[Closed] Sunrace 11-46 cassette-anyone tried one?

My Orbea Oiz came with one, it's great so far. Smooth and no issues

Work and seem to wear just as well as Shimano but have more even jumps at the bigger sprocket end of the casette than Shimano.

Aye, my Orbea Loki came fitted with one. Apart from the extended range you wouldn't know it was there.

Cheers guys. Might as well give it a go then.

Fitted one a few months ago and can't fault it .

What mechs are you all using?

but have more even jumps at the bigger sprocket end of the casette than Shimano.

Is this really an issue for anyone?

At the other end when you are pinning it- you want it smooth, but on a climb that needs a 46t sprocket?

I've got the 11-50 11 speed with medium cage 11sp XT mech on my main bike, and a 10sp 11-46 with medium SLX 10sp mech on the HT.

Both work superbly although the 10sp setup needs to b tension screw wound right in. Was expecting it not to clear tbh, but so far so good.

My Marin came with one on. It works, and works smoothly so far.

(SLX 11sp here)

Thanks Twonks - which model SLX mech are you using for the 10 speed?

Been using one for about 4 months now. Works well & smoothly too

Murray - Member

Thanks Twonks - which model SLX mech are you using for the 10 speed?

I'll have to look but it is a 10 speed clutch mech with medium cage (not sure how many versions there are of that)

Edit. It's an M675 Shadow+

i got an 11/42 Sunrace for my Norco and had to fit a goatlink as my mid cage mech touched the 42 cog, goatlink fixed that one 🙂

I haven't done that many miles on mine yet, but works fine

kimbers - Member
but have more even jumps at the bigger sprocket end of the casette than Shimano.
Is this really an issue for anyone?

At the other end when you are pinning it- you want it smooth, but on a climb that needs a 46t sprocket?

Well got one ordered so will be going from xt to sunrace and will let you know how it goes.
A good saving on Xt and like the idea of more spread ratios.

I'm using a SLX M675 mech with a OneUp rad cage. Seems to be working well. Of course I'm also using a SLX 11sp shifter.

I decided to get an 11 speed mech as the xt 10 speed mech with a rad cage was struggling a bit and didn't want to mess about with the b tension screw too much. Perfect shifting now.

First ride and seems as good as xt with less jump in range st top end

Is it the Sunrace 11-46 MX8 model cassette?
Are you running them with M8000 GS Medium Cage mechs?

And do they back-pedal in 1st without dropping the chain? Say with a non-boost 49mm chain line?

I might get the 40T or 42T MX8 as I'm running 11-40T Shimano M8000 at the moment (I like the closer gearing). I ran the 11-42T M8000 previously and it was much worse for dropping the chain than the 40T Shimano is.

I did fit the 42T cassette recently to check if it was still dropping the chain when the 40T didn't on the same bike and it dropped it 100% of the time but the 40T isn't totally immune to it when I most need it not to drop in a boggy patch. I wasn't sure I could actually notice the 2T extra so I may stick with 40T max.

Where are you getting the Sunrace Cassettes from cheaper than Shimano? On CRC the price is the same or higher than Shimano.

Hang on... they're doing an 11-50 12-speed Shimano freehub cassette too?

So buy a GX Eagle mech + GX Eagle chain + GX Eagle shifter + Sunrace 12 speed and no change of wheel / freehub needed?

Looks to have the narrow wide on the two sprockets as well.

Weight seems bob on GX Eagle cassette too. What's the price?

Wow, impressed.

I'm thoroughly hacked off with my M8000 drive train. Spend £60 on a Sunrace 11 speed cassette and hope it works better than Shimano or put the money towards a switch to 12 speed?

[url= http://www.sunrace.com/en/products/detail/csmz90 ]Sunrace site linky[/url]

Looks interesting, but the comments on the eagle thread suggest the rear mech is the weak point.

What makes you think there's n/w on the cassette? I just can't see how that could ever work.

I have not tried the 46t Sunrace but I've had the 42t for 18months and I'd I'll be buying another when it eventually dies. Very impressed with it's weight / durability.

Anyone running the 10spd version.

@tomd any problems back-pedalling in the 42T? What's your crank / chain ring / chain line setup?

@onzadog I read that the Eagle cassette used a sort of n/w on the largest two cogs which I thought would be how they stop it coming off when back-pedalling.

