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Before I make an even more costly mistake I have a question on headset compatibility
Can anyone confirm if this is a substitute for the Planet X "Selcof Zero Stack : Tapered / IS44/28.6 IS56/40"
Or will I need to remove the the lever, drain the fluid, remove the olive and insert in order to get the hose through the frame?
What TINAS said. I cut off the olive and screwed a tiny woodscrew into the hose (screw head less than OD of the hose) to stop the fluid leaking, pushed it through the frame and reattached the lever with new barb and olive. Seems to work OK but I will bleed it to be on the safe side.
Top tip Hamish! Cheers!
Right then, old school topic for discussion with regard to Scandal builds - how much does yours weigh? And what sort of build?
Just got in from garage, mine is officially finished. Maybe. And ill be dammed if it doesnt look ace, and not weigh much, I'm very pleased! Photos and details tomorrow!
Mine is carbon rigid fork, shimano xt 1x10 (deore cassette) hope pro 4 on flow mk3 with 2.6 nobby nics (tubeless) and a dropper Post. Not weighed it recently but around 27 lbs if I had to guess.
That's encouraging, I'm hoping 28lb will stop mine with 120mm X Fusion forks, thomson post, WTB wheels, Deore/SLX drivetrain.
As far as cranks go - can I get away with running an old 2x crank with the ring in the outer position? I've test fitted the cup and driveside crank arm (SLX) with 32T ring - there's ample clearance for both the ring and crank on the chainstay, better than some of these boosted cranks in this thread I'd say. So as long as the chainline is OK I'm golden, right? And I'm aiming for 48-50mm?
I was using an old xt triple Chainset with a hope nw ring and it worked fine (10 speed)
I changed it to an m9000 xtr Chainset (non boost) but they were too narrow and wouldn't clear the chain stays. I then put on an xtr m9020 Chainset (non boost) with 32t oval ring and that was fine.
Its currently set up with a chain guide in place of the drive side spacer. Bit disappointed that it didn't have tabs but I guess they were keeping the costs down.
That's a point, I haven't got a BB spaced on the driveside yet, I'll bang one in and have a measure up. OneUp produced this a while back, seem to recall I used it to sort things out on my Bird Aeris.
Just a reminder - in case anyone wants to sell their carbon fork....
Here we go then -
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49897958792_2f10f6c99c_h.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49897958792_2f10f6c99c_h.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2j2j5Jm ]_20200515_141517[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/simonholehan/ ]simonholehan[/url], on Flickr
Its a size Medium, I'm often a large in some brands so its a good job I didnt get a large - thats only a 125mm dropper post almost completely inserted. I might want to slam the stem once I've ridden it too, and the forks are at 130mm which I suspect might also want to be shortened a bit in the future to sharpen it up and lower the front.
The paint finish is a great colour but its not gonna last - it picks up marks just by looking at it and chips very easy. Not an issue - just you get what you pay for.
Cable routing works great as all 4 cables fit perfectly and dont touch the headtube or mark anything at all, at full lock to lock - lots of bikes get this wrong!
I've not ridden it further than the end of the street but I like it. New forks from France, new M6000 brakes with tiddly rotors, Xfusion dropper 'new' on ebay, M9000 XTR from the garage, Deore cranks from the garage pile, cassette from the old gravel bike, bars, pedals stem all Nukeproof budget stuff from Ebay, Mavic Trail Elites 2nd hand locally, and a flipping fortune on some really good, lightweight tyres - Forekaster 2.35 front, Ikon 2.35 rear.
Its the first time in ages I've tried to at least think about the weight a little, hence little discs, wheel and tyre choice etc. Its only got 30x 11-40 gears which might limit me a bit but its a LOT lighter than my main bike and its for local riding not big days out.
Weighed with the bathroom scale +me method at 12.1kg (26.7 lbs) which I am really pleased with, comfortably the lightest Mountain Bike I've had in decades!
Looks ace! How tall are you then?
