Stick-on cable guid...
 

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[Closed] Stick-on cable guides for dropper post?

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I want to fit an external-cable dropper to a frame without suitable guides.

I've found the M-Part stick-on guides on the web, would these be the best option or is there anything else out there?


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 9:50 am
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If you've got screw clamps/bottle bosses already how about something like this?

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 9:55 am
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I've used the M-Part ones in the past for droppers, they work fine so long as your frame is proper clean and grease free and the sticky tape is warmish before application


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 9:58 am
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I've found the M-Part stick-on guides on the web, would these be the best option or is there anything else out there?

They work fine in conjunction with a seat clamp with a rotating guide (like the hope ones). Without one of those the cable tends to hook up on the last guide and eventually tears it off.


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 10:01 am
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Can you cable tie it to any existing hoses instead?


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 10:03 am
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5thElefant - Member
I've found the M-Part stick-on guides on the web, would these be the best option or is there anything else out there?

They work fine in conjunction with a seat clamp with a rotating guide (like the hope ones). Without one of those the cable tends to hook up on the last guide and eventually tears it off.

I used some Velcro sticky pads to solve this, worked grand, easily reattached to the frame if it did come off and very quick to remove for maintenance etc


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 10:10 am
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I used the MPart ones and they just pull off at the first point. I also found cable ties look a bit neater but will be getting some of those clips for my bottle boss mounts to tidy it up.


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 10:14 am
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a seat clamp with a rotating guide (like the hope ones)

Hmm.. does the cable slide through that guide or does it hold it tight?


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 10:18 am
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Yeah, it slides through it as you drop the post with the excess appearing as a loop by the bars.

Without it (which is how I ran for years) the loop appears at the back, stressing the rear guide and buzzing the rear wheel as suspension compresses.

EDIT:
Not the best photo, but if you click through and zoom in you'll see how there is no loop where the seat clamp is:
[url= https://c8.staticflickr.com/2/1479/24895648463_5b41bcace3_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c8.staticflickr.com/2/1479/24895648463_5b41bcace3_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 10:22 am
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Hmm.. might get one of those.


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 10:27 am
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Bolt on ones might be worth a try yeah, got bottle mounts and also rear pannier bolts which might be close enough to be useful.

Could use the pannier one to loop a ziptie through, which might allow that portion of the cable better movement.

Thanks for your ideas.

🙂


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 12:12 pm
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I used a blob of sugru round the cable with a magnet in it. Works well on my steel bike, not so well on my new ally frame.


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 12:25 pm
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The Mpart ones worked ok for a while - but even on a prepped and squeaky clean frame, they didn't last more than about 9 months before needing replacement.


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 12:27 pm
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Sugru works a treat for these, stays put through the elements


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 12:47 pm
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I've got some Sugru. Do you mean add it to a bolt or stick on guide?


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 12:56 pm
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M part ones and a Hope dropper guide seat clamp on my Scout. I know it has internal routing but I couldn't justify a new Reverb just yet.
They stuck really well to the Biketart frame tape.

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 1:11 pm
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^^ i would use it to stick on the guide. It would have some flexibility as the guide may strain a little when the hose moves.


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 1:12 pm
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I moulded a blob of sugru around the cable, with a small neothingy magnet in it and pressed onto the frame with clingfilm on it.
When it cured I removed the clingfilm, now the magnet holds it well to the frame, but if it gets caught or needs taking off you just pull, then just put back and its on again.
It was a rough job and I did need to put the magnet back in with superglue once but it works really well. You do need a steel frame tho.
With an ally frame I think you would just have to stick direct to the frame (no clingfilm) so its not easily removeable but does come off fairly clean in the end.


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 1:17 pm
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Yeah, it slides through it as you drop the post with the excess appearing as a loop by the bars.

Without it (which is how I ran for years) the loop appears at the back, stressing the rear guide and buzzing the rear wheel as suspension compresses.


Re the hope seat clamp and the cable excess coming out at the bars - I guess the cable must be free to move through the additional mounts further up the frame?
All the reviews say that a reverb cable is really tight fit going through the ball on the clamp. Wouldnt this limit the excess cable to coming out above the clamp?


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 1:21 pm
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I guess the cable must be free to move through the additional mounts further up the frame?

Yes, you can't clamp the cable anywhere.

All the reviews say that a reverb cable is really tight fit going through the ball on the clamp. Wouldnt this limit the excess cable to coming out above the clamp?

That I don't know. Both of my droppers are Joplins, but if the cable is too tight I guess it won't slide.


 
Posted : 18/08/2016 1:26 pm

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