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That's ^ my plan too, just need to be careful selecting forks and wheels...
i was tempted with a big dog as i do prefer the look of steel a little more. Bought the scandal though as its a fair bit lighter and at this price point i cant see having a steel frame giving a much of a difference in overall ride quality.
I've had a number of steel hardtails over the years (Cotic, Dialled etc(, always loved them but always felt a bit disappointingly weighty. I had a Giant XTC which was fantastically light - but rubbish geometry. I'm hoping this will do both!
OK, I'm seriously tempted by the current £150 offer but I appear to be between sizes in the Scandal size chart.
I'm 5'11" and appear to be between the M and L.
Anyone else of a similar height? What size did you order?
i'm the same height and have just gone for a Large big dog
assume scandal and big dog are similar
Sizing guide is on website for the main Scandal frame item (i.e. at £449.99...)
Rider Height Suggested Frame Size
5′3″ to 5′7″ (160cm-170cm) Small / 15"
5′6″ to 5′10″ (168cm-178cm) Medium / 16.5"
5′9″ to 6′2″ (175cm- 188cm) Large /18"
6′1″ to 6′4″ (185cm- 193cm) X-Large / 19.5"
5ft 10 and gone for the medium - I've got short legs mind.
What would you recommend for 6:2ft (189cm). I know the chart would indicate an Xl but the frame measurements seem to be fairly long. Would a large be too cramped ? Currently on a 20inch Giant Anthem and it's a perfect size. I like frames slightly on the smaller side.
I'm 5' 10.5 and went for large, I wanted the longest reach I could get for my height.
People are riding bikes that are far too long for them right now. 5'10.5in and a large is ridiculous.
People are riding bikes that are far too long for them right now. 5’10.5in and a large is ridiculous.
Not according to the sizing chart on the website!
I'm 5'10" and the issue I would have with a medium is the 420mm seat tube. I have longish legs for my height and it means often seat post (rigid) are past min insertion point.
People are riding bikes that are far too long for them right now. 5’10.5in and a large is ridiculous
Not according to your own sizing chart! My other bike is a large too, but it sits somewhere between the Scandal Med and Lrg.
Anyway - just ordered some of the bargain REBA's from All tricks - that puts me at £360 delivered for frame, headset, seatclamp and fork. Pleased with the REBA deal as its a lot lighter than the usual budget RS offerings I was hovering over.
Excited now 😀
Interesting - so Brant are you recommending a Medium for someone 5.11 with average leg/torso
People are riding bikes that are far too long for them right now. 5’10.5in and a large is ridiculous.
Brant I'm interested in your view then on the sizing guide on the website - is it wrong? On any sensible view I am average height which should be medium but the reach on the large is only 10mm longer than my medium trek so I thought this would be a cheap way to try a long bike
I'm 6ft3. I always buy an xl frame. When I built my scandal it got what ever I had. I think I had a 70mm stem, it felt massive. Bought a 35mm on one stem for £13 and it made it feel much better.
@Brant is right, modern bikes are bigger, longer, Depending on the size of your prortions you might be better on a large. It will be more playful.
I've just started riding my xl specialised stumpjumper, first time since I built the scandal. It now feels too short and that has a 50mm stem.
Poor brant, he doesn't work there and still gets asked questions because px/oo customer service is so poor. I don't think lock down is to blame either unfortunately.
is the 32t chainring limit definite? Annoyingly ordered a 34. 32 not much use here in the flatlands.
is the 32t chainring limit definite? Annoyingly ordered a 34. 32 not much use here in the flatlands.
Someone else photo with a 32t, think the conclusion was they missed a spacer out hence the tight clearance. Might be a bit tight unless it lines up better with the L shape of the yoke.
oof that's tight, we will see I guess!
deleted, trying to figure out how to share a single pic of dented head tube from google album...
Well I've ended up ordering the Medium, swayed by Brant's comments.
Also picked up the discounted Reba from Alltricks, so hat-tip to whoever shared that.
Anyone seen any bargainous 29er wheelsets about?
What length seatposts are people having to run on these new Scandals?
I'll be going for a standard post (probably Thomson) to start with as I'm planning an XC(ish) build. But the seat tubes are short.
