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After a near race ending mechanical on last weekends adventure race I am thinking of going down the 1 x 11 route as a way of reducing possible scenarios which would lead to a DNF.
My usual gearing is 24 or 26 / 36 or 38T at the front and 11 - 32 or 34 at the back.
Would I be able to get close to that range with 1 x 11?
Would I need a new hub or would my current CK one be able to cope with an 11 speed cassette?
Thank you!
Would I be able to get close to that range with 1 x 11?
As near as damn it, yes, assuming SRAM 10-42
Yes to a new hub for SRAM 11sp, no to Shimano's when it comes out, although theirs is 11-40 I think, so a slight loss at either end regarding gear ratios.
Can CK hubs be converted to 11sp? maybe
Why not 1x10 with an 11-36 on the rear. That way you won't have to dispose of a perfectly good wheel/hub.
what size at the front to give the required range??
I am no god at working stuff like this out!
Why not 1x10 with an 11-36 on the rear
For normal riding this is fine as I've been running it all year, however there are times in races where I miss the extremes that 10-42 gives, especially where there is a tarmac master start for example and the pace is through the roof to be the first to the singletrack.
32 for climbing, 34 for the fast stuff to equal what you've got. Get both and simply change them depending on the course, no need to change the chain length. Simple solution.
http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
Would I be able to get close to that range with 1 x 11?
The maths is simple eg.
Low gear comparison:-
24/34 = 0.706
30/42 = 0.714 (fractionally higher but v. close. Doubt you would notice the difference)
High gear comparison
38/11 = 3.454
30/10 = 3.000 (so a little bit lower, but only an issue if you need the higher gears)
Alternatively you could go 32 on the front, but then you give a bit away on the low gearing.
The gear calculator website is good once you suss out how to use it. Link [url= http://www.gear-calculator.com/# ]here.[/url] YOu can use the compare option to compare what you have now with what 1 x 11 would give. You can use the presets for chainrings and cogs in the drop down menus but can just drag the cogs/chainrings about to customise. For a single chainring just select one of the pre-configured combinations and drag the ring(s) you don't want over to the left so you only have one left then drag it to wherever you want (34, 36, 36 etc).
Hope that makes sense. Its relatively easy to use once you work out the basics I described above.
Oh interested on peoples opinions too.. Just acquired a new bike with 1x11 with xx1 and x01 drivetrain.. Was a little concerned it wouldn't give me the range I've been used to with my old triple 9 speed!?
I believe on a lot of frames you can't go any larger than a 32t on the front?! Seems that way on my Niner!
Not taken out so only time will tell 🙂
I have a 32 front on my niner, its pretty good - it worked fine at 24/12 and at Oktoberfest - the only limitation being my fitness. Its been very reliable, the one thing I've found is the multiple shifting required when going from a steep climb to flat section - but then you'd do that with a twin/triple front set-up.
I believe on a lot of frames you can't go any larger than a 32t on the front?! Seems that way on my Niner!
Bear in mind that's a 29er where gearing is about 10% 'higher' than on 26" wheels - so more like a 36t on 26" wheels, should be more than enough for most.
I'm a big fan of 1x11. I liked 1x10, but I do find myself using the extremes far less, and it is noticeable, at both ends that you've got a significantly wider range. I'd say you'd need to be pretty strong with 1x10, whilst I think 1x11 is fine for a much wider range of riders/riding.
OP. I went through the same thought process as you and I found I could get the same range but obviously lost a couple of ratios. It works well for me on winch & plummet style rides but less for traditional and flattish XC where double/triple options work best for me.
I demo'd a bike with 1x11 last weekend and came to the conclusion it had no where near the range I use/want/prefer/etc for the riding I do.
It works well for me on winch & plummet style rides but less for traditional and flattish XC where double/triple options work best for me.
See I've taken mine on road group rides and sat at >20mph for miles not even in the 10t. I find it spot on for XC riding.
I demo'd a bike with 1x11 last weekend and came to the conclusion it had no where near the range I use/want/prefer/etc for the riding I do.
High or low end or both? What sort of riding?
Interested as I'm about to go 1x11 and most worried about the low range
The ride was just around a test loop. Not too taxing but a good spread of terrain. 1x11 was just about enough for that but I was looking for gears that were not there. I like to do all kinds of riding and for any distance rides across the Dales I would need more top and bottom end.
