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Had my 2010 giant trance x4 is just over 2 years now & noticed some lateral movement of the rear wheel tonight... The bearings behind the bb seam to have some play... & also the pair each side of seat tube too.. Not loose & clunky but they just move when pulling rear wheel left & right... Anyone changed em themselves???.. Your mighty knowlege would be good pls
Thanks guys
Pete
Kestrels1.ph@googlemail.com
I changed the bearings on my 2005 Trance. Is pretty easy if you know your way round a tool kit.
From experience, change them earlier rather than later. The reason being if, like me, you leave them long enough so one collapses and the inner race comes out it can be a nightmare to get out. However as long as they come out in one bit everything is easy enough, same as changing any other bearing.
Check this out. Good explanation. Pretty easy and no special tools required.
http://forums.mtbr.com/giant/trance-bearing-replacement-how-242343.html
Pair each side of seat tube will be the most shot, Mine collapsed - fully and were a nightmare to get out. It was amazing how well the bike rode with 90% seized or collapsed bearings all round. Ideally you need someone near Lincoln with the Giant Bearing Press kit (£100) which makes the whole job an odd pleasure, but threaded rods - one thin, one thicker and nuts and washers with socket set it also make the job OK - if alot slower. Katec bearings from ebay come from a chap on here.
What wally said. Did mine the other week and the seat tube ones were knackered. The rest of them were very graunchy. I got mine from mtb bearings.
Used Katec bearings on mine. Used a vice and socket, with plywood to protect parts for removing some. Then made a plywood / allthread press to pop new ones in. Take care with the two at the top of the rear triangle, it's quite difficult to push them squarely, but manageable.
yeah. No worries, especially in that position. the seat stay ones are a pain, due to the irregular housing around them.
Katec is, im afraid, the easiest place to get them at a reasonable cost
quick release, a stack of sockets, and an old QR axel.
allows you to put masses of pressure down, with a lot of control, as long as you only use the last little bit of the QR stroke (push a little, then re adjust it,, dont try and do it in one go)
