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awful roads around London
Really? that's what gold paving does for you
To be fair to matts the roads in London are mostly paved with 24 carat gold, it's far too soft as a suitable road surface, perhaps Boris should offer a Platinum coating upgrade specifically for use by the [i]Righteous Tripster Owners Club[/i].
Criffel granite setts is what's required.
Very nice Matts. I note you have a zero layback seatpost, I found I really needed layback as the frame is a fairly relaxed fit for me.
Let us know how you get on with that?
More lovely looking Tripsters ?
8)
Useless t***s at Upgrade and Winstanley's have sent me the wrong fugging bung again! 👿
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Do they not read this page to get info on the bikes they sell?, if not then it's about time they did.
They either didn't listen to you or read your email correctly regarding the issue with the 22mm steerer, get one from somewhere else then bill them for the expense and your wasted time.
Ok, I take that back... 😳
The one they just sent me has got a removable secondary sleeve to give it 2 thicknesses. Headset sorted. 
Haha!, just as well you noticed before you got all.....
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Bad mutha ...... on them
Ahh well…..Looks like i'm in for a round of healthy [i]bit of a dick[/i] jesting (see page 43 - brooks saddle)
Just back in from a 2 hr ride where i managed pathetic little distance (13miles) due to the hellish winds and my arse hurt like hell for the entire journey (castelli sorpasso bibs so not the pad either), saddle is the correct height, fore and aft is correct so i'm away back out for a 30 min ride armed with my 5mm allen key and i'll try adjusting the angle - otherwise someone on here is going to get a bargain.
Arse indeed!. 🙁
interested in the saddle if you can't get it to 'fit'
Do like the look of those Cambiums. Aren't Brooks' leather saddles famed for having a bit of a break in period? Maybe the same with the Cambium?
As for the chaise longue - The Mrs owned it before we met and I can't get her to part with it...
I thought it was one of those 'special' chairs!
Matts - £1.99 Pinarello one from CRC fits (22.2mm according to cap) and seems to work. I'm not sure I'm 100% confident in it, but mainly as it's my first carbon steerer build - might throw the LBS a few quid to look it over once I've built it if I'm still not sure, but once the stems clamped on it feels fine.
About half way to pics. Any ideas on how to de sticker a Ragley carbon post? Seems quite well lacquered in.
The bung just pre loads the bearings no?
It's the stem which basically holds it all together.. Just make sure you've done that up to the right Nm
Arse still hurts, in fact my arse bones are still painful as i sit here 2 hours after cycling home from work…. No matter what angle i adjusted it to it just did not fit so [i][b]FAIL[/b][/i] on my part and serves me right as there was nothing wrong with the comfort or fit my fizik Kium Aliante but i fell for the Brooks hype/marketing and convinced myself i needed one to give that finishing touch to my Tripster, after all they are de rigueur on all touring bikes and you can't call yourself a cyclist unless you have a Brooks.
Ho…Hum - Guess it's going on the classifieds later tonight, damn shame as it does look the absolute mutts nuts.
brassneck : Once you have the correct preload on the headset bearings using the steerer bung and tighten the stem steerer bolts to the correct torque then the steerer bung does absolutely nothing so it'll be perfectly fine.
somafunk ... forget the classifieds ... I'll take the c15
Hmm, it was £116 from Evans but i was hoping for £90 posted next day delivery on the classifieds - less than 4 hours use with all the packaging as shown on previous page, dunno if you'd still be interested at that price?.
£90 posted you say ... done sir 🙂
bank transfer ok ?
email me therevokid at gmail dot com
will do,
A bit off topic, but I thought as this is the thread for all things Tripster I'bd bung it here.
Kinesis are bringing out the Tripster Ace.
Looks a possible C2W tool.
As it uses the original ally tripster frame it could be converted to drops etc.
http://www.bikebiz.com/news/read/core-upgrade-2pure-ison-paligap/017426
brassneck : Once you have the correct preload on the headset bearings using the steerer bung and tighten the stem steerer bolts to the correct torque then the steerer bung does absolutely nothing so it'll be perfectly fine.
Yeah, thats what I figured. Just wanted to be sure, no one likes a wobbly front end 😯
Now, can anyone recommend a torque wrench for allen bolts 🙂 - it's nipped on to 'just holding' whilst I'm building .. which brings me to the cabling (my first drop bar build in case its not obvious) - am I right in thinking gear cables need ferrules to nest into the shifters, whilst the brake cables are just outers? Not clear from what is supplied in the groupset boxes (it was all pukka boxed) in the way of instructions.
