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If you're looking for something comparable but burlier or for longer travel, look at a Yelli Screamy. I have one and it's great but overbuilt for my use which is why I'm keeping an eye on the Fireline.
No Panic. I have got one in Skåne if you want a look at one. It is a nice bike.
Hi guys. I am about to buy titus fireline 29 er evo frame. Can somebody help me and tell me what is the bottom bracket height measured from the ground with 120 mm fork ? I have searched in the topic but i did not found this information. Thanks in advance.
i think it is 13" to centre
will check when i get home
My current frame is with 12" and it is too low for me. I want frame with higher bottom bracket. At least 12.5". If it is 13" this will be great. My finger is on the purchise button of titus, just waiting for your confirmation that it is 13". 🙂
macleod - on any bike, BB height is going to depend on what tires you run. That's why a lot of manufacturers quote BB drop (distance from center of BB to horizontal line between axles) instead as it takes tires out of the equation. But even BB drop will change with a taller or shorter fork...
Ok, on my current frame spec is written : bottom bracket drop 70MM. I have measured the bottom bracket height from ground. It is exactly 12" with 29x2.1 tyres and 100 mm fork.
I can not find online this information for the fireline 29 er evo. So does anybody know it ? I will ride it with 120 mm fork, 29x2.1 or 29x2.2 tires. I know that different 120 mm forks have slightly different axle to crown length, logical is also that tires size also changes bb height, but I need the bottom bracket height in average. I do not need precision to a millimeter.
It's 50mm with a 120mm fork.
Thanks, this is clear enough for me.
I have one more question regarding the headset. In the description in on-one site is written:
Headset: ZS44, EC49. Smoothie Mixer standard
I do not understand this numbers very well. Obviously it will fit with smoothie mixer headset, but will it fit with other tapered headset ?
Macleod, check out [url= http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/_repository/documents/HOPEHEADSETS2011Web.pdf ]this brochure[/url] by Hope, it explains the headset codes.
I have checked the brochure. So much new information for me. 🙂
So if I go for these one:
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/bg/en/hope-pick-n-mix-headsets-bottom-cup/rp-prod70727 ] headset [/url] I should select:
1. Upper headset option 2
2. Lower headset option D
Am I right ?
No, [url= http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/24/hsc_lower/hope-pick-n-mix-lower-headset-cups.html ]Lower cup F[/url] EC49 - External, 49mm
and
[url= http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/24/hsc_upper/hope-pick-n-mix-upper-headset-cups.html ]Upper Cup 2[/url] ZS44 - Zero Stack, 44mm
If you have a straight steerer and if you wanted a lower stack height you could go for a ZS49 as your head tube should accommodate it. Otherwise with a straight steerer and F/EC49 you'd also need the HS136 reducer.
However if you have a tapered steerer it's as dantsw13 says.
Also the Geometry is designed around a 15mm External Cup, so if you used a Zero Stack Lower Cup, the front end would be lower, and the HA steeper.
My loud, sorry for the delay
My bottom bracket on the large is 12 inches centre to floor
Lester
Ive just ordered forks/wheels/reverb, so hopefully get mine built before xmas!!
She is waiting for me in my workshop!
[img][url= http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3711/11404873903_763614ac25.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/76248110@N06/11404873903/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/76248110@N06/ ]danthomassw13[/url], on Flickr[/img]
Nice. Workshop looks far too organised 🙂
Only from that angle!!! I have actually just had an early "Spring Clean" in preparation for my new build!!
[img][url= http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2853/11406530456_c331c0df46.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/76248110@N06/11406530456/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/76248110@N06/ ]danthomassw13[/url], on Flickr[/img]
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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/76248110@N06/11406651033/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/76248110@N06/ ]danthomassw13[/url], on Flickr[/img]
Mine purchased too from the on - one site. I am planning a build with this fork:
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/bg/en/rockshox-sid-rct3-solo-air-forks-15mm-2014/rp-prod109680 ]fork[/url]
First I will ask the guys from CRC for its a2c length.
In the on - one site is written best result a2c - 526mm
If you can get them in 120 then they should have a 526 a2c.
Specs are all [url= http://www.sram.com/service/include-archived/rockshox/7,102,438 ]here on the SRAM website[/url]. Curiously they don't show the 120mm, but all the other 29er 120mm forks are 526, and the 100mm SID is 506, so assume the SID would be no different.