I'm 6ft tall, 32" inside leg and have a large frame, can anyone of similar proportions advise?
is that the €249 Reba or was it cheaper still?
What length seatposts are people having to run on these new Scandals?
I’m pretty much the same height/legs as you. Just had a quick measure up compared with my other bikes and reckon you’ll need a 400mm post, although I was comparing with a 400mm 27.2 carbon post which might have a more generous minimum insertion than a 30.9 Thomson. That assumes your saddle rails are around 71.5cm from centre of bb.
Edit: to be clear, I was measuring a Large Scandal frame too.
Thanks for that, just what I was after, they do a 410mm.
@cravensmythe
It was the €249 ones that I ordered, they were the cheapest I could find.
https://www.alltricks.com/F-11918-fourches/P-405841-rockshox_reba_rl_solo_air_29_____15x100mm_offset_51___black_2019
Just looked at the £999 GX build, it now comes with Microslpine wheels (shimano rather than Fulcrum) and an SLX cassette
According to the email I got the other day there's £200 off a scandal build until 10th of May
I bought a L frame based on the sizing chart on the website. Arrived last weekend, a bit worried now seeing Brant's comments above as I'm 5'11".
Comparing to my medium Soul (seat tube: 440mm) this is longer at 460. If I went for a medium scandal though the seat tube drops down to 420mm. I need a 410mm post as it is on the Soul for it to fit me (32" inside leg) so one of these must be true:
- a large is the right choice for me
- a scandal just doesnt suit my proportions
- I don't know what I'm talking about, I don't need my seatpost that high
- I don't know what I'm talking about, I haven't translated the measurements right
this is STW so it's probably 3 or 4 😉
Edit: ooh, I've just checked and these new fangled Brand-X Ascend XLs are 500mm long!
My forks have just arrived from Le Francais 👍
Same here, pleased with them. Nice stealthy black to match the frame too!
Now... What wheels!?
another scandal & alltricks reba recipient here, is this going to be an stw standard?
Edit: ooh, I’ve just checked and these new fangled Brand-X Ascend XLs are 500mm long!
I've gone for a Crank Bros Highline from Wiggle. 170 drop for £120.
6ft on a Large by the way. Not built yet but it's 4cm shorter reach than my full-suss which I like a lot. I reckon you'll be fine on a Large.
Am I the only one who can't get on the alltricks website ever? I get Error 403 from OZON...
Thanks hamishthecat!
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This is where im upto! The Rebas look great, nice and light if a bit spindly at 130mm too, maybe I'll drop them down a touch.
I got some Mavic XA Elites from ebay locally - black and boost. I run these on my 'main' bike so im well happy with what I paid, they look really trick too up close.
Need an 11speed mech and shifter, some Shimano brake levers and the bar/stem/post plus the finishing off bits. Trying to stick to cheap but lighter end stuff. The minion/shorty wont be staying, just for effect! Got lighter tyres to run especially in the lockdown heatwave!
Assume the forks aren’t pressurised yet as they look awfully short for 130mm travel...
Snotrag - I have a new unused Titus el guapo 760 wide x 12mm rise bar, a nearly new either 50 or a 60mm on one hot box stem and a brand new unused (not even out the box) brand X 30.9 X 170mm drop dropper. I'll do the lot as a package for 115 posted.
PM me or drop me en email cpharrop AT hotmail DOT com
So I have a slight dent at the bottom of the head tube, maybe 1mm? Headset cup won't sit in the er, hole. Hammer dent out with some wood? Or I was thinking a metal headset press would straighten it out?
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Assume the forks aren’t pressurised yet as they look awfully short for 130mm travel…
I'd just had the topcap off to see how many volume spacers were inside.
Ref the dent - If it were me, I'd have a go at tapping it out a little with some wood on the outside and something suitable shaped on the inside (a nice big socket?) to get it something like - then I'd just press the headset in.Its highly unlikely to deform the headset cup and make the bearing bind - the frame will be softer.
Annoying, and if it was something boutique and I'd paid a lot, I'd be sending it back, but pragmatism means you could just get on with things and get riding it.
Ref the dent - agree with ^^ Or maybe a g cramp with a flat bit of wood on the outside and socket on the inside. As per the above it just needs to be pulled out enough the press the cup in which will centre everything up.
