[Closed] steerer shortening - pipe cutter ?

Hacksaw works for me. An old stem will do as a guide.

Pipe cutter works well for me. You have to file the cut ends a bit to make sure there's no lip.

hacksaw does a better job imho assuming your not a ham fisted oaf who cant cut straight

The pipe cutter leaves a sharp crimped edge as it cuts which i dislike.

and doing it right means a good bit of work involved with the file tidying up after to remove the sharps.

Hacksaw with a square cut just needs the edge dressing lightly with a half round to put a nice guiding chamfer inside and out.

Minor details but details non the less.

Yes and no.

Works ok on steel but the blade doesn't actually cut, it deforms it, so with thicker alu you end up with a lip you have to then file off.

Nowadays I use the pipe cutter to mark it, then follow round with a hacksaw blade on the surface - i.e. deepening the mark into a groove all the way round, not simply sawing through it from one side. You can either start sawing when the groove is deep enough, or just keep going until the bit falls off, which is what I did with my carbon fork.

Despite Trail Rat's mega skillz willy waving, I wouldn't risk sawing straight through. Very easy to bugger up an expensive component for the sake of 5 mins effort.

It does cut it but will flare the end of the tube over somewhat. Also if it's a plumbers pipecutter the cutting wheel might not last too long(I use one for cutting stainless). What you can do is run your pipecutter round a few times and then cut with a hacksaw. The cutter will provide a very good cutting guide.

Carbon steerer?

alloy steerer - liking the idea of pipecutter to get groove and then hacksaw. Will pop in a vice after measuring 3 or 4 times 🙂

what you can get with a pipe cutter is a flairing of the end of the tube. Making it tight to get a stem on.

I normally tape all the way round the tube. Then use a hack saw, but only cut the edge of the steerer nearest you. Cut a bit then rotate.
Don't try and cut the two sides of the steerer at the same time.

When measuring the length, either use a previous fork or make damn sure that the headset is fully tight and all the bits are on before you mark....

^^^^ yes, will be using old fork as a guide this time, limiting risk of arsing it up ... 🙂

"Despite Trail Rat's mega skillz willy waving, I wouldn't risk sawing straight through. Very easy to bugger up an expensive component for the sake of 5 mins effort."

assuming you have measured and marked - then measured to confirm - then measured a third time . bugger it up how exactly ? if its too short its too short regardless of what its cut with its hard to see how else you can bugger up the component without beating it to death with the hacksaw instead of cutting it .

It doesn't even have to be millimetre precision. The cut edge of the steerer is only used for preloading the headset bearings and unless you are a complete oaf, you should be able to achieve a good result with one cut.

Despite Trail Rat's mega skillz willy waving,

Don't try and cut the two sides of the steerer at the same time.

It's not "mega skillz" to cut straight with a saw, but, it's a skill/ability not everyone has- it's really just about hand and eye accuracy but you can't take it for granted that everyone can do it tbh.

Pipecutter will put a lovely score on it to follow with a saw/chase down with a file but a wrap of electric or masking tape is even better IMO, more visible.

I just use a hacksaw.

easy to do. would have to have mental issues to mess up such a simple task.

WTF being able to use a hacksaw is willy-waving now?

I use two old stems, which means I can keep the hacksaw perfectly straight.

It's not "mega skillz" to cut straight with a saw, but, it's a skill/ability not everyone has- it's really just about hand and eye accuracy but you can't take it for granted that everyone can do it tbh.

Puts hand up as unable to cut in a straight line with a hacksaw only. Hand-eye co-ordination a bit suspect. I like the idea of marking with a pipe cutter first though.

Sandwich - I'm probably in same category, so will use the pipecutter first to get a nice groove in it.

Cheers all

Will pop in a vice

mitre block & wedge - straight cut slot ! / hacksaw

and I wave my willy at you at an odd angle!!

does it really matter if the cut is slightly off? - think there was a thread a couple of weeks ago about the "mechanical" need to have a spacer above the stem to ensure the top stem bolt contributes so a slight angle isn't a disaster?

Hacksaw.

Step back and admire straight/almost straight/completely on the piss cut.

Attempt to file the resulting mess flat, give up after 30 seconds as it's taking too long.

Chamfer edges with a file, provides no benefit, but makes you feel better.

Fit to bike.

Replace 5mm spacer with 10mm because it's so far off being straight.

If you're unsure if you can cut straight and you're right handed, have the fork on the left. If left handed, swap the fork to the right. People tend to curve away. At least if your cut isn't straight, you can do a bit (lot) of work with the file.