What compressionless cables for 105 and Hy/Rds?
Is Yokozuna noticeably better than Jagwire Racer?
EDIT: I do get judder, so looking to upgrade.
I have the Jagwires on that same set-up.
I have the Jagwires on that same set-up.
do you judder?!
Now, can anyone recommend a torque wrench for allen bolts - it's nipped on to 'just holding' whilst I'm building
Try one of the Norbar models. Not cheap but well worth the money.
I've managed to lose mine somewhere so I'm just about to order a replacement TTi20 3/8" drive one.
Hi All.
Just received the new frame from Merlin.
I Have some problem to insert the expander inside the fork tube.It's my first time building a bike so I could have done something wrong,but it seems the tube diameter is just a little less than 23 mm while the expander is obviously 23 mm, so it does not fit.
Do you think it is possible?
Yup, read the last 4 pages - This batch appears to have the wrong headset in the box.
Winstanley's spoke to Upgrade and they sent out a replacement.
Didn't see it.
Thanks.
I have the Jagwires on that same set-up.
do you judder?!
I had judder with some Avid's and the TRP's that replaced them. I replaced the cables with Jagwire ones and put copper grease on the back of the pads, and they stopped juddering. So either one of those things, or both in combination, apparently fixed the issue.
Brassneck : [url= http://www.rutlandcycling.com/105861/products/giant-tool-shed-torque-wrench-2-24nm.aspx?origin=pla&kwd=¤cy=GBP&gclid=CJfDp8vd3cMCFY_MtAodhUAAYA ]This 2-24nm Torque Wrench[/url] is quite decent for bike stuff (i have one along with my [url= http://www.rutlandcycling.com/297185/products/ritchey-torque-mini-tool-key-set---4nm-or-5nm.aspx?origin=pla&kwd=¤cy=GBP&gclid=CI_KlNDe3cMCFWfJtAodaAkAXA ]ritchey torque keys[/url])
A torque wrench is not that accurate when used at the lower/upper extremes of it's settings - they are designed to be used within the middle range so the above wrench will be more accurate at the type of torque settings used on bike products such as stem bolts/seat bolts, crank bolts etc rather than a wrench that has a torque setting that starts at 4nm or 5nm. The ritchey torque keys are handy in use as they are preset with a very positive feel/click when the torque setting is reached. If you want to get picky about torque settings then there are products such as [url= http://www.tooled-up.com/product/facom-torque-driver-2-10-nm/186466/?Referrer=googleproductlisting&gclid=CN7h28Xh3cMCFQIGwwodWgcATw ]this facom torque bit driver[/url] but unless you are continually building expensive carbon components it may be considered rather overkill for a home mechanic.
When you buy a new wrench it is advisable to exercise it a few times at it's very upper setting on a suitable very tight bolt (any bolt will do as long as the torque setting is reached) before unwinding it and storing it at it's lowest setting.
Crimsondynamo : I have tried both Yokozuna and Jagwire on my Spyres, the Yokozuna has a very stiff housing and is a pain in the arse to form tight radius bends so it can sit well under bar tape, it gave a very good solid brake feel when i used it with my Ultegra levers/SLC Spyres and it's absolutely bomb proof in construction but to be honest i would just as happily use the Jagwire compressionless housings as it's far easier to work with, I currently use Jagwire and i'm perfectly happy with it - easier to work with and there's no difference in lever feel.
It may be the discs that are causing the juddering?, i say this as i have experienced no juddering or brake squealing at all with my Spyres, not even in very wet or muddy conditions but i have fitted [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xt-rt76-6-bolt-disc-rotor/rp-prod39007 ]XT 6 bolt rotors with alloy spiders[/url], from my perspective i feel that the supplied TRP disc rotors with flimsy arms allow for a certain vibration to pass through the disc under heavy braking which builds up to an oscillating vibration across the surface that presents itself by howling like a skelped banshee on a full moon, i also set my Spyres up with the aid of [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hayes-pad-rotor-alignment-tool/rp-prod35769 ]this hayes pad alignment tool[/url], i realise that your hy/rd set up may be different in operation but the set-up and alignment of pads to the disc is crucial for effective braking. (a set of feeler gauges will do the same job but i'm a sucker for tools).
