You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
....does look rather good.
Geometry tick
Wheel size tick
Dropper post tick
Low maintenance tick
I am going to have much less time to ride now so good value, low maintenance, fun bike seems hard to beat. So where are the catches
On One - put off my the regular lists off moans re bikes and customer service (Brants help on here excluded)on here. Too many to be a coincidence?
Seem to need PHD in mechanical engineering to understand OO website and parts etc
Paintwork?
Build?
At my age, don't I really need a FS??
What do you reckon - any reviews out there yet? Do you just get what you pay for......
vertical drop outs only. Boooo!
(Brants [s]help[/s]annoying marketing on here excluded)
Only ever had those stoner so nothing to compare against! Coming from 7 years on a Trek 6500 HT that has done pretty much everything.
Was thinking about Camber Evo or Anthem FS - then idea of a lot more work/less time coming and starting thinking about simplicity of a HT and the value. Actually fancy a race HT too (and tempted by XTC advanced in the sale.) i had my eye on the fireline before.
29ers are a bit yesterday 😉Wheel size tick
I'd be tempted to raid the coin jar and upgrade to a Fireline.
Im a sucker for the horizontal drop outs/trackends. I ride mainly SS, or with a gear hub, so they work for me.
I think the swapout design was the best idea, but I guess its too expensive to put on all the On-One frames.
Anyway, my O-O wish list is still for a monstercross based on the pompetamine (and with horizontal drop outs)
MSP - Member(Brants [s]help[/s]annoying marketing on here excluded)
Really is a case of damned if you do, damned if you don't, isn't it?
On-one not perfect, but I think he makes a real effort to help folks on here.
MSP - Member
(Brants helpannoying marketing on here excluded)
This might be a "bit" true MSP, but I would much rather have the likes of Brandt, Si and Loco etc commenting and contributing to the forum as they all ride and love bikes as well as work in the industry, compare this level of engagement in what we do ( ride mountain bikes ) with the likes of specialized Trek Giant etc.
I know which version of the industry I prefer.
I can't believe some of the things written on here at times.
FFS.
Weight - cross
But I guess a Lurcher would be suggested if I wanted to race it....
On One - put off my the regular lists off moans re bikes and customer service
When you think of how many people must use the O-O website, the number of gripes on here seem to be pretty miniscule IMO.
Weight seems to be the only negative.
Except it looks much better with the black fork they have pictures in their Facebook page today
yes black fork i reckon
kryton - bought to muck about on (Lakes, Surrey Hills etc) not race?
what is the weight?
Weight does include a Reverb and 2.4in front tyre, 2.25in rear... Not skinny lightweights.
Not so bad when you see the difference in weight a dropper and tyres actually add.
Is the black fork an option?
Weight does include a Reverb and 2.4in front tyre, 2.25in rear... Not skinny lightweights.
It's listed as having a CM 2.4 on the back on the site. IF it's been weighed with a 2.25, will the 2.4 fit?
I mean properly fit, with a wide rim and some mud clearance, not squeeze in and buzz the stays. Cheers.
The weight isn't bad at all for the sort of bike this is. My Buzzard is a couple of pounds heavier with a reasonably similar build. If you want a race bike, buy something else. (Not aimed at you, OP)
This might be a "bit" true MSP, but I would much rather have the likes of Brandt,
brandt? that's a name I've not heard for years. takes me back to the heady days of rec.bicycles.tech newsgroups. 😉
I mean properly fit, with a wide rim and some mud clearance, not squeeze in and buzz the stays. Cheers.
2.4's fit properly.
Smorgasbord is rear tyre on the spec you can customise, but it is listed as Chunky Monkey on the spec in the table on the page.
I'll get that fixed.
There's one in the Edinburgh shop.
If I had a clear credit card, there is no excuse I can think of not to buy one.
Revs, reverb, Deore and other bits furra grand.
Jayzus.
Looks nice, and will be the closest you'll get to Fireline geometry until they sort production for that out. Any update on this Brant?
I think it is very clever well put together spec. At the c2w limit, with a desirable proper fork and a reverb. I'm tempted and I really don't need another hardtail.
It really looks like a billy bargain - Deore, Reverb and Revelation for less than a grand 🙂
Any demo bike to try it out?
Tempted as I have a bikes worth of bits lying around, frame only deal?
Thought I might be interested in this but it's pretty 'orrible to look at. TBH. A Bit Kona 10 years ago, too chunky.
I ride a Canfield Yelli Screamy, which I think can be regarded as the 'inspiration' for modern trailsy 29er geometry - 68 degrees at 120mm and short chainstays.
It's a real hoot to ride, IMO it's the HT nailed, unless you really want a balls-our racer. It's my go to bike nowadays. re my Yelli, in the context of people looking at the Parkwood: (The Yelli is a US import and through-the-roof expensive compared to the Parkwood).
