[Closed] Trouble reinstalling race face cranks.

What BB are you using? Ime race face cranks def work best with RF Xtype BB

Have you take out all the axle spacers? You might need some.

It's a RF BB.
I don't remember taking any spacers off, but I think this is the problem.
Shall I just buy some?
When I look in the bolt side, it does look like there is room to push together, there are still 4-5 mm of splines showing but surely it shouldn't be that difficult.

If you still have splines showing then you're just not tightening it enough. When it's fully home, you'll not see the splines. What length of hex key are you using? You'll need a very long one or something over a short one (metal pipe or tube) to extend it and get enough leverage.

You should be able to tighten your bb cups up by hand then just nip them the last bit. If you've tightened by hand and there's still thread showing I'd suggest looking in the bin for some spacers. Don't know if this is the case?

Sounds like there's either something in the splines of the shaft or in the crank arms. Or maybe the metal's been deformed from over exubberance. Hard to just hazard a guess from this info

I hate to say it but have you got the splines lined up correctly?

If you have got the splines lined up properly have you cleaned and greased the thread on the inside of the crank before trying to tighten up the crank bolt? Maybe there's some crap in there stopping it at one point.

As Druid says, use pipe or crown race setting tool as a lever and hang off it...it'll tighten up nicely.

Or your'll strip the thread off the bolt! I'm good at that!!! 😕

What width is the B/B shell on the frame and how many spacers are you using on the B/B (between the cups and the frame)?

d45yth - Member
What width is the B/B shell on the frame and how many spacers are you using on the B/B (between the cups and the frame)?

I have cleaned and greased the splines, but I'll check it again, in case it's not lined up.
I was worried I would strip the thread, but have given it a lot of welly.
I might take the pedals off, lie it on the floor and get my lump hammer out.
I always get myself into these scrapes. It looked so easy on tinternet,
Would a big G clamp work?

I doubt you can exert as much pressure with a clamp or lump hammer as you can with the proper tool - and you've more chance of damaging it.

TBH, I was gobsmacked at how much effort it took. I managed to find a long thin tube which I fitted over the end of the hex key to get sufficient torque. It's easier now that it's been fitted a couple of times and you know when it's "hoe" because it really, really won't move any further.
What sort of hex key are you using?

After fitting various Shimano cranks over the years, this is a completely different kettle of ballparks 🙂

If he's still seeing the splines, he hasn't tightened the crank on far enough.

Hang on...just had a thought, are you using a self extracting bolt??

I'm using a long padded hex key, I could use a pipe to lengthen.
Not sure what a 'self extracting bolt' is, the thing I am tightening is the hex bolt that was in the crank originally.
The one which i thought was for fine adjustment. That's a laugh.
I have got a long handled torque wrench, if I can find a bit to fit it, that should do quite well.

Read the bloody instructions and measure your bb. Use correct spacers!
http://www.raceface.com/installation-instructions/
Sorry for swearing 😳

The Swede -

druidh - Member

If he's still seeing the splines, he hasn't tightened the crank on far enough.

Although I can see your frustration as it should be a simple task. It sounds like something is already knackered to me.
OP - it is a 8mm allen key you're using, not a 10mm?

You shouldn't need any extra force like a pipe over the allen key to seat them.
Have you got the correct spacers between your bearing cups and the frame.Mine ran with 2 on the drive and 1 on the non drive.
Also you should have spacers both on the drive and non drive side of the cranks.If the crank bolts up but is stiff to turn then remove a crank spacer.If there is play add a spacer.
If they are old cranks then the inner part of the bearing can wear into the crank axle and then you will never get the play out.
If all else fails buy Shimano.Far better system.

d45yth - Member

The Swede -

druidh - Member

If he's still seeing the splines, he hasn't tightened the crank on far enough.

Although I can see your frustration as it should be a simple task. It sounds like something is already knackered to me.
OP - it is a 8mm allen key you're using, not a 10mm?

What crankset is it?

I don't think I dropped any spacers.
I don't have instructions, it was already on the bike.
It still has splines showing at the bolt end so surely has that amount to go.
It's a race face xc ride.
I'm going to try again now.

The instructions are on the RaceFace website - linked above.

With the non driveside on how much axle/ spline is poking out the bb drive side?

If you don't understand how a crankset works you should really take it to a shop or someone who does!

That wasn't very helpful was it 😳
Me and my temper.

Nobody's asked yet, have you taken it off to change your chainrings?If so, have you put on a non-compatible inner ring that has tabs that overhang the BB cup?

Ok, definitive answer, I am missing spacers.
Taken it apart again and I can see that there are marks showing how far up the splines the crank arm is.
It goes as far as it can, as they taper at the end,
And the ones on the crank are square at the end.
I don't think I dropped the spacers. The area was dirty so the shiney bit of exposed crank spindle was not obvious, as it is now.
Went to bike shop, not got any spacers but I'm sure I'll find
Some somewhere.

Thanks for all your help with this guys.

spacers here
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=29489 ]http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=29489[/url]

Thanks again.

did you sort this, as i have exactly the same problem. Removed cranks to put onto a new frame, did not appear to drop any spacers, but cannot get the last 3 to 4 mm to tighten.

Teenrat if you have gone from one frame to another sounds like your old frame was 73 mm and your new one 68

Old frame was definately 68mm with 7.5 mm of BB spacers. measured it up and the width is exactly the same as on the new frame. Have noticed that the red 'seal spacer' is mssing from the drive side crank. Not sure though whether replacing this would be enougth to remove all the play though.

Could i just use chainline spacers on the non driveside crank spindle to 'pack it out'?

I've had two sets of RF cranks, one set were just like this, total bugger to install and remove.

The other set are perfect

Right, finally, the reason for the problem.
Got crank washers from 'Uk bike store' (half the price of CRC) arrived next day.
Still felt ropey. Took BB out this evening, the middle bit, the spacer, is crushed slightly, because there were not enough washers on it. The washers needed are clearly written on a sticker on the spacer.
So the whole BB is too narrow by 5mm. Which is why I couldn't reinstall the cranks. They must have been wrong from the start.
Because the spacer is crushed, it was rubbing on the crank.
Any hoo, new xtr £28 from uk bike store, only £5 more than rose cos no p and p.