What are you using? Always had muc off valves and sealant which seemed to have been fine.
But need new sealant and valves for new wheels. Stick with the same or is there better options?
Some of these newer ones from reserve and 76 projects say about higher flow etc. but also higher price!
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
A recent thread recommended tesa packing tape but I've always used muc-off and it works great. If you're always able to inflate tyres with muc off valves then why do you need valves with a higher flow?
I'm running the 76 projects ones after getting totally pissed off with my uberbikes that I had on both mine and Hippy JR's bikes. The increased airflow is very noticeable, much easier to get air in. Apparently it doesn't play with all pumps and can need an adaptor but using my track pump and one up I've had no issues.
Sealant, I still use Stans. If you are using inserts you might want to look at the valves that allow air to pass sideways.
I need to swap the rear ones in my wheels since I moving to using inserts. I suspect the insert rests on the rubber stopper blocking the hole then the sealant seals the interface between the two surfaces.
I makes it a pain when needing to top up the pressure in the tyre, or far worse when having to use my little trail pump.
Stans Race sealent, not particularly cheap, or everlasting, but works across all bikes including road tyres, and I can live with jet washing the insides of the tyres once a year if they've not worn out and putting new fluid in. A minimal amount of workshop faff in return for no faff on the trails.
Cheap sealant ended up being a false economy as it stops working in some condition or other (high pressure + flint, low pressure + big holes, there's always a compromise) so ended up buying small bottles for just the road bike, at which point may as well bite the bullet and just buy a liter of the good stuff.
Whatever valves fit the rim. Usually that's the generic ones that either came with them, or stans, or uberbike, or even just a valve cut from a punctured tube. Occasionally a PITA if the rim is anything other than a shallow channel and then needs a bit of trial and error, or the rim packing with thick/soft tape.
Airflow's not really an issue with a compressor and the valve core removed. The hole in the base of the valve is about the same size as the one in the end of my air gun. I do have uberbike valves on one bike, only issue was the rubber o-ring, just ditch it and put some threadlock on if you're actually worried about the locking moving.
Tape wise, I still use tessa strapping tape (aka. Stans) however it is more of a faff than some of the thicker, stretchier, stickier alternatives. But it comes on big rolls, every imaginable width, and it'll be years before I run out. I have used gorilla clear repair tape to patch over holes after replacing spokes but it's a PITA to cut accurately.
I'm surprised no one's revisited the rim-strip idea with TPU rather than butyl rubber?
I've gone back to stans sealant after a disaster with juice lubes. I also had a generic valve that wouldn't seal last month.
I went to order a complete kit from muc off but they had ridiculous postage costs to Europe. I'd be interested to know if it's worth sourcing from a 3rd party.
Reserve valves are expensive but I really do like them, so much so I've even bought a second set
I've got two pairs of Peaty's valves. They are ok, but a little bulky. And the spoke key doesn't fit most of my spokes.
Next time I'll buy muc-off.
I also have caffe-latex valves. They are nice, especially now I've bought an o-ring to sit under the lock ring
Tesa tape, Stans or DT valves and Stans race sealant have never let me down
I just use the cheapest valves off eBay/Amazon. Usually with nice anodized caps. I don't use tyre inserts though.
I like the Muc Off valves, the o-ring is kind to carbon rims, but I wouldn't touch their sealant. Stan's or Stan's Race.
