What happened ductions is that they've now got matching build kits. As to forks I went and bought Z2s for the Dog. On the Scandel build I sourced S/H Rhythms. Though they are both at 130 I think the Rhythms are kinder on my wrists. Currently waiting for an inline seatpost as the Scandel's seat post angle is a touch slack without one.
140 fox rhythm 34 on mine and its ace. Got my frame for £128 in September.
What happened ductions is that they’ve now got matching build kits.
Hmm, you mean they offer it as a complete bike too? They did last year as well. I don't understand how they can justify the massive price increase over the year for the frame alone. Wouldn't you rather buy a Cotic frame or something for that kinda money?
I don’t understand how they can justify the massive price increase over the year for the frame alone.
They don't have to justify it - if people pay they sell at the price, if they don't they'll end up dropping the price again. I think they underpriced it at the start to be honest - maybe a cunning plan or maybe just didn't expect it's success - probably driven in no small part by this and other STW threads...
What is really annoying I'm sure is when they drop the price unexpectedly though. Glad I got my frame for £150 🙂
After reading lots of conflicting advise re sizing for me at 5ft 11 I went on Guys Kestevens advise as he actually reviewed the bike and as I'm the same height so I went for large and definitely made the right choice it feels so stable on the steep descents which is what my previous bike lacked Boardman MHT 8.9 also large. Had to change two things immediately though the saddle is a torture device and the tyres are only fit for dry landrover tracks not the winter mud and snow we have now. Overall very happy with the bike and would recommend even for £1200 I was lucky enough to get it in the sale for £1000 would be nice if it came with a dropper post as you certainly want to ride steep descents on it so I bought a brand x 150mm and swapped the tyres for Maxxis Minion DHR/DHF
ductions they've got loads of build kits to sell so why would they want to be left with them? They obviously get bulk deals from Sram, and Woolworths for the wheels...... As for the frame price well I suspect the mark up on ally frames is immense. Years back you could buy a factory special GT Zaskar frame in a different type of ally. They discounted a few at £50. Word was they still made a profit. As for Cotic well one contributor here with both opined he preferred the Scandel. He liked it better in singletrack though the Solaris was superior down steeps.
So what size rotors are people fitting and getting away with?
203mm fits on back if you need to 👍
I think most can get away with a 160mm on the back but power at the front is key.
So, I’d like to know if anyone has squeezed 180 or 203 on the front??
Running 180 both ends.
Used a +20mm Shimano post-post adaptor and a few washers on the rear.
Mine arrived a couple of days ago and I'm really pleased with it.
I've stretched the life out of my 26" bikes with upgrades over the years - I still enjoy my original 26" OnOne Whippet (Lightweight build on ZTR Crests etc.) and my 2005 Scott Genius is maxxed out with upgrades that are possible on such an old 26" frameset. It's getting to the point if I want parts used Ebay is the best/ only source.
I saw the Scandal as a halfway house between the two as I dipped a toe into the water of modern geo and big wheels. In a non-covid world I'd have probably gone and test ridden a bunch of more expensive full-suss CF bikes. Given the price of the On-One it made more sense as an unridden online purchase with the long term potential to be a back-up / winter bike.
I'm a lanky 6'3" so opted for the XL. It does feel like a big bike (my old XL On-Whippet on 26er's feels like a BMX :)) however I think it suits what I'll use it for - more epic ride type stuff (hopefully back to the Peaks once lockdown relaxes) than racing or technical trail centre Singletrack.
First thing to come off were the tyres, replaced with Maxxis (DHF 2.6 + Ardent 2.4 combo), and set up tubeless.
Front mudguard fitment was next.
Next upgrade will be the saddle. (I'm not normally picky with saddles, but this one is not for me..)
Final upgrade will be a dropper. I have a 31.6 on my Scott I tried to swap over, until it wouldn't fit in the Scandal's tube designed for 30.9... Doh!. Given a lot of my local rides barely need a dropper I'll make do with the QR post clamp I've added as a stop gap.
My bike came assembled perfectly, the paint was good all over (I've heli-taped various bits to keep it that way), the gear indexing spot on and the brakes bled properly.
