[Closed] Two questions about road disc bikes

The RS-505 on my Cube seem to add extra reach to the hoods because of their design, but despite my girly hands of ~20cm cuff-middle fingetip, I've been fine. But then the Attain range hardly have as aero geometry.
I've not seen the newer Tiagra 405s/ 105 7020/ Ultegra 8020 etc. in the flesh, but they are supposed to place hoods in a more conventional position to the bars.

It depends on brand and how wide the tyres are you want to run. They aren't perfect, but Crudguard MkIIIs can usually cope with 28mm.
I bought a pair of the Cube proprietary Attain disc guards when the revised model came out ~18 months ago, but like many at the time, my set did not come with the correct length M5 bolt (needs ~25mm, supplied 15mm which had no chance) for the seat stay bridge!

1. Nope, actually can give an extra hand position

2. SKS Race Blades. Not a full length guard but on and off in minutes (id leave something wrapped around your stays in readiness though, don’t want them running the paint/metal/carbon away!)

What mashr said

Standard Race Blades are £16 if you order before midnight tonight from PX with SPRINGFWD20... But blurb they have says max 23mm tyre. XL version from elsewhere might be answer for many these days on wider tyres.

Raceblades are OK at keeping water off your back, but useless at everything else. Theyre not long enough to protect the person behind you, and dont go forward enough to keep spray off your face and from being dumped on your legs. Spend a bit more and get something that goes from the BB right back round 180deg of the wheel.

Which 180degrees guards can quickly be on/off and around dosc calipers though?

I have some Raceblades, just wondered if there was something quicker to fit which took advantage of the space freed up by disc brakes.

Where that question was coming from, was wondering if it might be feasible to go from a summer and winter bike (latter with full guards) to a single bike with discs.

I rarely use the winter bike now TBH, tend to go for a run instead.

1. Those lever hoods on the Shimano brakes look massive and protruding, is that an issue when riding for those with smaller hands? I’m used to Ultegra 6800.

I've just fitted some (secondhand) BR-785 levers to my Amazon in place of the 6700s that were on. Can't say I've noticed any issue (and I have smallish hands).

1. Those lever hoods on the Shimano brakes look massive and protruding, is that an issue when riding for those with smaller hands? I’m used to Ultegra 6800.

The old BR505/ 405 levers are pretty ugly,but the other levers are fine. I have R7000 levers and find them pretty similar to my old 5800 stis.

There is a Shimano ST-R7025 lever, designed for smaller hands.

Or the GRX levers are supposed to allow easier reach from the hoods.

1 As per CraigW there are levers for smaller hands available

2 Once you've set them up (if you have guard bosses) most mudguards will be 3-4 bolts on/off. I've a set of chromoplastics that have lasted a long time, LH front stays bent to fit around the caliper - you can take this approach for most mount/caliper positions F&R. Once they're bent and the stays set up, just bolt them on when required.*

* I cannot be bothered doing this, they will stay on, and when I make the bike a bit more versatile, I'll find tyres that can fit in the guards.

Once you’ve set them up (if you have guard bosses) most mudguards will be 3-4 bolts on/off. I’ve a set of chromoplastics that have lasted a long time, LH front stays bent to fit around the caliper – you can take this approach for most mount/caliper positions F&R. Once they’re bent and the stays set up, just bolt them on when required.*

* I cannot be bothered doing this, they will stay on, and when I make the bike a bit more versatile, I’ll find tyres that can fit in the guards.

+1

Getting full length guards on and off under canti brakes was never a problem, just leave all the spacers etc in the right place and it's 5-10 minutes work. The guards on my cross bike didn't interfere the the calipers either (the mounts were towards the rear of the dropout and the fork ones above the caliper mounts).

Just get well fitting guards that don't rattle and leave them on for ~6 months. I've got Raceblade Longs (rim brakes on my "nice" road bike) which are an OK compromise with 23-25mm tires as they go all the way back and extend past the fork crown at the front. But don't cover the BB/front mech, so you get wet feet. My commuter has M-part primoplastics and apart from when trying to hang it up by the front wheel I never notice them.

There's actually been a windtunnel test that suggested they're more aero.......

I have a third question now.

Those of you who value going fast on your road bikes, what do you see as the optimum tyre width?

I'm mostly happy on my current 25c, but I'm reasonably sure 28c will be an improvement for me.

Some bikes I'm considering are limited to 28, and may be my best value choice. Is it diminishing returns at 30c and bigger? Do you start to lose speed in favour of comfort?

More interested in subjective experience than scientific tests, IYKWIM.

I don't feel that I'm any slower on my 32mm tyres than on my 28mm tyres. Strava seems to support this theory as there's nothing between my average speeds across segments. What is better is the feel. I can run my 32s at 55 front and 60 rear and the ride is sublime on the rough roads around where I live.

I was using 23s and happened to have some 28s handy so thought I'd just see if they fitted. They did and I've left them on. They are GP4Seasons so not the fastest rolling tyre but I can't honestly say they've affected my speed (I don't compete though). I quite fancy a 28 in a faster tyre now but I'm very unlikely to ever go back to a 23 or a 25.

That's interesting Daffy. I must admit 32 seems massive to me but I saw the new Defy comes with them as stock.

The roads round here are rough-ish, loads of chip & seal and plenty of potholes - but I'd expect 28s would feel like a magic carpet compared to my 25s anyway. Did you find 28s comfy enough?

I quite fancy a 28 in a faster tyre now but I’m very unlikely to ever go back to a 23 or a 25.

Thanks for that. I'm definitely looking 28 minimum, it's just whether to maybe spend a bit more for a bike that can take up to 32 later if I wanted it to.

I've got a mix of 25mm and 28mm width tyres, across 3 different rim widths and 3 different bikes. I don't really notice (or see on Strava) a difference in speed between them. Any difference I feel is more to do with the wheelset or bike geometry.

Nobody else in the fast group at my club runs wide tyres either though, and if there was gains to be had they would all be doing it :p

Nobody else in the fast group at my club runs wide tyres either though, and if there was gains to be had they would all be doing it :p

I should clarify, I don't race or even compete with pals, it's just that the main thing I like about road biking is going fast and that effortless feeling when you;re flying along.

The reason for changing bikes is partly comfort and partly N+1, if I'm honest.

I've had a go on a Ribble ebike that had wide rims and Continental 32mm tyres on, they were massive! Probably really comfy, and doesn't really affect you on an ebike, but I can't believe they aren't more draggy when you are pedalling under your own steam.

The reason for changing bikes is partly comfort and partly N+1, if I’m honest.

Of course, being comfortable can increase overall speed on longer and multi-day rides.

The differences between tyre widths are negligible.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/grand-prix-5000-comparison

Tyres larger than 28mm don't feel as quick or responsive, which is worth more than a couple of watts IMO.