Edit...
Looking at the RockShox range I'm really not sure what I'd go for. You could go SID, Reba, Rev, or possibly a Pike on this frame (think there are examples of all here.) Seems to be a lot more overlap with their 29er forks.
Reba looks fine. I have one reba here. It has been extended from 100 mm to 120 mm with removing a spacer ( well actually it has extended to 110 mm ). I have measured its a2c and it is 530 right now. 🙂 Unfortunatelly I am not sure if my steer will be long enough. According to my measurements it is quite on the edge. If it fits I will reuse it, but if not I will go for the SID.
I have one more question. Does anybody know what is the height of hopes lower EC49 - External cup ? ( F option from this link ):
[url= http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/24/hsc_lower/hope-pick-n-mix-lower-headset-cups.html ]F cup[/url]
I have looked on hopes website for some info, but did not found.
Their conventional headset has a lower stack height of 14.1 mm and I'd assume that the 1.5 wouldn't be far that.
Many thanks for usefull information. I will post fotos with my build, when it is done. I am planning it for middle february to be fully complete.
Looking for some fit/sizing advice! Is anybody 175cm tall on a medium/18"? What size fireline is closest to a medium canfield?
I've previously owned a medium canfield yelli screamy, and currently have a 16"/small Kona Honzo. The Honzo is a little small, the canfield was just about right. Comparing the geometry charts between these bikes makes me think the fireline reach or top tube lengths are incorrect- either that or the reach is extremely short despite a steep seat angle and decent top tube length? Furthering my confusion is Brant's recommendation for a size small at my height- on paper that's smaller than my Kona (which is smaller than I'd like for longer rides, having owned ridden it for a year now). The 18" fireline looks pretty close to the medium yelli screamy, which is why I'm leaning that way. Only the head tube length worries me on the 18" fireline.
I'm 175cm tall, my saddle height is 74cm from center of BB to top of saddle. 760/20mm bars and 50mm stems on all my bikes.
Here's some numbers from the geometry charts- note the reach #'s vs TT lengths-wtf
Reach
Titus Fireline Evo 29 18": 15.3"
Canfield Yelli Screamy Med: 16.18" / 411mm
Kona Honzo 16" : 16" / 406mm
Top tube length
Titus Fireline Evo 29 18": 23.6"
Canfield Yelli Screamy Med: 23.75" /564mm
Kona Honzo 16" : 23" / 584mm
Head tube:
Titus Fireline Evo 29 18": 4.7" / 120mm
Canfield Yelli Screamy Med: 4.3 / 110mm
Kona Honzo 16" : 3.5" / 89mm
By the way, I've also posted on MTBR.
Appreciate any thoughts.
I'm not up on reach and stack, I ride a medium Yelli and am looking at the Fireline too. I'm a tad shorter than you, height is a very rough benchmark for bike fit though I think.
ETT on a medium Yelli is 23.75 inches, and 23.7(0?) on a Fireline 18".
I'd buy the 18" for myself, especially since I like running a short stem.
What's concerning you re the head tube?
Ah so the top of the HT is going to be about 10mm higher on the Fireline than your Yelli, is that right? As long as you had at least 10mm of height you could lose from your Yelli by taking spacers out or running flat bars or flipping the stem, I think you'd be OK.
ps it's just possible I've ruined my Yelli frame with mechanical incompetence, I'd buy another if they weren't so damned expensive in the UK. Is that your thought process too?
pps selling your Honzo?
Thanks Matt, thats encouraging.
I've grown to trust reach/stack more than ST/TT length, since it removes seat angle from the equation.... and seat angle is funky on a lot of these 29'ers. But supposedly it's 73 on both the yelli and FLE, so maybe the 18 FLE would fit like a medium YS. I'm just hoping to avoid any surprises since there's no possibility of a test ride... and the fireline reach numbers seem off.
Based off the planet-x fit chart, height puts me on a 16, inseam puts me on an 18. If I could go custom I'd split the difference, as I know 17"ST/23.25" ETT is perfect for me. You're right about the bars, I could just run flat bars to get them lower.
I am in the states, not much info on the fireline over here. Yes, the honzo will go up for sale, it's super fun but a little small and a little stiff&heavy for me. Looking for more epic-xc friendly ride. The yelli was perfect and the fireline looks promising!
what'd you do to your YS? BB or headtube damage?
It's really just the geometry charts posted that have me second guessing.