The bike feels planted, the mud clearance is huge, I am convert to 1x12 (Going from 3x9 to 2x10 was a little bit of an anti-climax back in the day, going 1x and having just one control to think about is great.).
The initial feeling of slow speed "flop" from the 29'er way out front compared to my much steeper head angled 26's took a while to get used to. I thought it would slow the steering in twisty bits, but that's not the case. The bike still feel playful. The one small complaint / thing to get used to is _really_ slow speed climbing, where the front wheel does tend to wander a little.
TLDR; The evil bike industry has finally pushed me into the land of 29er's by cunningly obsoleting old parts. I am happy they did and I'm glad I bought the Scandal as an entry into modern 29er land. It's a fun bike, with decent parts for a reasonable price.
Anyway 3 days and 80km later:
I’m happy with mine, deffo need to get a dropper sorted to get my arse lower on my local trails. It feels quite quick but hopefully not as quick as my FS bike 🙂
Mine is 11spd with a 42t cassette so not got that big spinning gear you have @Off-One, so yours may be easier to wander, however, I’d recommend dropping a stem spacer out and/or rolling your bars forward - if your seated position is where you want it saddle-wise.
Got mine last weekend and did a couple of rides. Using it for local byways and towpath stuff when I can’t be arsed to drive/train out to somewhere more interesting, so for me the factory build is just fine. Ordered a L and I’m 5’10” with long ish legs, it’s fine maybe a touch too big, I think an M probs would’ve been fine as well. Not massively bothered either way.
came well built out of its box and I’m happy, nothing needs immediate replacing, v impressed with the fork. Might see if I can get the Panaracers to go up tubeless for a laff.
@Paulneenan76 Thanks for the suggestions. I already have the bars rolled forward a fair amount from "stock" (i.e. where the On One Logo shows through the stem). I'll give swapping the spacers round a try. The bars are already significantly higher (relative to saddle) than my other bikes, so I've definitely got some room to experiment.
Don't forget to check the spokes are tight. See earlier comments
I have 35mm of shims a cheap 40mm stem and a On One 50mm carbon Riser bar. The bars are level with the jammed forward seat, the 400mm post on it's max mark. I'm 5' 8" on a good day on a medium. It feels as if the head angle is a touch slacker than the Dog, and I'd say the Dog's longer chainstays makes that a better technical climber. That definitely lifts less. I'm running Rhythm/Z2 which are a bit shorter than the Gold so perhaps that's why I have't yet noticed any wheel flop. I've put the Scandel away till summer and I'll just use the Dog in the slop.
Scandal owners, a question please: How noisey is the rear freehub ? I'm currently on a Giant Anthem that's completely silent when free wheeling (ahh bliss 🙂 ), I really dislike noisey ticking freehubs.
It makes noise for sure and louder the better for me.
Not sure how loud it is by comparison to others but is certainly not silent
I can’t remember it being massively intrusive, but honestly, it’s a free hub. Who really cares whether it clicks or not, is that really going to be the criteria you choose a bike on?
I can’t remember it being massively intrusive, but honestly, it’s a free hub. Who really cares whether it clicks or not, is that really going to be the criteria you choose a bike on?
Of course not, I always choose based on the colour of the saddle.
phew, obviously that's a much more sensible criteria.
Looking at brand x dropper for my scandal. Looking at 150 mm drop however on crc they mention a length of 459 mm for this:DROPPER
Will it fit in the seat post?
I've a 200mm in mine, but I've long legs.
Measure it up.
A 200 mm brand X dropper?
Yes.
Large frame.
Just looking into buying a Scandal. I too am looking for a dropper post. I fancied the Brand X XL with 170mm travel as this gives internal cable routing. Do you think this will fit? The insertion length is 276mm including the actuator according to the CRC website.
Cheers
Andy
Hi Andy
I have the 150mm Brand X on my large, I'm 179cm. I wouldn't get away with any longer. If my inside leg measurement was another 2 cm I'd be ok with 170mm I guess.