I guess it's about time for a quick update on how my rebuilt tripster is riding,
It's just the absolute bomb (to steal a phrase from the yoof's), the Jones Loop bars make such a massive difference to how i can handle the genuine off road excursions as the riding position allows me to keep a wide stance and grip whilst maintaining full braking control along with the ability to view the trail ahead, previously i had to get down into the drops if i wanted to get full braking control as the hoods only offered so much braking performance and the chance of my hands being shook loose whilst on the hoods was rather high.
When on the road the increased comfort from the upright position is very noticeable, i never used the drops anyway so the position whilst using the Jones bars suits me fine, it's not a racing bike so i'm not fussed with the increased drag from being upright, intact i'd say being upright has improved my quality of riding so it's a massive win. And if i so desire to get out the wind i can hold onto the front loop which drops my position considerably but it's not that comfortable for me for extended periods so it'll be a last resort in gale force winds.
The dynamo lighting is just the most amazing revelation - why haven't i used a dynamo before?, i just jump on and ride….no faffing about with batteries, wondering if i've charged them or if they'll last the ride or messing about strapping them on around the bike. And the light spread from the Edelux ii front light is very effective at lighting up the road in front of me rather than illuminating everything around me in a massive arc of light like my solar storm off road lights, the Edelux is a far better light to ride with on the road. I was initially fretting about the extra weight of the hub but it's just 200 grams ?- what's that in the real world? - i certainly have not noticed it and a strap on battery pack is more than that anyway so it was an unnecessary worry. The bearing/hub service life of 50,000 km (or is it miles?) is something i shan't have to worry about for a long time. The USB charging plug on the stem is great - I have a wee speaker that fits on my handlebar called the [url= http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/m11b404s757p37655/Outdoor_Technology_Buckshot_Mini_Wireless_Speaker/RS_GB/92208?gclid=COH9nIzp3cMCFYfKtAodvGkACg ]Buckshot[/url] that sits in a velcroed bracket, it's great paired up with my iPhone which sits in a Topeak Ride case on my handlebar so i can listen to tunes whilst i ride, or the other fine day i watched/listened to "A Sunday in Hell - Roubaix 1976" whilst out on a road ride, meanwhile my phone charge was kept topped up and i attempted to sprint along with the film and commentary when the cobbled sections popped up in the film 😀 .
The King rear hub is nice and quiet (unless i freewheel suddenly down a hill), the increased speed of engagement/pick up compared to the Hope on my Hummer is very noticeable, to the point that i recently stripped my Hope freewheel to see if it was damaged but nope - it was spotless inside. Never owned a King hub before but for 20 odd years i've always wanted one.
The Middleburn crankset and bb just works perfect (and looks the dogs bollox, not that that matters eh? 😉 ) along with the XTR shifting which is butter smooth and very light, the addition of the XTR clutch rear mech has reduced the chain chatter to zero when playing about off road so hopefully i'll avoid a repeat of the drivetrain explosion that happened back on page 20 (ish). I've ordered a set of the [url= http://www.trickstuff.de/en/products/clapton_KL.php ]Trickstuff Claptons and XTR Mounts[/url] as i want to try the XTR shifters further up the Jones bars and need a hinged clamp so i can fit them inside the loops - it's all minor fettling regarding getting that perfect position for comfort and use.
The PDW mudguards (i refuse to call them fenders) are very solid and not the slightest bit of movement, they are very easy to adjust for when i fit different tyres as all it takes is a 2.5mm allen key on the locking section of the stays and you can move them in/out to suit the clearance over whatever tyres you are running, i did need to order the extra long rear stay so bear that in mind if your going to try them out on your tripster.
Not much else to say?, the pauls love levers/brake levers are one of those bike jewellery items that just offer the finishing touch to the build, they probably offer very little in the way of braking leverage over a suitable Avid or similar lever but they are a genuine work of machinist art and i could justify them with ease, very nice folk to deal with as well.
I've used the bike to get back n' forward to work everyday since it was built back up, and i've been out on it every work night along with decent runs on road/off road/forest roads on my days off so it obviously [i]works[/i] for me in it's current incarnation, it's definitely been worth trying a different build from the normal drop bar set-up and i'd go as far as saying the frameset suits the Jones bar set-up even more than drops, it does for me and what i want out of it anyway.
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Speaker mounted on bars and Topeak iPhone case inside the loops, gotta have my tunes when riding.
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Somafunk.. Every time you post a new picture there's something else I spot that gets added to my want list.