The reach numbers are 1"+ shorter than other similar bikes with comparable top tube lengths.
Also noticed the static geometry lists the same head tube length for 16 & 18" frames, while the "ride height"geometry shows them as being .4" different. Looking at photos the 18" def has a taller head tube.
Fireline Evo stats...
16in has 110mm head tube
18in has 120mm head tube
20in has 125mm head tube
Seat angle is 72deg static.
Ah you're in the US, to be honest if I could pay US price for a Yelli I'd probably just buy another (import duty and tax means they come out more like the equivalent of nearly 1400 USD bought in the UK, the FLE is cheaper).
A loose chainring bolt gouged about 1.5mm out of the chain stay plate on my Yelli, I have an email into Canfield to see what they say, no response yet but it was only yesterday, mail if you want a pic (mail in profile).
I like the flat bars, I find rolling them forwards a couple of degrees increases comfort a lot.
Sizing's always a bit of a punt for sure, I'm not an FLE owner so can't give an answer from experience. If I get to ride one I'll let you know.
Thanks Brant. Do you reckon I'd be OK on the 18"?
By the way- regarding my small kona honzo- the reach is OK, 16" seat tube is pretty short for my saddle height, but I find the wheelbase a bit short for higher speed rough trails. That is part of why I am leery of going too small again.
For a fun trail bike I'd go for a 16in. If you want something a bit more steady, then the 18in would be OK.
Thank you Brant
yay Canfield say my Yelli is sound. Purchase of titanium goodness postponed, and daughter's pocket money is safe for another year.
Any of your guys know the total weight on a Fireline built by on-one ?
follow up... michael at Titus/ Planet-X USA was super helpful today and took some measurements for me. Basically confirmed the 18" is the size I am looking for (it's actually got a similar front-center/reach to my small kona honzo) so the 16" fireline would be shorter than I am looking for.
good news, are you going to order? (& does it differ much from a M Yelli?)
Yep, ordered last night (happy holidays to me LOL).
I had michael measure from the center of the BB to the center of the head tubes bottom edge. The 16" fireline came up 1" shorter than my small Kona Honzo. The 18" fireline came in with the same number as my other medium/17" banshee 29, which fits perfect. Of course this isn't a great way to measure front-center but it gave me the info I was looking for.
Ill post a pic up after the holidays, when I get 'er built!
Im having a bit of a brake adapter faff.
What adapter for a 180 rotor on the rear with a PM brake?
Crap photos, but finally built!
[img][url= http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5521/11672818994_9c4c965109.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/76248110@N06/11672818994/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/76248110@N06/ ]danthomassw13[/url], on Flickr[/img]
And finally ready to ride.
[img][url= http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7330/11818842846_b8e27d0c24.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/76248110@N06/11818842846/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/76248110@N06/ ]danthomassw13[/url], on Flickr[/img]
I wasn't happy with the tyre clearance from the cable with a conventional mech, so I got the Direct Mount Clamp from On-One and went full length outer cable to a Direct mount front mech.
Only a road test so far - first ride tonight!!
Awesome work you'll love it!
Well, first ride done!! Possibly the wettest, muddiest, boggiest ride I've ever had, but the bike performed admirably!! Plenty of traction, front end tracked as well as could be hoped for in the conditions, fork worked really nicely.
It is my first 29er, and my first Ti bike, and its a combo that I like!! It really felt like a half way house between a HT and a FS, with the Ti frame taking the edge off the rear end bumps.
No mud clearance issues at all, although its so wet out there, I expect it to be more of an issue as the ground dries out a little (If it ever does!!);.
Just got one after the recent discounts. Seat tube seems a little baggy with the post knocking slightly unless clamp cranked tight. I seem to remember this being mention before :-S
Sugnificant issue or potential fixes?
It's with an SDG I beam post.
good looking bike Dan, ride it hard
Mine's built up, I've got a few rides in and I'm super happy.
No fit or quality issues, frame was as good as I could have hoped for.
[url= http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/titus-fireline-evo-29-review-894036.html#post10918098 ]Full review here[/url]
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The baggy seat tubes were only supposed to be an issue on the earlier batch, so I'd be returning it. Mine is nice and tight on 2 different seatposts.
You are using a 30.6 post???????
Mine's built up, I've got a few rides in and I'm super happy.
Thanks for the write up, I'm a medium Yelli rider too.
