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I've just started riding to work on the bike again and would like to carry on riding as much as I can even when the weather is bad, so I was thinking mud guards for the road bike might be a good idea to try keep some of the water off me. While I know lots about mountain bikes I know bugger all about road bikes so looking for some help and advice.
Do road bike mudguards work any better than mud guards on a mountain bike?
My experience with various different types of guards on the MTB is they don't really stop the spray and stop you getting muddy at all. A small device on the front to stop mud going in your face is useful but as far as trying to prevent getting covered in mud goes I didn't find they were much use. Road bike guards follow the contour of the tyre much more so look like they should be more effective but does this work in reality?
Secondly assuming the guards are useful can you recommend any to me?
I have a GT Grade Carbon bike, [url= http://www.wiggle.co.uk/gt-grade-carbon-tiagra-2017-adventure-road-bike/ ]this one[/url] and its running standard tyres; Clement Strada Ush 700x32c in case that info is useful.
thanks in advance.
if your frame has mudguard eyelets then get proper fixed, full length guards and a front mudflap to keep your shoes dry. They're not comparable with MTB guards which are mainly to keep stuff out of your eyes, fitted properly they'll keep crap off you and the bike so it gets much less of a battering over winter.
They're a bit of a chore to fit but I've had decent service from SKS guards - make sure you get the right width for your tyres though - the stated widths are for the guard, not the tyre they fit so choose bigger.
Yes, they’re substantially better. Don’t get clip ons, just fit some SKS Chromoplastics or PDW Full Metal Fenders and enjoy a dry bottom.
If you have the eyelets to mount them then SKS Chromoplastics are very, very good, keep a lot of crap of feet and backside and generally make wet weather riding more tolerable. They are however an absolute nightmare to fit, allow lots of time, be patient and ideally have beer or tea to hand.
SKS.
Takes about 20 minutes to fit them.
Two skinned knuckles and 9 swear words to get the stays cut to length.
Then an hour and 16 swearwords after your first ride to get them straight and rub/rattle free.
The second pair takes 20 minutes all in.
Most of mine (4 sets at the moment) have been fitted for several years without any issue.
Fit a long front mudflap if you ride only on your own. Get two if you ever ride with others. The stock "flaps" are utterly useless. Seem to direct the water onto your feet.
If you know what you are doing, and are lucky with fixing points on frame and don't need some bodging witchcraft which will cost a further 3hrs and 27 swear words.Takes about 20 minutes to fit them.
Can be avoided with a Dremmel, but the sparks may set fire to your kitchenTwo skinned knuckles and 9 swear words to get the stays cut to length.
Guess I was lucky as I avoided this step 🙂Then an hour and 16 swearwords after your first ride to get them straight and rub/rattle free.
It's really not that hard. Some cheap 6" bolt cutters make it a breeze. And they're a world apart from MTB mudguards.
If you don't have eyelets then take a look at Axiom Axlerunners.
how are you guys making the mudflaps?
I bought some Raw Flaps. The stealth reflective black ones are quite nice.
+1 for Raw Flaps, colour coordinated, custom designs, different lengths, what's not to like? 8)
In general, the PDWs on my winter commuter have been a revelation, relatively quick and easy to fit, great coverage and so far almost silent and rattle free. Definitely better than SKS guards I've used in the past, but they would have to be for the price!
In general, riding with proper guards has been a revelation, I never thought I cared much about getting wet on rides from road spray, but on those grotty looking days when you're struggling to motivate yourself, just knowing how much drier and more comfortable I'll remain on the bike with mudguards makes all the difference.
My poor sunday best road racer has sat unridden since I bought it because it arrived at the start of Autumn and every ride I've been for since I've preferred my heavier singlespeed commuter, mostly because of the mudguards.
Suspect I'll become one of those pedants on the review websites who always asks if a manufacturer's latest model has mudguard eyelets or not 🙄
lovely thanks for the feedback everyone. I don't know if I have mudguard eyelets or not on the bike will have a look when I head home.
SKS.
Takes about 20 minutes to fit them.
I have never fitted SKS mudguards in anything like 20 minutes. There's always something that needs bodging drilling or bending somehow.
I don't know if I have mudguard eyelets or not on the bike will have a look when I head home.
According to pictures, the fork has all the necessary eyelets. There appear to be eyelets at the rear dropouts, too, but you have no seat stay bridge (not the end of the world but you may benefit from guards with movable stay attachments to bring them forwards somewhat); the chainstay bridge isn't clear, but the front mech cable routing might be fun…
SKS Beavertail (or XL version in my case on the Wazoo for when I'm running 29er wheels with <58mm tyres), fitted bracket in <2mins, guard added/removed in under 30secs including negotiating the front derailleur cable.
Full road bike guards are like magic. Love them.
