[Closed] Upgrades for heavier rider

best upgrade for a heavy rider is wider rims. built on suitable wheels.

21 stone at present.

How are your brakes? Bigger rotors?

Thank you for your reply.

What benefit have you found with the change of rims? I am about to change to tubeless. Looking increasing the rear tyre width from 29x2.25.

Brakes seems fine and hold well and stop sharpe when needed. The brake set is Shimano MT201 Disc 180/F and 160/R mm SM-RT10 CL Rotor.

I've not had any experience of running an oval ring. Heard mixed reports but as it's a relatively cheap upgrade it's worth a punt so you can make your own mind up.

I have just read up that they hold chain tension far better. And given the situation with the chain earlier in the lowest gear. Hoping that will improve that for hill climbs.

Thank you for your help

Custom suspension tune via the likes of J-Tech/Flotec/TF Tuned et al. Gets the bike setup and dialed just so for you and not the 'average' 10 stone racing snake they come out of the factory's for.

tbh, if you don't know what do upgrade, don't upgrade anything, just go out ride the bike and then after time, you'll learn what you don't like about it.

Then ask about how to make that aspect of the bike better. Then consider upgrading.

There's no point in upgrading for the sake of it.

Thank you all for the pointers when looking at my post.

Seosamh77 thats what the post was for. In regards of a chainring to provide further tension. Given the crunching sound coming from the rear when climbing this even. It almost sounded like it was changing gear only doing it when using the 50 tooth cog.

I don't get how an oval chainring will affect anything at the back?

Describe the crunching more? (your service should fix that, mind, or at least advise you.)

ps I'm heavier than you, you don't really need anything specific, bikes are very strong these days.

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I too am struggling to work out how a nea chainring with sort the issue out?

Firstly I'd diagnose what the issue is. Could be worn chain, B screw tension, bent mech hanger, cable tension, rear freehub bearings on the way out and allowing the cassette to twist a tiny bit, loose mech bolt or general poorly set up gears

If the chain is hanging onto the chainring and causing chain suck, then yes, it's worth putting a new one on, but to sort an issue at the rear that's just noise and you dont say what's causing it... then no.

Fox 36s - stif, light, reliable, long travelled. Cope well with my 102kg. Cope even better when custom tuned.
Hope v4s - stop me as if I wasn’t there. All day long.

Thank you both.

I am not saying the chainring would defiantly fix this. Following after the ride I have read up that a possible cause would be chain tension and read the chainring can improve this. I am not that knowledgeable with this stuff hence posting here. Given the sounds being similar to changing gear and it being new as of July. I put this down to my weight.

In addition to this it's the first time for me to do a climb of that gradient.

The sound was happening asi applied pressure down through the pedals.

Jekkyl lol.

That's what got me in this shape.

Sounds like you just need to take it in for it's first service and the gears need indexing. (Basically, ask them to check the indexing, hanger alignment etc. And since you are heavier, get them to check/re-tension your wheels(this will need done anyhow, but it's more important you get it done since you're a bit heavier too(and regularly check yourself for loose spokes going forward). Also, just mention any other niggles you have, be specific.))

So, service the bike first then figure out upgrades, after learning more about your bike, is my advice.

Biggest upgrade to your bike would be for you to binge watch GMBN tech(not the only source you should use, have a gander at other sites, https://www.sheldonbrown.com/ being one) and start learning about how to fix your own bike.

Still reckon you don't need upgrades, yet. You need to understand more first, upgrade when you understand the benefits you'll get. (for example. things like drivetrain, chainring, cassette, chain are basically disposible parts of your bike, so there's no sense in upgrading them until they are worn.)

But after saying all that, if I was going to upgrade your bike, I'd be investating tyres firstly(personal to you tbh, and depends on what you want, stock may be fine, but you might want faster rolling, or more grippy for example.), suspension next(defo first big upgrade on that bike), and brakes(maybe prioritise this more if you feel you are underpowered, if not wouldn't worry about it.)

It almost sounded like it was changing gear only doing it when using the 50 tooth cog.

btw, That sounds like b-tension screw tbh.

You're not that heavy, I was 105kg, over a year down to 97kg.

If the fork is set up ok, I'd suggest it's a maintenance/set up /wear issue.

What condition is the chain and cassette in?

Thank you that clears it up more for me. I will check out that website and YouTube channel.

Mattyfez. Everything appears in good nick to me. No dents, buckles, worn or chipped teeth.

Given the sounds being similar to changing gear and it being new as of July. I put this down to my weight.

It was new in July? Is this on a new bike or just new drivetrain components?

Sounds like normal gear indexing adjustment, very normal with a new setup as things settle in. 5 min job.

Hello there, welcome to the forum mate.

Having skim read above,yeah, not something to think of in regard to curing the gear issue.

I run oval rings due to bad knees but it won't remedy what is likely to be a cheap fix indexing issue or similar. It's not a remedial "fix", it's just an alternatives drive train option for those that like them.

Take her in for a service and other than components that NEED upgrading as diagnosed from riding (poor braking due to your stated increased weight for instance) just use it till bits wear out and replace as you wish with "better parts".👍

Your not that heavy to be honest anyway. I'm heavier than you at the moment as I am entering my Winter Plumage season.😁

The first upgrades I always consider are pedals , handgrips & tyres , even on pricey bikes they can be a bit pony , as its an easy place for manufacturers  to cut costs while they dazzle you with the XT mech & fox shock etc..

often improves comfort and control no end

You're not particularly heavy, but as mentioned before, the areas i'd first look at are:

1st: Suspension tune (although i'm not sure how much you CAN tune the Rock Shox 30 Silver TK Solo Air that comes on your bike)
2nd: wider rims and stronger sidewall tyres. These make quite a difference to my 18stone when getting the right tyre pressure without over inflating, and loosing traction.
3rd: Only when you've made the first two adjustments, and are finding yourself going MUCH faster than you did before will you need better front brake maybe. 4 Pot calipers make quite a difference IMHO.

These upgrades will enhance your riding (a bit) but not enough to spend loads on.
Most of the other components are plenty strong enough, unless you're dropping big gaps, or jumping.

Thank you all for the pointers. Lots of things to consider in the future. But for now I have booked it in for a full service and check over and ordered new grips.

Thanks again

As many others have said, you really aren't that heavy. I am. The main upgrades that have helped me are bigger rotors on my brakes and either custom tuning my rear shock (Fox DPX2 on one bike) or using a Cane Creek DBAir rear shock (on my second bike). The custom tune was a proper revelation and turned a disappointing shock into something that is almost as good as the Cane Creek.

If you’re a lighter or heavier rider then custom shock and fork tunes will make a big difference - if not you’ll struggle to find a compromise that works both up and downhill. But an XC hardtail like the Scale is so much better at going up than down that I’d just make sure you’ve got enough air in the fork and the rebound slow enough but not too sluggish.