The Sunrace Shimano FH 12 speed is 580g odd I think but still that'll be lighter than Shimano can manage I'm sure. That's a fair chunk to add to the rear suspension still. I felt my 450g Shimano 11-42 (I believe newer ones have shed 20g)? My 11-40T is <410g. Especially when 10s XT 11-36 was 335g. I only notice it slinging the bike over a fence or stile rather than riding but still another 100g+ is bonkers.

The Sunrace 11-40T MX8 is 389g. I'd give anything for reliability of back-pedal though on 11 speed.

Heard about the rear mech issues with 12 speed. That's a bit of a shocker really.

I’m not quite sure what I’ve done to manage this, but my GX 11 spd setup on my Solaris backpedals without skipping around or downshifting. I’ve had other bikes do it. I’ll be interested to see if my luck holds next chain...

@gelert

No it's fine. When I changed it over I tried it with the old long cage 10sp mech and it was rough back pedalling in the 42T even with max b tension. I switched the mech for a Shimano 11sp and it was much better and has proven to be very durable.

@tomd thanks. That's a solid recommendation.

@vincienup it's definitely not 100% solid on SRAM 11 speed either. I've tried many bikes in shops with both Shimano and SRAM. On the whole the SRAM 11 ones (and all 12 ones so far) have back-pedalled very well but I was able to find the odd SRAM 11 that would drop it's chain from the 42T down the block. However with Shimano I've found only a handful (one was a 46T Yeti) that work in shops. Pretty much universally all Shimano 11 speeds drop their chain on back-pedal.

For me my 11-40T M8000 is the best I've had and it's sometimes able to drop a chain then back-pedal fine, ride about, back pedal drop, ride about try again and stay on. It's about 50/50. Verses 100% drop on the 42T version. I'm only looking for <1 revolution to re-set sometimes but I don't always get a quarter turn back out of it and this is with a chain line correcting 6mm offset DM Cinch ring from OneUp and I shifted a 1mm BB spacer over to the wrong side to bring it in less than 49mm even.

First world problems and all.

On my Marin, SLX 11sp.

Works just as well as a Shimano as far as I can tell.

I'm generally so used to the issue I change down to 2nd before I come to a stop. It's only when I get stuck on a very technical section, hit a rock with my pedal or I spin the rear on something that I'll be stopped in 1st.

Then reset and... dropped chain. In extreme situations that means you have to get off the bike because you can't push on the cranks to try to go again. It happens a lot more in the winter.

Can you send a cassette back for a refund if you fit it and it doesn't back-pedal?

I'd always fit a new chain with a new cassette.

Sorry for thread hijacking BTW.

Where is the best place to buy a Sunrace cassette ATM?

Anyone running SRAM X7 with one (10 speed)? Would like to go a bit lower, probably 42 is enough but I'd take a 46 if it works...

the SRAM 11 ones have back-pedalled very well ....However with Shimano I've found only a handful (.... Pretty much universally all Shimano 11 speeds drop their chain on back-pedal.

My SRAM 11 setup X1 is fine. My Shimano is an issue - I'm using Sunrace 46 and an Absolute Black ring that's spaced an extra 2mm over with chainring washers (so 3mm off the Shimano line). I now get most of a rotatation back but it's still not ideal.

On Shimano if you watch the back-pedal drop happening closely it's at the shift ramps that the chain does a little wiggle and drops or doesn't - next tooth picks it up or pushes it away. I think it's a design flaw. It's there on the XT 10 speed cassette too as a bike with awful chain line of 51mm+ will drop the chain in 1st too. But usually a 10s bike will have a better chain line than that and you'll never have the issue.

On the SRAM bikes I've had a play with the chain really tries to stay on during back-pedal. I think you'd have to have a very bad chain line to get SRAM 11 to behave badly.

I will buy a Sunrace Cassette to try if everyone is saying they haven't dropped chains in 1st.

Sunrace 11-50 replaced a XT 11-46. It's been absolutely spot on!
That's with about 6 months riding.

Sunrace 11-50 replaced a XT 11-46. It's been absolutely spot on!
That's with about 6 months riding.

Where did you get one from?

Just realised you got the 11 speed 11-50 while I am looking into the 12 speed version that I'm struggling to find in stock in the UK.

Where are you getting them from?

CRC was out of stock yesterday but back in stock today with the MX8 11s ones. £72 for the 11-42. That's not cheaper than Shimano, although if it actually works it's worth it.