Hi Elvino
I opted for the 150mm Brand X as well.All on order, roll on a couple of weeks hopefully
Cheers
Andy
If anyone is looking for a frame I have a one in Size: Large with headset and axel in black.
I've put a 150mm internally routed Brand-X dropper in mine and it's all good. The post is nearly fully inserted on my XL. (I have a 36" inseam.)
One thing I'd _HIGHLY_ recommend is being _REALLY_ careful with the tiny screw that holds the upper plastic cable entry guide into the frame. Getting it out of the downtube should it drop in is not easy (Don't ask how I know!) It's also a little awkward to tighten back up again when the dropper cable is in place - needing a tiny Allen key that will be pushed away from proper square-on engagement with the bolt head by the dropper cable = easy way to round off that bolt.
I'm really happy with mine, feels properly sorted now the dropper is on, and I'm sure you will be pleased with it!
Max fork length?
I can see that the frame can cope with a 130 travel fork but I can't see on the on one website what is the maximum length of fork that the frame can take. Does on one state a max length of fork anywhere?
Mine came with the RS35 set at 140mm.
Cheers, that's good so I can run 130 or 140. Does anyone use a 150 fork?
People were asking about axles.
I ordered a ztto one off ebay. Took a while to get here, but less than advertised. It fits fine - a little long at 177mm so there are some threads sticking out. But it looks comparable to the brand x one, is about a tenner and in stock.
It may snap and kill me on the next ride. Ztto have a half decent rep though.
Will be out for first ride on mine today, shall report back latter...................tbc..........
Cheers, that’s good so I can run 130 or 140. Does anyone use a 150 fork?
Why would you want to run a 150? Just daft.
Ok first ride out today, nice cold frosty day, ground fairly hard, bit of snow higher up.
Bike rides nicely, very easy to lift the front wheel but didnt seem wandery on the climbs.
Running a 120mm fox 34, also have a 135mm Pike on another bike so may swap them to try the slightly longer pike on it.
Felt balanced at 120mm, running a 50mm stem and it feels quite short (not too short) im 5`7 on a medium.
Dont have dropper on it at the moment didnt really need it for the ride I did, local loop from the door with a bit of whinlatter, intended to do more but fork seemed to lose air so cut short and spun home.
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[url= https://postimages.org/app ]screenshot software for windows[/url]
Where's that NCB? Looks stunning/vaguely familiar!
Snowy pic is going up the south side at Whinlatter, looking towards Grizdale Pike
@brant 'Why would you want to run a 150? Just daft.' I was asking if this works or if anyone had tried it.
I guess 130 or 140mm would be fine but was wondering what is the maximum fork size they recommend using with the frame. After looking again at the website it states under frame spec:
Fork 120-130mm
There is no maximum, fill ya boots. Will it upset the geo that Brant designed the bike around, yes. Will it ride rubbish, most likely.
130/140 fork and get the bike it was designed to be. If you want bigger travel you picked the wrong frame. This is my first 29’er and if anything it’s more versatile than the C456 it replaced.
Not that simple. The longer the fork the greater the leverage on the head tube. At some point beyond it's design parameters it will break.
Anyone had a problem with the mech hanger on the Scandal? I am using an SLX clutch mech and just noticed that my second hanger has now got a chip out of it where the mech pin contacts the hanger tp stop it pulling too far forward. The SLX mech's pin is about half the width of the hanger, and this portion of it gets broken off - and royally screws up the shifting.
I am loathe to pay another £25 for a hanger just for it to break again - that's two in two years now!
(edit: I bodged it with a wee zip tie around the bit that's snapped off, but that will shear through eventually I guess)
Has anyone tried to get the Panaracer Firesport to go tubeless?
Not me nickc. I swapped to Nobby Nics and went tubeless them
Having issues?
Hows everyone getting on with their Scandal? Almost a year in now, I rode it absolutely non-stop during Spring/Summer 2020 when the sun shone and I didnt have any work. Or income. Or events that I'd entered actually being run. Still...
It now hasnt been touched for months in lieu of a Gravel Bike for local stuff. I considered selling it a while back but I reckon It owuld be pretty foolish to do so - theres no doubt I'd be hardtail curious again quickly after and then I'd be scuppered, theres nothing as good value ( or even, available!) for the money given I paid about £300 for the frame and fork brand new!
