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Is it the same as the one used to attach disc rotors?
Stripped down the bike thinking "yeah! Let's go ride!" but am now left with an almost functioning bike, bar the cranks.
Bugger.
Which crankset have you got? Are you trying to remove the chainring, or spider too?
If it looks like this then I believe they are T-30 torx key.
The rotors usually use T-25 torx keys.
Assuming you mean direct mount - you need one of these widgets...
I think I had one come with some Shimano cranks, but it was too tight to fit over the spindle.
One of these Chinese thingies does the job perfectly.
It’s the bottom bracket one… not that one, the smaller one that shimano sometimes provide as an insert with a new bb to fit inside the older tool. However, it is really tricky to use that insert in my experience because of the lack of access. The best I managed was to fit the insert in a vice and turn the ring against it.
Then I bought the correct tool.
Yeah, sorry... The spider thingy.
So the BB tool for smaller Shimano BBs...
Annoyingly I used to have one of those but don't know where it ended up. Grrr.
Unfortunately the torx bolts that hold the chainring to the spider have a small 'pip' in the middle, preventing use of a normal allen key. And replacement bolts don't seem to be available. Incredibly annoying as they will loosen and fall out after a while.
I had to buy a new ring and spider eventually, even though the chain ring itself was fine. Pretty poor show by Shimano.
<p style="text-align: left;">Unfortunately the torx bolts that hold the chainring to the spider have a small ‘pip’ in the middle, preventing use of a normal allen key.</p>
They are torx so don't use an Allen key. A lot of torx keys/drivers have got a recess in the middle to accommodate the security pip.
Good idea on looking for a security key, hadn't thought of that.
Still poor show by Shimano for fitting them, also replacement chainrings don't seem to be available, only ring + spider?
(I'm still bitter because of having a ride curtailed by not being able to tighten a few bolts on the trail).
Those bolts aren’t supposed to be removed according to Shimano, the whole ring and spider is supposed to be replaced. That’s what they told my mate when he lost some of the bolts (SLX)
Why does the ring bolt onto the spider if you can't replace the ring separately? Why did they bother with direct mount at all?
Annoyingly I used to have one of those but don’t know where it ended up. Grrr.
Probably with your van key...
Still poor show by Shimano for fitting them, also replacement chainrings don’t seem to be available, only ring + spider?
Eldest_oab just found some aftermarket ones to get rid of the spider & chainring.
I *think* these (it is certainly black and copper splatter effect 😎 )
https://uniteco.bike/shop/drivetrain/chainrings/shimano-chainring-direct-mount/
He also considered a OneUp Switch chainring carrier - https://www.biketart.com/products/oneup-switch-chainring-carrier?variant=40808594866355
Doesn't help that they've changed the ring pattern every time they've updated since good old 104BCD.
Shame the industry couldn't settle on a single DM standard.
Annoyingly I used to have one of those but don’t know where it ended up. Grrr.
Its right next to your van key
He also considered a OneUp Switch chainring carrier
That’s what I did to run 11speed.
Its right next to your van key
I'm not driving back to the Pyrenees to check..... Although the price of the key is several times the amount of diesel I would burn getting there.....
Those SLX chainrings use a T15H(hollow).
I assume it's to combine steel teeth & an alloy spider, but I don't why they don't just use a rivet.
I've used a couple of these rings as they're actually available in different sizes unlike Shimano and much cheaper. I got the tool from aliexpress too.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000989542507.html
I've somehow ended up with 3 sets of those security/hollow torx bits and even a set of hollow torx keys that came free with some Allen keys, admittedly I bought one set just cos it had colour coded anodised rings attached to the bits and an anodised quick chuck so couldn't resist due to my addiction of anything shiny and anodised. The blue lockring tool on eBay is a good purchase, despite being cheap it's a quality item that works perfectly so no need to spend on a park or Shimano one.
I’ve used a couple of these rings as they’re actually available in different sizes unlike Shimano and much cheaper.
Shame they don't do a 28t version.
Surprisingly limited choice and some of the aftermarket ones take the absolute piss on price.
Went to a bike shop. Asked the guy is he had the tool to swap the chain ring/spider.
He proudly told me he did, but that it was his to use and not for customers.
