You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
....should I be worried about the rest?
Alloy nipples (really Specialized?) corroded and snapped at the head / eyelet level.
/insert giggling minion here.
Yes. Sounds like they've been in service a while and are fatiguing.
Check the thread engagement, too. If the spoke doesn't go much past the point where the shaft meets the head (more tea, vicar?) of the nipple then it was a recipe for early failure from the outset. But even so, from your description of the general condition, it sounds like they'll be queuing up to fail now.
I had the same problem, and on closer inspection found a few more going the same way. I rebuilt the wheels with brass nipples and vowed to never use alloy again.
It's a 2010 OE wheel, I'm worried the rear will be the same.
The rim (cough) seems solid and true mind.
Time to learn the art of wheel building.
Yes, likely to continue. You can replace them all at once or one by one.
If the rest of the wheel is fine I would de tension and replace them all with brass.
Funny, I've got my sister's bike in the garage (probably a similar vintage Specialized) with two failed nipples.
Was just thinking, do I bite the bullet and replace them all, or just give her a box of nipples and teach her how to replace them one by one...
No need for a full rebuild. Just slacken them off an replace one at a time. If you put them on carefully and even then you usually don't need to do much truing. I normally put them on so you can see a couple of threads, then go round and give each a full turn, keep repeating until it starts to get vaguely tight, drop to a half turn, repeat until fairly tight then do the final true. Easy job (as long as the alloy ones come off OK)
I had a set of fatbike wheels built up by slam69 and hadn't spotted that they use alloy nipples by default. After the third one failed (two on consecutive rides) I just replaced the lot with brass ones. Alloy nipples on a fatbike that gets used on the odd beach (salt water) is bonkers, but I'm not a fan of them on any mountain bike wheels to be honest.
alloy nipples (really Specialized?) corroded and snapped at the head / eyelet
Fairly common on SBC bikes. Both alloy nipples AND breaking them. Personally, before they all break or I'd spend an hour replacing them all with brass ones
It's one of those things, they're probably cheaper, they're lighter, and for most people they'll be fine.
FWIW I would only use alloy if I was making a set of race only wheels up, and as above would make sure the shaft penetrates far enough.
Stress-corrosion cracking - one of the reasons why I don't use alloy nipples for normal wheel builds. Rebuild the wheel with brass and eliminate the problem now otherwise you'll just be chasing your tail.
Rebuild the wheel with brass and eliminate the problem now otherwise you’ll just be chasing your tail.
This - once they start going it just spreads. Trying to remove them from the spokes is often a pain too as they corrode on and end up breaking in half - you then have a rim full of nipple heads (mrs).
Same here. Bought some used maxlight wheels. Literally pumped up the tyre and a nipple just snapped and several others have gone subsequently. I'll be changing the lot to brass asap as dont want a ride ruined.
Never had this problem before in 20 odd years of riding bikes, wont be using alloy again.
but I’m not a fan of them on any mountain bike wheels to be honest.
Mine failed on my road bike!
Had a set of Roval wheels do the similar, nipples snapped & corroded to threads, spokes therefore had to b replaced. A local SPECIALIZED dealer could not manage to get the correct length spokes from specialized & after waiting around 5 weeks and missing out on several long planned rides I ditched the wheels for a set of Hope/Stans Flow EX. If you get them repaired I'd go for brass nipples & do the lot, if a couple have gone the rest won't be far behind
Got the same issue with rovals. .corroded on nipples are an absolute arse to remove as the spoke itself spins in the hub... anybody got tips for holding the spokes as pliers ain't up to the job?...sorry for slight hijack!
pliers wrapped in a couple of layers of gaffer tape.
give the nipples a good soak in penetrating oil at both ends a day or so before you start.
Cheers bud. ... Will give that a go!
Got the same issue with rovals. .corroded on nipples are an absolute arse to remove as the spoke itself spins in the hub… anybody got tips for holding the spokes as pliers ain’t up to the job?…sorry for slight hijack!
A small pair Knipex Pliers Wrench are my current favourite. Some people like using a third hand cable puller. I have used pliers wrapped in tape before with varying degrees of success. There is a Roval spoke tool, but I would imagine its rather expensive. Old pair of needle nose pliers cut off and use the smooth section just before the pivot gives you a fast high leverage clamp, you can grind grooves in it to match the spoke if needed.