Weight: no biggie unless you're racing for a podium I think. I don't really notice it, and the fun more than cancels it out.
Dropouts: I've run my Yelli SS with a Surly Singlator, I find it works well. No need for fancy dropouts on the Parkwood if you want to run singlespeed.
Chainstays: Parkwood chainstays look longer. Shorter is better IMO, a few mm makes a difference, but YMMV and I've not ridden a PW.
The PW looks a damn good bet for someone looking for a fun great value HT. Some day, all bikes will be like this. (NB that Cannondale race bike in the news, moving in the same way, short at the back, slack at the front).
Hope that helps someone.
Tempted as I have a bikes worth of bits lying around, frame only deal?
[url= http://i.imgur.com/9HVwG3L.pn g" target="_blank">http://i.imgur.com/9HVwG3L.pn g"/> [/img][/url]
- [url= http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FROOPARK/on-one-parkwood-frame ]On-One[/url]
Edit: Must be popular....
Brant, any reason why you stopped using the '3 finger' chainstays, chainstay brake bosses and bolt on cable guides on your frames?
3 Finger bridges were Ragley. This design uses a composite (made of parts, not plastic) chainstay bridge area achieving similar.
I like bolt on guides but complaints from some about "too fiddly".
Brant, what A2C fork is it designed arround, I've got some 100mm Marzocchi forks and dunno how far off they'd be from RS 120mm forks. I was going to use a tall external cup to make up the difference, but you've scuppered that plan with an integrated headset.......grrrrrrrrrrrr.
100mm would be OK I'd have thought.
Everything is a similar length at bottom out.
|Direct mount front derailleur thingies sure are ugly.
Bugger... this was looking very promising till imspotted that its 10 x 135... my wheels are 12 x 135. Oh well back to the drawing board. 🙁
Oh god, its £999 now.
I'd be worried it'd replace my Ti 26er which is now officially the "race bike" but it is significantly different so it wouldn't, but if I wanted to go out for a quick ride, I'd be staring at my ASR5 and this an wondering...
😕
Help...
How exciting!! Big box in the porch when I got home 🙂
Sadly it was closely followed by 😡 😕 🙄 🙄
Bearing in mind, up there^
brant - Member
I mean properly fit, with a wide rim and some mud clearance, not squeeze in and buzz the stays. Cheers.2.4's fit properly.
[img][url= https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2934/14337573262_91520d3ce4_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2934/14337573262_91520d3ce4_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
That's a 1.5mm thick penny washer pinched between the frame and the tyre. And it's a RR tyre rather than my usual Hans Damf, which is never going to fit.
[img][url= https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2913/14316088506_522359ecd9_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2913/14316088506_522359ecd9_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
So back it goes. It's just irritating though. Why not just be straight about it in the first place?
I'd have bought the Yelli on the classifieds a couple of weeks ago if I'd known this.
Shame, it should be great bike otherwise.
daftvader - MemberBugger... this was looking very promising till imspotted that its 10 x 135... my wheels are 12 x 135. Oh well back to the drawing board.
It took me almost 3 minutes to make my 10-12 adaptor, and that was doing it right- doing it badly would have taken about 20 seconds. Live dangerously!
Opinions expressed in the previous post are solely those of Northwind and are not intended to constitute advice or recommendation of safe practice. No responsibility is accepted for any damage to children's faces or baby robins.
I was just about to post that for all the negative P-X/On-One threads, it's always balanced out with positive threads, like this one, about their new products.
Then bedmaker had to go and ruin things 😥
brant - Member
I mean properly fit, with a wide rim and some mud clearance, not squeeze in and buzz the stays. Cheers.
2.4's fit properly.
Fanbois had better get fanning!
I'm sorry your tyres don't fit.
We had 2.4 Chunky Monkeys in there with room to spare.
Those must be bigger that I imagined possible.
Hey!
I'm no On one slagger, I love their stuff, hence my excitement on seeing the box today when I got in from work. My other bike is a Fatty, and there's an Inbred 29er in the shed too.
I asked a specific question about tyres because I don't use ickle skinny ones - ever.
We had 2.4 Chunky Monkeys in there with room to spare.
The Racing Ralphs fit with room to spare, just not an awful lot of it. 😉 They're just run of the mill 2.4 tyres, not something special and rare from the unimagineably big tyre shop.
Goodness. It took me 4mins to eat my mushrooms on toast.
Can you give me dims of your HD's - outer diameter (you can do a roll out measurement to give that), width at widest point, and distance from Outer to widest point.
I don't have those dimensions.