Do you not notice the slightly longer chainstays of the Fireline? That's my major concern in moving away from the Yelli.
Im pretty sure the only reason the Yelli has longer chain stays is the more relaxed seat tube, and the fact that the bb is behind the seat tube/downtube junction.
Given the tight clearance on the Fireline, the actual distance from the bb to rear axle is as short as you can get. It manuals easily, and is very manoeuvrable.
Yeah maybe, not all measurements are like for like.
Yelli, Honzo, Zealous Division etc all have significantly shorter chain stays than the Fireline. Offset (Yelli) Curved (Honzo) and split (Division) seat tube accommodates the short stays.
Fireline is tight for clearance maybe, but short - no.
depends how they're measured.
some companies just measure the length of the chainstay.
some companies measure the horizontal distance between the BB and the rear axle, and then state this as the 'chainstay length' - it's cheating a little, and it makes a frame sound more fashionable.
the titus is measured the honest way, 17.1"/434mm is pretty bloody short.
of course bikes are available with shorter chainstays, but crossing the fireline off your list for it's 'long chainstays' is a bit daft.
some companies measure the horizontal distance between the BB and the rear axle, and then state this as the 'chainstay length' - it's cheating a little, and it makes a frame sound more fashionable.
but with regards to handling it's probably the dimension that matters, i.e. "effective chainstay" rather than "actual chain stay".
Yelli is quoted as 424 "effective", Fireline is 434mm "actual" so would be a few mm less effective, I've forgotten the sin/cosin maths I learnt at school to work it out.
But I suppose I could just measure my Yelli! So I did that, I'd agree with the 424mm effective and maybe 427mm actual, give or take a mm or 2.
Honzo 415mm actual
Division 419m actual
Looks like Yelli figures may be horizontal (I'll measure my mate's…)
Genesis High Latitude and Fortitude have 435mm actual c/stay length.
All the above have significantly lower BB's too.
Fireline is a but ho-hum. tall BB, tall headtube, short front centres (relative to all the above). For something that wants to be seen as new school, seems to me it's very much not.
Added to that the questionable build quality and the Planet X factor - it's never going to be on my shopping list.
Looks like Yelli figures may be horizontal (I'll measure my mate's…)
Yes http://canfieldbrothers.com/frames/yelli-screamy
No need I measured mine, see ^^, 120mm fork unweighted.
dantsw13, what front mud guard is that? Does it work OK on the manitou tower, please?
Cheeky Monkey - Is your post baggy when near its max mark, ie with the end of the post ~100mm into the frame? If so, thats what all three of my frames have been like, though the current one (from this latest batch) is better than the pervious two. You'll find (or I did) that if you have more post in the frame it stops being baggy (basically the seat tube has an hourglass internal shape due to the welding). I "solved" the issue by buying a 450mm long post so I get a good 6inch insertion. Be careful if you just crank up the seat clamp or shim the post. I did that on frame number 1 and cracked the seat tube at the end of the post.
You are using a 31.6mm post though, right?
Canefrog - its a Muckynutz Bender FenderXL. Its installed backwards due to the Rear arch on the Manitou. It has at least 10mm clearance all round on the Manitou with a Smorgasbord tyre, which is quite a big 2.25. I think it would handle a 2.35 fine, which is pretty good, considering the arch on the Tower Pro isn't huge.
If anybody needs a ride on an 18" Fireline to have a feel for it, Im in East Sussex, but get about a bit in the SE.
Thanks for the write up, I'm a medium Yelli rider too.Do you not notice the slightly longer chainstays of the Fireline? That's my major concern in moving away from the Yelli.
Overall- I find the fireline to wheelie/manual easier than the Yelli, but not as easy as the Honzo.
Don't pay attention to the whingers that get all bent out of shape on chainstay length. Here is the truth:
The fireline has a "normal" (i.e. slacker) effective seat tube angle compared to the yelli/Honzo. If the fireline chainstays are long, why is the seat tube so close to the rear tire? It's pretty obvious these chainstays are as short as you can get without making a compromise somewhere else.
In terms of what makes a bike easy to manual/wheelie/slash corners, chainstay length is not the only factor. The fireline has a relatively short wheelbase, slacker seat tube and a tall head tube, things which help make it easy to get the front end up or snap out of corners.