Didn't realise those caliper alignment tools existed.. But I've just bought one
Must. Stop. Reading. This. Thread
😀
Yeah, it's such a simple wee tool but it can save you ages faffing about trying to get correct caliper spacing by the usual methods, just make sure it is spotless when you use it as greasy marks from your fingers may otherwise be transferred to your pads or discs.
When I worked in the shop it was one of my most used tool box items and no-one knew such a tool existed, the feeler gauge arms can be bent rather easy by ham-fisted attempts to insert them so take it easy and never lend it to mates as they'll almost certainly bugger it up.
Those mudguards.. gotta get me a set of those too... they are really slick looking.. where'd you get those from? Need to stop looking at your bits now.. 😆
[url= http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/pdw-full-metal-fenders-set---road-30mm--city-45mm-3329-p.asp ]charlie bike monger for mudguards[/url], you'll need the 45mm City's and longer rear 45mm City stays from [url= http://www.paligap.cc/-PDW-Full-Metal-Fender-Extra-Long-Stays_7058_p ]paligap[/url] or just ask Charlie to supply the longer stays when you order. You'll also need approx a 10mm spacer to fit on the front lower disc side mount to clear the calipers
😉Must. [s]Stop[/s] Keep. Reading. This. Thread
Re the Hayes pad tool.
Saw [url=
for pad setting[/url]
Hi guys - interesting thread! So much to read...
I'm thinking of going with a dynamo setup for my new Tour De fer which I have ordered but I'm not sure what to get. I like the USB charging thingy but that thing that attaches to the stem (somafunk has one) seems very expensive when you add the light and the hub/wheelbuild on.
My brother (peterpoddy) saw the Busch and Muller new range and pointed me towards a light in here:
The Lumotec IQ2 Luxos 179U is suitable for the road and looks good on mild offroad too (I won't be going proper offroad, maybe sustrans routes and rough lanes at the most), has 90lux output (no idea on lumens), handlebar control, cache battery, USB charging , daytime running light, standlight, [b]daytime sensing[/b] (yowsers!) and rear light connection monitoring. I think he said it's about £130 but that seems like a bargain to me!!!
What do you think?
Also, I have no idea what hub to get.... any ideas?
I looked at those Busch & Muller lights and they seemed perfectly up to whatever use i could possibly have for it but being the bike tart (dick?) that i am i had to go for the more expensive option, i doubt my set-up is any better or offers any more functionality in the slightest - I'd happily run a [url= http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/busch-and-muller-lumotec-iq2-luxos-u-senso-headlight-for-hub-dynamos-prod31108/ ]Lumotec luxus U[/url] - especially with 90lux output and handlebar controls.
As for dynamo hubs the [url= http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/dynamos-hub-dept366/#filterkey=brand&brand=SPDYNAMO&page=1 ]SP dynamo hubs as used by USE Exposure[/url] get a very good write up from users.
I've just ordered the Plug and back up battery for mine....
hummerlicious : remember you'll need to take a dremel grinding wheel to the kinesis steerer bung, i guess you could do it with a file but the dremel takes seconds to do it. Are you going to be drilling a hole in the fork crown to pass the wires through?.
Just browsing away online while i listen to Nemone's Electric Ladyland on 6 Music and i happen across [url= http://www.velovitality.co.uk/products/compass-barlow-pass-tyre-700c-x-38-mm ]Velo Vitality, link to Compass tyres[/url] , has anyone used this brand of tyres? - they seem to have some very decent looking tyres - i particularly like the Barlow 38mm tyre in the link above along with [url= http://www.velovitality.co.uk/collections/wheels-tyres-and-tubes/products/compass-stampede-pass-tyre-700c-x-32-mm ]the Compass Stampede in a 32mm here.[/url]
I've not heard of them before?.
EDIT : [url= https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/01/05/tpi-and-tire-performance/ ]It appears Panaracer manufacture Compass tyres[/url]
[url= http://www.compasscycle.com/tires.html ]Compass Bicycles[/url]
Anyone with Cowbells know exactly where the measurements are taken?
In the image you can see that the markings at the hoods are closer together at the top than the bottom. Where along those markings is the measured width?
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Reet. Brake judder. Have you checked your front qr? I had a really annoying loose headset feeling on my Tripster. I stripped it twice and eventually tracked it down to the qr. Try a Shimano qr and see if that helps?
TRP Disc Connect housings have been on my Spykes on my fat bike and they are excellent. I would heartily recommend them.
Somafunk - jones bars........niiiiice! I will be copying you if you don't mind!
