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Anyone else have this? Ever?
After a particularly long descent on my new Sonder Camino Ti on Sunday, the rear through axle had unwound itself about 5mm. Quite a scary thought.
Its a stealth hex head fitting and i'm confident id nipped it up properly.
Threadlock?
I’d avoid threadlock. You 100% sure you torqued it up enough?
I've had it happen on a couple of bikes. Canyon Spectral and the DT Swiss axle on my Nomad. I just checked it before each ride and it didn't seem to happen again. If you don't need to remove the rear wheel often, the maybe threadlock is not a bad idea.
It shouldn't be unscrewing itself. Is it well greased?
our Sworks has to be done up pretty tight and i'm fairly convince my lad will never get it off if he's out on the trails.... but not sure there's a lot i can do about it.
I had it happen on the (DTSwiss?) axle on my Jeffsy once. I then looked into how tight they should be done and now just tighten it to death and it doesn't budge any more. Really does take quite a heave to do it right up.
Hmmmm i'm pretty sure i'd nipped it up properly, but this is now becoming a bit of a "did i leave the gas on?" in my head. Will get the torque wrench on it and see how i get on.
Seems a bit odd that the rotation of the wheel is able to unscrew it regardless. Seems like a design flaw somehow.
i found my bootzipper had unscrewed the other day.
I let my 4 year old do it up, but i thought i had gone over it and nipped it before i set off (in fact i know i did cause now i think about it it had a full turn left on it)
Didn't consider it scary, maybe i should have done, but re nipped it and its been fine since.
Not sure if i would prefer a locking lever type, to a straight up bolt. presumably they are sided so that under normal progresion they should tighten, rather than loosen.
My mates 2017 reign does this, apparently its well known amongst reigns. He knows when it happens because the shifting starts playing up.
I had it on my kids bike, it was down to superstar/novatec hub end caps not being done up tight enough and the bearing locks so rotated the axle. Full disassembly and regrease of hub and proper reassembly fixed it.
If only there was a way to attach a wheel using some sort of 'quick release' skewer that wouldn't unscrew as the wheel turned... perhaps a universal design that was common to all wheels and frames, so you didn't have to negotiate a minefield of thread pitches and lengths when sourcing a replacement... it's the future, I tell you.
Seems a bit odd that the rotation of the wheel is able to unscrew it regardless. Seems like a design flaw somehow.
Disc brake forces twists the fork legs against each other, disc side working against the non-disc side produces an anti-clockwise force on the bolt. Same thing can happen with QRs.
I prefer the DT RWS type of TA, can be done up fairly hard w/o worrying about jamming or rounding something.
the axle on my sorks frame has to be super tight. Its ridiculous. (about 20nm)
My old DT Swiss rws had a nut on the end so you effectively had a locknut to stop it unwinding
I don't actually know what the torque spec is for my (Al) Camino's rear axle. But it's the one bit of that bike I'm not enamoured with. I've never had it unscrew but the axle is made of cheesy alu and the bolt head isn't nearly deep enough. I feel like I have to be really careful tightening it.
Seems a bit odd that the rotation of the wheel is able to unscrew it regardless. Seems like a design flaw somehow.
I would have thought it was like pedal axles and BB's. They come loose by precession not friction.
What's the torque on it supposed to be? I'm sure the one on my Scandal was just nipped up. But then I suppose some might be torqued enough that friction holds them in, and others are giving a torque that actually puts the 12mm bolt under propper tension or just shy of stripping the threads.
I would have thought it was like pedal axles and BB’s. They come loose by precession not friction.
Unless it's not been greased perhaps? I was wondering if a dry bearing might result in an unscrewing action. I'll think about it while I'm out on a ride 🙂
mine did this when the wheel bearings were just about shot.
Bit of a bug bear of mine, noticed that mine was occasionally coming loose, but was only in the nipping it up camp, and tbf hadn't RTFM that was done up a lot tighter.
This would be fine, except the alloy hex head just isn't upto the job of the torque you need to apply to the axle, so regardless of how careful you are it seems to get shredded.
Needs a steel head/insert imo....
Changed to a DT one with a leaver attached and no problems since, but a bit less tidy....
Unless it’s not been greased perhaps? I was wondering if a dry bearing might result in an unscrewing action. I’ll think about it while I’m out on a ride 🙂
Perhapse you're right, the load from hub drag on the axle is circumferential, not radial & rotating like a pedal or BB.
jameso
Full Member
Disc brake forces twists the fork legs against each other, disc side working against the non-disc side produces an anti-clockwise force on the bolt.
The same would happen even with a reversed thread every time you released the brake though. In the same way as any nut/bolt will tend to undo over time when subject to some sort of vibration/cyclical loading.
I've had the same once. It turned out the "top hat" spacer on the rear axle wasn't fully tightened which in turn meant the axle wasn't.
My Scandal did this the other day. Never had it happen on any other system before so I assumed it's just a freak one off thing. Normally have the wheels on and off to clean or get in the car.
Di9sc brake wheels unscrew qrs thru[precessional forces. Processional forces work in the opposite way to wheel rotation. Obviously if its a seizing bearing it will move in the wheel direction so the OP can work out which it is by which way its unscrewing