Having owned all three, the FIreline feels in between the Honzo and the Yelli, which is what I was hoping for. The Honzo was super playful, quick and easy to manual but lacked stability on fast rocky trails. I liked the Yelli better, but the fireline is little easier to manual for me with the shorter reach and slacker seat angle. Ride quality and weight wise the Fireline is the best of the three. If you like the medium Yelli the 18" Fireline will feel very similar. Lighter, more compliant, a bit shorter reach when out of the saddle, and a bit less standover.
On my Honzo, I had moved the sliding drop-outs back to 16.75"/425mm to add some stability on fast rocky trails. Helped, but still the stiff back worked against the bike in these conditions. IMO 425-430mm is the sweet spot- look at the chromag and ROS9- both in this range along wiht the fireline.
Perfect? Not quite for me- only because I would prefer a 17" size option. And 142x12 drop-outs. But I am very happy with this frame.
as for the seat tube, I've fit both a 31.6 syncros and a 30.9 Kindshock i950, with a problem solvers shim. Both fit perfectly with no slop regardless of insertion depth.
^^ thanks for the detailed write up and thoughts.
Dan - yes please am in 'Surrey Hills'.
A couple of things - re c/stays, the chain stay length on it's own is only one factor, but combined with other factors like BB drop, reach, stack and FC length it tells a story.
The tyre on a Fireline is close to the seat tube because it's about as short as one can reasonably go without either having a crazy steep ST angle, or manipulating the seat tube (Fortitude), curving the seat tube (Honzo, Buzzard, High Latitude) or splitting it (Division). It's reasonably short, like the Genesis bikes, but not as short as the others. I'm not getting hung up on that one dimension - simply clarifying something.
What makes the Fireline easier to manual isn't shorter chain stays, but rather a combination of higher BB, higher hand position and shorter reach (for similar frame sizes). ST angle has no effect as you're not seated when manualing. Short reach yes, slack ST - no.
Email - your Honzo was a 16" right? FL is an 18"? Stability due to overall wheelbase rather than anything else.
Sounds like you're between sizes on a Honzo, and a 17" FL might get skitty again due to a shorter wheelbase.
Hey sillyoldman, right on....couple of thoughts
ST angle has no effect as you're not seated when manualing. Short reach yes, slack ST - no.
Strictly for manualing down the street, sure. But situations like a wheelie drop in the middle of a flattish pedaly technical trail…wheelie-drops off flat wood....or trying to keep the front end down on a steep climb… basically any situation where you’re trying to get the front end up/ keep it down while seated- in those situations seat angle makes just as much difference as chainstay length in the "wheelie-ability"- so I always consider it.
Email - your Honzo was a 16" right? FL is an 18"? Stability due to overall wheelbase rather than anything else.
Sounds like you're between sizes on a Honzo, and a 17" FL might get skitty again due to a shorter wheelbase.
Fitwise, yes I had a 16” Honzo and a medium yelli screamy. I agree the short wheelbase was largely what didn’t work for me on the 16” Honzo (and that’s why I didn’t buy a 16” Fireline). The interesting thing is comparing the top tube and reach numbers between all these frames- the fireline has a very short reach (given similar top tube lengths) compared to the Honzo/Yelli. In fact, the 20” Fireline has similar reach to the 16” Honzo- even though the top tube lengths are consistently similar at the same sizes! When I held the 18” Fireline up against my small honzo frame, the bottom of the head tube and drop-outs actually lined up pretty close… but the BB on the fireline was further forward and the slacker seat tube which makes the ETT longer. This was with the Honzo drop-outs slid back to 16.75” which helped tame the high-speed nervousness. The fireline is also a hair slacker with the same fork.
I saw Brant mention a custom fireline option. The wheelbase/reach/TT of the 18”, but with a 17” seat tube and shorter head tube (like the 16”) would be ideal for me. But the 18” fits & handles great with flat bars and no spacers.
Hi guys,
I am building my titus now. I have problem with my front mech, which I can not mount. Seems not enough clearance.
Now I need to buy a more compact front mech. I am looking at this one:
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/bg/en/shimano-xt-m786-conventional-2x10-front-mech/rp-prod67203 ]front mech[/url]
It looks more compact according to mine. Takes less space from the tyre clearance. I have following 2 questions:
1. Do you know if this mech will work fine with 2.1, 2.2,5 rear tyre on titus 20" ?
2. Do you know if it is compatible with sram 2x10 front shifter
Thanks in advance.