Sanny
I spent a long long time at the London Bike Show looking at the the ATR, it's got classic written all over if, just so nice from every angle, the flat bar alloy version is very nice too, and great value. Was good to chat with Rory from Upgrade about how the Tripster came to life, and really interested to see what Dom's own Mason collection will be like. Until then I might try the large volume WTB 650b rims on my Sync.
Cowbells are measured at the hoods (c to c) so a 42 should be the same (at hoods) as a 'normal' 42
I just wanted to say it was great meeting some of you at the London Bike Show. I was only there Thurs/Fri but still so many happy Tripster owners to chat to! My bike on display for the show had different tyres on (as I forgot to bring them), not my 28mm Conti 4Seasons but otherwise it was literally just as I finished riding in India. Other than the destroyed 10spd transmission I wouldn't change anything.
Now excited to finally get to ride it up here in Scotland having not ridden it in the UK since I left in July.
[url= http://welovemountains.net/my-highlights-from-the-london-bike-show/ ]
London Bike Show[/url]
Okay, okay, I'll admit, I'm interested in this frame!
I went through this long post yesterday evening and my whistle is wet.
I currently have one of these (Rose DX Pro Cross):
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Not a bad bike, but could be seen as a little stiff and for me, has crappy toe overlap. I'm due to start commuting by bike and my wife kindly offered a new bike/frame for my birthday. I was looking at custom jobbies, but I'm very much a normal size and wouldn't really benefit (in my head) from a custom bike.
For me it's a tool, that gets used all year around, I need something that I can shoot off down interesting tracks, but also use day in day out for my 40 km round trip commute (with gaurds and not bloody overlap).
So, plan would be to strip off what I can from the Rose and migrate it over to the Tripster. It's about a year and a half old so everything is still in good nick after a bit of spit a polish.
Has anyone ridden both and can comment on the difference in Ride experience?
Dont you get toe overlap on all road / cx frames.. what size frame have you got now??
I'm 183, ride a 58 and have size 43, so hardly clown feet.
I have a 54cm frame, PDW mudguards with sufficient clearance over 37mm tyres and 165mm cranks, size 43 feet and no toe overlap but it's close.
I have a friend who has a later Rose and I wonder if they changed something as he says he doesn't have any problems with toe overlap...but on mine it's really noticeable especially with guards.
It would be great to hear from anyone who's ridden both bikes. I do like my Rose and the componentry is spot on, no quibbles there.
It can fly along the rough stuff, but I wouldn't say it's overly comfortable, quite a bit of vibration, I would love to compare the rides between the Tripster and the Rose.
Where are you in the country?, I'm up in Kirkcudbright, dumfries & galloway and if you are up this way then i'd be happy to lend it out for an afternoon/demo, same goes for anyone up this way biking at Kirroughtree/7 stanes on holiday, your welcome to try it out.
Get your mate to measure the distance between pedal axle (when pedal is at 3 o'clock position) and the front axle and compare it to your measurements, perhaps he has shorter cranks or a lower profile tyre.
Thanks for your kind offer, but I'm outside the UK.
I'll have to take a look at the measurements you mention.
Trying to speak with suppliers at the moment to work out cost of postage and import duty.
My last bike, a Lynskey Sportive Titanium fitted with SKS mudguards and 23mm tyres always gave me overlap problems.
My 57cm Tripster, with its massive clearances, I was expecting more toe overlap (but hoping against it). Anyway, with 32mm tyres, PDW Fenders and my size 47 goretex (thick and bulky) boots = no toe overlap.
That's a pretty extreme example I think. Oh, and I have the cleats mounted fairly far forward on my boots, that's how I like them, but I guess that also helps.
If he does I'll expect a review 🙂I begged Rory to try a set in my sync!
Do I or don't I?
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Hopefully this works. Tripster at work. No one look at the bartape 😯
Do I or don't I?
I've been running them for 2 weeks now. They're fantastic! I'm running them with Hope X2 Lightweight rotors and XTR sintered pads.
Stopping downhill one finger rear brake while drinking. No problem. Loads of power, but also good modulation feel.
Are those shimano hydros only 11spd?? I darent start looking as i know what will happen.
Yes new 11spd hyd/cable STI units.
I am running Hope V twin at the moment, so not sure to upgrade.
But they look well nice!
[quoteDo I or don't I?
Yep, get em on. Only thing caused me to consider something else was lack of ability to run with XTR (or other mtb) clutch rear mech. Having said that you have to be getting pretty rough to need a clutch mech (see somafunk problems from getting lairy earlier in thread).