Pay the LBS to fit them. They need to earn a living.
SKS or Tortec (same as SKS but with reflective bits.)
They transform spring/autumn/winter riding. And anyone you ride with will be eternally greatful. Anyone who doesn’t bother with them is wrong and quite possibly mad.
[quote="HoratioHufnagel"]I have never fitted SKS mudguards in anything like 20 minutes.Hmmm, fairly normal aluminium training frame, all the eyelets and bridges are in place (as it's a training bike) long drop calipers, 28mm tyres. The longest job is probably getting the rear brake on, tight and straight (other than hacking at the stays with a blunt hacksaw, probably why they needed to be straightened up after the first ride!).
Does help that i've got more tools than Tim Allen and the bike is on a stand and i can get all the way round it without ducking or swearing.
Did have one set once that seemed to have been sat on, the actual guards were bent out of plane. So impossible to fit.
Hmmm, fairly normal aluminium training frame, all the eyelets and bridges are in place (as it's a training bike)
You would think so. I do wonder sometimes when the bike is designed and eyelets and bridges put in place whether designers actually do it to fit a guard or they just stick them wherever roughly fits the frame.
The air cut off makes light work of the stays .
Proper mudguards make a big difference. Keep your arse dry and your bike clean...ish. Definitely worth having in the winter. Can be a bit of a pain in the arse to fit, depending on bike, tyres, etc, due to the small margins. But worth it once you get it right.
But what about toe overlap? Ive already got a little, I'm concerned it would be really bad with guards...
Pedal position is everything.
If it's a fixie fair enough .
But if it's a road bike you just need to think pedal position . The same way you would when railing a berm.
I've got them on a fixie and toe overlap has never been an issue. You don't actually turn your bars a huge amount on the road so it's not as bigger issue as you might think.
Diy mudflaps can be made out of any relatively rigid sheet if plastic - mine are spare bits of damp proof course from our extension. A couple of short bolts and locking nuts to attach, never had a problem with them.
Flaps can also be made out of cut up old bottles, chop up to shape and attach, sorted.
Sorry folks, embarrassed to start ANOTHER thread on this, but how are folks getting on with squeezing narrow PDWs into there road bikes?
Only riding my singlespeex at the moment because it has guards, but would like to give my knees a little respite when visiting the local 'Alps'...
I have a GT Grade Carbon bike, this one and its running standard tyres; Clement Strada Ush 700x32c in case that info is useful.
OP, the weak point on the Grade is the little plastic clip that serves as a seat stay bridge. Mine wore through the outer carbon layer, right down to the fibreglass core. Tried to reclaim on warranty but GT said no deal. Make sure you wrap plenty of duct tape around the stays.
I use [url= http://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/bluemels/ ]SKS Bluemels[/url], they're cheap and fit easily. You have to use a spacer on the front RH fixing so the stay will clear the caliper. I just used a nut. On and off in a couple of minutes.
Mine are the 35mm (32c tyres) - I'd size up if I were buying again as the spray gets around the edge of the front guard. They do work though, I wouldn't be without them. If it's raining, you're going to get wet anyway, but it won't be dirty road spray (diesel, slug innards, slurry running off fields). And when it isn't raining but the roads are wet, there's not much worse than a wet arse half a mile after leaving the house.
Takes about 20 minutes to fit them.
maybe if you are a pro.
I've done ~10 sets and i reckon it's ~40 minutes. Even fitting a set which are set up takes about 10 minutes. No way 20 minutes the first time.
There are some really good how-to videos online (rivendell springs to mind).
+1 for sks. I was planning upgrading to PDW, but not since brexit. 😥
But what about toe overlap?
I have toe overlap on fixed and it only touchs stopped at lights; you just dont move your wheel that much; plus it only happens at one point in the revolution. Even weaving through traffic.
Try fitting the [url= http://www.swarfcycles.co.uk/store/p2/Carbon_Fibre_Mudguards.html ]Swarf Cycles carbon guards [/url]in 20 minutes! Took about four hours. This includes drilling the carbon, because not a single bracket is fastened to the carbon! And the fixings are nothing like SKS. And I drilled the rear fenderbot holes off-centre 🙁 . Still the result looks good overall, and they are excellent with 28c tyres.
If you don't have eyelets, get frame and forks with them.
SKS chromoplastics or longboards are popular for a reason (I had some other more flimsy SKS and they weren't as good).
You might have to bend the stays around disc brakes if you run them, depending on where your mudguard eyelets are.
And yes, it's a totally different effect from MTB mudguards - you don't have to have space for large amounts of mud, which means far better coverage. You might get a bit of road spray on your legs in filthy weather, that's about it. Oh and toe overlap can be a bit of an issue, but it won't affect you when moving, just starting and stopping (and you have to think when trackstanding).