Just tried out an 11 46 Sunrace from Bike discount.de. Was £50 in silver.
It weighs 50g more than the xtm8000 11 42 on my spare wheels. Going to replace the chain so I can run a 36 tooth ring with it.

Had no issues with the mx8 11 42 on my other wheels.

@jamesoz can you confirm the tooth count on the SunRace 11-46 MX8 in Silver from Bike-Discount?

They're saying: 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32-36-40-46

But SunRace tech spec PDF has it at 36-42-46.

Cheers

I was quite keen when I saw the 42-46 jump because the 46 would become a true bail out gear for me. I could keep everything else the same. 42 is plenty for most things for me but sometimes I really would just love a bail out gear.

Looked at CRC questions section and they'd confirmed it's 36-40-46 to someone else. Oh well. Can't have everything.

Keep my chainring the same, extra link in my chain and the 46 is a true bailout for the winter drudge. I should also need to back-pedal less in it (if it does drop - better not!) because the 40T 2nd gear will be mostly fine for me.

Might press some buttons in a bit then 🙂

Is anyone running a 10-46 cassette with 10spd SRAM GX ? Officially the GX rear mech is rated to 36t...

I'm currently running it with a OneUp 42t conversion and it's fine.
I'm looking for a lower ratio and it'll be a whole lot cheaper than going 11 or 12 speed if it works...

I've ordered the SunRace MX8 11-46 from CRC.

Realised the beauty of it is that 11-40 is there in 10 gears and the 46 is a true bail out which is what I want/need for winter and I can go ahead and fit some beefy tyres and trudge away.

I hope it back-pedals in 1st on the <49mm chain line. Got a new chain ready. Send it back if it doesn't? Or accept that 40T is gunna be absolutely fine for me and the 46T is literally only there as a bail out?

Sorry just saw this, it is 40 46. Mine won’t back pedal in 1st but as you say it’s a bail out gear I use the standard chain line as I like the chain as far away from the tyre as practicable .
I get the feeling the tooth profile is a direct shimano copy so has the same issue. Doesn’t SRAM use narrow wide type thing?

@jamesoz thanks for the update. I ordered it last Thursday and even paid for "premium service" from CRC but it's only out for delivery today (6 days later). Even their free service used to be quicker than this!

Sorry to hear it doesn't back-pedal in 1st but I'm not surprised. I'll have to see how I get on. I won't be needing the 46T for very many climbs at all and I don't intend using it except to drag me up climbs I'd normally avoid or for getting home on winter rides. If it doesn't work out, it's only £50. I can just sit in the 40T and because it's steel it won't wear out so quickly.

SunRace have set 2nd at 40T which I think is more sensible than Shimano which is 37T with a jump to 46T.

SRAM do use a narrow wide profile on the Eagle on 1st and 2nd, I believe. It certainly looks different on those two cogs.

The SunRace 11-46 11 speed just arrived. It's 482g. A tad over the 465g quoted. Not too worried about that for winter. I'll go back to 11-40 and pick up a SunRace again if this one works well.

It's extremely nice looking and the spread of gears looks very equal across the range.

Looking forward to trying it at the weekend. Hopefully I'll get some time one evening to set it up with a new chain.

Just for the record, I have two, one on a fuse and the other one a P29er. Neither drop the chain when back pedaling in any gear.

Slightly off topic, but I've just replaced my 11-42t one up'd 10s that ran the RadR cage and Pilo link with the MS3 10-46t 10s with the same gear set up and changes are spot on and back pedals perfect.

I have an 11-46 11 speed and it back-pedals in 1st. Chainline is 47-48 mm in theory (30t One-up oval ring, which has a built in spacerage, attached to an old-school 4 arm spider that would give a 49-50 mm chainline with no spacer). Chainstay at the longer end of things (full sus 29er).

@greyspoke my chain line should be 48-49mm too - on a 26er with 436mm chain stay [longer is better for this] (other bike 425mm always comes out worse for back-pedal).

Got a OneUp oval 30T DM Cinch with a proper 6mm offset (I say proper because Absolute Black claim similar but it's 3mm on theirs). Cinch cranks are set at 51mm default (with 3mm offset DM rings) according to RaceFace documentation with spacers set as they say and their rings. I've actually found a nice half spacer and used that so in theory my chain line should be spot on to work.

I shall see by the weekend. Not sure when I can get 10 mins in the garage though.

