Tubeless Tape Recom...
 

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[Closed] Tubeless Tape Recommendations..............

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Hi All

I'me going to give converting the fatty to tubeless one more try.

Form my experience the last time it's apparent I can't overlap tape so I need some 75mm wide tape to cover the 80mm rims in one wrap.

I'd get the specific SunRingle stuff for the Mulefut rims but it seems hard to come by over here.

Any recommendations for 75mm (ish) tape?

Cheers


 
Posted : 31/03/2018 7:57 am
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Edit - didn’t see it was for fatty


 
Posted : 31/03/2018 8:13 am
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I've done my Mulefuts with 3 different types of tape without problems.

The first was with 50mm gorilla tape, the second was with 32mm i9 torch tubeless tape (from Just Riding Along) and currently with the specific SunRingle tape.

When using the gorilla tape and the i9 tape wrap the tape around the rim from edge to edge in one continuous run overlapping as you need. The SunRingle tape is wide enough to do in a single wrap.

I've used the following method every time and not had a problem. The tyres I've used are 3.8 Bontrager Hodag and currently 4.0 Schwalbe Jumbo Jim

Before wrapping any tape, remove your rimstrip and give the rim a really good scrub with methylated spirit (or isopropyl alcohol) to degrease it. re-fit the rim strip and carefully trim it so it sits between the 'bumps' in the centre of the rim. Degrease this as well.

Start at the tape 4" before the valve hole and wrap the rim completely pulling the tape tight as you go, finish the tape 4" past the valve hole. (so if using wide tape there is an 8" overlap)

You must make sure that you go completely edge to edge as there are some small holes in the bead shelf which will leak.

Compress the tape with a cloth, rubbing it around the rim multiple times.

Use a hot poker to poke through the valve hole but don't fit the valve. Instead re fit the tyre and inner tube and inflate to around 20-30 PSI and leave for a couple of hours or so. This will compress the tape further.

Deflate the tube and pop one tyre bead off the rim, remove the tube and fit the valve.fit most of the second bead and pour in your sealant, then pop the rest of the bead on. Put the wheel on a bucket with the loose bead facing down and inflate quickly, the tyre should pop on at around 15-20 PSI

Shake the sealant around the rim and you should be good to go. I use a weak soap solution brushed around the rim to check for leaks and shake the sealant at those spots if needed.Once you get no more (or only tiny bubbles) you can deflate to your required pressure.

This might be a long post, but hopefully will help


 
Posted : 31/03/2018 2:16 pm
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Great instructions, thanks MP!

I'll give it another go.


 
Posted : 31/03/2018 8:35 pm
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Hot poker...interesting idea. I've always cross-cut with a Stanley knife, but sounds better. Soldering iron?

Can also recommend the inner tube trick to get the tape properly stuck down, but I tend to get the wrap so tight that there no possibility of airgap anyway.

Good, clear instructions - thanks!


 
Posted : 31/03/2018 9:47 pm
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Also liking the hot poker/soldering iron idea!


 
Posted : 31/03/2018 9:53 pm
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I’ve found a Stanley knife too big before and tend to use a scalpel (10A) while still being on team crosscut. Making the hole for the valve is probably the easiest part of the whole process to screw up and cause a leak at.

Not sure why you think overlapping won’t work?  It’s possible to do it so it doesn’t, but if everything is nice and clean and tight at install time it can work very well.

Mulefuts are proper Tubeless rims and don’t need help. As above, 30mm tape on the centreline covering the valve hole and spoke holes is all you actually need. The proper Sun tape does make it super easy though. Does Slam69 not keep it?  I know CRC are usually out of stock...


 
Posted : 31/03/2018 10:05 pm
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I didn't think overlapping would work as I must have tried it 5 or 6 times, with three different types of tape, and while it usually goes on ok and the tyre inflates ok after 1 or 2 days it's terminally leaking, usually from the rim or spoke holes.

I should probably add at this point that this set of wheels are odd. The front is a pre-built SunRingle Mulefut, whereas the rear is home-built on the same model Mulefut rim. The spoke ends protrude a little more than normal on the rear (despite much measuring and quadruple checking everything before ordering the spokes). This may be the cause of my problems given the comments above?

Cheers


 
Posted : 01/04/2018 7:42 am
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@ psycorp, the rimstrip should help with the over length spokes on the rear wheel but it might be a good idea to file/grind them down to at least flush with the nipple head if they stick out.

To every one else commenting on the hot poker, I use this (or a hot nail etc) as I've had failures cutting an X at the valve hole (normal rims) and read it somewhere. I also make the hole so you have to force the valve through to make it a tighter seal.

@ vincienup, the Mulefuts have small holes around the bead shelf, no idea what their purpose is so just to be on the safe side they get taped too


 
Posted : 01/04/2018 2:43 pm
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Never heard of Slam69 so had a look. They have 48mm x 10M (£18) and 78mm x 50M (£60) in stock the 78mm x 10M (£18) is out of stock.

You'll need the 78mm for the 80mm Mulefut rim although 50m is excessive for a pair of rims unless you've got friends that can use it too

HTH


 
Posted : 01/04/2018 2:58 pm
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crossweave-Tape-Strong-Reinforced-Glass-Filament-12-25-38-50mm-x-50m/253526160313?hash=item3b075633b9:m:m-ZLnYS7RZwfmEmhW_NMmAA

Works for me on about 10 wheels with Hutchinson Tubeless valves. About £15 for two wheels. I use three layers on rim and then awl to start valve hole.


 
Posted : 01/04/2018 4:55 pm

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