steel frame new, in...
 

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[Closed] steel frame new, internal coating to stop rust

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trying to think remember what is the best thing to place inside a steel frame to stop it rusting??


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 6:58 pm
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Ignorance, it's on the inside you can't see it if it happens.


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 7:00 pm
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Spray with ACF50 developed by the USNAF for use on their carrier jets,
used it for years on my Motorbikes and pedal bikes - No rust 🙂


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 7:01 pm
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Nothing

There's stuff like framesaver, waxoyl, boiled linseed oil, but I've never used them and none of my frames have rusted beyond a thin layer of oxide.


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 7:01 pm
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Why do people do this?

I used an inbred I painted for about 3 years, under the red film it was perfectly fine


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 7:05 pm
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I can send you some finest snake oil though, pp gift of course.


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 7:06 pm
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Spray with ACF50...

This was going to be my suggestion too - am quite pleased someone else is impressed with it too. Was suggested to me local motor factor several years ago.


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 7:19 pm
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cheers
snakeoil plenty of that bought over the years 🙄

really do I need to worry over coating and just get on and builds it up???? 😛


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 7:31 pm
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I ordered some ACF-50 yesterday after seeing the amount of rust on my seatpost. The other one that I have seen recommended is jp weigle frame saver but the warnings of not getting it on your skin scared me.


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 7:40 pm
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Drip some new engine oil through any holes in the frame then twirl the frame around to ensure an even coating over the internal surfaces.


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 7:59 pm
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I followed the instructions meticuloloosly! on a tin of [i]waxoyl[/i]local equivelant. I ditched the dropper post in favour of the QR method and my seatpost is now a nice shade of rust brown. However, I think the frame will have a longer working life than me.


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 8:03 pm
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I ride my steel fatbike on the beach lots. Constantly immersed in salt water and sand spray. I've coated my frame with framesaver - I think that's fair?


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 8:08 pm
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My 1994 Univega is still solid despite the odd dunking now and again.


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 8:22 pm
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Life is short, steel lasts long, ride be happy.


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 9:08 pm
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Framesaver is overpriced, I used a dinitrol product (can't remember the code) that's for protecting machine parts/vehicle bodywork cavities, you get a bigger can for the same money.

Why do people do this?

Because when you have 2 steel frames worth £2500 and £1600 with wall thickness of .38mm then spending a tenner on spraying a thin film of wax on the inside is worth a punt.


 
Posted : 10/12/2014 9:29 pm
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Boiled linseed oil works for me.


 
Posted : 11/12/2014 9:36 am
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Because when you have 2 steel frames worth £2500 and £1600 with wall thickness of .38mm then spending a tenner on spraying a thin film of wax on the inside is worth a punt

I'd almost think the opposite, at £2500 I'd hope that the frame had been dipped/coated before painting, whereas a pompino used for commuting in the winter I'd be more* worried about.

*relatively, I've ridden 2nd hand steel hardtails from various price points for the last 10years and never once done anything more than grease the seatpost.


 
Posted : 11/12/2014 10:01 am
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I found some engine oil in the garage for a car I don't own, so I poured a couple of capfulls into the seat tube and did the "tubeless shake" but with an entire bike.

It works well enough to prevent the seatpost from seizing in the frame, which is all you can ask, really.

BTW, it's a good idea to seal any vent holes in the tubes with bathroom sealant first if you wish to keep any oil from leaking onto the living room carpet and to avoid a lynching from the missus.


 
Posted : 11/12/2014 10:01 am
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at £2500 I'd hope that the frame had been dipped/coated before painting

i think maybe Scapin and Cyfac do this but other high end steel frame builders don't.
so for the sake of £10 and 10mins of your time (make that 12min as you will probably need to wash your hands afterwards) your choice of builder is more limited.

obviously for stovepipe taiwanese tat it doesnt really matter if it rusts as you just buy another one.


 
Posted : 11/12/2014 12:36 pm
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My untreated Pegoretti frame rusted through at the bottom of the seat stay, maybe due to the drain hole being blocked at some point (it was open when I discovered the rust) and although it was remarkably cheap to get a new stay welded in, I'd much rather not faff with it again. It's now been rustproofed by a mate who works in a train builders - they use the same stuff in the chassis.

I didn't do it before as I'd never had rust in any of my steel frames, but as mentioned above the thin walls of modern tubing are unforgiving.

Having said that, it was the only rust damage on the frame, after half a dozen winters and about 80,000km. If it was simply a matter of not being treated, there'd be rust at least in the other stay (both susceptible to tyre spray getting in under the seat clamp and then running into the stays).


 
Posted : 11/12/2014 2:02 pm

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