Its been robbed of various bits and bobs too, I think I'm going to resurerect it a little and get it up and running for some long XC type riding.
Hows everyone getting on with their Scandal?
Likewise, didn't ride it much last year as while I can ride to Swinley it's not quite local enough to be fun doing it and I still think driving to go somewhere fun is outside the spirit of the rules for exercise. So rode the gravel bike instead.
Got back into it after the last work project finished and still loving it.
The 35s bedded in nicely, although I can't get full travel, too progressive at the very end. But that's probably just the nature of a long travel form that's been spaced down. I'll have a tinker when they're due a full service.
I've got 3 chains on rotation so the drivechain still looks new. Might be a placebo but I think the shimano chain actually shifts better 🤷♂️. One thing I have noticed is chunks missing from the GX cassette teeth. I guess that just a result of the forces involved with a huge casssette, they don't seem to affect it.
Fulcrum wheels, the rear has more drag than I'd like while coasting, without a clutched mech I think it would actually throw the chain off, but they're still straight and the bearings are surviving so they'll probably do another year or two.
Other than that, bars were swapped for wide knuckleballs, stem for a shorter el-guapo, grips for suoercaz silicone, brake rotors for Shimano ice tech 203/180 (plus adapters and some shims). Canyon/Brand-x dropper, sells Italia saddle. I promised myself this was a bike for riding not upgrading and so far I've mostly stuck to that, the expensive bits like wheels/forks/drivechain have all great for the budget, or just plain great.
Still loving mine.
Cracked out some longer rides last summer (even did double Dalby on it), then became my go to bike over winter, and did everything great and practically faultless, especially when I treated it to a grippier front tyre and longer dropper. All set up as a not-light but half decent trail bike.
Currently getting gravel curious, so may get a lighter wheel set & tyres to scratch the itch...not sure how much scratching it would provide, but worth a go.
Bought mine frame only
Just done first ride (Exmoor) on frame-only build from their eBay shop. Not sure why I’d need to spend more tbh. It did everything well, climbs, descents. Moved parts across, so carbon wheels, SLX/XT drivetrain and brakes, 35mm SIDS. I worried slack ha would be an issue, but if anything it climbed better than previous bikes. 5’10” on a large, 35mm stem, felt spot-on.
Very pleased with mine.
Put some Hutchinson Griffus tyres on mine last week and did a superb ride in FoD earlier today.
Really impressed with its capabilities, not as harsh a ride as my old 905 and gets lots of admiring comments-more than any previous bike.
Won't replace much until I start breaking things, maybe upgrade wheels at some point.
The only downside is that the spec is a little budget based on what's currently available. It still rides well though. I would much rather have had shimano kit, rev forks, better wheels and finishing kit. But looking across most brands they all have the same limitations.
Just bought one of the "Slightly marked" frames from the Planet X ebay store.
What size headset cups do in need.
It looks like ZS56-40 for the bottom and ZS44 for the top?
Ta
Frame Material 6061-T6
Frame Weight, Approx, (med) (g) 2kg
Fork 120-130mm
RR Axle (mm) 148 BOOST M12 x 1.75, 12mm thread, 169mm
Seatpost Size (mm) 30.9
Seat Clamp Size (mm) 34.9
Front Mech Type NA
Wheels 29er
Max Tyre 29 x 2.6"
Mudguard mounts NA
Rack Mounts NA
Bottle Cage Bosses 1x
Brake Type DISC POST
Bottom Bracket BSA 73mm
Headset Type Selcof Zero Stack : Tapered / IS44/28.6 IS56/40
Fork Length (mm) 530
Cheers
Still confused though
Zero Stack should be ZS and the IS size for a bottom cup is normally 52 not 56.
Headset Type Selcof Zero Stack : Tapered / IS44/28.6 IS56/40
Shiny new frame arrived 🙂
I've got a choice of 140mm or 120mm for the fork in the bits I have lying around. Is anyone running theirs with a 140mm fork?
