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is it possible to do this without having to recable the bike? bars on my Boardman team aren't adjustable so I want to swap on my old risers.
hoping to avoid the faff of internal cables and the like.
if I do have to recable any tips on running the cables? never worked with internal routing before
I don't see why not, more info needed (as to why not)
Depends if either bar has internal cabling.
But I would think at worst you might have to remove cable inners plus shifters and brake levers to let you feed the outer through the bars without removing the outers from the frame
If it's all taped externally (unlikely on anything from current era) then it would be easy to swap without removing any cables.
If you do need to remove the inners make sure you check how it is routed before pulling them through. If there are no internal guides then attach thread or similar so that you can pull them back through.
Also don't bet on being able to reuse the inners. Once they start to fray they can be impossible to rethread.
it's a Boardman team with sram gearing I believe. will be poverty spec stuff. the cables exit the current flat bars from under the tape. the ones I'm planning on using can be routed internally so they exit at the end. I'd say there should be plenty of length for cable and inner it is whether I can disconnect at the shifter end (have never played around with tt shifters)
bikes only done 300 or so miles so everything is pretty much new
TT - time trial bike? I'm lost
Just swapped bars on my P3, total recable job for me as base bar and extensions were internal. Lots of fun with fishing line etc! Got the tricky gear cables routed and thought the end was in sight only to find the old vision brake levers didn’t fit on the new 3T bars... good luck!
I was hoping for a 30min job 🙁
plan to keep the original base bar so hopefully it will just be the gears.
yes tt = time trial.
I know it was cheap but you really should be able to adjust the bars. only option with current setup is to chop it shorter or change stem
Tips = Make sure you have a complete spare set of inners and outers.
Make sure you've got an uninterrupted evening. And if there is anything funky (RTC shifters etc) a complete set of instructions.
ok I've bought fresh gear cable and some thin fishing wire just in case
how do you attach the fishing wire to the cable to feed it through? wouldn' a knot or tape get stuck?
Thin diameter fishing line (not wire) and a nice tight small knot worked a treat.
If the cables for gears come out of the ends of the extensions, you may be able to slip them from the clamps and then into new clamps. Maybe. Otherwise I have found the best solution is eTap. Sorry
I have a HED base bar with brakes and internal brakes woe cables out the back of the bars. I added 3T clip on extensions. Makes position changes easy. Height, width and rotation. Other bars that integrate struggle with width and rotation needed by changes in arm cups and angled wedges for spacers. I’d go with the cheap clip on until position is sorted. Then replicate this with bling if needed
i think you will have to recable if I’m honest. You won’t get the shifter body through the clamps.
1k group set on a £720 bike 😉
thanks for all the tips.
I was hoping I could remove the riser bars / stem to reduce cable tension and then pop the cables out of the shifters, but it looks like that' not really doable. I plan to use my old clipons profile t1s till I work out posiion. currently I'm constantly sliding forward and heavy on the quads. the flat bars of the Boardman don't give me much to brace against the profiles have a decent rise on them so I can get more into a semi mantis posiotion
My TT bike was 400 off ebay, but eTap is just the nicest kit. You don't think about shifting.
If you are sliding forwards, move the saddle forwards. You might want a reverse seatpost for better position. My frame was 73 degree parallel, so first I went with a reversed Thomson lay back, and then with a Profile FFD seatpost, because it looks nicer! I'm definitely not bracing myself.
Then you may want a longer stem, and possibly move the pads further forward.
When I tested, I found flat arms were as aero as raised arms, and wider elbows raised was LESS aero than flat. Position feels really comfortable now, and steel frame soaks up the bumps.
Don't go too narrow and don't go too raised.
Current set up is here https://www.strava.com/activities/1568590921
I've moved the seat forward to see if that sorts it. much quicker than recalling!