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The crown on my forks is a bit worn causing a LOT of loud creaking
It's definately the fork not the headset because I've tried 2 headsets and the current one is a brand new Cane Creek 110. I can push the crown race on with my fingers
Now, I'm not going to spend much if any money on this so does anyone have a good bodge that might work? I don't think a Coke can shim will work, unless anyone knows better?
Edit: Loctite Bearing Fit, No 641 and Halfords do there own brand as well.
What's that? Never heard of it. 🙂
loctite or araldite the crown race on.
I've used coke can shim.
I've also used 'proper' shim material.
Both seemed to work.
Is the crown race not gripping on the steerer tube?
the 3 things that spring to mind if this is your problem would be
1 - Wrap steerer in a couple of rounds of plumbers tape, might pack it out enough to get a soilid grip.
2 - Loctite 741 or some such for securing bearings [although that ninja edit by Kingtut may sugest he thought of it first]
3- Get a custom crown race fabricated with a tighter tolerance
Ahh. Might be worth trying Coke can then.
To be fair the whole bike is buggered. 5 days in Tenerife seemed to take its toll 🙁
a small punch to knurl the surface works well also ....
I don't think pushing the crown race on with your fingers is indicative of anything bad, there are plenty of split races out there where that's easily possible. What do you think is worn, the horizontal face on the crown?
Split races go with sealed bearing races. When you pre-load the bearings they squeeze the split ring onto the steerer. This is a possible solution to PP's dilemma.
I have used the bearing-lock and it worked well. Remember to build the fork into the frame with the adhesive and then leave it to go off before you ride it.
To be fair the whole bike is buggered. 5 days in Tenerife seemed to take its toll
What are you trying to say about our trails PP ? 😉
LOL!
The forks were a bit creaky before I came out, they just got worse. And if course the shock gave all its damping away. And there's some more dents on the downtube. Its feeling decidedly secondhand. The wheels I built are still perfect though. 🙂
You are sure this is causing the creaking? Not had that before.
Could you make a cut in the crown race? assuming you are using bearing inserts with a taper, it might squeeze the crown race onto the steerer when you load up the bearings.
I have an FSA orbit headset (SH) that came with a home-cut crown race and it works well.
OK, time to do the job now....
Loctite 241 or Loctite 270?
Opinions please..! 😀
Loctite 241 doesn't sound strong enough but might be an option to try first, if you don't mind having to come back and do it again.
Loctite 270 is designed for the permanent locking.. are you going to want to change the crown race in the future
Loctite 271 was going to be my suggestion but the heat required to remove may cause other issues?
EDIT: AS I'm up to internet dodgyness I cant get to the loctite site, but the suggestion above for the bearing fit (6 or 741) sounds like something worth investigating, as bearing do have to be removed at some point.
Loctite 270 is designed for the permanent locking.. are you going to want to change the crown race in the future
On a Cane Creek 110 headset, I'd rather hope not, no!
I believe you have your answer then 😀
Ahh, 641 looks closer. 241 came op on a Google search, but it's a thread lock really, not a bearing fit. 270 is a thread lock too, apparently?
From the Loctite site, the 2.. series are thread locks and the 6.. series are bearing fits....
http://www.loctite.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_uke/hs.xsl/your-solution-4371.htm
Ore even better 660 -
There's cheap 660 on Ebay. I'll try that!