Macleod, look at my pic at the top of the page - I recommend getting a Direct Mount Front Mech, with a DM adapter from On-One. You can then run Full Outer Cable to the front mech, without using the cable guide on the seat tube.
You can also use a hacksaw to remove the bottom pull arm from the mech, as per the instructions earlier in this thread.
I'm very happy with this setup, with loads of clearance using a 2.25 smorgasbord.
I don't think SRAM shifters are supposed to be compatible with Shimano mechs, but they may work. Front shifters are widely available in the classifieds from 1x10 convertees.
[img][url= http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3748/11934731103_ced09bb0ea_c.jp g" target="_blank">
Covered in cr@p but not clogged up at all.
I can not see much from the system, because of the dirt. In all cases it was a good ride. 🙂
Is it necessary to be adaptor from on-one ?
Maybe this one can do the job too:
[url= http://www.ebay.com/itm/System-EX-Front-Mech-Adapter-Derailleur-Braze-on-Clamp-Mount-Bracket-/400470921102?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item5d3ded4f8e ]adaptor[/url]
How big is your tire on the last photo ?
No the one in the link is a braze on adapter, not Direct Mount.
My setup is the one used by Rorschach on P9 of this thread, except he used the Problemsolvers adapter which is £35, and I used the O-O one which is £9.99, but almost identical.
The tyre was a 2.25 smorgasbord, which is fairly meaty.
If I get a chance to clean it after the ride tomorrow, ill take a piccy.
[url= http://on-one.co.uk/i/q/FSTITEGMC/el_guapo_hdm_mech_clamp ]On one clamp[/url]
The on-one clamp is really nice, but with the 20 pounds delivery to my country/city - Bulgaria/Sofia it will come to the price of a new mech hanger. And I was not clever enough to purchase one clamp with the frame. 🙁
I will search tomorrow for a direct mount adaptor in the local shops here. They should have some. I also have a direct mount front mech. So I need only the correct adaptor.
Thanks for the info.
[img][url= http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5541/12030345846_992a3d588b_c.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/76248110@N06/12030345846/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/76248110@N06/ ]danthomassw13[/url], on Flickr[/img]
For me, the biggest issue was the closeness of the cable from the seat tube cable stop to the front mech, so the ability to run full outer was the key.
Thanks for pic. I did not succeed to find such adaptor here. I want to check one more shop tommorrow ( today it is not working, because it is Sunday ). And if they do not have, I will purchase this clamp too.
For me, the biggest issue was the closeness of the cable from the seat tube cable stop to the front mech, so the ability to run full outer was the key.
Why what is the problem with that ?
Ah... You mean that the tire will rubber into the cable ?
Well, I'm on my second frame already.
Dropped my "baggy" seat tube'd one in on Friday and Lee in the workshop checked it and agreed the 2mm oversize was out of tolerance. Replacement frame will be in the post any day.
No hassle or troubles dealing with On One and changed without quibble. Fingers crossed for secondtime lucky 😎
I already have the bike built and ready to ride. I just need to put my direct mount front mech, but I am waiting for the adaptor [url= http://on-one.co.uk/i/q/FSTITEGMC/el_guapo_hdm_mech_clamp ]mech clamp[/url] to arrive from on-one stores. I also noticed that maybe the seat tube is oversized, but I do not have any problems with that. I am using a thomson seatclamp with bolt. So I tighten the bolt and everything is fine for me. Maybe there will be a problem with qr seatclamps. It will be harder to tighten them, but I prefer seatclamps with bolts, so I am completely ok with the seattube. The bike is very nice and very comfortable. I am riding 1x10 now ( well until my clamp arrives so I can put my front mech ). I do not like 1x10. Too few gears for me. 🙂
Has anyone successfully installed the FSA Orbit E 1.5 lower headset as mentioned by JaIIII on page 12 of this thread.
I have the 20" with the massive head tube and want to fit some 140mm tapered forks without raising the front end any higher, so that 15mm lower cup has to go. At 120mm with flat bars slammed it is as high as if not higher than Is ideal already.
It appears it is only available in the states, and the UK importers Windwave seem confused that such a headset even exists or is possible.
Any other options? this appears to be the only headset of it's type.
Think I looked into it but the catch is the loose ball bearings (depending on how you feel about them).
Don't think they were silly pricey so maybe just buy direct from the states and ship over.
Be interesting to see how they compare.