I’d just had the topcap off to see how many volume spacers were inside.
how many were there? (save me a job)
Two black volume spacers!
oh, was expecting none so that's not bad. Thanks.
Sorry, stupid question perhaps. But what's the significance of the volume spacers? What're they for?
tuning the spring rate of your forks. No spacers you get a more linear rate so you use more travel more of the time, with more spacers you can run them softer and they still wont bottom out. Depends how you ride and what you like. It's worthwhile spending a few hours sessioning a section and messing with your settings, pressure, spacers* to get them setup as you like them. Lots of videos/articles around on how to do it.
*take a pump and the right spanner/tool and its easy enough to do on the trail.
The REBAS we have all bought use a casette lockring splined tool for the topcap - which I have not seen before and is really neat. Much nicer than the usual very thin flange 6 side hex (32mm on my Fox 36's).
finally unwrapped mine, couple of very minor paint chips on the downtube, meh, paintjob not as lush as it looked in the pics, again meh, but no dents, yay, seatstays look a little narrow (on my v2 scandal masses of seatstay room but chainstays were narrower), <shrugs> wasnt planning on plus tyres anyway, cable routing, oh. How are people getting on with setting up? Can you get a brake/reverb hose through with end fittings? Seriously doubt I'll get a brake line with banjo through there, but will a hose with an olive get thru?
The REBAS we have all bought use a casette lockring splined tool for the topcap
yeah and "torque" dropouts same as my 2018 pikes, my latest lockring tool has a centering pin tho so cant use that, fortunately I have an old one without, just bear in mind if you need to order one.
eg this one is no good
@donk
Cable routing was very easy as the grommets all come out.
Hoses threaded from the caliper through the frame was as easy as any frame I've done. Just required a quick bleed. They don't rattle either. Just don't drop the tiny screw inside the frame!
cheers damascus, was going to ask if you had to remove the olive but of course there's also the compression nut and plastic shroud, those are all going to have to be removed to thread through frame huh?
bloody internal routing my arse! bring back C-clip studs, easiest for serial part swappers like me
noted about the little bolts 🙂
Tyre clearance -
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Thats a Minion 2.3 on a 25mm internal rim. 7mm clearance each side - I wouldnt want less than 5mm.
Thus - I think 'clearance for 2.6 tyres' is stretching the truth a little.
Anyone running a rigid carbon boost fork ? I’m looking at building a fast’ish xc type job. If so what you get ?
Anyone running a rigid carbon boost fork ? I’m looking at building a fast’ish xc type job. If so what you get ?
Planet X do their own Selcof carbon forks
They advertise it as a bundle with the Scandal and Whippet.
I bought the bundle with the fork - fork is nicely light, feels well made
... and by the time I'd received the parcel I'd already decided I was putting a sus fork on it. What a ****ing nob !
I bought the bundle with the fork – fork is nicely light, feels well made
Oh ? Much you looking at for the fork ? £200 bit spendy as I likely fit it and hate the ride and fit a sus fork 🤣
Was looking at eBay ones around £100
you serious +1 ?
dunno - 120 posted ?
I’ll message you @scareydypants
Can’t access your message ?
Mail me
may may shaft at aol dot com 👍🏻
Thus – I think ‘clearance for 2.6 tyres’ is stretching the truth a little.
I'm running nobby nics 2. 6 on 29er flow ex mk3 rims. They actually come up at 2.52. There's plenty of space and loads left for mud.
@plus one
Anyone running a rigid carbon boost fork ?
I'm running a genesis tarn carbon boost fork. Rides well. Not sure how it compares to the Selcof fork.
Ref the brake hose question. No, the olive won’t fit.
Anyone ridden their new scandal yet?
My build is going slowly and expensively...and I’m having doubts I should’ve got the Big Dog.
Please can someone give me the inspiration to get it finished?
Not even started building mine yet, just waiting on wheels and tyres arriving then gonna get stuck in.
It'll be my first solo build, so gonna take it slow and steady. Bit worried about the internal routing, never dealt with that before!
Mines been built for a while. I love it. Nobby nic 2.6 29er tyres made a massive difference to the trails I ride. Keep going and post some pictures when it's built.
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It’ll be my first solo build, so gonna take it slow and steady. Bit worried about the internal routing, never dealt with that before!