Wasn't my fault….****in pheasant tried to assault me and the only course of action was to attempt a bunny hop, which worked btw but the landing and subsequent chain slap did all the damage to my drivetrain.
😀
Somafunk - Would the Tubus Airey Titanium rack work with 29x2.1 tyres?
Is there enough room?
I've just sat the rack on my tripster and measured, yeah there is clearance for 2.1" tyres with regard to the rack but i doubt there is clearance at the chain stays (behind the BB) or the upper seat stays - if there is clearance it'd be mm's at best - i dunno if anyone has ran a tyre bigger than 1.8"/42mm? - I'd like to be proved wrong though.
Thanks Somafunk - how much clearance is there on the rack? What's the inner measurement between the stays of the rack at its narrowest part where the tyre would sit? If you could be so kind.
It wouldn't be used on a Tripster with 2.1s but I want a rack that would fit on multiple bikes. Tubus say it's only suitable for 700c and 26 inch.
You just may be able to squeeze a 2.1" between the stays of the rack on a 29'r, it certainly fits over the 26" x 2.1" when offered up to my Cove Hummer - there's plenty of clearance for 26" tyres.
These pics may be of help, the tyres i have fitted to my Tripster at the moment are Vittoria Voyager Hyper, they are marked as 700c x 35 but on my wide Velocity Aileron rims they size up to 39mm across the bead (rims are 20mm inner bead width, 25mm outer width).
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62mm mm at the top, or as near to as a tyre would actually sit.
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18mm clearance each side of tyre
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12mm clearance each side of tyre
Looks like I made a significant error in showing MrsB this thread, as she muses over a 'do it all' bike for touring, winter road, forest tracks etc, because she is totally smitten by them, even more so when she found out a couple of friends down south have them already, and love them.
The main issue she has is that she'd really like to be able to swing a leg over one to check for sizing. I don't suppose there's anyone here in sunny Aberdeenshire got a 51 or 54 she could check out?
Thanks for the photos Somafunk much appreciated.
My tyre (29x2.1) is 52mm across the widest part. It's might just go but would be tight and there would be a good chance of anything other than a hard backed pannier catching on the tyre.
Back to the drawing board with the Titanium Airy ........
Anyone got a spare kinesis CX rim/wheel...??
I want to build up a dynamo wheel, and upgrade only sell full wheelsets!
DrP
My tyre (29x2.1) is 52mm across the widest part. It's might just go but would be tight
I just measured the width of the chainstays and it's 47mm where the widest part of my current tyres are, so while it might go under the rack, 52mm isn't going to fit elsewhere.
Folks you do not [u]HAVE[/u] to modify your steerer bung to fit the Supernova Plug there is one [url= http://amba-marketing.com/products/1498-supernova_expander_for_plug_lll.php?r=1m23b0s55 ]available from Supernova[/url].
That steerer bung is the same as the one supplied with the Plug usb Charger top cap, it's too large (24mm-25mm) to fit inside the Tripster steerer.
if you zoom in on the picture you can see the recommended dia printed on the bottom of the bung
The ETA at Upgrade, for all frame sizes, was changed sometime earlier today to next Wednesday, 3 March...
I just fitted an XT 11-36 cassette to my tripster and everything works fine. RD is an XTR M972 and I changed the jockey wells to 10t.
It is possible I could have avoided the jockey wheel change if I pushed the B screw to its extreme.
One problems was that my new chain has no overlap when on the big rings. It seems to work but purists might want another brand as I think someone might do more as standard than do KMC.
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Anyone know if you can use shimano ctrlock ice tech rotors with TRP Spyre calipers without any issues
My 55.5 frame is being built up this week so should have it for the weekend 🙂
bluesmartie : I dunno bout the ice tech rotors but i am using shimano xt 6 bolt rotors without any clearance or fit problems, i prefer a rotor with a larger alloy spider as i believe (perhaps falsely?) that it helps to lessen braking squeal/reverberations due to the increased stiffness of the rotor.
I'd be wary of using the ice tech rotors as they are designed to cure brake fade/cooking the hydraulic fluid and to be used with the ice tech finned brake pads to aid with heat dispersion, on a long road descent with normal pads fitted to your spyres you may warp the aluminium core of the ice tech rotors leading to failure of the disc.
Of course i could be wrong and they may work fine time and time again but i personally wouldn't use them.
[i]Welcome to the club[/i] curto80 😀