30€ (!!?) and he would swap it over. I asked him how much the tool was. 49.95€. I've now got the thingy to do the job myself. Steep, I know, but it won't be the first time I need it and it does disc brakes, too.
In a pinch you can snap off the security pin in the middle with a small flat screwdriver.
30 euros for a 5 minute job, 50 euros for the tool, Ouch.
Going off those shop rates, my £6 blue one off eBay has already saved me over £100 and it still looks as good as new.
Official tools are
TL-FC33 for older (larger, e.g. BB52) Hollowtech II BB
TL-FC37 for newer (smaller, e.g. MT800) Hollowtech II BB, or use a TL-FC25 adapter in a TL-FC33
TL-FC41 for direct mount chainrings
Not sure what does which Centerlock rotor versions.
Apparently centrelock used the older hollowtech ll tool for thru axles hubs but its a bad fit imho.
Yup my adaptor came with the cranks, tis a snug fit over spindle(or well machined),then newer bb adaptor with hollowtech tool, works a treat.Changed chainring a few times.
I'm still confused by this design
Why did Shimano go direct mount and then make the direct mount ring in two parts anyway? If this is to allow for a lighter aluminium spider, well, that's what they already had...
I've the same questions...
Don't understand the confusion - gives a lightweight and really durable ring, unlike the aftermarket alternatives.
I think the spider is the same size for 28/30/32t so it is a single casting across all models and sizes (with varying finish) coupled to a steel ring for longevity. Guess it keeps overall costs down?
Strikes me as right materials for the right jobs? Apart from the security t-15 that came undone on me. But I guess this is a simpler task than employing a heavy riveter?
This should do it...
There is absolutely nothing lightweight about that ring especially considering its a 28t
Ditched mine for a bling gold absolute black oval 30t using the aforementioned bling blue tool - I just wish the ring had been as cheap as the tool!
Don’t understand the confusion – gives a lightweight and really durable ring, unlike the aftermarket alternatives.
It def makes sense to have an alu spider and steel ring
What doesn't make sense is to separate the spider from the crank and turn it into a wear part, as shimano has done, and have the ring and spider as separate parts as well
What doesn’t make sense is to separate the spider from the crank and turn it into a wear part, as shimano has done, and have the ring and spider as separate parts as well
what makes even less sense is what the latest sram road cranks have - a power meter and the chainring as a single unit, so when you wear your chainring, you have to bin the power meter too - oh that's £1300 for a new set of rings 😮
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.SRAM-Red-AXS-Power-Meter-Kit-Direct-Mount_237872.htm
That’s insane
what makes even less sense is what the latest sram road cranks have – a power meter and the chainring as a single unit, so when you wear your chainring, you have to bin the power meter too – oh that’s £1300 for a new set of rings 😮
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.SRAM-Red-AXS-Power-Meter-Kit-Direct-Mount_237872.htm/blockquote >
WTF that needs a thread of it's own for us to rant about
Is that definitely correct?
Jesus it is true
Only you get a 50% discount on replacements (same size chainrings only) once you send the old one to be recycled...
A Pinion gearbox suddenly seems like a bargain
what makes even less sense is what the latest sram road cranks
Sounds like typical SRAM to me. All the design technicality in the world and not a drop of common sense. Hence why I just say NO to any SRAM.
with the Shimano design - it is cheaper to just wop on an aftermarket complete ring and spider and suck up a few grammes extra weight. And I suspect weight is the driving force behind it, not maintainability...
@blake if you still have the shimano chainring with missing bolts and a receipt (within 2 years), its a warranty job, wiggle replaced an XT one for me.
Only you get a 50% discount on replacements (same size chainrings only) once you send the old one to be recycled…
50% off the local retail price (which is bound to be RRP) - I bet the replacements online will have discounts over time to almost make that not worth it.
I get that road chainrings tend to last a long time (and red is probably mostly used on summer day only bikes) but still, its a right piss take
@whatyadoinsucka thanks that's useful to know, next time it happens I'll try warranty.
The expectation by Shimano that you should bin a perfectly good spider to replace the chainring, when there's already a bolt that can be undone, seems bizarre and unnecessarily wasteful.
I'm generally a Shimano fanboy but this + having to buy a whole new brake caliper (rather than a couple of seals) has put me off a bit. I assume SRAM is just as bad / worse though.