Just got the e-mail inviting me in to build it.
10% off, and a breakfast roll? You really should have lead with the breakfast in the marketing!
#youdontgetthatwithatrek
Mid Nov is starting to feel a long way off with this dry weather and dusty trails...
@henrik I also bought the bargainacious Judys from PX, and a set of fulcrum red powers from CRC. Now debating over XT, SLX or new XD free hub plus eagle. I only ride a mountain bike for a few weekends a year and a week or so each summer so this seemed like an ideal opportunity to build up something modern and fun on a decent budget. My old 'dale F1000 is still going strong but at over 15 years old I fancied trying something a bit more 'up to date'! Going to pick up the frame tomorrow, pretty excited to get building.
Scandal frame for sale
I ordered the frame, then got upsold for the complete bike but planet X sent both anyway (charged for both still).... Going to send frame back unless anyone interested in buying it at less £250 but more than pre order price... Let me know
Does anyone know what thread the rear maxle is?
I don't want to have to carry an 8mm key round with me and I'm looking for a quick release maxle to swop it for.
Thanks
Yep , what Damascus said .
M12 x 1.75mm thread
12mm threaded length.
169mm end to shoulder.
Thanks Brant. I did think about asking on live chat but I thought they may get it wrong or just ask you anyway.
Right. Anyone found a good deal in a rear maxle?
A very dull question - should there have been the red plastic mech position guide tool with the bike as I assume it comes with the mech? (Or not as the mechs would be OEM?)
If not - to make life easier than measuring - is there a template anywhere to print one onto paper /card?
Cheap Maxle option:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-twist-lever-thru-axle/rp-prod176625
I have a Allen key one on another bike and it is decent. QR version should be good I imagine.
So an 8mm Allen gets the wheels off? Ta for that, I wouldn't have realised that til I was fixing a puncture at the furthest point of the loop..
Mine gets built this week apparently.
Has anyone fitted the brand x maxle yet?
I'm wondering about the maxle too. The boost option looks like it is too long (180mm vs 169mm as brant said above). If it's just a matter of sawing off a bit of thread at the end, i'm fine with that.
Just waiting for the Canyon ebay dropper (thanks for PSA above!) and a ebay ztto lever to arrive, before building it up.
So a new hanger sorted my axle problem... cheers PX
Daft question but does a stealth dropper cable need to pop out the back insert in the seat tube or does it run via the BB shell? Reason I ask is that I can see only two cable inserts towards base of downtube (eg 1 for brake and 1 for gear cable). I must be having a magic moment otherwise
from memory, isn't there another port at the side of the downtube near the bottom, think the dropper goes under BB on one of the 3 cable bosses, then in that hole and out one of the top left pair of holes?
EDIT - just looked at the product pics on the website, there's a double port and a single port at the bottom of the downtube...the double port is black but it's not obvious it takes 2, but it does
Thanks Faustus - will give it a go... had assumed it could only take one cable.
Sales order number Bigjim please.
Oh hello, err SO1754787. But I will drop you a PM shortly as there's something else...
Received my frame last week, seems great for the money, good weight, well finished. Sadly it doesn't say NO NO on it. Need to sort a few boost related things but looking forward to building it up.
Not sure a wheel box was the best thing to post an XL 29er frame in though, planet x!
Has anyone bought that Selcof headset from O-O and if so is the top cap thingy as tall as it looks on the website? I have a terribly short steerer tube to work with and need the lowest stack I can find, unfortunately I can't use the Gusset one from my Parkwood on the Scandal.
Yeah, I got one purely because I knew it would fit since Brant said so upthread. Think it's just weirdly photographed, as it doesn't seem to be much more than 10mm tall. You could probably mix and match, though.
@bigjim. Here's my Selcof headset on an xl frame. Ignore the bag and Garmin mount
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If your steerer is too short, here's a stealth add 😁 I'm open to offers. X fusion 29er forks in the classifieds.
https://singletrackmag.com/classifieds/advert/x-fusion-trace-rl2-unicrown-29er-forks/
I was out on mine tonight - yep it's great and I'm now planning how to get to some proper mountains / trail centres etc to enjoy it.
