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Before I head out on the newly built SS for the first time (probably over the weekend) what top tips do people have for getting the best out of it / things to check before I do?
Also any pros/cons of SPD's vs. Flats? Generally ride in SPDs.
It's a 26er hardtail set up with 32:17/DMR tensioner and 100mm fork set up fairly stiff if that's relevant.
Ta
don't worry, don't hurry and don't forget to stop and sniff the flowers.
simple speed for simple folk
pedal
pedal harder
freewheel
repeat
It's just like riding a bike.
Spd's are the difference between riding and walking a lot of the time.Stiff soled shoes,wide handlebars and a man sized portion of rule 5 will all help immensely.
It takes a while to 'get it' sometimes.
There's no shame in pushing.
The dull ache in the front of your thighs WILL go away eventually.
Downhills are for resting.
Flat bits are for looking at the scenery and eating.
More rule 5.
can I just check, is rule 5 "cry like a little girl"?
if it is I've got that bit well sorted
If it is then there was plenty of it going on today, not been on the mtb for a while (too much roadificating) and 60 odd km's had me wondering there for a bit.
Cheers, sounds like I'm not missing something really fundamental in terms of approach.
I'm a big gear masher normally on the flat and gentle downward stuff so improving my flexibility and spinning skills is part of the reason for giving it a go and hoping the years of big gear riding will help on the ups. Also I love the idea of the extra simplicity and hate cleaning South Downs muck out of my cassette.
sounds like a sensible ratio to start with.
as above the flats/downs become more of a gentle pootle (unless you really fancy a 170rpm cadence) get used to this and it saves your legs for the bigger climbs.
clip in and don't be afraid to get up and grunt on the ups work on your breathing too sounds simple but far too many let it go to pot on climbs.
stiff fork or rigids will help on many climbs...
enjoy...
Cheers, sounds like I'm not missing something
I've got that bit sorted. 😉
Has anyone mentioned growing a beard and wearing your sister's jeans yet?
My top tip is don't do it. The gearing is too low for climbing and too high for decending, its not quite as good an idea as it sounds.
Remember there are really three gears: sat down, stood up and pushing.
A few years ago I thought there was no point having one anywhere hilly but I am not particularly fit (bottom 25% in xc races unfit) and I still regularly manage 30-mile/1000m climbing schleps over dartmoor on 34/17, or 16 if I am feeling fit... Wide bars are good for really grunty climbs as are grips that stay put and gloves with good solid palms (troy lee SE look really OTT, but the proper leather palm is great for hauling on the bars all day)
Cleaning/maintenance is nice, you can flip your cog and chainring round for double the lifespan, but be prepared to wear our cleats and freehubs (if you are using a normal hub with cogs and spacers) a lot quicker though. Personally I like a bar mounted lockout rather than rigid fork.
Attack climbs, stop at pie shops, don't even cover the brakes when descending.
Pump that trail! You can't cheat by pedalling down, so getting your flow on and pumping keeps the speed up.
Don't be afraid to walk (at least uphill).
If there's a hill you struggle on work out where you stopped and next time you ride it go another 2 or 3 bike lengths before you get off. And repeat.
climbing is generally an exercise in bloody mindedness, tbh, and long ones that are just a bit too hard to do sat down are the worst.
Be prepared to hate it at first. Stick with it for a good few rides while you build strength and improve your breathing. Remember to really attack hills, get out in front of your mates as being stuck behind someone who's slowly grinding up is worst of all. Don't forget your new 3 gears, and don't be shy about using them.
You'll find new challenges in moderating power on technical or slippy climbs, and keeping up on flats. In return you'll get more strength and improved breathing, a smoother riding style and a simpler more rewarding experience.
Attack. Attack. Attack. Use momentum, generated well in advance, to get you up the ups. Get out the saddle in plenty of time to get the right pace to carry up the climbs.
Wide bars is a good tip. I couldn't imagine yanking little diddy xc bars all day.
Downhills are for resting.
