Threading gear cabl...
 

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[Closed] Threading gear cable outer and brake lines through a frame.

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Evening all,

Looking for some pointers please.

I've never had a frame with internal cable routing before, and simply cannot get the gear outer through the swingarm (Commencal meta 4x).

I've seen lots of videos on replacing cables, but this has nothing in situ to aid me.

Any advice before I swallow my pride and pay somebody to do it?


 
Posted : 04/12/2015 8:40 pm
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Inner gear cable through the frame, look into the lower hole with a torch and get a J Bend Spoke and pull it through the hole. Then thread the outer through the frame over the inner.

Or, inner through the frame and a really strong magnet can do the job


 
Posted : 04/12/2015 8:42 pm
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You got any wire coathangers?


 
Posted : 04/12/2015 8:51 pm
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Never had an internally routed frame, but have thought that you could do it this way (if there is already a cable in place)

Detach derailleur end of inner and remove end cap from outer. Insert inner into end of new outer. Slide new outer up the inner until it butts up against the old outer. Tape the two outers together, with as little tape required to make a strong bond. Push the outers up through the frame, pulling the old outer gently from the lever/shifter end. When the taped join is through the frame, and clear, detach the tape and remove the old outer/inner. Thread new inner from the top, and you're good to go.

As I say, I've never done it, so I may have overlooked something. (And it doesn't help if there is no cable in the frame already.)

EDIT: Just remembered that I've heard about sucking a fine thread through the frame with a vacuum cleaner, and using that to pull the inner through, then threading the outer back up the inner.


 
Posted : 04/12/2015 9:08 pm
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Commencal has a vid on their Australian site. Start from the back and work forwards. That last bend in the chainstay requires a lot of force, ime. Also make sure the outer is cut nice and flush so it doesn't dig in on the curve.

As already mentioned: bent spoke, o-ring pick, etc is worth (twice) its weight in gold.


 
Posted : 04/12/2015 9:50 pm
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Start from the back - got it.

Thanks for the advice!


 
Posted : 04/12/2015 10:42 pm
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Make a ghetto inner cable guide. Strip the plastic lining from an old length of gear outer, then slide it up the inner cable before you remove it from the frame. Leave the ends outside the holes taped in place. Remove the inner cable and then thread the new one through the guide, before sliding it off the cable. Simples.


 
Posted : 04/12/2015 11:05 pm
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Or plan C, give up on the swingarm and just hide the gear cable under the chainstay protector. This is exactly what Commencal have done with the V4 frames!


 
Posted : 05/12/2015 7:10 am
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Bagstard, I'm starting to think this is the best plan!


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 10:08 am
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LBS gave me a 'guide sheath'' that sounds like what Scapegoat is talking about.

I'd bought cables and outer from them and then queried how to get through the frame (also an internal routing virgin)

- Loosen old cable
- Slide sheath over the old cable
- Pull carefully through the relevant section of frame
- Tape sheath in place so you don't knock it out
- Pull old cable out
- Use sheath to guide new cable
- Use new cable to guide outer


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 10:30 am
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String and hoover.


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 10:33 am
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Is there an old cable in place? I'd been assuming there wasn't. I tried string and hoover on my Commencal, but getting it around the bend in the chainstay nearest the BB required so much force that anything attached to the outer to 'pull' it through just broke. I didn't think to try putting a gear cable in and then threading the outer onto it. The answer in my case was just more violence until it popped out and I praised Jesus and all kinds of things I don't usually believe in.

Rear brake hose is much easier btw, as it's more flexible. In fact, all the other cables/hoses are ridiculously easy.


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 10:52 am
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Thanks Warpcow, it is a new frame, so there is no exisiting cable to use as a guide. I'll grab a medicinal beer later and have another crack at it.


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 11:34 am
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On my Birdy folder, which has some funny angles around the fork - I used a gear inner to feed through, with long tweezers to catch it at the end, and then gorilla-taped the cable I wanted to it and pulled it through.


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 11:40 am
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we always use an inner brake cable in our workshop - its much stiffer than inner gear cable and relatively easy to route through internal frame routes

at times you might need to put a slight kink in the end to assist it finding its way out, and its good to have a front light / small torch to hand to aid spotting the cable, as well as a spoke with sharp bend at one end (use pliers) so you can grab the cable once its next to the routing port - there often isn't enough room for needle nose pliers

once its through, we then slide on a short length (4-6") of inner routing sheath so that its covering 1/2 the inner brake cable, fill the remaining 1/2 with the inner gear and slide the lots backwards whilst keeping tension on both ends

used the same method for routing brake hoses, just without the inner routing sheath obviously!


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 12:55 pm
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There's a few different ways you can do it and it depends a bit on the frame. Last time, I used string with a wee bolt tied to the end for weight, and rotated the frame so it was hanging down in- that frame had quite a few corners so gear cable wasn't working. Oh and a torch and a pair of fine nosed pliars and a magnet on a stick to grab it once it arrived. Pain in the arse tbh.


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 1:56 pm
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I just built mine up and ignored the internal routing- I couldn't be arsed and I wanted to ride it! In defense of my outstanding laziness, my shifter and mech were already plumbed in with a full length outer and I really didn't want to disturb my brakes. I couldn't give two hoots what it looks like cos I can't see it when I'm riding it 😀

edit- mine came with bits of wire in the internal bits to help guide stuff through.


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 4:37 pm
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Thanks Kayla,

I ended up running the gear cable through the frame, then alone the chainstay on the outside with lots of zipties.

Only bit left to do is to decide if i want to route the brake hose through the frame, which will mean draining and rebleeeding, or just ziptie it to the outside...


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 6:34 pm
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Zip ties FTW in this case I reckon, just slap them on and go and get it dirty! If/when you buy new brakes then that's the time to do it when you have to take the line off the caliper or master cylinder to shorten the hose.

edit- I've got zip ties all over the shop here anyway because of the mudguard on the swingarm to try and keep the linkage clean so I killed two birds with one stone and used them to hold brake line as well.

Any excuse (first proper mess about on it today after a few weeks of not being able to ride!) -

[IMG] [/IMG]


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 7:38 pm
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Park tool do a set for exactly this reason. It is genius. Uses magnets that can be used through carbon frames, very easy to use indeed.


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 8:30 pm
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Kalya, looks awesome. I didnt manage to get a yellow one sadly... 😉


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 8:33 pm
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Did you get a 2014 pink one? 😀


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 8:37 pm
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Yes. Yes I did....

With all black components its looks rather nice, and as they say, 'real men wear pink'.

I think thats what they say 🙂


 
Posted : 06/12/2015 10:03 pm
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Sweeeeet! Stick a photo up when it's done 🙂


 
Posted : 07/12/2015 11:07 am
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as Parksie said. String and a vacuum gives you a draw cable in seconds


 
Posted : 07/12/2015 12:29 pm
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sorry to resurrect this thread, but I found a near perfect solution and wanted to share.

I did a quick measurement and found that he brake hose outer is 5mm, so did an ebay search for 6mm ID tubing. £7 got me a one meter piece, that is nice and flexible.

I ran it through the frame, then fed the brake hose through it. Took 15 seconds (or thereabouts) to run it end to end.

Happy days!


 
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