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Forgive me for asking but am I alone in finding enough variation in my hubs/disc position that I have to unbolt and reset the flaming brake calipers to swap wheels between bikes?
If you have had this issue has anyone shimmed their rotors to match?
Different brands of hubs? Floating rotors?
never needed to, tho I run shimano brakes and hubs.
yes and yes.
Also got 10 fleet bikes with identical hubs and brakes but I cant swap wheels without fiddling with the brake as well.
Kinda wonder if some of it is the facing on the mount as well rather than the just the hub. Tolerances.
Hope hubs on the nicer wheels and Shimano on the cheapies.
Ideally want to be able to use either set on the FS and the rigid with minimum fuss.
I don't think its a facing issue as all else being equal for a given wheel the
caliper would be in the same position.
Maybe another good pair of wheels is the answer so I feel less inclined to switch them over so I can have tubeless and light on both but was hoping to avoid the cost.
I don't have to- Pro 2s and Specialized/DT240s seem exactly the same, by pure luck.
Rotor shims are available specifically for this purpose, pretty sure Chainreaction were selling them.
Hope Pro 2s with Hope rotors on one set of wheels, cheapo no-name front hub/cheapo Shimano rear hub with Shimano XT rotors on the other, both seem to slot in and line up just fine.
Spesh hubs and sun Ringle hub are different so have to space mine
Floating rotors won't help. They're not like the ones on motorbikes, the steel part doesn't float side to side on the aluminium part.
Shimming the rotors as required should solve the problem.
As above make the rotors the same distance is the only option. I just use ProII's so all wheels swap fine
never needed to, tho I run shimano brakes and hubs.
Another here. Works just fine
I have 2 sets of disc wheels, and use the main set 95% of the time. I did not try to shim the rotors to make both sets align perfectly because as the rotor wears on the main wheel set, it won't matter. When I do swap wheels, I just push the pistons back a bit, usually by just wiggling the wheel in the dropout once the qr is undone. Pump the brake levers a few times an good to go.
Yep I do, A2Z on the race wheels, 240s on the normal ones!
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[url= http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/a1229/disc-shim-set-8-pieces.html?lg=en ]from here[/url]
2 sets of hope hubs. shimano brake & on one frame. one wheel wouldn't work as standard without shims!!
The Shimano Pitchfork Shims are very good...2 sizes clearly identified and slide on without unbolting the calliper.
Beats the Hope washers, but not as convenient as Post Mounts.
I have had to shim the rotor on occasion, and as someone above suggested, the facing of the mount does vary the required spacing for a given hub.
Since tolerances can be as little as 0.1mm (0.004") to get it free-running I guess this problem will not go away.
PaulD
Really helpful. Thank you all. Disc shims look a good bet for a possible cheap solution for now. Until i can sneak some new hoops in. 🙂