My "old" Scandal 29er has now been converted back to a SS for general winter use - I took it for a quick spin last night to check it generally works. Blimey - they are two VERY different bikes - the old very quick steering, very light (well it would be SS and with ZTR Crest rims) - the new feels properly "burly" by comparison.
Strangely the new one doesn't seem any slower when riding (unless the group I am riding with got slower which is possible I suppose).
The dropper post hole on the back of the seat tube seems like a prime spot to get mud and water in the frame - some sugru or similar will be sealing that up soon methinks. The hole on the underside of the downtube just in front of the BB is similar but not quite as bad.
One question for the hive mind: could the dropper cable be run internally all the way from the seat tube to the front exit location, i.e. pass through the bottom bracket shell? The under BB external cable route seems like a bit of a mud-trap as it is?
Keep it open and unsealed. Air will help it dry
Any ideas for solving the cable rattle from cables in downtube? trying to find ways to tension the cables but of course the exit holes dont have anything I can attach a zip tie to.
Mine's coming (complete) next week. Anyone know how the complete bikes ship, ie would it be prudent to get a hanger on order, or do they ship with wheels and mech on etc?
Any ideas for solving the cable rattle from cables in downtube? trying to find ways to tension the cables but of course the exit holes dont have anything I can attach a zip tie to.
Which cable is rubbing? Did you route the cables the same side or cross over? Do you have a dropper cable? Mines a seat lever dropper with no cable.
I kept mine the same side and I haven't heard a peep from them.
I've just come back from another ride. I'm loving it as a rigid so I've decided to sell the suspension forks and go 29er plus ish.
I took it down the roughest local stuff I ride. I was slower but I could ride it all and I was able to link up some great bits of track I normally wouldn't link and it was great to ride.
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I had a bit of cable rattle for the rear brake hose which is route though the single fixed hole on the drive side. I just pulled a bit of slack hose out and wrapped a few turns of insulation tape around the hose until it was tight in the hole, then pulled the hose back though. Seems to have stopped it.
Loving mine for messing about in the local woods, currently running 29er front and a 27.5+ on the rear. Full susser hasn't had a look in!
Loving mine for messing about in the local woods, currently running 29er front and a 27.5+ on the rear. Full susser hasn’t had a look in!
Pics!
I tried to fix my "wobbly" front tyre tonight.... the Continental Mountain Kings that I selected to come with the bike.
The rim is running true, but the tyre deflects to the side at by a good few mm at one point.
I assumed it just wasn't seated properly so put a tube back in, soapy water and inflated to 65PSI. I also rotated the tyre 180 deg so I could check whether the wobble follows the rim or the tyre.
Re-setting it up tubeless, the wobble is still there - at the same point relative to the tyre as it was before. It is seated properly - the "witness" mark runs perfectly around the rim on both side.
A quick search suggests some tyres, most notably Continentals have a similar problem and get replaced under warranty. Any ideas to suggest before I contact On-One for return, inspection, replacement (sounds like a right faff) ?
bigjim. Here’s my Selcof headset on an xl frame
Cheers for that, it looks taller than I can use but I thiiiink I should be able to use the top cap thingy from my gusset one which is very low stack. Hopefully I won't need new forks!
Whats the biggest tyre/rim combination people have got in the back of the frame?
I'm thinking of going 29er plus. I know my genesis tarn fork will go upto 3 inch. The back can easily take a 2.5. It's got a 2.35 maxxis at the moment with loads of space. Before I waste some money on expensive rubber that's too big. Any photos of fat tyres?
Any recommendations for 29er plus tyres and rims? Based in West Yorkshire with wet mud and grit.
Thanks
It won’t go full 29plus at the back. Can go 3.0 on B+
Thanks for everyone's input.... finally got everything built up. A mix of old and new parts but pretty happy with this.
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It won’t go full 29plus at the back. Can go 3.0 on B+
I'm thinking a 29er x 2.6 nobby nic will fit on the rear. A 2.8 on the front. Just need someone to check before I buy something
Is that called 29er plus minus? I'm old school, anything bigger than 2.35 is a plus tyre to me.