Great link above! Heres my comparison of my current triple 9 speed, to a 1x11,
So am I losing two road stomping speed gears, and the granny would be a little harder uphill?
See I've taken mine on road group rides and sat at >20mph for miles not even in the 10t. I find it spot on for XC riding.
That's because you are a lot fitter than me.
^^ I know this from your other posts!
I find for any sort of flat road work, or downhill road work, i'm always in 44/9, i'm sure i'd miss this with 32/10 max gear
Same here. Although I am usually in middle front + use all out back I do often go to both extremes of my 3/10 system. Think I could get away with 2x but defo not 1x.
cruzcampo - Member
I find for any sort of flat road work, or downhill road work, i'm always in 44/9, i'm sure i'd miss this with 32/10 max gear
Guessing you mean 44-11 - you won't have a 9t cog unless you have a SRAM 11 speed cassette back there
So you could get the same with 1x11 using a 36t ring up front with the 9t at the back
ah I did mean 11 😀
So with a 36t single up front whats the biggest cassette range I could have on the back?
That's because you are a lot fitter than me.
Not what I meant to imply! Was assuming that by saying you preferred a double or triple though that you felt you needed more top end?
cruzcampo - Member
I find for any sort of flat road work, or downhill road work, i'm always in 44/9, i'm sure i'd miss this with 32/10 max gear
XX1, X01 or X1 would give you 9-42. It's a compromise, vertainly, but a good one for most folks.
[img] 
[/img]
Handy comparison
mike - useful table that. I'm starting my 1x11 setup with a 30T chainring and still a bit concerned that the lowest gear won't be low enough for the steepest tech climbs. Especially as I'm also going from 26 to 29 inch wheels so the overall gearing will be higher. I reckon I might need a 28T chainring to have something close to what I'm used to. Or better still get fitter!
the ex started with a 34 on 29, she did fine... now on 32. Try it and see, a 30t will be between 32 and 36 on the back on a 24 a crawler gear 🙂
XX1, X01 or X1 would give you 9-42. It's a compromise, vertainly, but a good one for most folks.
10-42, no 9t. Capreo has a 9t, but is a few years old and for road bikes only, a few prototype things have had 9s too.
I find a 32t fine (on a 29er), if I was changing I'd probably go to 30t rather than 34t.
Do many XC racers use single chainrings?
Just gone 32x36 on my 26'er and its fine for everything but the steepest stuff. Just wondering if I'd run out of gears for racing though?
There is now a freehub for SRAM 11 speed on CK hubs
Do many XC racers use single chainrings?Just gone 32x36 on my 26'er and its fine for everything but the steepest stuff. Just wondering if I'd run out of gears for racing though?
Yes, most have been doing so for a few years. I ran a 36t 1x10 on 26" wheels, and only twice did I have issues at the bottom end in 4 years use (Margam and Mayhem last year, both in the wet). How strong are you?!
the ex started with a 34 on 29, she did fine... now on 32. Try it and see, a 30t will be between 32 and 36 on the back on a 24 a crawler gear
Yeah I think it will be okay most of the time. But I'm probably close to worst case scenario for gearing i.e. 90 kg + 6" travel "enduro" bike + v. steep tech climbs + sit and spin style + average fitness. I was running a 22T granny ring on my old 26" bike. At least the new bike is about 5 lb lighter and once I get back to my fighting weight of around 84 kg I will probably be okay. May also encourage me to try climbing out of the saddle more often. I'm lazy if the gearing allows 😉
No inherent advantage to climbing out of the saddle, just tires you out more, I'd certainly not want to do it through necessity. I'd definitely try it first, there's no cheap solution if you find the gearing lacking.
Yes, most have been doing so for a few years. I ran a 36t 1x10 on 26" wheels, and only twice did I have issues at the bottom end in 4 years use (Margam and Mayhem last year, both in the wet). How strong are you?!
Strong, but not light being over six foot!
I had a very low gear on the old HT, 20/34..... 😛 which worked out (according to Sheldon Browns scale) was a 15.5" gear, which was ace for getting me up the steep stuff we have round here
So, when i first thought of going full suss with 1x11 i purposely stopped using the 34 and used the 30 sprocket giving a 17.6" gear.
Now, i like to pedal up stuff if i can and opted for the 28 front ring as this gives me a little less than i had before @ 17.3 taking into account that i now have 650b wheels as well.
