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Following from my last thread, I ended up buying an Elite Zumo (wheel off) turbo.
Set it all up, using 135mm skewer - I cannot get the rear mech to align properly. the merest hint of the clamp being shut and it moves the mech far enough inward that I cannot get the smallest cog on the cassette.
I've fiddled - tried different clamping pressures, on and off a few times. Tried with and without spacers on the freehub before you put the cassette on (they recommend 2 spacers...any any less, there is play in the cassette)
It's just not happening. Seems I may not be alone either as have seen instances of this on their message boards but with very little response from Elite (other than try fiddling with spacers).
It works, just minus the top end. But for £400 I really hoped it would "just work".
Anyone else experienced this, or what may cause it....and anything simple I may be overlooking!?
Otherwise it feels a good bit of kit.
Wheel back on the bike and the gears all work a dream. I don't want to start fettling with the set up depending on whether the bike is on wheels or on the turbo.
It's close to going back to the shop....please help!
Might have to adjust your limit screws by sound of it.
That or a bent mech hanger, or check the size of your spacers. Should be approx 1.85mm total if youre running 8-10 speed and its an 11 speed compatible hub.
So, assuming the cassette you've fitted to the turbo is correct, you need to either space the cassette outwards, so the smallest cog sits further out. Or you need to find a way of making the mech sit closer to the cassette, the obvious way of doing that is simply to tweak the stops so the mech can move slightly further outboard and, presumably, limit it so it can't shift over the top of the biggest cog at the other end.
I'm guessing you can't fit a narrower spacer on the end of the trainer axle? If it does have plug-in spacers like a Kickr, are you sure you have them the correct way round? If you've accidentally fitted a longer one on the driveside - ie: got the wrong spacer on the wrong side - that would knock things out of kilter. I don't mean the spacers on the freehub body, I mean whatever adaptors into the trainer's axle and rest against the drop-outs. I don't even know if that's possible, but it's worth a check just in case.
Failing that, I'd be tweaking the stops carefully and making a note o exactly how many turns for straightforward realignment with the wheel.
Are you using a MTB on it then with a small-ish chainring? Wouldn't be any call for the small cog with a road drivetrain on a smart turbo.
Realise it doesn't help with the question as asked, but if you're planning on using any training or game software that will control resistance you'll prob find you're in the middle of the block by and large.
I've not tried the MTB on there. Is in use with the road bike.
So, assuming the cassette you’ve fitted to the turbo is correct, you need to either space the cassette outwards, so the smallest cog sits further out.
Standard SRAM road cassette, 10 speed.
’m guessing you can’t fit a narrower spacer on the end of the trainer axle? If it does have plug-in spacers like a Kickr, are you sure you have them the correct way round?
I did wonder that, but am pretty convinced that I have the right ones. I've got spacers for 135mm and 142mm included. And according to the diagram, I have them correctly positioned.
You could just throw an extra washer on there somewhere maybe?
If you may need to adjust your gears, I’ve had to do that on some turbos.
You could just throw an extra washer on there somewhere maybe?
I don't think he can given that the issue is the cassette is effectively too far to the left. You'd have to either find a way of spacing the cassette over towards the mech, which is limited by how much freehub is available and the depth of thread on the freehub locking nut. Or you'd have to fit a thinner spacer / insert on the driveside end of the axle. The elegant answer, I guess, would be to machine down a spare spacer and add an equivalent washer to the other side so the drop-outs aren't being crushed together.
But it would probably be easier to just adjust the stops on the mech. Good luck 🙂
I got a Zumo a couple of weeks ago and have my Saracen Hack on it with 9 speed sora. I tried 2 sapcers and I couldn't thread the bolt on so only run with 1. It did take some faff setting up with limit screws and the b screw is way off but it works well enough. Have you tried with 1 spacer?
You might have to make your own spacer (or ask Elite). It's not uncommon and most manufacturers are pretty good at posting out the exact bit you need for your bike.
If it's for Zwift it's probably worth doing (though you could adjust the trainer difficulty setting to minimise the need). If for TrainerRoad then it's not necessary because you can just use the gear with the best chainline / least noise.
I don’t think he can given that the issue is the cassette is effectively too far to the left.
I read it as the cassette is too far to the right, hence he can’t get into top gear. (I.e the 11/12t)
Sounds to me like too many spacers as it’s a SRAM 10spd cassette, they don’t need the extra spacer the shimano 10spd road ones do. See below table. I’d pop your wheel cassette off if it’s the same one and measure the spacer there assuming it’s an 11speed compatible freehub. Possibly your road wheel is spaced incorrectly and is only an issue now?
It’s all a bit of a compromise though, I can’t get mine to run right in the top gear - but I live with it cos i can’t be bothered to readjust it each time as I only have 1 road bike.
I read it as the cassette is too far to the right, hence he can’t get into top gear. (I.e the 11/12t)
Yes, I looked at an actual bike and realised I'm being quite stupid. Sorry about that 🙁
I’ll take one of the spacers out and have another go - although seemed to have play in the cassette last time I tried. But I’d had a beer!!
Thanks for all the advice.