Anyone who got a medium frame happen to remember (or can look) at the dimensions of the box it came in?
I've had a 29 x 2.6 butcher om 30mm rim on the rear of mine without issues.
Pic from todays ride on the "NO NO" with a 2.6 x 27.5 on a 35mm rim on the back
So I went to Planet-X on Saturday to build my Scandal and despite an organisational hiccup (the day had been canceled due to low numbers but the message had got lost in the outbox/my inbox!) Dave and everyone else went out of their way to sort it out, Dave infact seemed far more annoyed than me about the mixup! This is my 4th bike from then and I still think the CS is far better than a lot of other mail order places (or some LBS's for that matter!) despite some of the moaning about them. And they do have whiteboards with targets to answer live chats within x number of minutes, read whats written on forums etc, so are obviously keen to avoid own-goals when it comes to dealing with any problems.
The warehouse is a treasure trove of stuff and an eye opener as to just how much stuff they sell, there's obviously a lot of the mainstream frames and full bikes built so there are isles of frames, wheels, forks, SRAM kit etc which appeared to make up most of the throughput. But then next to hundreds of selcof carbon raiser bars destined for mountainbike builds there'll be a box of 3 nitto mustache bars. Which maybe isn't the impression you get of the business from the website when you're searching through tens of variations of nitto bars looking for the normal stuff!
As for the bike itself, building bikes is so much less stressful when you have every (jobsworth obviously) tool imaginable to hand, all the sundries need, and a supply of tea and people popping in to gossip about bikes and the industry!
They were having a sale of random stock and samples so I even left with a set of 40mm wide magnesium 29er rims, an unbranded rear hub, some lock-on grips and some roadie silver/reflective toe covers for £5 each! So for £15 (actually even less as they refunded the postage I'd paid so the hole basket of bits came to a fiver!) I'm already most of the way to some incredibly light wheels to go on it now! the fulcrums might not be fashionably wide but the 2.4 Goma's went up easily and TBH if it wasn't for the bargain rims I couldn't really see them being on the list of things to replace. The seatpost on the other hand is the unexpectedly heavy lump of metal in the build but then the buyers of this sort of bike are either on a tight budget and prioritizing the price, or will be fitting a dropper so it's not really something to criticize.
40mm wide magnesium 29er rims
These sound interesting. They are not on the website. We're they a one off or are they a sample and they are going to be on their new wheels?
I need a wide set of rims to run my new schwalbe 2.6 29er nobby nics on.
These sound interesting. They are not on the website. We’re they a one off or are they a sample and they are going to be on their new wheels?
They're "Gipiemme Mag 40" according to the engraving on the side and hand welded in Italy (didn't even realise hand welded rims were a thing!), but no other stickers, dunno what the story is with them. The sale seemed to be a mix of end-of line stuff, all the the usual £3/£5 socks, overshoes, multitools etc from the website, odd sized frames, demo bikes, and samples.
but the 2.4 Goma’s went up easily
Do I infer that you're running them tubeless?
I specced the same rubber not really intending to run tubeless but if they go up OK, I might as well.
Yup, a little tight so had to do the trick with an innertube, get it seated, take one side off, re inflate, valve core out, add sealent, re inflate. Then an above average ammount of stans dancing to seal the bead but that may just be because my tape was a bit narrow. So the bead may not be tubeless ready but the tyre itself is airtight.
Weighed the bargain rims, 525g each, scary! Wtb asym i35 are the closest profile i could find and those are 670g!
Good to know. Will ride it for a bit with tubes in anyway as I've got no sealant or tape here and it supposedly arrives today.
Just about finished building mine - couple little bits and pieces to tidy up this week then hopefully get out on it at the weekend.
Looking good Jase_MK. I like the amberwall tyres, and the silver stanchions on the fork. I always approve of a fork being de-stickered. Really nice classic Hope brakes too!
Mine will be a de-stickered Reba with silver stanchions. My brakes are kinda classic M988 XTRs (not that old in my mind). Good brakes are good brakes, whatever the age.
That looks stunning!
Wouldn't be able to ride with a saddle pitched like that though.... :p
Just got the tracking confirmation that the ztto dropper lever is on a plane from china so should be here soon.
