[Closed] Torque key / bit

Will you need to carry one? Headset adjustment is the most frequent need here and that will normally last a while with a check before every ride

silca make a nice set, but spendy. topeak make one too, less spendy. both are of the ratchet + bits variety.

If you want to carry it round, go for the JCool torque sleeve(s) for the crucial things you may need while riding, and an actual wrench such as X-Tools for work at home.

I can see the senario when this command post packs in and i have to bodge something mid trail for example (give me back my LEV) so id like the reassurance of one tbh.

the toppeak one looks awquard to use with the bits on top. Is it?

Or just don't worry about carbon and ride.

Headset adjustment just needs the same usual hand tighten by feel. Top bolt you're drawing up pressing top and bottom in a metal insert in the head tube anyway. You might have a carbon steerer though, but just don't go crazy. Do up stem bolts enough until stem doesn't move. I do the same with things I clamp to carbon bars.

I do have a torque wrench but for the low end I don't trust the wrench after snapping a bolt to spec. It may have been to do with thread lock changing the torque requirement or just wrench out of calibration. I'll use it occasionally but if I'm thinking, surely that's enough by now, then I stop!

Seatposts - if the post isn't carbon but frame is, I wouldn't worry too much as the post itself will prevent crushing the carbon from over torque. Unless you went really crazy. Even a carbon post will likely do the same as they're designed for the forces involved.

Bigger problem is alloy post in carbon frame and resultant bonding. Use carbon assembly paste on it.

In the last 20 years of riding carbon bikes, I can't think of a situation whilst out riding where I needed one - if your bike has been assembled correctly you shouldn't need it.  I check over my bike with a torque-key regularly - stem bolts and seat collar.

yup just me being paranoid.

however I own 4 calibrated torque wrenches for this reason 🙂

Seatposts – if the post isn’t carbon but frame is, I wouldn’t worry too much as the post itself will prevent crushing the carbon from over torque. Unless you went really crazy. Even a carbon post will likely do the same as they’re designed for the forces involved.

I think there was a carbon commons sense post from Santa Cruz along the same lines,

And that is the only bolt you will be doing up on the trail that might if you remove the post do some damage. Torque on pivots etc are more about getting the tension right but even then most people work with the most appropriate allen key/torx for the job.

I use a calibrated torque wrench at home. If something needs adjusting in the trail, I'll just make a mental note of how much I undo it and then put it back the same. I'll then check with the torque wrench once I get home.

I have the Topeak torque bits set. C<span style="font-size: 12.8px; line-height: 16.64px;">olour coded, </span><span style="font-size: 0.8rem; line-height: 1.3;">very light, portable, and seems well made. </span>

The only issue I would advise is that the click sound to tell you when you've reached the desired torque setting is not very loud, and with background noise such as by a busy roadside it could be easy to miss.

anyone got one of these? written up in Bicycling Australia mag' - google failed to find UK stockist but that just might be me, Super B's website lists as "new" but with less detail than this retailer (the righty tighty bit is useful not sure if the intended market really needs that bit?)

https://www.pushys.com.au/super-b-adjustable-torque-wrench-4-5-6nm.html

adjustable and with bits

don't think would take on bike but have a small "holiday" toolbox in car and if breaking down a bike to fly then would take with me