5ft 10 with short-ish legs ( 30 inch legs on my Jeans). Same issue with my Hightower, need a big one for the Top Tube length, but can only fit a 125mm dropper in. Off the shelf comes with a 170m 😀
I reckon Saddle will come up about 10mm and pretty sure I'll drop the stem by one 10mm spacer too, putting it a bit less laid back.
Looks awesome...quite a nice weight too.
Never needed a new bike but frame was Cheap so here we are 😊
Never been matchy matchy type so look away if easily offended! Awaiting brakes and she’s good to go. 21lbs so 23-24lbs once brakes fitted. Yes it’s a 29’r running 650b. Frame doesn’t know what size of wheels is on it 😉 Fast’ish xc rig maybe
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What cranks are people fitting? In the above posts seems like some are getting away with non-boost cranks.
Has anyone worked out the magic gear for single speed?
What cranks are people fitting? In the above posts seems like some are getting away with non-boost cranks.
I’ve got an old hollowtech triple on it with a Hope NW 32t on the middle ring tabs and it works fine. I’ve a Bird AM9 with non-boost xt double cranks and 32 ring and that’s fine too, just.
I'm sticking a Shimano 2x non-boost crank in mine, SLX or Deore, depends if the SLX will stay tight, splines are a bit worn... Ring in outer position. Seemed to recall that you need the spacer on the non driveside, measured it up like that and chainline is identical to that on another boost bike with boost crank I had access to.
Update - maiden ride.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49900762791_cb7a7ea69f_h.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49900762791_cb7a7ea69f_h.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2j2ysga ]_20200516_113449[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/simonholehan/ ]simonholehan[/url], on Flickr
Went and flogged myself silly for 43 miles this morning. It feels basically like you qpudl expect a reasonably light, balanced, not too extreme hardtail to feel - which is a compliment!
It was definitely worth spending the money on good, fast, lightweight tyres rather than dragging minions around as usual.
11-40 range is not quite enough!
Ref chain line, mines got a Deore triple with an Oval ring, this is the middle cog of an 11 speed cassette and its fractionally too far inboard. Works absolutely spot on, so yes, an Old triple works fine.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49901063672_a29f773d72_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49901063672_a29f773d72_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2j2zZGL ]DSCPDC_0000_BURST20200516110259502[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/simonholehan/ ]simonholehan[/url], on Flickr
Only real complaint is it makes a right racket even with NW and tight clutch mech. Not had a bike that does that for years either, so completely neglected to think about chainslap. Paint is wrecked already, couple of chips on the downtube too. Not really bothered, just an observation of where the savings are to be able to buy it for £150.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49900238848_32acd61256_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49900238848_32acd61256_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2j2vLvE ]DSC_6304[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/simonholehan/ ]simonholehan[/url], on Flickr
Great bike, enjoyed it!
Quite a healthy distance to test the bike...hopefully mine will be rolling by next weekend, especially since it doesn’t seem like a bad peddler.
Glad I kept my chain stay protector now though.
Looks ace, still wish that they did it in raw like the previous ones.
Steerer on selcof fork is really thick ? 1/8 bung is way to big !! Tried one from another of my bikes running 1/8 fork still too big. Ordered one for an 1” fork which I reckon will be spot on. Anyway short ride it’s all good(apart from temp bodge bung) as expected it’s harsh on the rough stuff but rapid on smoother terrain 🙂
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A 52mm skateboard wheel is an almost too perfect fit in the lower headset cup for anyone else trying to get their headset cup in a dented steerer tube without a headset press.
Oh and has anyone drilled a small drainage hole in the bottom of the bb shell? It looks like it's just going to be permanently full of water otherwise with all the holes in the tubes higher up.
Oh and has anyone drilled a small drainage hole in the bottom of the bb
I was drilling hole thanks for reminding me 👍🏻 All the internal routing is really well thought out. Easiest internal frame I’ve set up.
Oh and has anyone drilled a small drainage hole in the bottom of the bb shell? It looks like it’s just going to be permanently full of water otherwise with all the holes in the tubes higher up.
