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Hi,
Looks like finally I'll be able to upgrade shock on my 2014 Wythe T129.
Shock is one of the few things - apart of the frame - that were in the original set-up. Even after 4 years I'm still not sure why Whyte can't sell frameset only. In case of whole bike you are of course on the mercy of their accounting department.
But that is not main question.
Planning to go either CCDB Air in line or Monarch Plus. Original shock is Monarch RT3.
Now-then... Do I need to replace mounting hardware? Is that advisable? Or just good, but not essential practice?
I suppose that mounting hardware for different shocks might not be inter changeable?
Cheers!
I.
If you stay RS (or any other with a 12.7mm), then you can keep the mounting hardware but you will need new bushing (your shock may come with them, depending on supplier).
RS 12.7mm bushing
https://www.tftuned.com/tech-help/71-mount-kits-and-bushings-for-rear-shocks-a-guide
It probably wouldn't hurt to get new mounting hardware after 4 years TBH, but you normally wait until you change the bushing and still have movement in your shock mounts.
CCDB details.. which are a bit weird, but suggest 14.7mm bushings for post 2012 shocks
https://www.tftuned.com/shock-mount-hardware/eyelet-bushings/cane-creek-bushings/c206
You'll also need new mounting hardware, along with bushing, for this shock.
TF Tuned will have you covered on the hardware situation. Speak to them.
Not familiar with that frame, so make sure clearance is ok (particularly with piggyback shocks, but CCDB Inline's are chunkier than your average RS inline).
If you're replacing with a Rockshox, make sure you know the tune of your current shock (should be printed somewhere on the shock, if not Whyte will know). You will need to replace like for like otherwise you might struggle to set the bike up properly. CCDBs don't have a tune as they are adjustable externally.
Finally - and I might be a bit late - but have a clear understanding of what you're trying to achieve, otherwise you're chucking a load of money at something which may bring limited benefit. Different shocks can give a bike a different character - which can be better of worse depending on what the original goal was. Last year I put a Pushed Float X on a Transition Scout instead of the stock Monarch RT3, which turned it from a very playful trail bike which struggled a bit with long descents and proper lumpy tech into something with a lot more grip and better performance for tech/alpine riding. But at the expense of a bit of that playfulness IMO - part of that was coming from how easy it was to break traction at the rear I think. That was the intention, so I was happy. But since buying a big enduro bike to complement it, I've gone back to the Monarch.
FWIW a Monarch Plus will feel and perform very similarly to the RT3, except for the higher oil volume which will assist with long descending, which only exists in a handful of places in the UK.
wouldn't bother replacing an RT3 with the monarch plus.
Finally – and I might be a bit late – but have a clear understanding of what you’re trying to achieve, otherwise you’re chucking a load of money at something which may bring limited benefit. Different shocks can give a bike a different character – which can be better of worse depending on what the original goal was. Last year I put a Pushed Float X on a Transition Scout instead of the stock Monarch RT3, which turned it from a very playful trail bike which struggled a bit with long descents and proper lumpy tech into something with a lot more grip and better performance for tech/alpine riding. But at the expense of a bit of that playfulness IMO – part of that was coming from how easy it was to break traction at the rear I think. That was the intention, so I was happy. But since buying a big enduro bike to complement it, I’ve gone back to the Monarch.
Second this.
Same here replacing a basic Fox DPS performance on an E29 with an Ohlins STX - made it a proper enduro bike and much more capable, but removed the poppy, lively feel that had won me over. Gone to a Monarch Plus as a kind of happy medium now - as I also have a dedicated "big bike".
I had a Process 111 with a Monarch RT3 and never felt the need to change it, short travel bikes don't seem to need such fancy shocks as 140mm+ frames IME.
Thanks Chaps!
Some valid points there.
Whyte is my second full suss bike. Before I had old (probably 2004 or around, as it wa
s HL not Faux Bar) Turner 5Spot. I loved plushness of that bike. Proper Magic Carpet experience.
Whyte is HL as well, but it is lacking this feeling I recollect from Turner.
Had a quite a bit of play with Monarch and wasn't able to achieve anything like that. Turner had Fox RP3 BTW.
So... Not made purchase as yet, fully aware of factory tuning - Wythe is L3/L, but after contacting guys they suggested M/L if unable to obtain L3/L.
Cheers!
I.
The T129 doesn’t have the best overall suspension of Whyte’s full suspension bikes, it’s pretty well documented in review that the back end could never really keep up with the front and the geometry. The T130 and newer S150/G160/G170 are better in this regard. Rather than buying a new shock, I’d perhaps look at getting the Monarch tuned by TF for similar, might get better results than simply switching shocks.
Hi,
Yes, I read some opinions, that it is not the best possible suspension design.
Good call with custom tuning of existing shock, especially it is due to be serviced anyways.
Cheers!
I.