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So, I've finally managed to remove the seatpost that I had stuck in a steel frame. It's always been a bit sticky and even though it's been removed, cleaned and regreased a few times it's never been great and always been a bit sticky. This time removing it has damaged it a bit too much so it's getting replaced but is there anything preparation I can do on the frame side of things to make the new seatpost less likely to bind in the future or are there specific products that make posts less likely to bind?
You could try carbon paste (l assume it's not a carbon post). Then you  won't need to tighten it so much to stop it slipping.
You could try carbon paste
That's the last thing tried (for just that reason). I didn't seem to make any difference but it could be that at that point the frame/seatpost interface was such a mess that nothing would work. I cleaned the seatube using a rag and various solvents but i don't know how good a job I managed so it might be that if it was all perfectly clean it would have worked
Carbon assembly paste. It's not just for carbon. Actually, had an alloy post which the manufacturer specified the paste should be used, regardless of the frame material.
If it's a bonding effect, galvanic corrosion occurs in varying ways with different materials depending how dissimilar they are. Needs water though. Rain or washing the bike.
Steel post in a steel frame might have less issues, but heavy and not sure you can get them beyond cheapest of so called bikes (and they rust).
Regardless of the bonding, carbon paste reduces the clamping force require anyway.
You say it is always a bit sticky. How long is this between removals? I tend to undo the seat clamp and twist the seat post in each bike every couple of months to make sure none are bonding. If one is a bit stiff, then I take it out, clean the seat tube and seat post, re-grease and put back in.
How long is this between removals?
Probably every 6 months but this is the only bike that has issues (well, apart from the one where it is completely stuck of course 🙂 but that bike is 30 yrs old now). This is also the only steel bike so I'm wondering if I need to do something special in the inside of the frame to help things. The Alu and carbon frames are all ok without anything special
You're blaming the seatpost, but have you checked your frame?
Eg, dent, ovality of seat tube (crushed by clamp) etc.
Assuming your new post is of decent quality, you'll know when you put it in. If it doesn't go in easy, the problem may be the frame.
Being steel, if it is put away damp either from riding or cleaning, and/or stored in a cold damp place then this won't help. I have never had an issue with steel as long as it is well greased. Maybe just get into the habit of checking a bit sooner.
Alternatively, the seatpost might have just been a tight fit and the replacement post might be a little bit smaller, so less of an issue.
You’re blaming the seatpost, but have you checked your frame?
Actually the question was really if there is anything to look at on the frame so your idea is a good one. There are no dents but I'll check the outside with calipers to see if anything is crushed. I know that paint will throw it out a bit but I should at least be able to be sure it is round. Good idea - thanks
Get a half round file down the seat tube. Just go steady and stop and check your post for fit. Done this on a few frames over the years.
Alternatively, the seatpost might have just been a tight fit and the replacement post might be a little bit smaller
Good point as well. I was about to chuck the old one but might keep it until the new one arrives to see if there is any difference (well, as far as my calipers can measure anyway)
Get a half round file down the seat tube.
Was thinking of a wooden dowel and sandpaper. Would the file be a better idea or is paper likely to be good enough? I was wondering if something had got a bit rusty in the inside somewhere and needed treating
I've just used a file and worked my way gently round. You'll soon feel if there's a high spot causing your problems.
I wouldn't bother with the paper. Sods law say it'll drop down and be a ball ache to get out!
Just to be sure can you measure your seat post diameter accurately to discount that? If it's fine crack on with the file.
I'd be cleaning up the seat tube with one of these on the end of a drill to start with.
Just to be sure can you measure your seat post diameter accurately to discount that?
Between 27.15 and 27.2 all the way down (assuming of course that the calipers are accurate). The seat tube does't appear to have been squished anywhere either. Might have to be a file and carbon paste (again) then
I can also use a shorter seatpost and still keep 100mm insertion so might as well go for that as well
edit: I like singlespeedstu's toy. Looks like a very nice option
Cheap, easy to use and gives a more even finish than a file.
Just don't get carried away with it.
I ream metal frames after removing a seized seatpost using a dedicated reamer for each size, you could see if your LBS has one?
DIY at home I would probably check for any major burrs and knock them off then run a hone up and down checking fitment with a good post regularly.
Finish prep can vary a lot on brand new frames.
People laugh at me but an ounce of prevention better than a truckload of repair.... after cleaning or a wet ride, take the seatpost out until it's dry. If you don't have wet rides or cleaning - I still reckon 6 months is way too long, and for the effort involved vs the hassles of removing and repairing, I'd regrease it every few weeks, and even be tempted to loosen the clamp, give it a quick sideways twist and retighten just to break any binding that might be starting more frequently than that.
But then, I loosen my cleat bolts after every ride too. 30s job, even if you have to pick muck out of the sockets.
Thanks @bigyan. Are you a fan of carbon paste (friction paste) as well?
Thanks @bigyan. Are you a fan of carbon paste (friction paste) as well?
Only when needed, eg carbon components and dropper posts, it does not seem to be a particularly good corrosion inhibitor.
If its an alloy or steel post in a steel frame I would not use carbon paste, either a decent thick waterproof grease or an anti seize compound.
Most people who I have removed seized seatposts for now turn the seatpost regularly and remove, clean and grease semi regularly, free insurance after the hassle of a seized one.
As others have said, a good greasing and regular movement of the seat post, you don't need to removed it, just turn it in the frame through 360 deg a couple of times. Twice a month would be fine. That way you should catch it before its too late!
it does not seem to be a particularly good corrosion inhibitor.
Thats what I was wondering. It's job it to create friction which isn't really my problem. The binding seems to be much further down the tube rather than at the clamp so having to overtighten isn't my issue
Think I'll put a quick release on just to make it easier to keep on top of it
The dowel wood with a cut along it, with glass/sand paper works a treat and is really cheap to do.
Sandpaper or wire wool.
Odd one, which bike is this dude? Is it a possibility water si dribbling up (down) the seat tube from the BB when it's hanging?
Odd one, which bike is this dude?
It's the Stoater and good point on the water. I do hang it vertically and it looks like the binding is at the bottom of the seatpost from how the seatpost looks when removed
The dowel wood with a cut along it with glass/sand paper
nice idea - likes