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I'm considering buying a torque wrench to add to the tool kit. I already have a super b one that goes up to 15nm which gets used all the time And saved many a destroyed bolt.
One of my pet hates is re tightening the cassette lockring as I've no idea how tight 40 nm is. So far I've always used the tight as I dare rule, but that clicking gives me the creeps each time I do it. Other than this, and the bottom bracket (just bloody tight) are there really any other bits that would justify a new TR over 15Nm? Do many people even bother using one for the cassete lock ring/bb ?
If you get one, get one from a known brand. I have calibrated three X-tools ones now and none of them torque what they indicated.
I dont think you need one for over 15nm, there are not enough bolts to worry about.
I have one but that is because I used it for my motorcycle bolts, brake calipers and such.
All depends if you are confident in using hand tools 💡 If not get one.
We are going through a torque everything phase at work, we work on stuff outside and inside with temps up to 300deg and some serious pressures in water, N2 and other liquids/fluids..... Some bolts are torqued up to around 300-400Nm.
I'd say yay.
Giant do a very good one.
*Edit - Not for a cassette, though. Just crank it on tight! I use mine for crabon fribe bar/post/etc interfaces, and the triple clamps on my forks.
I'd say nay. Just do em up tight without resorting to a length of staff tube.
Let me have it CFH, see if you're right.
I have a torque wrench which I use for the higher torque things you mention. It's not calibrated, and probably way out. I'm sure I could live without it. Unlike the lower torque one which I'd not want to manage without (also not calibrated, but more expensive and I hope more reliable).
I was actually looking at the TengTools one in Screwfix for £50. If it's good enough for Ed on Wheeler Dealers it's good enough for me! Might look to get the SuperB calibrated after what you said LeeW as it's had a fair bit of use.
Draper do one for 20-80nm for around £25-30, have a look on Amazon
Wouldn't touch a draper with a barge pole. Sorry Chris, I totally forgot about that scope again. Sorry.
I'll get it to you I promise.
I just realised today was the day you were coming by, I had totally forgotten too!
(my higher torque one is a Draper from Halfrauds 😉 )
I Don't bother with one for cassette lock rings other than on very light rear hubs
Only thing that normal needs more than 15nm is the left hand crank bolt on single bolt systems ( sram ultra torque m970 etc )
Draper were ok, them went shite. Did a few years ago for Alsthom, failed them all and they replaced them.
I'm calibrating them to the British Standard, their get out clause is that they don't make them to the British Standard.
Slight high jack. What brands are good ?
Or in my case what's good in 3/4 drive
I'm surprised to hear how many seem to be inaccurate. How easy/expensive is it to get them re - calibrated? Mines a Super B 3-15nm BTW.
Draper were ok, them went shite.
Ah, mine's over 25 years old, is it likely to be better then?
I don't think I've ever done a cassette up to anything like 40nm. That's really very tight. They're serrated so very rarely rattle loose. What am I missing?
Or in my case what's good in 3/4 drive
You'd only need 3/4 drive for torquing up combine harvester wheel nuts. 😉
3/8 is what you are after
Well if you've not had one come loose then you're probably not missing anything - though I note you say "rarely" rather than "never". I figure they have that torque value for a reason, and it's just as easy to do it up to that as not.
I want the large one for the other halfs horse box ( iveco eurocargo )
I have a full selection for normal things already
But just wanted to know what was good before adding another red plastic box to the collection
But maybe I'd best not confuse things as I've now got bad images of a bb and a two foot long monster torque wrench
Yay.
I note you say "rarely" rather than "never".
In my student days I didn't own a chain whip so I didn't like cassettes tightened more than finger-tight otherwise they'd be impossible to get off. If they ever came loose on a ride (which happened at least once, hence "rarely"), I just tightened the lockring with my fingers. Ghetto meching style.
I bought a torque wrench that goes to 50Nm and it gets used for less than one hour a year (BB and cassette x 2). It's worth it to me to know that everything is torqued correctly
The 2-24Nm on the other hand is in regular use and hour for hour is far better value for money
I have more than 20 + years mechanical experience and I use one yes ,all you'll need is 1/4 drive one 3-15nm.
Get one. I just did a weltech course at Glenmore lodge and they are fanatical about using them. Made perfect sense to me, and gives a more pro feel to your spannering
If it's a cheap one for occasional use, get a bending beam one, not a snap-over one - no need to worry about calibrating the things.
But for 95% of bike stuff, a torque wrench is not necessary unless you've got no feel for tightness.
You'd only need 3/4 drive for torquing up combine harvester wheel nuts.
I use a 3/4" sliding T with a 1/2" step down to remove bottom brackets - real nice control.
I use one for frame pivots, stems, seatpost bolts and anything I've previously overtightened. Cassette and bb I just tighten up until tight, but not silly tight as I once cracked a hope freehub.
Thanks for all the replies. The general consensus seems that for the sake of just the cassette & BB a second TR is prob not worth it. So its spanner & feel for me! Interesting though about the accuracy issues with them. So I'll prob look to get my 3-15Nm one checked some time.