I didn't know cf couldn't be capitalised. Pedantry-tastic!
Not to be stupid, but is it acutally N-1 if youve built a bike up?
Or are you planning to swap back and forth between normal set-up and cx, in which case why not just ride it as a normal bike with skinny tyres?