I really hope it works. Got a new SRAM NX chain to go with it. Shimano M8000 shifter / mech.

It shouldn't be rocket science. £150 into 3x Shimano cassettes and none have worked 100% so far (latest 11-40 is 75% ok) - admittedly my chain line was cack when I first went 11s thanks to RaceFace and AbsoluteBlack but I've fixed that over time. £50 to the SunRace to see if that works.

If it doesn't that whole drive train is going on the other bike and my main bike will be upgraded to SRAM xD whatever it all costs, I don't care anymore. My leisure time is worth more than faffing about with back-pedalling issues.

~49mm chainline (Superstar boost chainring, boost rear end) with short 415mm chainstays works fine on my Chameleon.

Anyone running the 10spd version.

Mine is the 10 speed, works great.

@frogstomp on a boost bike that's an extremely narrow chain line. Boost default is 53mm on RaceFace.

Anyway... just installed the 11-46 SunRace on my Alpine. Back-pedal issue... what back-pedal issue? Thank you SunRace! Hopefully after a few rides it'll be the same... not celebrating just yet.

I'm so annoyed with Shimano 11s cassettes though. What a waste of time it's been. Jan/Feb 2016 until now.

This SunRace - it's not dropped off the 46T once during setup or spinning around the close. On a new chain too.

I might need to replace my outer cable. It's 3 years old and a tad slow on the up shift.

Every gear is indexed fine and no back-pedal issue on the stand or more importantly when sat on the bike. I'm amazed. Little bit of B tension adjustment to clear the 46 and I took 2 whole links off the 114 link NX chain. I tried one and it was fine but there was plenty of cage movement left in 1st so I took another off so it wouldn't bounce around in 11th as much. Very tidy job.

I'll give it a ride then I'll probably buying another SunRace for the other bike.

Wow! Been for a ride with Brian on the 11-46 SunRace this morning. Totally blown away by how it didn't miss a beat. It sifts way smoother than any Shimano cassette I've ever used too. Under power, no problem. Smooth as silk.

Spun at 90RPM straight up one of the steepest road climbs that I always avoid in winter. No problem and loads of energy to spare at the top, I didn't even stop to catch any breath.

Then up a really muddy climb that's through a stream. It goes from bone dry in summer to a sloppy mess with slippy rocks, off camper slabs and boggy bits with grassy and pointy rocks to get up and over and then there's a steep grassy bit to end right into the wind. Totally cleaned it. So much more control with the power delivery on the 46T than I had before. Rather than over powering it just made it easy to find grip and keep balance.

Covered it all in mud on the way down and it was very grindy afterwards but still didn't de-rail in 1st. Could not make it come off. Totally as it should be. Haven't experienced that since I've owned this bike really. Even the original 1x10 setup used to have it's moments.

I think a new cable outer will totally sort it.

Hope it doesn't wear and then drop but even if it does none of the others started off working from day 1 like this so I'm really really amazed. Well done SunRace.

Bit of a bump on this.

Anyone used this cassette with a medium cage SLX mech?

Currently have the 42t on my Mega with no probs, but wondered if the 46t might be a bit too much?

Slx m7000. Works for me. Earlier slx mechs might struggle a bit.

Was running a 10 speed 11-40 with a non clutch mid cage SLX with no problems.  Stuck a 11-46 on today and it would not work even with the longer B screw.  Hope to get it sorted with a Goatlink and if not a M7000 clutch mech is the next option.

It's the M670 SLX Shadow Plus, still using normal B tension screw with sunrace 11-42t.

I would be surprised if that would work well. I managed 11-42 with the equivalent XT mech - IIRC I had the b-screw out as far as it would go to get decent shifting.

Worth a go though.

Just thought I would add my 2 peneth, I've had sunrace with 1x10, 34-11/46. The cassettes have served me well but I am finding at the moment 3rd gear is not properly engaging and won't adjust out without affecting the other gears. LBS says could be poor tolerances so I've looked at Shimano and you can buy them for 30 quid ( ebay) and the step between 1st to second is 1 tooth less than the £50 Sunrace. Its a no brainer really, got to give it a try 👍.

Not impressed with the life of these Sunrace.

On my bike after a single chain i'd ripped off a couple of the teeth on the 46 and with a new chain, the next sprocket down was slipping.

Katie's has fared a little better but again is looking very worn after a single chain.