Although I think I've found a problem, the canyon/brand-x post looks like it needs a barrel on the cable at the post end. The ZTTO lever clamps on the cable. Does this mean it needs brake cable rather than gear cable?
That's going to be annoying as I've got a reel of nice orange SP41 and box of teflon coated gear inners! Not sure what I've got brake cable wise any more!
My Ztto is on the way too, though purportedly from Ireland but either way due soon. I also got the Canyon dropper. Going to figure it out when it arrives as it's my first stealth dropper...
Did your post come with the barrel nut? Dont think mine did but may have got lost in the packageing.
I think so, but can't remember!
Here's an orange one. Just arrived in País Vasco. Very impressed with the kit for the money, though it did predictably arrive with a bent hanger! Stock build, specced the 2.4" Gomas. Having not ridden MTB for quite a few years, it feels absolutely massive.
it did predictably arrive with a bent hanger!
Was it sticking out the box? Did they send you a new one? Mine was sticking out but hard to tell if it's bent. Dent on bottom of head tube too lol
Nope it's a complete build so shipped with the mech on. Box looks fine.
Looking at the hanger, it's scratched up a bit. The mech bolt is also very tight and has stripped the hanger thread slightly, kinda points to the hanger being bent when they assembled it.
The live chat bloke is sending a replacement hanger so all good - frame looks straight so that should fix it.
Straightened the dropout best I could and had a shakedown ride this morning. First thing to fall off was the saddle I hadn't tightened properly. Rained heavily yesterday so everything was sodden, slippy Basque limestone did nothing for my confidence returning to MTB after years off. Wheelbase 20cm longer than my last bike caught me out time after time, though I did feel far more in control on steep techy climbs, just lacking the leg speed. Clown wheels wanted to roll over everything but I was too nervous to let them, I'll try again in the dry.
Impressed with everything, GX eagle is nice but I'd like a gripshift, brakes great once bedded in, the fork will probably get better with a bit more use, felt a bit sticky but then I haven't even checked the pressure.
Pulled the stickers off the wheels and fork, just needs setting up tubeless and maybe treating to a new saddle (bought that Flite in 92...).
Liking the stealth look. Although I did get a whole bag of RockShox stickers so could just go for the opposite look!
Anyone had a problem with the drive side crank almost touching the chainstay? I've tried boost and non boost, Shimano and SRAM and they're all within 2mm. This is a boost NX crank.
Mines perhapse a smidgen better than that (GX), but that might just be the camera angle and frame/crank colour. Have you got the BB spacer on the right side? Looking at the preload collar on mine you could always add a second as theres >2.5mm of thread showing.
Boost shouldnt affect it much as thats chainline not q-factor so Id expect the arms to be similar.
The cranks in the photo are NX powerspline so no spacers or adjustment. Same crank to chainstay dimension as the GX/SX Dub cranks the full bikes come with. Gap measures 1mm. I can't see them shipping bikes with clearances that tight but I'll see what Planet X say tomorrow.
What size chainring is that?
What is dimension from bike centreline to the centre line of chainring?
It's a 32t boost. Centre of BB shell to centre chainring is 53mm.
How does the size of the chainring affect how close the crankarm is to the chainstay?
How does the size of the chainring affect how close the crankarm is to the chainstay?
I suspect brant is off to compare with a built bike in the warehouse - dimensions and chainring/crank arm location to yoke angle / spread.
Max chain ring size is 32t but that's got nothing to do the crank Arms. I'll have a look at mine and upload a photo.
I can’t see them shipping bikes with clearances that tight
Unless either the frame or crank flex a lot then clearance is clearance surely.
Is there any reason you couldn't put a spacer on the BB? I thought most cartridge BB's still used one to allow for an e-type front mech or chain device.
Might take mine appart later, just looked at the SRAM manual and dont remember the 4.5mm drive side spacer, but do have a 2.5mm bb spacer on there.
How does the size of the chainring affect how close the crankarm is to the chainstay?
