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Please recommend me a Torque Wrench suitable for mtb work at home
Norbar on Amazon, they're specialists in torque wrenches and are lovely tools. Get on that does low torques, mine does 2nm to 20nm which covers most things in on a bike.
lunge - Member
Norbar on Amazon, they're specialists in torque wrenches and are lovely tools. Get on that does low torques, mine does 2nm to 20nm which covers most things in on a bike.
Cheers Lunge
But which one 1/4" or 3/8"? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Norbar-13285-Torque-Wrench/dp/B00JEDOXN4
Cheap topeak bendy bar one does me for low torque stuff.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/topeak-combo-torq-wrench/rp-prod137802
Splash the cash here
http://www.toolstop.co.uk/norbar-77439.vel-premium-velotorque-cycle-torque-set-p73320
This works for me for 95% of bike stuff...
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/x-tools-essential-torque-wrench-set/rp-prod155414 ][/url]
Theres always one or two things (e.g. some BB's) where you might need a bigger torque wrench though.
But which one 1/4" or 3/8"?
Makes no odds, I’ve got the 3/8” as I had some sockets that size but there’s no difference in the 2 tools.
Got a norbar after a wiggle professional version broke causing a snapped bolt. Pick whichever size based on what size sockets etc you have?
Think about access. I've just treated myself to a Topeak strain gauge type as it has a 1/4" female head so I could get inside the swing arm to access some pivot bolts. Male head types just wouldn't get in there.
norbar - bought one a month ago. Fine tool it is! Didnt have enough trust in a cheap Chinese one. Carbon frames are not cheap to repair!
I have a 1/4 norbar but I'd go 3/8 given the chance again, it's more versatile for a range of applications. Also, the socket heads (should you buy a set) are likely to be 3/8 drive.
I have this set;
http://www.teng.co.uk/ttbs35-teng-tools-tc-tray-35-piece-1-4-and-3-8-drive-socket-bits-set.html
Most of the useful stuff is 3/8.
Just go 3/8" as wrecker said, range of easily available accessories is better.
I bought the chain reaction essentials one. I figure it may not be 100% accurate but it's better than just guessing with a normal tool. Only thing it doesn't do is torque reverse threads - which would be useful for the locking collets on my frame. No carbon in sight though.
Should I need any higher torque (I don't think I will) then I have a car torque wrench.
For a large range, get separate low and high torque wrenches as they're more accurate in their own ranges. Also most aren't that accurate at the low end of the scale. If it says 2Nm it could be a couple of Nm off. But then at that end, it's literally finger tight. Having snapped bolts at lower torques done to the torque spec, I just my fingers more than the wrench now.
High torques however I use the wrench as I'm frequently under torquing otherwise. e.g. 40Nm for a cassette lock ring or 40-50+ for GXP crank bolts. Have had stuff come loose by not doing them up enough.
Oh, and they need calibrating really. Regularly.
Oh, and they need calibrating really. Regularly.
They do if you're using them every day but if you're only using it once in a blue moon, just make sure it's wound off between uses.
I've got an MHH Engineering driver for use up to 6Nm, use it rarely and calibrate it yearly. It's never drifted more than 30% of tolerance in years.
Look after your tools and they will look after you.
Someone once suggested self calibrating. It's a simple distance time mass calculation. Then only worry if it needs adjusting.
Not sure how mine would get adjusted being digital strain gauge.