The cut edge of the steerer is only used for preloading the headset bearings

It's not even used for that. Pulling force from winding on the preload bolt goes through the top cap to the spacers and/or stem, to the bearings.

The only reason you need a good straight cut is if you're looking to install a SFN by the tappy hammer on the bolt method. You'll never get it started straight with a wonky cut. Not a problem with a bung/head doctor or SFN with a guide tool though.

Again, the risk of a wonky cut is eliminated by cutting between two old stems.

callmetc - Member

I just use a hacksaw.

easy to do. would have to have mental issues to mess up such a simple task

[url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/recommend-me-a-may-my-forefathers-forgive-me-bread-slicer-thing ]http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/recommend-me-a-may-my-forefathers-forgive-me-bread-slicer-thing[/url]

Large zip tie or pipe clamp as a guide round the steerer and hacksaw to cut it..

Pipe clamp
[img] [/img]

ransos - Member

Again, the risk of a wonky cut is eliminated by cutting between two old stems

He's right you know.

Of course, if you're a complete idiot you may well end up sawing halfway through one of the stems whilst wondering why sawing through a steerer is such hard work.

Not that I've done that you understand, but as you can never be too careful I use an old stem to fix, then old spacers as the cutting guides.

It gives a much better result than a pipe cutter, largely because it doesn't flare the steerer.

WTF being able to use a hacksaw is willy-waving now?

Boasting about being able to cut straight when it's not actually that easy is willy waving yes, especially when you imply only the useless can't do it (which is what you're doing). Speaking as someone who has cut things wonky in the past. As I suspect most of us have.

In my opinion, the best methods don't rely on personal skills, they should be foolproof by design. Or as near as possible. If you use my method you don't have to worry about whether or not you're cutting straight.

Hold steerer in old stem, clamp stem in vice. Slide old spacer against stem to line-up with the cut-mark. This way you only scuff-up a 50p spacer, not the stem.

I just use a hacksaw by eye. Don't think I have ever cut a straight steerer in 20 attempts.

And although I don't mind a bit of filing I think I need to read what I have just written for next time...

I tried to cheap out with a cheap pipe cutter and it broke before finishing the cut. It also put a flare in that caused me fitting issues.

Hacksaw and tape is the way forward, additional cutting guides if desired.

I stick mine on the wall at the bottom of the garden and then use my six shooter from the hip to ping it down to size. To get off any rough edges I just rub it on my stubble.

As antigee and TINAS above - how straight do you need it? Unless its 45 degrees out the cap will be on the spacer anyway?

Does no-one else use a cutoff disk?

Zip, job done. Easier to keep straight than a hacksaw, although that's not that hard if it's sharp enough.

If you grew up with threaded forks, where you had to get it dead level, and make sure the thread started ok, then the modern stuff is a cinch.

However I agree with this

molgrips - Member
...In my opinion, the best methods don't rely on personal skills, they should be foolproof by design...

Just fitted a new fork over Easter. If I'd used a hacksaw if would have looked more like I did it with my teeth. So I used an oversized pipe cutter. A tiny amount of flaring which required 2 minutes of file work to clean up.

[img] [/img]
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^ have the same one. don't try to take too much meat out in one go. quicker and easier for most people. And I can file flat.

[b]BOLLOX![/b]

[img] https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSc1NeRbj_92O78tTwwY9hxMJvoW7TfsB-hJQfI_pMKNWhNAq9UcA [/img]

cheers all, I went and got one of these at lunchtime :

[url= https://www.evanscycles.com/topeak-threadless-saw-guide-tool-EV185478?country=GB&currency=GBP&esvt=1200-GOUKE253376&esvq=&esvadt=999999-0-37744-1&esvcrea=61233930536&esvplace=&esvd=c&esvo=EV185478-NA-NA&esvaid=50080&gclid=Cj0KEQjwz-i3BRDtn53Z5Z7t4PUBEiQA23q2AFrfZtzf-Xi8D22s_fQ7_Z43alIe-mfIXtiVFbgbBY4aAvlG8P8HAQ ]saw guide[/url]

so all sorted 🙂

I'm with trail-rat on this. Unless you're a spawny-eyed wazzock, it's perfectly possible to get a reasonably straight cut that requires minor adjustment with a file at the same time as putting on the chamfer.

The key is to measure, mark and not go at it like you're doing the 100m sprint

It's not "mega skillz" to cut straight with a saw, but, it's a skill/ability not everyone has- it's really just about hand and eye accuracy but you can't take it for granted that everyone can do it tbh.

