[Closed] tubeless tyres!! please explain

Main reason (for me) is not having any punctures (so far).

No need to look for holes as they fix themselves unless their big gashes. Yeah a small amount of gunk is inside the tyre

i dont get them?

Try your LBS

what is the reason to run them?

Rolls faster (a tube rubs inside the tyre all the time wasting energy)

More grip (see above, but the tyre can bend around stuff on the ground quicker giving more grip.

Less punctures, as you have to run sealent most thorn punctures are fixed instantly without you noticing.

Less punctures, as there's no tube there's very little chance of a pinch flat, unless you tear right through the tyre.

weight?

Saves a fraction, but not much
Tube = 150g

Sealent = 50g
Tape = 50g

Thats assuming you use a "tubeless ready" tyre (specialized 2bliss, bontranger TLR etc), a full on UST tubeless tyre is very heavy, and you can get superlight tyres to use with tubes, but they're usually crap anyway an no one appart from people who take pic of their bikes on scales uses them.

i watched a video if some guy stabing his tubeless tyre and he put this gunk in it and it resealed the whole! does it just slosh around in the tyre?

how to you repair a hole? how to you FIND the whole??

You answered your own question, the sealent seals 99% of punctures. over 3+months it dries out and stops being effective, eventually you get a flat and put a tube in to get you home, then tube out, pour in another 50ml, and 9 times out of 10 it seals. If the hole is 2 big (around 3-5mm) then there are kit's to seal them using a chunky strip of rubber (anchovie sized) and a needle, poke the rubber through, pull it back and the folded up bits fill the hole, either that or just put a tube in.

Basically they're better than tubes in every way, and when they go wrong you just put a tube in to get you home.

Only downside is they can be a faff to get working if you don't know the tricks to get normal tyres to work tubeless or spend money on proper tubeless kit.

No punctures.

so i got to get a repair kit specific for the job? any suggestions??

and i got to refill the gunk every three months?

this is weired, but im being converted...

[[i]seal them using a chunky strip of rubber (anchovie sized)[/i]]

Excellent use of the fish sizing scale!

Saves a fraction, but not much
Tube = 150g
Sealent = 50g
Tape = 50g

valve and yellow tape approx 25g
sealant yeh go on probably about right

but you also miss that a stans rim is a damn sight lighter as well

crest 29er rim 380g look at comparable rims from mavic, WTB, DT swiss and your over 500g a rim so it all adds up 🙂

if you are going to bodge a rim strip into a conventional rim, then there is cock all weigh benefit

Part of me is sold on tubeless. But the amount of trouble people seem to have either getting tyres on to tubeless spec rims or then getting the tyre to seal without a compressor, it doesn't seem to be worth the trouble.

I did run slime filled tubes on the commuter for a few years, the lack of punctures was a god send but the valve clogging up with dried slime, the struggle to inflate without a compressor (getting the slime plug to move out of the valve) and the weight difference were all off putting.

I still don't fancy sitting on the trail side pulling out all of the thorns so you can put a tube in to get home. Cos we all know you don't get punctures or mechanicals in glorious sunshine.

Er, amount sealant used is 100ml isnt it? That would be 100g if its the same weight as water.

Er, amount sealant used is 100ml isnt it? That would be 100g if its the same weight as water.

Depends on your tyre, takes more to seal normal pourous tyres like conti or maxxis (about 100ml), 2bliss tyres seem to take 50-70ml, UST just enough to wet the inside. But you're just substituting a light tyre for more sealent so no net benifit. Still lighter than all but the lightest tubes (normal 26x1.9-2.1 tubes are about 150-160g).

But as said up there, the weight savings are a negligable side benifit after grip/rolling resistance/puncture protection.

Ohh, and it makes the tyres really noisy on the road!

lack of pinch punctures is the main benefit for me. If you get a lot of those it's a no brainer to move over. I was getting ~ 1 a week before I went tubeless. I think over 4 years I've actually saved money despite having to buy a new set of wheels and a compressor

But the amount of trouble people seem to have either getting tyres on to tubeless spec rims or then getting the tyre to seal without a compressor, it doesn't seem to be worth the trouble.

that is because people are idiots and don't read the bloomin instructions. 🙄

Fitted a tyre with stans in about 5 mins in a carpark with a track pump at the weekend for mate.

Same as tazzymtb rubber queen and mk2 fitted to stans and sealed perfectly in 5 mins.

With the weight comparisons... My lightest tubes are only slightly heavier than my regular tubeless setup, it's true. But they're skinny and delicate, whereas my tubeless setup is almost punctureproof. To compare like with like I'd need to pull out the downhill tubes, about 3-4 times heavier and they're still easier to flat.

It can be a faff, but it's a faff in the time and place of your choosing, rather than half way down your favourite descent, in the rain.

tazzymtb - Member

valve and yellow tape approx 25g

Bout 1/3d of that per end. I made it 9g.

Puncture resistance/weight advantage aside, they just 'feel' better....

Tubeless all the way here.

Fitting a tubeless tyre onto a UST rim is a doddle, takes no more than 5 mins (even with logos and valves aligned)