A 140mm X-Fusion in mine, but the RS35 that came with was actually set to 140mm rather than the advertised 130mm.
Rides ace.
Rhythm 34 140mm on mine, work just fine.
Nice one guys!
Depends what you want to do with it. I've predominantly had a 120mm Fox 32 on mine which keeps it light and fast but with a limit to how hard you can ride the rougher stuff. However I popped a 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm with big tyres on it last summer for a bit and it was awesome, was able to keep up with mates on much bigger bikes. It felt like the "right" fork for the frame but alas, the 34 was destined for a Sonder Evol build so the 32 went back on, still great but has lost a little capability for sure.
Zero Stack should be ZS and the IS size for a bottom cup is normally 52 not 56.
52mm is integrated (no cup, IS52)
56mm is zero stack (cup inside frame, ZS56).
You need the ZS56 version.
Here's mine built up now.
Only took it for a quick spin to check the brakes and gears but sizing fees spot on. Medium frame built up with 140mm fork, 35mm stem and 740mm bars - I'm 5'7" / 170cm.
Looking forward to taking it for a proper ride tomorrow
Having some trouble with my rear wheel. I think it's a formula hub.
Bearings completely shot, making a horrible racket. Have contacted planet X but wondering if anyone has replaced the bearings and has info. Can't find instructions so would be good to know bearing sizes and how it all comes apart.
Bit disappointing in a few months riding so hopefully I'll get something from planet X. Always a problem when buying full builds, corners cut where I wouldn't.
Bit disappointing in a few months riding so hopefully I’ll get something from planet X. Always a problem when buying full builds, corners cut where I wouldn’t.
What did you pay for a full build? £999?
Corners are not being cut, it's just a budget build. When we build a frame up to our standards they never come in on budget!
Perhaps just time to upgrade the wheels?
Depends on which Formula hub it is, I've had some on Cannondale Bikes and they've been utterly awful (at a much higher price point than the On-One), and another set that gave Hope a run for their money with their spin forever-ness and loud clicky precision. IIRC the hubs came apart with a cone spanner to remove the axle ends from the threaded axle like Shimano, but inside there were cartridge bearings. If it is that style then fixing it is completely intuitive (and they lasted a lot longer with better bearings).
That said I've also got a set of budget DT Swiss hubs with cup and cone bearings which are just as bad. So it's not just formula guilty of sticking their branding on cheap crap. Why is it that Shimano and Campagnolo are the only companies capable of making half-decent cup and cone hubs?
I'd badger Planet-X and not take no for an answer. I'm all for their business model when it works, but it's a PITA when it doesn't. For example, the San Marco saddle is really quite light and comfy and had a high RRP, they obviously just bought a container load of surplus stock for peanuts and thus that week/month/years bike gets that saddle till they run out. Repeat for a lot of the bike. They should still put it right if they've spec'd rubbish though.
I've got to say I'm really impressed with it.
Not really ridden a hardtail for a while. Tried a few over the years and never really go on with them.
The geometry is spot on and the frame strikes a good balance between being snappy enough without kicking your teeth in when you ride through rougher stuff.
Not sure I would spend £800 on the full price frame though
Yes I'm badgering them. Don't want to send things back to them though. I've changed to different tubeless tyres, saddle, dropper post so the bike isn't what I bought. Sold some of the other bits too.
I'm away at the minute so have taken a guess on the hub spec and ordered some bearings. Hopefully when I get it home and apart I'll have the right ones. I'm assuming that it will work the way as other cartridge hubs. Unthread the ends and then pull apart, drift out the bearings etc.
I have a passionate hatred of cup and cone, so you lost me there.
Hopefully I can do a simple bearing swap and I'll buy some SSC Element wheels when they come back in stock.
I have a passionate hatred of cup and cone, so you lost me there.
Sorry, I meant that the cheapest formuala hubs are cup and cone.
I just got an xl ebay frame and am looking for build parts. I'm almost chickening out since stuff seems scarce and I have nothing to hand except a spare saddle!
Anyone know what fork steerer length I need - I've seem one but is 183mm enough? The geometry table says 135mm headtube? I was looking at a Superstar headset but am unsure how much stack that leaves for the stem.
