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I have a wheel that doesn't seem quite up the task of my massive hucks to flat (or maybe my clumsy technique). I think the problem stems from the alloy nipples. I've had to true it a couple of times recently and some of the nipples aren't happy about it and have rounded. I think I will swap them for brass. Anyone done this? I'm thinking it can be done one at a time without stressing the wheel and should keep its shape pretty well. Seems easier than slackening everything off, am I missing anything?
Yep sounds good to me.not had to do it myself as I started out with brass nipples.
Not done it myself but I would think it would probably be best doing opposite sides in pairs to keep the tension more even rather than just working around the rim sequentially. Then rotate by 90deg and do them and work around like that.
Could be completely wrong but it sort of make sense in my head.
When I have replaced alloy nipples in the past I’ve gradually slackened the whole lot off, replaced the nipples then tensioned and trued like I would building a new wheel.
If the wheel is regularly going out if true (rather than bending) then the root cause is likely uneven tension rather than alu nipples. Ali nipples will make repair harder though if they are seizing and/or rounding.
Replace the nipples and retention the wheel.
I'd think you'll be chasing tension (and true) by doing 1 at a time. Better off detensioning, swapping then detensioning from a known starting point.
I've done it both ways, tbh I'm not totally sure which option I'd choose if I was doing it today.
OTOH, if they're rounding off they're going to be a bollocks to remove.
OTOH, if they’re rounding off they’re going to be a bollocks to remove.
This. I would drip some light oil on the threaded end of each nipple, give the wheel a spin so it works its way in and then leave it overnight. Then, when you go to undo each nipple, give them a bit of a back and forth rotation to break the initial stiction / corrosion.
Also, as above, the alu nipples probably aren't the cause of your initial issues (i.e. going out of true).. but brass ones will make it easier to re-true going forward.
Thread title = 10/10
Have done both ways, found it to be equal effort either way. When you take the tape off the nipples may have a head that will allow you to loosen them (with the correct nipple key/wrench, otherwise cut and replace spoke is the easiest option). If you have or can borrow a truing stand it will make it way easier to tension, true and dish the wheel.
If it's been in and out of true a few times, then I'd just back them all off, swap, and retension. Possibly your spokes are at uneven tensions, and that's part of the problem.
I sometimes just retension wheels that have been proving problematic to true, I reckon it's easier to start from a known point than it is to chase it all through the wheel. Detensioning also lets you check the condition of the rim.
Probab;ly been mentioned but if you are replacing all the nipples, its unlikely you'll be able to save all the tension, I reckon thats too much to hope for. Still cannot hurt, and in the end you can always have it rebuilt.
If you want to take the tension out completely, then follow this route.
1/4 turn each and continue around till all hanging loose.
This tip was brought to you by Al Gow of wheelcraft here in Scotland, who makes you do it yourself to save him time. He insisted you do a 1/4 and no more.
I thought that was taking it a bit far as Al likes people around to gossip to, so I did a 1/2 turn.
I re-spoked a road wheel I had where I was snapping spokes from time to time.
If I remember correctly I loosened off all the spokes a few turns so I had a bit of play in the wheel, then replaced the spokes one by one. I guess it’s effectively the same situation as you in that respect.
If any nipples are jammed I’d try soaking them all overnight with penetrating fluid (plusgas or something like that) and hopefully they’ll come off ok then.
When it comes to retention if you’re starting with quite a baggy wheel - I’d tension each spoke so you just hide all the threads on each one. Then I’d just treat the same as when I build a wheel and go through that whole process until it’s evenly tensioned and as true as possible.
Detension the lot and start from scratch. From the sounds of it, there will be at least a few that are already rounded and won't come out easily, so leave those ones until last as they'll come out much more easily once the tension is off. Or, if it's like mine, you'll have one that completely splits apart and needs to be unscrewed with pliers once there's enough slack to push the spoke back through the rim.
When replacing a broken spoke you're supposed to de-tension the wheel so I'd slackened them all off and rebuild, you can get a spoke tension meter for about £20 on ebay.
endomick
Member
When replacing a broken spoke you’re supposed to de-tension the wheel
Yeah but does anyone actually do it? I never have, if I can get it true again, and I've never seen any ill effects
Thanks all. Wasn't quite as straight forward. I swapped the first couple and it was a bit of a fight. Decided if I was going to this much effort I'd swap the rim too. The aluminium nipples were horrible, they all came off but not nicely. This was a second hand wheel but I hope never to see any again. All done now, with brass nipples and a wider rim.
I had a pair of the Kinesis Crosslites with ally nipples. They're light, straight and nice riding when new. One of my nipples let go mid ride and it was like a gunshot going off flowed by the wheel being 1/2" out of true. Changed them all to brass after that and the wheels are still going strong.
True northwind but that's one spoke, you can get away with it but he's talking about going all the way around the wheel one at a time. I wouldn't.
Yet another pointless back n fourth, typical stw.