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Due to a change in wheel size I am about to buy a new 120mm fork. Some offer stanchion mounted lockouts, some do not, some can be used with a remote lockout, some cannot.
I never took the time to set up my previous forks properly, and as a result I didn't like them at all, possibly also due to coming from a rigid background. However, having done some research it appears I will want to set up the new forks with high pressure, high compression and high rebound damping to minimise dive, which to be quite frank scares the hell out of me. Bearing these proposed settings in mind is it worth making sure I have a full lockout? And for those with remote lockouts, do you actually use them.... or are they a needless faff just like travel adjust turned out to be.
Very rarely bother with the lock out on my forks. On the odd occasion that I use it I then forget to deactivate it for the descents 🙄
I use top of fork leg type lockout. But not a handlebar mounted.
Do i use it... Well, only when doing a road ride, not when out on trails, i'd not use it for a generic fireroad climb anyway.
What Phil_H says.
No, I usually either take the lever off or make sure it can't lock out if the forks have one.
I personally wouldn't bother with lockout on 120 travel, even on the road, so I definitely wouldn't bother with a remote cluttering up the bars.
It's not like it's that much bother to reach down and lock it out on the top of the leg, unless you are that inept that you will stick your hand between the fork and the tyre.
no, no need.
RockShox handle bar mounted lock out: piece of crap.
Works maybe in the CLEAN ROOM. But don't get water, dust, or mud close to this piece of evil engineering!
On steap or long climbs I sometimes use it but I don't think I have ever remembered to unlock it again for the subsequent downhill. A remote lockout might help in these situations as it is definitely impossible to release the lock on the fork stanchion while travelling rapidly down highly (ha!) technical trails. Probably wouldn't bother about it really.
I don't lock my forks out at all.
I use mine but it has floodgate that adjust so some travel is available not handlebar though
DOnt think I would miss it that much if it was not there
I [s]always[/s] usually check its off before descents
Phil_H summed that up nicely.
It's normally in the middle of the descent that I realise it's still locked then it ruins the rest of it as I automatically back off for fear of blowing something.
So I don't bother using it any more.
What's your bike OP?
I've got remote lock out on my xc hardtail, with 100mm travel. Sometimes, I like to stand up and pedal when going up hill and if the conditions or surface suits, then I'll lock the forks to minimise wasted energy of the front of everything bouncing. Often, if not always on tarmac, sometimes on softer trails.
I don't have remote lock out for the forks on my 120mm full sus, mainly because I rarely stand up on the pedals when going up hill. Negates the point of riding a full sus to me.
As for how to set your suspension up, well IME everyone likes their damping to behave in their own way. For sure, you gotta start somewhere, so going high lots on everything will provide certain characteristics that you get on with, but don't be afraid to fiddle, so to speak. Riding the same trail over and over again is fun to begin with, but then each trail is different. Point being, try adjusting the rebound, the compression, the pressure and find out how that adjustment has changed the feel of control. Do only make one adjustment at a time though, otherwise you won't know what has achieved what and your understanding as to how your forks can provide you with more confidence, will remain as it is now.
Yes, all the time. I have DT Swiss ODL fork and shock, linked to their remote. Open on descents, middle on normal riding, lockout on road.
I have my suspension setup so descending at high speed feels great, then the middle position firms it up nicely for single track or fire road.
I use one. Slightly unusual in that I have a 150mm Revelation on my Bfe, with dual position and lockout. My local ride has road riding up a steep hill at the start, so I tend to lock out the fork for a bit at the start.
Clutters up the bar and is not that reliable though.
Use it on every fire road climb or tarmac section of a ride. Bike more responsive as pedal inputs equal forward motion rather than fork bob. Simple concept that works.
I lock my suspension out for transiting along fire roads etc. Don't need a remote on the handlebars though; I'm lucky enough to have arms that'll reach the top of the forks and rear shock.
Rarely lockout at all anymore, I don't think modern bikes even need it.
I'd never use a bar remote for suspension though. Complete waste of space and weight in my mind.