Tubular Tyres - Wha...
 

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[Closed] Tubular Tyres - What training tyre recommendations + to tape or glue onto rims?

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I've just bought some carbon tubular wheels and looking to put some reasonable but not overly expensive tyres on them. What are a good training tyre for regular use? Tufo S33 pro's have been recommended to me as have Conti Giros, however these are the lower price range and I wonder whether they will last very long.
Anyone had any good experiences with particular tyres?

Also which is best, tub tape or gluing the tyres.

I want to make sure I have confidence in the tyres to use them regularly.


 
Posted : 29/08/2014 7:52 pm
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Conti Competitions?

They're what I used, rear did go flat on top, but never flatted, good grip, decent weight.

A friend rode on Conti Sprinters on his winter bike and swore by them.


 
Posted : 29/08/2014 7:57 pm
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I swear by Conti Sprinter Gatorskins. They aren't the lightest tub, most supple etc but they work for me. Smooth, good feel and feedback and confidence.
I also feel a bit cheeky saying that I bought a pair of 25mm's to try but the rear wouldn't clear the brake bridge on my Storck and I don't want to buy a set of winter tub wheels so if you wanted them they are unused and boxed, £55 posted.
Which frankly is a good deal I think.


 
Posted : 29/08/2014 8:00 pm
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Carbon tubs as training wheels?Okey dokey.


 
Posted : 29/08/2014 8:00 pm
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Carbon tubs as training wheels?Okey dokey.

Meh, why not, not like most of the Chinese offerings are expensive. I'm contemplating some, and I very rarely race!


 
Posted : 29/08/2014 8:03 pm
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I've have summer commuted on Tufo Hi Comp Carbon and Tufo tape. Use their sealant. Wheels are on the track bike now, but they are a nice ride, whatever people say.


 
Posted : 29/08/2014 8:05 pm
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@ Shedbrewed - I'll check out the Conti Gatorskins and let you know.

@ Rorschach - they aren't going to be training wheels, they will be my good wheel set but I want tyres that will give some longetivity not brittle race tyres that will be goosed after 300 miles!


 
Posted : 29/08/2014 8:09 pm
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I don't race, but I wanted some carbon wheels that I could use tubs with as they give a better ride than clinchers.
Wheels were a very good price (not Chinese carbon) so I want to make use of them. Tubs are just as user friendly as clinchers.


 
Posted : 29/08/2014 8:13 pm
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i used ENVE 45's with Vittoria Cora Evo CX over last/this winter - cut to obsolute shreds, never flatted while out - would go down over 48hrs though


 
Posted : 29/08/2014 8:27 pm
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just ordered some Gatorskin .

was using Giro but 3 punctures in 4 weeks gave me the hump .

I use them everyday to commute on carbon wheels .

I use tape Jantex for the front and rear in the summer but found that in the wet on the rear wheel they come unglued .


 
Posted : 29/08/2014 8:28 pm
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shedbrewed - i'll take those 25mm Conti Sprinter Gatorskins.
Can you email me some pics and confirm payment method etc. I'd prefer paypal if that's ok - i'll pay fees. My email is in profile.

Cheers


 
Posted : 29/08/2014 11:31 pm
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can't go wrong with gatorskins, they go flat after 1,000miles or so but i do run mine at 85/90psi, fit ok on 23mm wide rims and dura ace brakes


 
Posted : 30/08/2014 8:43 am
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Santaslittlehelper - Member

shedbrewed - i'll take those 25mm Conti Sprinter Gatorskins.
Can you email me some pics and confirm payment method etc. I'd prefer paypal if that's ok - i'll pay fees. My email is in profile.

Cheers

YGM, cheers.
To answer your other question, I tape road/TT tubs with Jantex tape and glue CX tubs.
Inflate tubs night before to stretch them.
Clean rim with acetone/nail varnish remover.
Run tape around rim from valve hole.
Deflate tubs.
Hold wheel against your belly. at 45' to you with the valve hole furthest away from your belly button.
Put the tub on at the valve hole and then keep pulling on the tub both sides.
Pull/stretch it on with both hands as you go round until it's about 5/6 done.
Flip the wheel around and push over the last bit with your thumbs.
Back to the valve hole and using a round dowel or thick round pencil/biro slip that between the tub and rim.
Peel back the back strip from the valve hole tape and pass it under the pen/rim gap so it's sticking out in front of the biro.
Steadily pull tape and roll biro around the rim, about an inch at a time. If you get carried away and pull too much it will snag on the tub and tear the backing strip.
Once all the strip is off, have a check of the alignment of the tub on the rim; hold it by the axle and spin slowly looking onto the edge of the rim.
Next pump the tub up and check alignment again. Tweak if necessary.
If you're happy, then deflate the tub and roll it against something like a broom handle or step on the floor to push the rub into the rim.
Pump back up to max pressure and leave for tape to bond.
Deflate to riding pressure and you're away


 
Posted : 30/08/2014 8:55 am
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can't go wrong with gatorskins, they go flat after 1,000miles or so

Assume you mean the carcass goes flat, rather than they lose air? Why do they do that? I was surprised when my Competitions did it - I use Fusion 3 clinchers, and they go many thousand miles without wear, I'm surprised that a trainer tub touted for its longevity goes flat in what would be 6 weeks or so of modest riding?


 
Posted : 30/08/2014 8:58 am
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sorry nick, yes i meant the tread wore flat, I've yet to puncture them, they would have lasted a few more miles but i needed to take it off so i thought easier to replace. I run lower pressures so i don't think that helps wear but makes them more comfortable.

Must say i've been impressed by the braking performance of my light bicycle tubs, i think they could be used all year round, but they would chew through brake pads, been using swisstop blackprince


 
Posted : 30/08/2014 9:13 am
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That's good to know, although my bank balance may disagree!

My Competitions were the same though - didn't puncture, but there was a marked ridge on the rear one surprisingly fast. I guess it's the suppleness of the carcass on a tub?


 
Posted : 30/08/2014 9:15 am
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just got my 25mm Gatorskin tubs and the clearance is really minimum with the frame . 2 or 3mm at best .

is that ok ?

frame is a chinese FR320


 
Posted : 02/09/2014 9:34 pm
 tlr
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I've got about 12,000km on my front tub, a Conti Competition, and am on my 3rd rear in that distance. Sounds ridiculous I know, but it's true. The bloody thing is perishing rather than wearing out. You can still see the dimple tread on it. Dunno if it's really old stock that has 'cured' well or something.

Oh, and they are taped on.

I've got the Giro tubs on an old steel bike, they seem ok, but the valve core isn't removable, and the valve makes the tyre sit a bit out of the rim well if you see what I mean. I just bought them because I wanted gum wall.


 
Posted : 02/09/2014 10:38 pm
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I hate riding with people with taped on tubs.

Invariably they struggle to change the tub without the tape coming off with the tire w they puncture.

Much prefer the glued on tub with a pre glued tub for spare.

I use conti sprinters glued and only for tt so they burst im walking home anyway.


 
Posted : 02/09/2014 10:53 pm
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I used to put tubs on with tape as I always assumed it was easier, but last time I fitted some I used glue and it was a lot easier than I thought. Won't be using tape again (not that I fit tubs much as they're only on my TT bike - that was a couple of years ago!)

Don't really see the point in cheap "training" tubs - if you're going to all that trouble you might as well have something nice.

Tubs are just as user friendly as clinchers.

Really? You know that having never used tubs and asking about how to fit them? Certainly not my experience - a lot more hassle.


 
Posted : 02/09/2014 11:52 pm

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