The chainring looks to be 50mm from the centreline. Which means it’s 2mm inboard of boost spec. Which means the whole crank is 2mm inboard. Which means the BB axle is the wrong length if I understand Powerspline correctly.
Bottom bracket is 118/73. If they did a longer axle I've not seen one. It's marked 68 etype, 73 std no spacer. I tried a 2.5mm spacer and whilst there's more clearance, the nds cup has to screw in a long way to support the nds bearing. Everything should fit fine, chainring to centre is on spec. It's just odd how the chainstay curves out towards the crank arm where it joins the cast yoke.
Im playing around with my chainline. I currently have a 2.5 spacer on the non drive side and clearance is OK, could be better. Running a triple xt 175 with hope chain ring.
When I threw the bike together I didn't even measure the bb to see if it needed a spacer.
Just looked on the website and it's BSA 73mm so doesn't need a spacer 🤦♂️
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The non drive side has plenty of clearance
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Pre emptive question whilst on the subject of offsets:
Whats the deal with direct mount chainrings. If they come inline +3 and +6mm. Do I want an inline one if the cranks are already boost, or are the cranks all the same and I want a +3mm (or +6mm) chainring?
Just looked on the website and it’s BSA 73mm so doesn’t need a spacer 🤦♂️
don't think that's right.
68mm shell, 3 no 2.5mm spacers. two drive side, one non drive
73mm shell, 1 spacer drive side.
The spacer allows for swap out with a BB mounted front mech (e-type), if you remember those things.
Have set mine up with no spacers at present as had read somewhere that was correct for 73mm shell.
Is the general consensus that should have 2.5mm spacer drive side then?
Yes - 73mm has 1no. 2.5mm spacer on the drive side.
No, DUB is different to the older BB's.
73mm is either 1x 2.5mm spacer (or chainguide) and a 2mm axle spacer, or a 4.5mm axle spacer.
Speaking of, lightest/ cheapest chain guide? I test fitted my old straightline silentguide but it doesnt like the 12s chainline.
No, DUB is different to the older BB’s.
oops, missed that it was DUB.
This is why I bought a complete build for the first time ever; I have no idea about all these new standards. Last time I built an MTB it was square taper triple..
FWIW mine has about 5mm min. clearance between the DS stay and the crank. GX Eagle, DUB etc (whatever that is).
I initially fitted mine with a spacer on either side of the BB but as I'm using boost converters on the rear hub the cassette was to far inboard and the chainline was off. So whipped the spacers off and the chainline was fine and still enough clearance for the crank arm.
How are folk getting on with these? How do they compare to similar bikes? I nearly bought one at £999 which makes it near impossible to pay £1199...
Nobodys got one in a rideable state yet. For an extra £200 they might pack it properly.
How are folk getting on with these? How do they compare to similar bikes?
I’m loving mine - on both riding around local tracks and towpaths etc plus a run around Llandegla it’s just a whole heap of fun to ride. I went for the GX build with Mountain King tyres when the pre-order discounts were live and added a Brand X dropper.
I can’t compare it to other £1k bikes but I do know I like it !
Nobodys got one in a rideable state yet. For an extra £200 they might pack it properly
There are loads of built bikes and happy riders. A few bikes have had some issues but px sorted them straight away.
A few of us are messing around with chainline and crank clearance but we've built from frame only.
Personally I'm loving mine. I think it's great. Exactly what I was after.
like markwsf i have the gx build with mountain kings and have added one of those canyon droppers off ebay . Have also swapped the 740 carbon bars for some 780s i had in the garage and after 1 ride i knew the saddle wasn't for me . I seem to of got lucky and mine turned up with a straight mech hanger .
It has the same feel , geometry wise , to my flare max so i felt pretty comfortable on it straight away . It feels great on singletrack and feels like a pretty solid all rounder . I wouldn't mind getting some big rubber on it .
I really fancied a bird 29er or a solaris , my recent bike buys have been to replace my stolen bikes and i used a good chunk of the insurance money on my flare max so i was after a cheaper hardtail and you dont seem to get a lot for your money these days so with the presale discount the on-one fitted what i was after .
Any fork deals around or anyone spotted anything good 2nd hand? Missed the bargain PX ones?