*Holds hand up*

While not a steerer, I've measured and cut the end off a handlebar, walked around the bike and cut the 'other' end of the handlebar, only to realise I've made two cuts in the same side. Binned the bars. Not everybody should be trusted with even the most basic tools...

Calamity James - Member

While not a steerer, I've measured and cut the end off a handlebar, walked around the bike and cut the 'other' end of the handlebar, only to realise I've made two cuts in the same side

What's the opposite of willy waving? Laughing a lot at this. Could see myself doing same.

Last turkey in the shop?

Angle grinder for the win.

If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing with power tools. And as this is STW the angle grinder must be a Hilti cordless jobbie.

All true points about it being difficult to cut straight first go with no prior use of a saw ever.

"Totally straightforward, unless you're completely clueless and have never held a saw before [like everybody was when they first held a saw]"

It's certainly harder if if you've got a crappy little junior hacksaw with dull blades and a clamping mechanism that pull the blade off at an angle when you tension it up. For example.

A decent hacksaw and blades to match the job isn't a negligible about of money compared to getting a shop to do it for you, but it's a purchase that'll keep on giving. Plus there's the chance that the guy in the shop is even worse with a saw than you!

And in most cases, you're cutting off an inch and a half or more, so you can practice at half inch intervals from the end, and by the time you're cutting where you want, it'll be the 6th -8th time you've cut a steerer, so you've got a decent chance of doing a good job.

What a funny thread. [url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/steerer-shortening-pipe-cutter ]THIS[/url] is STW to a T.

and by the time you're cutting where you want, it'll be the 6th -8th time you've cut a steerer, so you've got a decent chance of [s]doing a good job[/s] realising you measured from the wrong end the first time 😀 .

you've got a decent chance of realising you measured from the wrong end the first time

Who'd do that, though? Apart from a ham fisted oaf who cant cut straight? 😀

Mark it properly/use the right saw and you'll be fine. Edit - Alu is nice and easy to cut through. Have fun.

I've always had adequate results, and only ever really marked the cut line properly on a carbon steerer (well on the masking tape I wrapped it in). A guide would probably make the job a bit easier/less stressful - obviously make sure you cut it at the correct length, and leave a bit of space for spacers to avoid pain if you ever want to swap to a different steerer which will be a different height.

Hacksaw with a guide then finish with a file.

thanks folks - used the Topeak guide and a fresh hacksaw blade, new fork fitted perfectly, all good 🙂

hacksaw for the win!

might have cut the wrong part though...it took a while longer than usual?

[img] [/img]

I use rhater's method, pipe cutter to lop the top off, then file the burrs down, takes 5 mins and ensures a nice straight cut.

my enthusiasm for filing a component that is going to have a couple of bearing races attached to it is pretty low - got to make sure all those filings are well cleaned away - same with cutting cables and filing the ends

You should really be cutting it on the bike. Maybe that's the source of all these hacksaw related ****uwittery comments.

That said, I have been known to do the same thing with a hoover strapped in proximity to the cut. Even then I managed to cut it reasonably straight though.

Esher shore, don't you just hate it when that happens..

You mean cutting [i]off[/i] Scienceofficer shirley?

I do. Whoops! Thanks.

If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing with power tools. And as this is STW the angle grinder must be a Hilti cordless jobbie.

I see this type of attitude bandied about alot.

CLEARLY the measure of a man is to be able to use hand tools, quickly cleany and accurately.

Power tools are for the weak.

+1 for jubilee clip and 12 inch hacksaw. Straight cut 1st time everytime.

joshvegas - Member
If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing with power tools. And as this is STW the angle grinder must be a Hilti cordless jobbie.
I see this type of attitude bandied about alot.

CLEARLY the measure of a man is to be able to use hand tools, quickly cleany and accurately.

Couldn't agree more, because I can. And what idiot would use an angle grinder to cut aluminium tube anyway?

And what idiot would use an angle grinder to cut aluminium tube anyway?

+1
[url= http://www.bodor.com/products/other/656.html#a ]doesn't every self respecting STWer have one of these in their man cave?[/url]

Has the OP cut the bloody thing yet? 🙂

^^^^^ Goldigger, look about 10 posts further up.....,

Done successfully on Tue evening 🙂

did someone mention angle grinders?

my favourite tool for removing cranks when the last idiot has stripped the threads after screwing the crank puller in crooked

clear the workshop, don the goggles and ear defenders! wroooom...

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