Basiclly, if you have reasonable hills and can climb then the 30t front will do, that way you will still have a nive top gear on the 10 sproket. If you have steep hills (like us) then the 28t.
BTW, even with the 28t front, i can still pedal just fine on road with the 10 sproket....
Hope my little contribution helps! 😛
Strong, but not light being over six foot!
Sounds like an excuse, plenty of light guys over 6 foot 😉
No else can tell you if it'll work, I found it fine myself, but you know how strong a climber you are. 1x11 is noticeably wider, I've never wanted more gears.
moshimonster - Member
But I'm probably close to worst case scenario for gearing i.e. 90 kg + 6" travel "enduro" bike + v. steep tech climbs + sit and spin style + average fitness. I was running a 22T granny ring on my old 26" bike. At least the new bike is about 5 lb lighter and once I get back to my fighting weight of around 84 kg I will probably be okay. May also encourage me to try climbing out of the saddle more often. I'm lazy if the gearing allows
I'm exactly the same weight, travel, and never stand and stomp up hills, like to sit and cadence up, taking the gear easier and easier as it gets steeper/fatigue sets in.
stoney - Member
I had a very low gear on the old HT, 20/34..... which worked out (according to Sheldon Browns scale) was a 15.5" gear, which was ace for getting me up the steep stuff we have round hereSo, when i first thought of going full suss with 1x11 i purposely stopped using the 34 and used the 30 sprocket giving a 17.6" gear.
Now, i like to pedal up stuff if i can and opted for the 28 front ring as this gives me a little less than i had before @ 17.3 taking into account that i now have 650b wheels as well.
Basiclly, if you have reasonable hills and can climb then the 30t front will do, that way you will still have a nive top gear on the 10 sproket. If you have steep hills (like us) then the 28t.
BTW, even with the 28t front, i can still pedal just fine on road with the 10 sproket....
Hope my little contribution helps!
This 1x11 is sounding more interesting than 1x10, thats for sure!
What sort of cost can your setup be done for?
I was tempted by the Shimano offer on CRC with 1x10 for around £120 ish.
njee20 - Member
That's because you are a lot fitter than me.
Not what I meant to imply! Was assuming that by saying you preferred a double or triple though that you felt you needed more top end?
I didn't think you were implying. I however, know that you are likely to be fitter than me! Until bust shoulder was only getting out about once a week ...
What sort of cost can your setup be done for?
I was tempted by the Shimano offer on CRC with 1x10 for around £120 ish.
An X1 group set can be had for about £500, but you need a compatible hub too.
To answer the OP's question on the hub, ck do an xd driver for their ISO hub. Ca £140 retail
I was building from scratch ( well sort of....was an ex demo full build which i then "altered") and went for the Sram.
XO1 cassette, was on the bike
XO1 rear mech, was on the bike
+ chain....
Swapped out the crank for XX1 (this is the only one with 76 bolt spacing for the 28 ring), also swapped out the shifter for twist grip, (can`t use triggers all day)
Got the crank from Aspire velotech 9in the states, and the front ring from CRC.
I tried to get it all from Aspire, but they had ran out of stock, it would have been roughly $1k, (approx £600)& you take a chance on import tax, even then it`s till miles cheaper..... 8)
I got all of mine from Starbike in Germany, who were cheapest at the time (notwithstanding US shops and gambling on import), but it's worth shopping around, prices are really volatile. I think I paid just over £700 for the whole XX1 group set.
stophe, is that the drive shell on it`s own?.
I have CK hubs and worked out that to alter my existing hub with a new 142x12 and the drivshell, it was only another £50 to buy a complete new XD hub.
To convert with both axel /driveshell it would be roughly £150 ( $250 again from Aspire Velotech!!!) 😛
Assuming the same hub shells it probably is a better idea to buy a new hub and transplant axle/freehub body, then sell the old one!
That`s what i ended up doing njee20, piece from here, piece from there...
If AV had the stock in at the time i`d have benn laughing.... 😆
34t 42/10 here
lincolnshire/peaks
have an oval absolute black ring coming
sell the king, get a DT 240 hub
For all the sram users out there with the 1x11.. has anyone experienced the weird creaking from the rear mech? Have an 1XO rear mech and is only 100miles old?!