@pierhead I'd suggest you need a longer steerer until you've ridden it and decided you don't need as many stacks.
Did it come with a headset? If not I bought a Selcof headset with my frame for £12 and after I covered it in grease and cleaned it a few times it's done really well. The spec for what you need is on the scandal frame page on px website.
Start by putting up some wanted ads on the stw classified pages or buy a donor bike and sell what you don't need.
Mines built up with 10 speed and its just as good as my summer bike with more expensive kit on. You don't need to go mad on it!
I'm also running mine rigid with 2.6 inch tyres on.
Thanks, yes I think I really need a longer steerer but there's not much about. No headset yet but I was looking at the Superstar one as the Planet x selcof one is £60.
I havent much clue about what transmission I need either but cheap 10 speed would do. A donor bike is maybe a good idea for wheels, brakes, transmission, etc and sell frame and forks. I'll keep looking.
I have other bikes so there's no rush to build but I'm itching to get offroad more this summer. It'll be my first mtb since I bought a Saracen Conquest in the 80s!
There seems to be a typo on the headset spec given on the Planet X website
Headset Type Selcof Zero Stack : Tapered / IS44/28.6 IS56/40
its actually Tapered / ZS44/28.6 ZS56/40 which is a really common headset standard for tapered head tubes.
I bought a Nukeproof Neutron headset from CRC for about £30
I'd say you need a longer steerer than 183mm. It will probably just fit but with no spacers, so not much way to tune the bar position.
Thanks Rich. Too bad because the fork I'm watching seems perfect otherwise (except for the price it'll probably go for!). I guess I probably need to looking for a 200mm steerer so I have a bit of leeway. Not much on ebay, and even new 130mm travel forks seem thin on the ground.
Sell your frame and buy my complete large, issues with parts done in a flash. I was using it as a foot of the hill/ bikepacking bike.But a broken ankle and recently arrived tempest mean that any issues with getting bits will be LONG done before I am planning on using it again.
Maybe, though I'd have to sell the large I think - 6'4" 36" legs? Wonder if the forks off a large would fit an xl? I'll send you a message.
Finally picked a BrandX dropper for mine and will attempt to fit it myself. Anyone got any tips or how to links they used?
Sorted. Planet X are sending me some new bearings but the rear hub uses 6903 so I had a couple of Enduro ones in my spares. Not sure why!?
For reference you can easily remove the non drive axle nuts. Tap out the axle along with the freehub. Bash out the bearings and press in. Probably took me an hour going very carefully. Now I know the hub, probably a 10minute job.
It was the non drive that had gone. Probably due to lack of sealing on bearing (branded Xero). Drive side is better protected but replaced anyway as it was a bit rough. Hopefully get a year plus of smooth riding now.
Dropper post was pretty simple. It has to go into a port that's already used. I think the brake. I took the brake off at the bars to give slack.
Cable goes from post out of seat tube back into down tube then out at head tube.
It's a bit fiddly but not too hard. I have some thin plastic tubing that I used as a guide initially.
Anyone else work out that there's no drain hole under the BB...?
I rarely wash a bike unless it's severely filthy, but did on Sunday as it (and me) were covered in cow & sheep s**t. The cranks took a load of freeing when I pulled it out for a lunch spin.
Anyone drilled it yet, if you did, any pics?
Yes, I drilled a 2.5mm hole in between the cable guides just last week (sorry no photo). I got 350km out of my first bottom bracket before it seized. When I took it out a load of water came out (well, OK, maybe 5 ml)...and that's after it hadn't been ridden for 2 weeks, so I think a drain hole should help.
Complements to PX who built it: the whole BB inside was absolutely thick with grease; they couldn't have put any more in! Just a shame that wasn't enough to protect the bearings.
Not sure where water is getting in...down the cables? I have applied silicone sealant around the seat post, not sure that would work around the cable ports though.
Not sure where water is getting in
I've used some black sugru on my black frame to seal it as best I can.
@mcbyker please can you upload a photo of the hole you drilled? Thanks