Crosses singlespeeding off the MTB things to try list...
This is my first winter on a SS and although I have two geared bikes, I keep riding it... Admittedly, I only do shorter, local loops at the mo.
But it's weirdly addictive.
Nobody has mentioned your forearms. You'll need bigger forearms to go with your bigger legs. Or that could just be my hairdressers arms 🙂
I settled on 32/18 because I found the local techy/grunty stuff too hard to clean.
Downhills are for resting.
I disagree. Resting time is at the top of the hills while you wait for your mates.
Downhill technique involves getting as much speed as you can from the terrain by making better line choices, pumping and laying off the brakes. You can do this a bit better because at the top of the descent you're not pondering gear choice, and you know you'll want to keep some speed to help get up the climb at the other end.
don't do it for this
improving my flexibility and spinning skills is part of the reason for giving it a go and hoping the years of big gear riding will help on the ups.
do it for this
Also I love the idea of the extra simplicity and hate cleaning South Downs muck out of my cassette.
[i]There's no shame in pushing.[/i]
And based on a few rides this last week in the snow, you'll be doing a lot of that...
Prepare to get hooked!
I went singlespeed because I grew impatient of Shimano delaying the delivery of the Alfine 11 speed for my new build. A couple of months later when the shop called to say the Alfine was in I told them I was sticking with singlespeed.
Don't be afraid to experiment with different gear ratios.
And don't be surprised when then the opposite sex start finding you more attractive
Go for a really tough climb early on in your first ride. After that lesser climbs seem quite easy. As said before look well down the trail and build up a bit of momentum when you see a climb coming. Even if you have to get off and walk you'll still probably be first to the top. It's not the most sociable way to ride a bike though.
What Rickos said ^
Don't go for a long flat ride, thinking it'll break you in gently. You'll get bored very quickly! I guess that applies to any bike, but it's worse on a SS.
And, yes, it's just a bike.
check and double check your chain is well joined and not going to break the first time you put the power down!
Look to conserve momentum it makes the climbs easier and keeps speed up on the down. It isn't any slower on anything but the easiest of downhills. Sprint at the start then just stay of the brakes, I have no trouble keeping up with geared riders on most stuff that is tight and/or twisty.
On steeper climbs you need to find grip, look ahead and plan.
It is cheaper to change a rear sprocket than a front one. 32 or 34 on the front and 16-20 on the back depending on fitness/style and terrain
2:1 is the most common ratio for 26" wheels.
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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/takisawa2/6845779287/ ]IMAG0213[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/takisawa2/ ]pten2106[/url], on Flickr
...is all you need.
😉
Tazzy...spot on mate!!!
😀
As said above, momentum is your friend.
My other tips: Take a book along for any long flat bits. Don't be embarrassed to fit bar ends. Don't be too self conscious to run a gear that suits you rather than what other people run.
Thanks all. I'm not allowed a beard and my feet are too ugly for sandals. Hopefully be giving it a test run at the weekend or early next week.
takisawa2 how are you finding the wonkey?
Finish the job and go fixed.
Flat bits on SS are ok if you have a harder gear. I like 34-16 or 14. Makes the climbs a bit more of a challenge but I like it 🙂
Gear for the hills NOT the flats 😉
Tom-If you can get up them in 34-14 they're inclines not climbs.
Tazzy, ace mate. It is indeed like cheating. 🙂
I'm sold on them.
Will they do a Ti version do you think... 🙂
Tom-If you can get up them in 34-14 they're inclines not climbs.
True, I do live in the East Midlands where we don't have proper hills. Last time I went to cannock (I know, still not that hilly but its about the most climbing I'll do on a mtb usually) on my ss I found 32-16 was ok but too easy on certain bits. I'd do the climbs a lot easier now as I was quite unfit back then. 34-16 is a good compromise, think it's the 26" equivalent to the magic ratio of 44-16 on a bmx 🙂
Will they do a Ti version do you think
yep I'm talking to 'em at the moment about getting some fully pimped Ti versions 😀