I'm going to fill the holes elsewhere first - especially the two at the top of the seat stays and see what water gets into the bb.
Steerer on selcof fork is really thick ? 1/8 bung is way to big !!
🙁
Maybe one of the planet x fork bungs fit?
Maybe one of the planet x fork bungs fit?
That’s what I pinched off another bike to check(23-24mm) internal marked on bottom same as current px one listed 🙁
If buying a new chainset (SLX), does anyone know the best version to get - m7100 (52mm chainline, boost or non-boost) or m7120 (55mm, boost only). I can see the SLX full bike uses the m7120 crank but the GX full bike has a 52mm chainline...
Or does it make no difference? (Not done the boost thing before!) Wheels will be boost hubs.
I've just fitted an slx m7000 boost crankset and for whatever reason have got away with a 34t oval ring which I certainly wasn't expecting.
I can see the chainline for the m7000 boost is 153mm, so the m7100 (52mm chainline) should be ok with 32t round chainring... but I’m just wondering why PX spec the 55mm chainline m7120. Is that just what they had or would it be better?
Another SLX M7000 Boost user here with no issues with chainline
New to this thread but very tempted. However, these frames are currently £600 on the website 😮 Have I missed something?
They were £150 with a headset a few weeks back the same price as the preorder last year thou they came without the headset
@trailtom. Nice build sir just enough red to complement without going overboard 👌🏻
That's a pretty humungous differential. At £150 I'd bite their arm off. A fourfold price hike however seems more than a tad excessive 🙁
That’s a pretty humungous differential. At £150 I’d bite their arm off. A fourfold price hike however seems more than a tad excessive 🙁
Fret not !
Most likely be on sale again at some point.
Thats taking the biscuit, they are worth about £150 and not bad value at that price. Birdshit welding and crap paint for £600 no way. They just loose credibility in my eyes with the pricing yoyo, ide be gutted if i paid £600 for one and compared it to something "nicer"... ymmv
They probably have a code to change price when stock is low.
Looking at the site they have no frames left. Just full builds at £1200.
I wonder if they will be able to get their hands on more stock?
They just loose credibility
I think it's been a decade since they had any.
They probably have a code to change price when stock is low.
I'm not sure px have a website quite that clever.
Although listed at that price you can't actually physically buy a scandal frame at the moment - there are no options to buy. Same with most of their frames, seem to have gone all full builds.
seem to have gone all full builds.
Probably low on stock, you make more money from full builds and keeps staff busy. Possibly more demand for full bikes at the moment from new cyclists not able to build a bike.
Oh my flipping days! Internal cable routing fun today!
First of all, if you thread the brake hose and gear cable through the removable black insert without it being attached to the bike it’s quite a game to get the screw back in past the cable/hose. That was a fun game.
Then I’ve had to walk away from trying to route the dropper cable through the other bikes in the down tube as I just can’t seem to get a cable inner through and back out to guide the outer through. Even with the fork out and a light poked through the small hole from the head tube to down tube so I can see what’s happening slightly more easily.
I’m getting the feeling that I should have done that one first, but now I’ve connected and rebled the brake hose I really don’t want to remove it again.
Any tips before I resort to just running it externally down to the bottom bracket?
Brake hose goes through the *big* hole on the right hand side, surely?
I'm afraid to say I found it the easiest internal routing I've ever used? (not rubbing it in, I know the stress!).
I found the cable routing on my scandal one of the best and easiest bikes I've ever done! Just don't drop the screw.
Have you removed the bb?
I made the assumption that the dropper would go through the individual holes in the down tube as they are the same as the hole in the seat tube. Guess the issue would remain whatever I tried to thread through it!
I will try dropping the cranks and bb out tomorrow and see if that helps me get it through from top to bottom.
Easiest internal routing I’ve done too. Obviously the black plug(unscrew pop out) feed cable from opposite end. Dropper I fed up from bottom to black removable plug all good. As mentioned getting screw back in to secure grommets bit fiddly but no drama.
