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new set of wheels that aren't very round, how am I supposed to sort them out when the spoke just twists and springs the nipple back to where it was before
does no one think of these things?
My possibly controversial view is that if you need to put anything on your nipples you're doing it wrong.
Had this on a pair of road wheels. Resorted to heating the nipple before holding the (bladed) spoke with pliers and turning the nipple with a decent wrench. Aggrevating to say the least.
alas the spokes here aren't bladed, but maybe heat on its own could be enough
I think I'm going to just send them back actually
I'd have sent them back anyway if brand new wheels needed truing
I'm with Ben on this. Always thought it was a work around for poorly built wheels.
Although don't DT do some proloc nipples with this essentially built in? Not sure as I've never built with them though.
I do like a drop of oil on my nipples, but that's all. They're easy enough to damage if you're not careful, even without threadlock
My possibly controversial view is that if you need to put anything on your nipples you're doing it wrong.
Modern teaching says a light oil. Chain oil is perfect.
This keeps the threads from seizing and makes the nipple easier to turn under tension as the spoke doesn't wind up with each turn. I've been doing exactly this since I started building wheels and it's a pleasure to get one of my own back to work on as I know it'll be a breeze to work on. 🙂
But thread lock isn't needed, no.
Although don't DT do some proloc nipples with this essentially built in? Not sure as I've never built with them though.
DT Prolock. I used to have some wheels with it on (before I built my own) . It doesn't stop the nipples turning like, say, a seized ally nipple will do, but you're aware it's there. Again, now I now more I wouldn't bother.
Id agree with Atlaz, if they are new and not very round then send them back!
Im with you on this Ben i was always taught if you need to put anything on your nipples you are doing it wrong.
My spokes usually have some oil on them anyway from the thread rolling - but brass is self-lubricating so I don't bother adding extra oil if the spokes don't have it. The only time I've used the Prolock nipples was on the front wheel of an electric tandem tricycle which was getting huge loads - had the spokes very tight but with such short spokes there wasn't so much stretch in them to prevent loosening of the nipples.
I've never heard a good explanation as to why a nipple would unscrew itself, surely it needs some kind of turning force. In my experience Its more likely to be the spoke heads bedding in to the hub causing looseness.
I had this with a set of hope wheels- threadlock and to make things worse straight pull spokes. So the spokes didnt just torque up and eventually give way they just span for ever.
When I came to replace the rim.I found mole grips worked really well to hold the spoke dead straight while undoing the nipple. Doesn't mark the spoke as much as you might think.
Scraped all the nasty stuff off before putting back together - and never choosing straight pull again.
the propriatory wheels that are alu to alu - mavic ksyrium elites etc ....
use weak threadlock to allow removal but not provide lubricity like copperslip will. - create a protective coating between the alu and prevent corrosion when waters introduced.
normal brass spokes - dont need owt , some tf2 maybe if im feeling generous.
alu nipples - i would suggest a light threadlock again.
not all threadlock is equal - normal use is 243 - do not use this on spokes , the break over torque is too high to re adjust wheels once its cured.
how ever if you come across an idiot who has - light heat will melt it.