We do have drawings for our Smorgy's and Chunkies, and use the +5mm tolerance dimensioned Smorgasbords to set things up, plus the +6mm clearance as required in EN 14766 as a minimum.
Our Chunky Monkeys fitted too.
Apologies, and content will be updated.
Send the frame back or change tyres??? Hmmm, sure is a tricky one...
Send the frame back or change tyres??? Hmmm, sure is a tricky one...
If customer has an expectation and requirement for a tyre that a frame doesn't achieve (inspite of assurances), it's quite reasonable to return the frame.
Northwind.... I dont have the time, tools or opportunity for that. Or the cash to spare if I balls it up.
Brant, I make the outer diameter 750mm, widest to outer 11-12mm and widest point just shy of 64mm.
Send the frame back or change tyres??? Hmmm, sure is a tricky one...
Not that tricky really. This is not a towpath bike, it's for riding on actual mountains, with rocks and stuff. The wheels might even leave the ground at times.
Brant, I make the outer diameter 750mm, widest to outer 11-12mm and widest point just shy of 64mm.
many thanks
That's on a Salsa Gordo rim
This is not a towpath bike, it's for riding on actual mountains, with rocks and stuff. The wheels might even leave the ground at times.
You mean like a mountain bike?
It's your bike, money and your [i]special[/i] tyre so you can do as you wish, but i think it might just be possible to do all those craaaazy things you mention on a slightly narrow rear tyre. Might be worth considering if you like the frame so much.
[i]The wheels might even leave the ground at times. [/i]
you're on the wrong forum, mate.
I'd try the Hans Damf in there and see what it looks like.
The rim is everything here. RRs, Ardents etc balloon up on wide rims.
[i]The rim is everything here. RRs, Ardents etc balloon up on wide rims. [/i]
this is also true.
I've been running a 2.4 Rubber Queen on a Mavic 819 rim for a little while.
Re-rimmed it to a Blunt 35 (29mm internal diameter) and the clearance on the fork has reduced so much the remaining 'hairs' on the tyre are brushing the brace.
bedmaker - Member
That's on a Salsa Gordo rim
So it fits a 2.4" Schwalbe tyre (which are always amongst the widest of 2.4s) on a super-wide rim?
Seems fair enough.
Also - the Hans Dampf is a 2.35 versus the 2.4 Ralph - my 26" HDs are slightly narrower than my 2.4" Nobby Nics.
I did some measurements a while back and the difference in rim width doesn't make as much difference to the difference in tyre width as you'd expect. Example- the difference between a 17mm ID and a 22mm ID rim, was only 1.6mm difference in tyre width on a 2.25...
Does anyone have one built up yet? ridden it? Would i be a fool to buy one and replace my el guapo with pikes?
Replace? I think they would complement each other nicely.Would i be a fool to buy one and replace my el guapo with pikes?
maybe cycle2work scheme then
What size is the rear post mount brake for (without adapters), 140mm or 160mm rotor?
Can Halfords C2W vouchers be used at Planet X/On-One as I really fancy a Parkside.
No you can't use them at PX/oo
Northwind - Member
I did some measurements a while back and the difference in rim width doesn't make as much difference to the difference in tyre width as you'd expect. Example- the difference between a 17mm ID and a 22mm ID rim, was only 1.6mm difference in tyre width on a 2.25...
How about 35mm?
Actually I think I will go to Lidl for my Parkside (Oops!)
Sod it.. I'm keeping it 😆 The taller, narrower Ardent on a Flow fits okay.
Right, where was that headset now...
Hurrah for common sense!!! 😆
honourablegeorge - MemberHow about 35mm?
Gordo is 35mm OD apparently, only 30mm ID... I've never had a rim that big to mess with but it's going to be a pretty similiar difference, a couple of mm over say a Flow Ex. Though that's a couple of mm at the widest point of the tyre, which isn't neccesarily where the smallest clearance is.
So Brant out of interest. 650b 120-240mm fork and 2.4 tyres. Much difference?
Can the travel of the fork be increased to 140mm, and if so how would it ride?
Can the travel of the fork be increased to 140mm, and if so how would it ride?
No.
What about 50mm rims and 2.4" tyres.
What about 50mm rims and 2.4" tyres.
Tyres are circular (ish) with knobly/thicker bits at the top. If you go from a 20mm to a 50mm rim you add 30mm to the circumfrance.
30/3.14=9.5mm, that's about the difference in diameter. It's not exact, there's still the knobly bit to account for, and the rim is actualy flat not part fo the circle, but it'd not hard to guestimate, just divide the difference in inner rim width by 3.14. But there's also the effect of the rim's bead/sidewall, stan's have much lower beads which make the tyre fit them like a lager rim because you;re adding 2-3mm of sidewall to the tyre on each side which bulges out.


