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In need of a tow hitch for a 12mm axle, I know there are 12mm axles like this one out there, but I was hoping there might be a less expensive option in my case.
You see my axle has a removable handle: undo a hex bolt and the handle pops off. Confusingly titled image.
Google fails me but I'm wondering if someone makes a hitch adaptor that takes advantage of that feature i.e. supplies a longer bolt and suitable spacers to bolt the (chariot) tow hitch onto the existing axle?
Or has anyone succeeded at making their own?
Is the hitch just one of these?
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQpeDCMbcTpNzP2T9LPiUCOLbjUkoG-N9GwIA&usqp=CAU
If so can't you just bolt it onto your axle when the lever is removed? Few appropriate washers if you need to step it out a bit. Use a high tensile bolt, 8.8 or higher, no monkey metal for that application.
Don't know if it's any help but I've just found this on Amazon (funnily enough I was thinking of getting one myself).
No idea on the quality or durability of it but it's a bit cheaper than the Robert Axle one, although it doesn't have the adaptability of the Robert. That might explain the extra cost of the Robert though.
@tthew it is one of those, yes. I was wondering if, with flat washers against the curved handle (rather than the flat dropout) there would be sufficient surface contact area to make a strong connection?
Bear in mind it'll just be screwed into an aluminum thread.
My trailer's a BOB copy with a similar but different QR axle. I'm going to experiment on my fixie by putting the QR through the hollow axle and just adding a washer on each end for the QR ends to clamp against.
Could something similar work? Put a 170mm or 190mm Fat bike QR through the axle assuming it's hollow and just use it to clamp the hitch. Might need a shim or something making up so the QR is centered in the hitch if it's a 10m hole.
If so can’t you just bolt it onto your axle when the lever is removed? Few appropriate washers if you need to step it out a bit. Use a high tensile bolt, 8.8 or higher, no monkey metal for that application.
It might not do any harm, but I wouldn't lose sleep on it, it's threaded into an aluminum axle after all.
I was wondering if, with flat washers against the curved handle (rather than the flat dropout) there would be sufficient surface contact area to make a strong connection?
Ah, I thought you would remove the handle and then bolt it on the end of the installed axle. No, I'd not attach it to the outside of the handle bit.
Ah, I thought you would remove the handle and then bolt it on the end of the installed axle
I'd considered that, was thinking there wasn't much surface area on the axle with the handle removed either, but actually the right washer would fix that wouldn't it.
It might not do any harm, but I wouldn’t lose sleep on it, it’s threaded into an aluminum axle after all.
If I'm reading the thread right, you're putting a bolt in shear, the bolt is under higher stress than the axle, so definitely use a decent bolt. A4 stainless or a 12.9 cap head and check it's tight regularly (loctite 222\243 wouldn't hurt)
If I’m reading the thread right, you’re putting a bolt in shear
Mainly tension when it's tightened up. And the weight of a balanced bike trailer shouldn't be more than a few kilos.
Having said this, I'd still put a tether on as a failsafe if it's a child in the trailer