It's quite an easy one to do, poke it through at the headtube end and poke it out with something pointy at the other, I was quite surprised how easy it was.
Just watch the little screws that hold the plates in whilst you try and screw them back in, you'd think that once the hose is in place the remaining hole would be too small to drop the screw through into the frame, it's not............
Are people getting headtubes/bb-shells faced? or am I overdoing it?
Are people getting headtubes/bb-shells faced? or am I overdoing it?
Its a £150 frame. Just build it and ride it.
Cheers for the responses.
It’s nice to see that even after having the bike for a while you still like it, damascus.
Finally got my financial donor bike sold so we’re golden in filling in the missing parts, fortunately it’s only a drivetrain and brakes/brake callipers if I use my M665 levers...unfortunately though I can’t have all the shipments sent to work so the other half sees how many parts are needed for a “cheap build”
I'm waiting on a seatpost and then I can build mine, nearly all other parts are from a donor bike or parts stock that I didn't really know I had...
Mine will be an XC orientated build, 2.4" (max) tyres, 120mm fork, Thomson post (don't trust carbon on an mtb at nearly 15st), just need to decide on bars, I've got a few alloy sets in stock to try, so once I've decided on the rise and width I'll try and get some lighter ones, though again favouring alloy.
Mines going well, not far off finished. I think all ym remaining requirements are in the post!
Ref the cable routing and the inaccesbile bolt -
Unbolt the black guides top and bottom. Thread an old inner cable through the hole that covers the bolt access.
Re-attach the black guides. The inner cable is flexible enough that you can get access to tighten the tiny bolts up.
Now push your new hose or outer cable up the old inner cable. Et voila.
Are people getting headtubes/bb-shells faced? or am I overdoing it?
given I'm going to smack the dent in my headtube out with a hammer then hammer in the headset cups I think you're overdoing it
@snotrag - how do you push a hose up an inner cable ?
(I just shoved mine up from the bottom and "caught" them with a thin allen key - took a few goes but worked fine)
Just push it up? The inner won't damage the hose. Obviously not with a brake lever or brake caliper still attached to it 🤔.
If anyone bought a frame bundle and doesn’t want the carbon fork I’ll take it off your hands.
Just push it up?
is the inner cable really rigid enough to let the outer slide up it - I'd have thought it'd just flex and lose all shape
(I'm missing something aren't I ?)
I didn’t have any issues tightening up the cable entry covers with the cables in situ.
My build is progressing, just waiting for a rear mech. Zee brake levers from a recent PSA with older XT callipers swapped in when I put the Zees on a bigger bike. An ancient pair of LX hollow tech triple cranks with a 32 ring - clearance seems fine. 40mm stem with some RSP bars from an old PSA and Fox 34 Performance forks from a PSA a couple of years ago. 27.5 wheels with 2.8 tyres. 11sp drivetrain - new XT shifter with I-spec B fitting (fits the Zees) £17 from Wiggle. Cassette and chain from spares box. Should be done by the weekend. Had a big parts clearout on a £1 listing deal on EBay which has more than paid for everything.
I didn’t have any issues tightening up the cable entry covers with the cables in situ.
Yup, its not the getting to them that was the problem, it was my butterfingers dropping them through the slightly larger than the hose holes into the frame then having to take it somewhere clean and shake it till it fell out the headtube that was the problem!
Yup, its not the getting to them that was the problem, it was my butterfingers dropping them through the slightly larger than the hose holes into the frame then having to take it somewhere clean and shake it till it fell out the headtube that was the problem!
Ah, fair comment - I was consciously living dangerously putting the screws in at dusk in an unlit shed with a messy floor - and was feeling smug as I got away with it!
Quick question about the internal routing for the rear brake.
Is there I was I can fit without having to bleed the brake?
Or will I need to remove the the lever, drain the fluid, remove the olive and insert in order to get the hose through the frame?
Or will I need to remove the the lever, drain the fluid, remove the olive and insert in order to get the hose through the frame?
Not sure draining the fluid is nesecary, just wipe up any dribbles and spray liberally with IPA afterwards. But yep it will need a bleed unless very lucky.
Most brakes you cant remove the barb/olive so you'll need to cut the last inch off the hose and buy new ones.