I've been asking this a bit recently but I'm still mulling it over.
Is it worth upgrading a few components on a basic Croix de Fer frame, given that whatever I do it's still going to be bloody heavy!?
I feel like I'd benefit from a 2x11 drivetrain, but also is the standard Alex rims Draw wheelset worth changing (I've seen a lot of recommendations for Hunt 4 Seasons recently.) I assume as they come as standard on the lowest spec CDF, then they must be considered a heavy wheelset? Just changing the supplied tyres was a revelation!
I only really ride for exercise and to literally just be out on the bike, but I also want it to be fun so if I can make the bike a more enjoyable thing to ride, it's worth it right?
But at what point does it become more sensible to buy a whole new bike, something like the Ribble CGR, given that at my current pricepoint option, that would also be the base spec! Decisions, decisions.
I wouldn’t change a base spec bike for another base spec bike.
I’d do, in order, tyres, contact points (bars and saddle)
Wheels, then if i was flush, things like a nice seatpost etc.
But don’t expect it to make a massive difference to weight, it’ll just make it nicer to look at/sit on.
Maybe a Carbon fork if yours has the steel one?
Wouldn't bother with 2x10 to 2x11 for the sake of that being an upgrade. You probably wouldnt get anything worthwhile. If that was a consequence of upgrading to hydros then maybe. Hugely expensive though.
Change things bug big you. Keep things that are working. Enjoy the rides.
Do you have appropriate cloths to ride in?
Yeah I've got clothes I'm comfortable riding in (although not a road helmet!)
It's 2x9 at the moment, there's some noticeable jumps across the cassette so I figured 2x11 might give me a nice spread.
The thing that bugs me is sometimes I feel like just the slightest breeze is enough to really hamper progress, the bike really does feel like it's weighted down. I guess it's probably alwsys going to feel like that though.
By far the best thing to spend money on is wheels and tyres, they make a huge difference.
fennel
Member
By far the best thing to spend money on is wheels and tyres, they make a huge difference.
So had anyone ever replaced Alexrim Draws and noticed a benefit? Those Hunt 4 seasons are at a nice price, I'm not going to go carbon or owt!
I do mainly road riding on knackered b-roads, but do venture onto occasional bridleways, occasional commute and toddler trailer pulling all on the same bike. I'm liking my 32c gravelkings so wouldn't want to go any narrower.
As above, wheels and tyres make a big difference. My CGR came with Mavic Aksiums (rattle quite a lot) and 40mm gravel tyres, and felt like riding through treacle.
I swapped them out for 28c Conti GP4000s, which made a massive difference to the effort required to get (and keep) moving. Now trying to justify switching out the wheels for Hunts.
Personally I'd suggest browsing around and check out some tyre and wheel weights. You'll probably find you could shave some weight from the wheels and tyres without going silly expensive - especially if you look at secondhand wheels. Or just buy the Hunts: even if you replace the bike you can keep the wheels for whatever you buy next.
Give it a whirl, see how you get on. If the bike feels better with that and you want to keep it, *then* think about upgrading the groupset/ drivetrain.
I had some 700c H+ Archetypes bulit with Sapim Race spokes and Pro2 Evo hubs for my CAADX. Made a huge difference when out the saddle, much stiffer, and nearly a kilo lighter than standard at 1700g. Surprisingly comfortable with 32mm Gatorskins. They now reside on my Longitude, with 2.35 Big Apples and are a lot more sprightly than 27.5x2.8 OEM set up
I upgraded the wheels on my Pickenflick and it made a big difference in feel (and speed). With the new wheels (Hunts) and tubeless tyres, I saved around 500/600g in weight.
Depending what tyres you have, there might be a faster rolling option which will make it feel faster.
Think the cdf is a good (if heavy) frame, but as others have said, no point swapping out for another base spec bike.
So, upgrade some key bits as you go along, then if money allows, you can always upgrade the frame at a later stage.
I think there can also be some quick wins in surprising and cheap ways. I chanced upon another seatpost in my parts bin (think I'd picked it up for a tenner for a project that then didn't happen), it was just a cheap alloy jobby but significantly lighter than the stock seatpost (kitchen scales had it at 180g lighter). Cutting off the excess length saved another 40g or so. So quite by chance, I shaved nearly a quarter of a kilo for a tenner. You can get some good bargains on the Classifieds here, eBay, local cycling clubs buy & sell pages etc, so upgrading need not be too expensive if you're willing to go second hand.
So had anyone ever replaced Alexrim Draws and noticed a benefit?
Draw 1.9s are ~450g so you'll not save much unless you go narrower or carbon.
Not sure what the CdF frame weighs these days but 4.75-5lbs is normal for a crmo frame like this if it's not made from very thin wall or slim (flexible) tubes. It's just not a light bike format really. My current all-road steel frame is 4.8lbs and I'm fine with it, rides really well and saving 8oz makes no odds.
As said above, wheels and tyres is the place you'll feel most benefit, but if you've already changed for gravelkings you've probably got half of the benefit already. I imagine the stock tyres were over 500g each, and the Gravelking 32mm version are 300g or less I think.
What would make a big difference would be some lighter wheels and going tubeless. The gravelking tyres you have should be fine tubeless up to 60psi even if they don't say 'TLC' on them (panaracer customer service told me this themselves). But 60psi is damn high for me even with 32mm tyres.
Straight steerer carbon forks are hard to find, especially with a 50mm rake that the CDF has. But these forks could also be worth a look, though they'd demand a front wheel with 12mm axle:
https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/frames-forks-c6/rigid-forks-c51/fx-3-disc-carbon-fork-p20757
(ah, I notice they're jumped up in price £50 since I nearly bought a set...)
I've just spent £500 upgrading mine and now it's a great bike and making all my riding better. I took out the back wheel and fixed it to an Elite Direto.
I went 1x10 with carbon cranks, fitted the Genesis carbon forks, upgraded to Pro 4 evo/Pacenti wheels and swapped nearly all the bolts for Stan titaniums (had a load spare from a trials bike and once I'd started I thought I may as well finish it).
Absolutely love my CdF, it's just got better amd better.
Will eventually do the tyre and go tubeless.
Hope you dont mind me getting in on this OP. I have a CDF from 2014 (i think) straight steerer 1 1/8th steel fork.
I really like it, apart from the qr rear which is a pain. But yes.... upgrades 🙂
I have seen a carbon fork for it. weight is 875 gms, which i think is failry heavy? Any idea roughty how much the original steel fork weighs?
i also have some bontrager wheels (alu) and finishing kit SSR model.
I'm fine with the tyre clearence, currently have 35c gravel kings on it.
Is it worth upgrading anything first? I could get the carbon fork , but it would be investing in a QR fork so if i then upgraded the wheels down the line, they would be QR and appropriate width for a 35c tyte / narrow clearance frame. but i suppose hunt and the like, you can convert the hubs no?
or not bother...? cheers!
I have seen a carbon fork for it. weight is 875 gms, which i think is fairly heavy? Any idea roughty how much the original steel fork weighs?
I seem to remember it weighs just over 1kg, 1.1kg max. Doesn't sound like those forks will save you much weight.
The Brother Kelper forks are a bit lighter at 750grams.
Sounds like quality/light tyres will help, wheels will too but only if they are lighter, esp at teh rim. Won't be any faster, just feel it.