Why does removing the BB make the routeing any easier?
NB I also ran the dropper cable through the single hole on the right of the downtube. All worked pretty well - I did that one from the top down to the removable cover and hooked the outer out with a hook pick.
Finished the build today. Need to adjust the saddle angle, and probably take a couple of links out of the chain.
What bars have you got on there? They look a nice shape.
Having sold off a chunk of bits having cancelled my build.... I got to the frame to sell and thought... Hang on.
So the build is back on!
The gravel bike might need to go.
What bars have you got on there? They look a nice shape.
They’re some RSP carbon ones from a PSA a few years ago. Been fine for me but a few on here reckon they can be cracky.
@hamishthecat I have also bought a large andwas hoping to fit the crank brothers 170mm. I am worrying about fit and adjustment as it has a long insertion length.
Do you know if it can fit right in so the collar is at the seat clamp? In theory it should but wasn't sure if the bend in the seat tube would prevent it.
I’m running crank bros 170mm on my medium scandal no issue. I do have very long legs though !
Before I tightened mine up it slid almost down to the collar so reckon you’ll be fine on large
Yes, likewise - it dropped right to the collar before I’d tightened the clamp so it will fit no problem.
Fresh set of eyes and a better torch than my phone and it took 2 min to sort the dropper cable routing.
Now finished the build. Forks and dropper from Alltricks, eBay Whyte wheels, GX/Guide groupset from the shed along with the bars and stem.
It’s a size L, I’m 6’2” with a 34” inside leg and it feels fine size wise with a 40mm stem. Think the XL would have been a bit long although would have been less post showing! (That’s a 170mm drop so I guess a 200mm would fit easily).
Wont get to ride it until next weekend mind, too busy with work!
Looks good 👍🏻 I’ve got my rear brake and dropper opposite way from yours maybe why it was slightly easier to route ?
Love the orange outer on shifter ! Pimp 👌🏻
Lol, orange outer was all I had in shed, left over from my last road bike! (Well, there’s a load of pink from the Mrs’ bike but that would be a little odd.)
As far as the cables go, I thought it was supposed to be like that as the ports match the one on the seat post but I guess it doesn’t matter that much.
I had to add, I've been out on mine today on my local trails. Dry, wriggly short sprints on wooded singletrack and lots of park paths and suburban bridleways. It's an abolute flying machine, I love it.
I bought one from the original pre-order batch and was very happy with it. Sold on now as wifey moaned about too many bikes....Im 5'10 and if I was to do it again I would buy an XL and go with a sub 50mm stem. Cable routing was fine, a bit rattly... but solved with a bit of insulation tape. Yes paint is very thin but at 150 notes it was a no brainer. Great winter hardtail for where I live. Having said that I now spend 75%+ of my MTB time on the ebike.
First ride today - 20 miler from home. Certain amount of confirmatory bias no doubt, but really like it and even got a KOM. Running it 27.5+ and managed to pinch puncture the rear on the KOM effort... Fortunately my multitool has an 8mm key on it as I had to put a tube in.
If anyone bought a Large and is having second thoughts, let me know I'll buy it rather than you send it back etc.
Either with/without the carbon rigid fork. Not fussed about any cosmetic damage. Cheers.
First proper ride today. Good mix of singletrack rough and smooth. Accelerates well on 27.5(tyres from spares box 2.1’s are lethal !! Reckon 2.6’s is way forward for grip and bit cushioning 🙂
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Finally got mine out for a 20 mile test ride today...bloody brilliant bike.
The rear brake mount is a bit awkward to get to, but other than that no complaints that my fault.
Hardly been off mine these past six months or so. I was finding it just a touch too harsh so swapped the lock ons for some slide on with hairspray ones, and I've replaced the Fizik saddle with a digital camo Charge Spoon which feels like it's made a huge difference. Tempted to try it on a set of 27½ plus size wheels and tyres if it doesn't actually make a lasting improvement.