I have`nt had it happen yet, but it is an easy fix. the clutch is the problem and just requires a little grease, there are vids to show you how to do it..... 8)
I had an issue where the mech was clunking, was like a pivot on the swingarm of my tallboy was very warn - stripped down the clutch which resolved the issue
In terms of overall value then the Sram 1x11 setup seems outrageous price wise compared to Shimano 1x10?
Is it purely because they can brag more range of gear coverage?
More to do with the cost of producing the rear cassette, and that mugs (myself included) will pay though the nose for the latest thing. If anyone is interested, I have an as new (taken off a new bike before use) x1 shifter, cassette, mech and chain you can have for £300 (what I paid on here for it, not looking to profit, just that plans have changed) mail in profile. It's not that I don't like it, I do, it's brilliant and have it on 3 bikes, I was going to build a bike from frame only but then was made an offer I couldn't refuse on a full, 1x11, bike but had already bought the above kit.
[\shameless advert]
Well XX1 is cheaper than XX, and X01 is cheaper than X0, so it's not really a premium at all, it's just top end group sets.
The cost is driven by the construction of the cassette, but a 10 or 9 speed cassette produced the same way is comparable in price - check out the XG 999 or the XG 1099.
stoney - MemberI tried to get it all from Aspire, but they had ran out of stock, it would have been roughly $1k, (approx £600)& you take a chance on import tax, even then it`s till miles cheaper.....
Aspire more expensive than the German sites, and no risk of import tax from Germany
Tom YGM 🙂 cheers Stu
For all the sram users out there with the 1x11.. has anyone experienced the weird creaking from the rear mech? Have an 1XO rear mech and is only 100miles old?!
Possibly have actually. It happened a couple of times on my first ride and I put it down to not being properly in gear when cranking. But now I'm thinking it could be this? Is yours creaking all the time? Mine isn't. It's happened twice I think, but sounded quite severe. I even stopped to see if something was broken the second time, but everything seemed fine and it didn't do it again afterward so I was none the wiser.
Possibly have actually. It happened a couple of times on my first ride and I put it down to not being properly in gear when cranking. But now I'm thinking it could be this? Is yours creaking all the time? Mine isn't. It's happened twice I think, but sounded quite severe. I even stopped to see if something was broken the second time, but everything seemed fine and it didn't do it again afterward so I was none the wiser.
Its was doing every pedal stroke.. I took it apart and gave it plenty of grease but couldn't really get into any clutch mechanism that was obvious… Its now on and off creaking so maybe needs some more tweaking!!
Its was doing every pedal stroke
Maybe it's something else with mine then. Perhaps it was just slightly out of gear when I cranked it then. Think I'll check the adj, of the mech as it occasionally seems to slightly over-shift when downshifting.
Maybe it's something else with mine then. Perhaps it was just slightly out of gear when I cranked it then. Think I'll check the adj, of the mech as it occasionally seems to slightly over-shift when downshifting.
Sram Tech gave me this reply when I asked:
[i]The clutch on the derailleur does require some breakaway force. This is normal. In some cases, with some frame designs/gear ratios/setups this breakaway will be more noticeable than others. This does not mean that there is nothing wrong with your particular derailleur.[/i]
?? Mine seems to have improved but only time and a few more rides will tell!! To top off snapped a tooth off my cassette which has gone back to Sram
only thing that puts me off 1x11 is the cost of a replacement cassette. however, given that x1 is out now, and starting to appear on more and more bikes, i imagine the price will start falling
only thing that puts me off 1x11 is the cost of a replacement cassette. however, given that x1 is out now, and starting to appear on more and more bikes, i imagine the price will start falling
I think I've said it about 50 times on various threads now, but it's not expensive because it's 11 speed, or because it's new or anything else. It's the construction. Similar 9 and 10 speed cassettes are comparable prices, and haven't changed in the 5 years they've been on sale. SRAM may reduce the cost of cassettes, but I wouldn't bank on it, until they make one in a more 'conventional' way.
What about the 40t or 42t adapters that are knocking around? They will fit to SLX or XT 10 spd cassettes. General lee is the name of one - can't remeber the other.
until they make one in a more 'conventional' way.
like the new X1
Getting there certainly. Almost down to XTR pricing!
What about the 40t or 42t adapters that are knocking around? They will fit to SLX or XT 10 spd cassettes. General lee is the name of one - can't remeber the other.
There are loads of them now. You still don't get the range of 11 speed, but yes a cheaper alternative for sure.