It's taken a bit of tweaking here and there but I'm really enjoying it.
Think my total spend is still under £500, and there's no way I could buy anything comparable for that.
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Liking the blue highlights there 🙂 think my cheap blue grips will be ok!
Ive been toying with the idea of a B+ rear wheel as well, bit of comfort and to lower/slacken it just a touch.
Only reason Ive not really is the Fulcrum's are fine and I already have a set of 29x40mm rims ready to build up, just need to choose some hubs.
Anyone aware of any bargains?
If like some purple Hope Pro4's
I have a spare set of Hope Pro2 Evos, but they would need a new microspline freehub, 12mm addapters, 15mm addapters, and boost addapters, which makes them actually quite expensive and I'd earmarked them for the next road/cross wheelset.
There's some complete DT 370 32h micro spline rear wheels on ebay for £140, which seems like the cheapest way of getting DT hubs, but not sure about the 18t ratchet.
Or there's the chinese/tiawanese option, but novatec, bitex and powerway dont seem to do micro-spline yet and im reluctant to step outside what I know too much. Koozer do some interesting stuff including a 300g DT style ratchet hub sprung with magnets! But the 12s freehub is only available as an add on so they end up £120 for an unknown.
gone mine built up* and ridden, no pics but who cares, not got a dropper post sorted yet, old school qr, but I've mainly been exploring local stuff so not needed to drop saddle, dunno how it handles gnar yet. Slacker than my v2 scandal but not as slack as my fs, just what I was after.
Im getting a bit of rattling over bumps, wondering if its cables inside the frame, everything else seems tight, anyone else suffer from this?
Used a boostinator to fit my old 135mm rear wheel, seems to be working ok, will need to sort something else out coz the ageing crest on there prob wont put up with the punishment I'll end up putting it thru. Ive already tweaked saddle position, bars felt right from the off, may have a play around with them tho.
*Had a hard time during build, everything that could go wrong did, but weirdest was when I fit the rear hub while I fitted the chain, later I went to remove the wheel again, realised it was 8mm, but the only 8mm allen key I have is in my camelbak, which was still the cupboard, so how the hell did I fit it?
Finished building my Scandal up this weekend, and just completed my third ride on it.
Very, very pleased with it.
It's a mix of shed parts and components from a donor bike, oh plus I nicked the 27.5 Plus wheels off my Focus Jam2, until the 29er back wheel arrives.
I'm loving the geometry very confidence inspiring, particularly with the Monster Truck tyres.
It weighs a reasonable 30Lbs with the big tyres, so should come in Sub 30lbs with the 29er wheels and 2.4 tyres.
I seem to have messed up posting the pics!!
Any tips on how to do it?
I'm on a MacBook - Cheers
click img button and paste the address of the image, click "ok", hit return click img again for pic 2, etc
afaik the forum doesnt host pics itself.
looks like you're using https://www.flickr.com/cameraroll/ as the IMG link which isnt sufficient, you need the address of the picture itself
Thanks DONK.
I use this to post pictures
Upload and copy the img hotlink for forums link. Then just paste it
Finally figured it out!!!
Here are the rest of the photos.
You can see from one of the shots that even with a Maxxis Minion DHR II 2.8, there's still loads of clearance.
I had some of the issues mentioned on here during the build:
Yes. I dropped one of the little screws from the top cable guide into the frame the instant I unscrewed it!
Had to take the forks off to get the screw out through the head tube!
Also wrestled with the cable routing a bit, but found some good tips on here.
Thanks guys!
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Just waiting for a part so I can fit my dropper. It's a superb bike!
Some of these look really good, especially the orange ones.
Not sure why there's a chainstay protector on that singlespeed one though?
The dropper post hose routing under the BB shell and into the rear of the seat-tube......why don't other companies do this? It looks much tidier than from the top of the down-tube to the front of the seat-tube.
I havent looked, but have you looked at Shimano Hubs? The new Deore can be had boost, microspline etc and even have cartridge bearings. Can't be that expensive...?